Portugal
Aveiro

Here you’ll find travel reports about Aveiro. Discover travel destinations in Portugal of travelers writing a travel blog on FindPenguins.

124 travelers at this place:

  • Oct16

    Drogen, Portwein und Flamingos

    October 16 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Die Stadt „Porto“ ist durch den Fluss „Douro“ geteilt: Auf der einen Seite die Altstadt mit der Restaurantmeile und dem sehr alten Viertel „Ribeira“, auf der anderen der Stadtteil „Vila Nova de Gaia“. Der Ort, an dem die berühmten Portweinkellereien beheimat sind.

    Auf dem Weg hierher hatte ich mich verlaufen: Zunächst folgte ich dem ständigen Strom der Touristen, doch dann bog ich in eine kleine, dunkle Gasse. Schwerer Fehler: Sofort wurden mir Drogen jeder Art, Frauen und Hehlerware angeboten. Und zwar von Typen, mit denen ich nicht diskutieren möchte! Ich bin sofort geflüchtet, zurück zu dem Touristenstrom. Ganz klar: Auch die Stadt Porto hat Probleme!

    Ich saß direkt am Wasser und hatte den Blick auf die bekanntesten Kellereien: „Taylor‘s“, „Cruz“, „Dow‘s“ und, natürlich, „Graham‘s“. Hier lief Smooth-Jazz, nebenan spielten außerdem reisende Musiker und versuchen etwas zu verdienen und Pärchen gingen Hand in Hand. Und zwischendrin immer wieder Bettler, die sich den ein oder anderen Euro erhofften. Es herrschte eine friedliche, gelöste Stimmung.

    Hier gibt es doch tatsächlich ein “nut-house“. Alles was hier angeboten wird, ist irgendwie mit Nutella „angereichert“: Ciabatta, Focaccia (mit Käse+Tomate), „Churritos“ und vieles mehr... und immer Nutella dazu! Ich fasse es nicht. 🤣
    Zum Essen hatte ich ein „sucking pig“. Das ist Spanferkel mit einer derart knoblauchlastigen Soße, dass die spanische „Mojo-Soße“ dagegen wie ein Kindergeburtstag erscheint. Derart viel und scharfer Knoblauch.....lecker!! Und es war gut, dass ich heute alleine schlief. 😉

    Die Nacht war ruhig, die Stöpsel brauchte ich nicht, doch ich fragte nach: Jetzt, in der Nachsaison sei nix los, in der Hauptsaison sei jedoch der Lärm der Nachtschwärmer auch bei geschlossenen Fenstern nicht auszuhalten. Nun, ich hatte also Glück.

    Morgens ging es wieder los: Als Erstes in eine der berühmtesten Kellereien der Welt: „Taylor‘s“. Auf dem Weg dorthin sah ich eine Straßenbahn, die bestimmt 70 Jahre alt war. Habe ich seit langem nicht mehr gesehen. Sie erinnerte mich stark an die „Cable-Car“ in San Franzisco.

    Ich hatte eine tolle Führung ganz für mich alleine. „Der frühe Vogel pickt den Wurm.“ Taktisch unklug jedoch, die Portwein-Verkostung vor dem Frühstück wahrzunehmen. Ich hätte sofort wieder in Bett gehen können. Aber lecker war es! Mit Portwein werde ich mich zu Hause mal ein wenig mehr beschäftigen. Dann aber nach dem Frühstück.

    Nach einem erneuten Streifzug durch das historische Viertel gebe ich dann Gas: Ich will an den Teil der Küste Portugals, an dem auch die professionellen Wellenreiter zu finden sein sollen.
    Gefunden habe ich die Küste und die Strände, doch bin ich hier in der Nachsaison eindeutig zu spät. So genieße ich die Fahrt entlang der endlosen, einsamen Strände und stelle mir vor, hier den „Camino“ zu laufen. Großartige Vorstellung, wenn man am Wasser bleibt. Die Dörfchen und Städte im Hinterland sind hingegen uninteressant.

    Ich komme sogar an wilden Flamingos vorbei. Was machen die für Geräusche? Schnarchen die? Ich komme nicht dichter an sie ran. Meine quietschgelbe Weste irritiert sie doch deutlich.

    So gebe ich wieder Gas und gleite sanft auf Nebenstraßen durch den Nationalpark von Buçacoa, am endlosen Strand entlang, und bewundere, wie die Bäume dort gemolken werden.

    Erkenntnis des Tages:

    Deutschlands Küste ist mindestens genau so schön und die Ortschaften sind schöner. Zum Strandwandern aber muss man hierher.
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  • Feb18

    Aveiro - the Venice of Portugal

    February 18 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Note - I just noticed that I hadn’t uploaded this footprint. Whoops!

    Rick Steves’ guidebook is full of good information regarding the part of Portugal that we are now exploring - the northwest area between Porto and Lisbon. We thought that we would spend 3 or 4 nights in a few of the more interesting cities as we travel south to Lisbon. Our first stop was only 1 hour away.

    We left Porto by train and arrived in a pretty, university city called Aveiro. It will be a nice change to be in a small city, close to the ocean.

    Aveiro is situated on an estuary of a river, surrounded by marshlands that run 50 km parallel to the sea. It is called the Venice of Portugal, because of the surrounding water (canals, lagoon and the nearby Atlantic Ocean). Years ago, the city flooded regularly but now they have it under control.

    Nowadays, Aveiro is also known for its salt pans and architecture. There are about 30 buildings that are built according to the Art Nouveau style.

    We arrived in the new train station (right next door to the bus station) and beside the old train station with its blue and white Portuguese tiles depicting life in Aveiro. The tiles were made in a big ex-tile factory in Aveiro in the early 1900s.

    A short walk brought us to our apartment for 3 days. The photos below were taken over the three days we were in Aveiro and give a quick view of some of the places we saw.
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  • Feb19

    Moliceiro Ride on Aveiro's Canals

    February 19 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    “When in Aveiro, one must take the lovely Moliceiro Boat ride along the Ria!” Would you turn that ad down if you saw it? Especially if the skies were blue and it was 20C and we were in the So-called “Venice of Portugal”?

    All the roads that we walked on, followed the canals that went through Aveiro. The boats, moliceiros, that we saw on the canals were not always tourist boats. During the 19th century, they were used in seaweed harvesting. This ‘seaweed’ was also mixed with the sludge that accumulated in the bottom of the river. After being collected, it was laid down on threshing floors to dry and once dry was used as a fertilizer in the sandy soils which belonged to farmers in the area. But as seaweed was progressively replaced by chemical fertilizers, this activity declined throughout the 20th century.

    A few decades ago, the old Aveiro “Ria” shipyards were reactivated in order to bring the moliceiros back to life and to teach willing learners the old manual manufacturing techniques used to build these boats. These new boats began to be used as tourist boats. Small and colourful, painted in the bow and the stern with traditional bright coloured drawings which represent historical facts or show religious scenes, moliceiros cruise through the “Ria”, giving tourists a good overview of the city of Aveiro, old and new.

    We decided on a 45 minute tour of the four canals of the city - the Central Canal, the Pyramid Canal, the São Roque Canal and the Cojo Canal. The captain started his engine and we were off.

    The Central Canal runs through the historic centre of the city and all of the beautiful Art Nouveau houses.

    Continuing on, we arrived at the Pyramids Canal, which provides access to salt fields of Aveiro. We thought it was named the Pyramid Canal due to the way that the salt is piled up into pyramidal shapes on the shore. But no, it is because of two columns, that look like pyramids, next to the sluice that controls the change in water levels due to the tides entering the city. This system maintains the water levels and keeps the river stable and safe for navigation.

    We backtracked a bit and went down the famous “São Roque” waterway. The “São João” Bridge is pretty low and we had to go through a small tunnel. It was a little tight.

    We loved going under a very peculiar, circular, iron pedestrian loop bridge which connected the most historic part of the city to a leisure park on the other bank. People were walking their dogs, bicycling and doing exercises on outdoor equipment.

    We passed warehouses full of salt and fish. Close by, down another small canal, was the daily fish market.

    Returning to the docks where we had started out, we continued down the Cojo Canal, past the very modern Aveiro Forum, an outdoor shopping mall and went under the “Carcavelos” Bridge, also known as Valentine’s Bridge. Built in 1953, 11 years after the original bridge fell apart, it became a place where lovebirds could tie ribbons to the railings. Locks could have been used but ahead-thinking planners pushed for a lighter and more colourful way to decorate the bridge.

    At the end of this very trendy area, we came to the impressive Fonte Nova factory which made tiles for the outside of houses at the beginning of the 1900’s.

    After about 40 minutes we returned to the small pier in front of a beautiful building called the Capitancy building, dating from the 15th Century. It used to be a tidal mill and now is the head office of the municipal assembly. The structure is resting on a set of arcs that we could see as the tide was low. Earlier we had gone into it, to see a display of striking photographs taken all over the world by National Geographic professional photographers - Exodus.

    And so we ended our moliceiro ride. A pleasant boat ride on a beautiful spring-like day.
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  • Feb20

    Museum or Beach? The Beach Won.

    February 20 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Ten kilometres, or 6 miles, away from the city of Aveiro, there is a beach area called Costa Nova. It is on a sandy spit that runs in a north-south direction from the outer, southern mouth of the Aveiro lagoon. The western side is on the Atlantic Ocean and is a popular spot for surfers, while the eastern side faces the calm waters of a lagoon, making it look like a good place for kayaking, kite surfing, wind surfing and other water-based activities.

    We took a bus to the end of the line and ended up near the tourist office and in an area of colourful houses and restaurants.

    The houses are called ‘palheiros’ (haystacks) and are pretty, wooden buildings that are painted in candy stripes which create a fun, summery feeling to the area.

    Palheiros are the traditional houses built in this coastal region of Portugal. They provided shelter for groups of fishermen, as well as provided storage for the nets, machinery and animals that were used to haul the fishing boats onto the beach.

    Towards the end of the 19th century when it became fashionable to bathe in the sea, the local fishermen began to rent out their palheiros in the summer season and to paint the outside panels of these wooden houses in bright colours like the moliceiros, the boats used for harvesting seaweed in Aveiro.

    Today, the houses are mostly used as holiday homes although there are some permanent residences.

    We went into the fish market and saw at least 20 different kinds of fish, as well as shellfish, barnacles and even wiggling, black eels. Eating fresh seafood in this town can be done in the restaurant above the market as well as in numerous small restaurants on the strip.

    A ten minute walk to the other side of the sand spit took us to some grassy, sand dunes and to the wide and sandy beach. Boardwalks have been built over the dunes to ensure that people will not spoil the natural habitat. We loved walking on them and even sat on one of the many benches and enjoyed the ocean views.

    No swimmers or sunbathers but we can imagine the beach to be full of families during the hot summer months.

    After a leisurely lunch of pizza, seafood salad and sangria, we caught the next bus back to town. It was the perfect little day trip from Aveiro, on a sunny day.

    P.S. On the bus trip, we saw what looked like huge piles of snow, but When we got closer we saw that they were huge piles of sea salt.
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  • Feb19

    Tiles on Old Aveiro Houses

    February 19 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    I read this today...

    There’s a Tile Theft Epidemic in Lisbon
    by JENNY BARCHFIELD FEB 19, 2019 in CityLab online Magazine

    “With a single azulejo fetching hundreds of euros at the city’s more reputable antique stores, these tiles, sitting there out in the open, are easy pickings.”

    Chris and I have been to a lot of towns and cities in Portugal where coloured tiles are used to decorate the outside of the houses but nowhere have we seen as many as we saw this afternoon in Aveiro. Pretty sad what is happening to these tiles in Lisbon.

    Tiles, or azulejos, were common in traditional Portuguese construction because they were affordable to the general public. In Aveiro, the use of tiles also provided waterproofing and were a form of decoration on houses built in somewhat boring-looking adobe (sun-dried clay bricks). Tiles with floral motifs were very sought after in the early 1900’s and these were produced locally in the Fonte Nova Factory, which now houses the Cultural and Congress Center.

    In a matter of 5 minutes, on one street, Chris was able to take photos of 10 different patterns of tiles on the old houses, and there were so many more. Here are Chris’ ‘5 minutes of tiles’ photos.
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  • Feb20

    Ovos Moles de Aveiro

    February 20 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We were told that you can’t say you have visited Aveiro if you haven’t tried the local delicacy Ovos Moles de Aveiro. We had already been in Aveiro for two days and thought that we better hurry up to try these little delicacies. We leave tomorrow.

    So, when we had our pizza and salad lunch at the Coza Nova Bakery in Costa Nova, we also bought two small (2”) barrel-shaped Ovos to take home with us and have later in the afternoon.

    I found out that they are made from sweetened egg yokes and wrapped in a thin candy wafer and styled as a fish, shell, walnut or a barrel. Originally produced by nuns who used the egg whites to starch their habits, and who were then left with a significant amount of egg yolks, it seemed like a good idea for them to make cakes while using up the yolks. So, they are made from sugar and eggs...

    Well, we ate our Ovos at teatime and were happy that they were small. Let’s just say it’s an acquired taste and anyone with a sweet tooth is going to love them. Man, are they sweet!

    The Recipe for Ovos Moles

    Ingredients for Making the Shell:
    3.5 cups pastry flour
    1 cup cold water
    1/4 cup olive oil

    Ingredients for Making the Filling:
    8 egg yolks
    1.5 cups sugar
    1/2 cup rice flour

    Directions:
    For the Shell:
    1) Pour the ingredients in a bowl and knead them well until they reach a dough like consistency.
    2) With the help of a rolling pin, roll the dough very thin, place it in a lightly greased form and with the tip of a knife, make the shape you wish to mold the filling in. The dough should be very thin, almost transparent.
    3) Mold the dough into whichever shape you please, or if you have a specific baking mold, use that.

    For the Filling:
    1) Pour the sugar in a saucepan on the stove with a glass of water and let it boil until 245 degrees fanrenheit or the sugar has become a syrup with an even consistency.
    2) In another saucepan, dissolve the rice flour in 1/2 cup of cold water. Add the boiled sugar syrup to this mixture let it cook on low heat for 5 minutes.
    3) Turn off the heat and let it cool slightly and begin adding in the egg yolks.
    4) Keep stirring them together and let them cool for another 5 minutes on low heat in the saucepan.
    5) Pour the filling into the molded shells.
    6) Serve and enjoy!

    *If you wish to add a bit of crunch to the treats you can place them on a baking sheet in the oven at 250 degrees fahrenheit for about 3-4 minutes until they reach a crunchy shell.*
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  • Day34

    More from Aveiro

    October 7 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    The streets are quite narrow, and many of the houses are quite colourful - some are decorated with Azulejos (tiles), while others are painted or are in a state of disrepair. There is quite a bit of construction work happening around the town.

  • Day35

    Praia de Vagueira & Gafanha da Boa Hora

    August 11 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Nachdem wir Porto in vollen Zügen genossen, ließen wir uns ca. 70km weiter südlich in Praia de Vagueira bei Gafanha da Boa Hora nieder. Auf einem Campingplatz inmitten eines Pinienwaldes fanden wir ein lauschiges Plätzchen.

  • Day5

    Aveiro

    March 29 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Nach 300 km Fahrt erreichen wir heute Aveiro, das sehr verkehrsgünstig gelegen ist ;-)
    Aveiro - das Venedig Portugals - hat sehr schöne Ecken. Eine Kanalfahrt mit den urigen Gondeln ist natürlich ein Muss. Wir lassen es heute ruhig angehen - schlendern durch Gassen mit interessanten Gebäuden, finden tolle Fotomotive und shoppen ein wenig. Nach einem leckeren portugiesischen Essen und einem Gute-Nacht-Bier im Irish-Pub freuen wir uns auf unser Bett.Read more

You might also know this place by the following names:

Distrito de Aveiro, Aveiro

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