Portugal
Casal Comba

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    • Day 9–11

      AVEIRO

      April 9 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

      The bright sunshine and warmer temps made for a promising day on the Camino. However, things took an unexpected turn when the fine gravel turned to rough rocks and ruts; the inevitable happened - a flat tire. Fortunately, there was a spare tube replacement, and John, an experienced tire-changing expert, came to the rescue.

      Despite the setback, we continued, enjoying the ever-changing landscape interposed with quaint villages and the occasional pilgrim. While climbing a steep hill, I was halted again when the chain fell off. John continued on, too far off to hear my cry for help. In the distance on the hiking trail, I could hear pilgrims whistling to get his attention. Thankfully, he heard them and made his way back. A stick, the culprit this time.

      For the next hour, we bounced our way through a gorgeous but oddly quiet trail, except for the occasional bleating of a baby goat, and joked about things happening in threes. When we arrived at the next town, I looked down, and my phone was gone! It had popped off my Quad Lock, last location, 45 minutes ago. The chances of finding it were slim to none, but we decided it was worth the effort, especially given our protection thus far. I was less than enthusiastic to retrace our route through the rough cratered hills, but it had to be where it was lost. We asked two lone pilgrims to no avail. As I turned up the path, I heard John speaking to someone and could see one of the two women pull a phone from her sack. She found it!! The same two women who whistled a few hours earlier....our Camino angels, interceded no doubt by Our Lady of Fatima! She told us about losing her phone the year before on a Camino and recalled the dreaded feeling. She was determined to find the owner in the next alberge, but there could be no chance of finding us on our biking route. After the harrowing morning, we needed a nourishment break. We stopped at the next local Churrascaria and enjoyed a hearty lunch of meat, meat, and more meat, and reflected on the day's blessings.

      One of the best things about a Camino is getting to do it YOUR way. We decided to give the bikes and our bodies a break. Aveiro was the perfect place to do so.
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    • Day 16

      Day 13/2 Coimbra to Mealhada

      May 16, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      For my first true day on the Camino, we traveled 23.3 kilometres from Coimbra to Mealhada while climbing 219 metres. According to my companions, this was a relatively boring leg as it was mostly over flat, paved terrain. For me, it was the perfect introduction to the Camino, particularly since the bulk of the distance was done under overcast skies with temperatures in the low 20s.

      Along the route we met up with the Dutchman, Wil, as well as Scott and Judy from California. All three drifted in and out of our group over the course of the day, until we reached Mealhada. At that point, Scott and Judy planned to travel back to Coimbra via train for the night and return to Mealhada in the morning.

      At about the 12 km mark we stopped for coffee and Pastel de Nata in Sargento Mor and then powered our way to lunch at Lenis-Bar in Mealhada. For €7.50, we had soup, a main course, salad, wine, dessert and coffee, all of which were delicious. We then checked in to the Oasis hotel and I had a deep afternnon nap before going out to buy supplies for breakfast in the morning. While at the store, we were unable to resist a bottle of tawny port for €5.99, which Brenda, Ernie, Anita, Wil and I promptly polished off in an impromptu gathering in the hallway outside our rooms.

      For dinner we gorged ourselves on some delicious vegan fare at Floresto do Leitoes.

      After dinner we waddled back to our rooms and prepared ourselves for our next early morning departure.

      A great first day on the camino
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    • Day 37

      Pilgrims everywhere, and a Wipe-out

      May 9, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

      The 13th of May is the anniversary of the apparition of Maria in Fatima and pilgrims from all over Portugal are heading to Fatima. On my route yesterday and today I have met several hundred. Joyful groups who have been walking for days, partially without luggage and accompanied by vehicles, others with rucksacks. All colours, ages and ethnicities.
      WOW! What a movement, what faith!

      As I was navigating down one of these wet sandy paths later this afternoon what I feared most, happened. I WIPED OUT!
      My front wheel had slipped sideways off a rut and my bike looped sideways as I flew through the air. With bloody legs and bruises all over but thank god no further damage.
      I shook myself, only to discover that the half liter milk I had bought earlier had burst inside my bag distributing itself between my equipment and clothes.
      Wet, and covered in mud, I screamed my frustration!
      One of those moments where one asks:
      "what the FUCK am I doing here?"
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    • Day 38

      A gloomy Hostel, and rain all night

      May 10, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

      After my accident I hobbled on to arrive just before Dark in Mealhada at a hostel that more deserved the name "Den".
      I had got the last bed in a dormitory with 20 beds and a mixture of workers and pilgrims.
      In this gloomy, moist building, one small weak lamp lit the space and one tiny window supplied the air The showers were such that one didn't want to enter barefoot.
      All night long snoring filled this stuffy, moist space without air!
      What a night!
      This morning I discovered that there was also a modern part to this complex that a group of 30 Pilgrims had taken in one block.
      While their luggage was loaded into two large vans, they gathered in a large circle to pray, going three times through a whole rosary chain of Ave Maria's and prayers, a process that took nearly 45 minutes.

      The deep irony in the picture I took, was that the very representative of the technocratic future, "GOOGLE", stood right in the middle of these praying pilgrims in the form of a "Google Street view" vehicle that was busy filming the city streets of Portugal.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Casal Comba

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