Portugal
Marina de Cascais

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    • Day 29

      Cascais

      June 22, 2016 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      The night was cool and having been in the Mediterranean for the past four weeks I had almost forgotten what the Atlantic weather was like. We began to notice the moisture and drop in temperature once we left Gibraltar. It was now time to start getting used to it again.

      We passed close to Cape Espiche, about nineteen miles to the south of Lisbon and now we were able to set a course direct to Cascais and watched its light disappear astern before it was swallowed up again by the fog.

      The marina at Cascais is about 14 miles to the west of Lisbon and the town has good train connection with Lisbon. There wasn't much to recommend the few small marinas nearer to Lisbon in the pilot book. That together with Cascais being further to the west and closer to home had sealed the deal.

      I kept Maeve company at various stages during her watch, especially the latter part as the fog had thickened and cut visibility quite bit.
      We were getting close to the Tagus River which was turning out to be quite a busy shipping lane. We could hear but not see, shipping sounding their fog horns but luckily none seemed to be near us.
      Dave then took over the watch and kept a sharp lookout as we motored parallel to, but about six miles off the coast.

      As dawn arrived the day began heating up and the fog slowly began to burn off.
      We passed many anchored bulk carriers either waiting to go upriver to Lisbon or just waiting ‘for orders’.

      Visibility had improved to about two miles with the anchored ships appearing out of the mist as we got closer and we could see the dull shapes of the ships moving slowly upriver towards Lisbon. There seemed to be a one way system in place that morning as all the shipping was heading upriver and none coming down. We listened closely to the port radio which luckily was using English so we were able to understand the shipping movements and the conversations with the pilot boats.

      Due to the amount of ships heading upriver we had to cross the channel quickly and at right angles to the shipping. As we aimed for the ships I felt like a submarine commander aiming his torpedoes during the war.
      When we got to the edge of the channel we aimed for the bows of a ship to gauge the speed and by the time we were close, that ship would have past and the ship behind it would then be crossing our bows and we would slip under its stern and be across and out of the way before the bows of the next ship arrived to turn us into two separate pieces. That was the plan and it worked!

      We then motored the last few miles into the marina and tied up to the reception pontoon at 09.30 and I headed up to reception which was manned or should I say womened by four receptionists all of whom seemed to have two or more languages.

      The place wasn’t cheap even though at this time of the season it was only about half full but I sucked it up as we were only going to be there for 2 night and the facilities were very good.

      We were allocated our berth but first I wanted to fill up with diesel before we left the reception berth. Once bitten, twice shy?
      There was a large motor cruiser filling up in front of us and there seemed to be a problem with the pumps which was delaying matters. Just when I thought he was finished he went around to the other side and stuck the nozzle into another tank! It was another hour and over 3000 litres later before the nozzle was handed over to us. Glad I wasn’t paying!

      We headed to our allocated berth and reversed in, Dave hopped off and we were soon tied up. It had been very hot while we were waiting to fill up so we immediately headed to the showers to freshen up and then met up at one of the restaurant’s to have a late breakfast.

      In the early afternoon we got the train up to Lisbon and it reminded me of being on the Cobh train, taking the same length of time to get to Lisbon as our one at home takes to get to Cork.

      We wandered around the city admiring the old trams which are still run on one of the lines as a tourist attraction while the modern ones run on the main lines.
      Also popular are colourful tuk tuk type of taxis which you could hire for a tour around the city but they also operated as ordinary taxis. These are tricycles having motorcycle style front and are colourfully painted but not as decorated as the Indian versions.

      The European Soccer Championships were on and we had great difficulty getting a coffee at the few bars we tried. Perhaps looking for service while Portugal were playing Hungary was not our best move.
      Later we wandered into one of the main squares near the river and found Carlsberg had sponsored a large screen in the centre. There were plenty of restaurants lining the edges of the square and we planted ourselves down at one of them and found the staff here actually wanted customers and we soon had some food in front of us while Dave and I half watched the match.

      Just as we were leaving we discovered that Ireland were just starting their match against Italy but as it was getting late we didn’t stay and instead got the train back to Cascais.

      As we were walking along a street through Cascais towards the marina we saw on a TV outside a restaurant and the match was still on. Just was we stopped to look, Ireland scored against Italy. We had to stay and watch the last 10 minutes and then wandered back to Eureka in a very happy mood,
      Result, Ireland 1 - Italy 0.

      We had an early night as Dave was flying out next morning and we were seeing him off while at the same time meeting Maeve's sister Norma, who was flying in to join us till Porto.

      Leg 12 - 149 mls. Total 1330 mls.
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    • Day 30

      Attempted escape from Cascais

      June 23, 2016 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Maeve and I left the marina at 06.00 with Dave to get a taxi to the train station.
      Once in Lisbon station we went downstairs to get the metro to the airport.

      We soon got to the airport, got Dave booked in and through security. I was sad to see him go as he was the perfect First Mate, always recognised what needed to be done even before I knew myself. He missed nothing and took a lot of the pressure off me during his stay.

      We then made our way to the arrivals terminal to wait for Maeve’s sister Norma who was due to arrive.
      We planted ourselves in a coffee shop and Maeve reminds me that I didn’t talk with her as I spent the time playing with my iPad checking the forecast and planning the next leg of our trip. A skipper work is never done.

      Once Norma arrived we made our way back to the marina.
      My original plan was to leave tomorrow but due to a forecast for stronger winds in our area tonight and lasting for a few day, I wanted to leave as soon as possible before the wind increased but first we had to provision and book out.

      Unfortunally by the time we got back and provisioned it was 16.30 and I could already feel the wind increasing. I was still hoping we’d be around the headland and heading north away from where it was going to be at its strongest in time. It was about 10-12 knots at the marina and a bit stronger once we were outside the breakwater. All was looking good at first and I hoisted the main with two reefs to be on the safe side once outside the harbour.

      We got to Cape Raso five miles west of Cascais where we were turning north and out of the shelter of the land, when we got the full force of the northerly wind and it went instantly from 15 to 25 knots!
      In hindsight I probably should have kept going as the wind was forecast to decrease further north. But seeing that I was the only experienced person aboard. we were all tired after the trip to and from the airport and rushing to get ready, I felt that it would be foolhardy to continue especially if the wind didn't decrease as forecast as the next harbour where we could shelter was still over seventy miles to the north.

      I told the girls that I thought we had missed our chance and I was going to head back and wait for a break in the weather. We tied up again an hour later and while it was embarrassing booking back in again, it was better than having my crew seasick or worse.

      We opened a bottle of red wine to console ourselves and later had dinner in a restaurant by the marina. It looked as if we'd have to stay put for at least the next two days.

      Leg 13ish - 17 mls. Total 1347.
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    • Day 32

      Holiday on the buses

      June 25, 2016 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Today we decided to do the open-top bus tour to Lisbon and were told by the staff of the tourist office where we could get on the bus but it involved a long walk. We discovered later that we could have got it by the tourist office itself which was much closer. I don’t know what they were thinking of as we just wanted to get the bus, not walk half way to Lisbon first.

      Once onboard we went straight upstairs which turned out to be a bad idea but it gave us great views. The wind was blowing and being high up without any shelter we felt the full force of it and were all glad that we had our jackets to keep the wind off and sunglasses for the dust that was blowing everywhere.

      The large Portuguese flag had been hanging limp this morning just to mock me into thinking I should have left was by 11.00 again flying at full stretch and even beginning to shred a bit.

      I have thought about making a dash for it at night when the wind eases but they are not many harbours available on the west coast of Portugal and if we got caught out it might mean another return to where we started from.
      The nearest harbour was about 40 miles away and the nearest marina 80 miles.
      I was still looking almost hourly at the forecasts but any easing of the winds seem to be only lasting for a few hours and with no end in sight, Maeve will probable be changing her flight to leave from Lisbon instead of Porto.

      Anyway back to the tour. The bus seemed to make two circles of Cascais before we set off towards Lisbon. Maybe we had forgotten someone?
      We eventually headed out the road towards Lisbon and often had to put our hands over our ears to hear the commentary over the wind.
      The road travelled east near the coast and we could see a few yachts out on the Tagus among the white horses. Those that were out were well reefed and were keeping close to the shore for shelter. The was one yacht further out was beating into the wind and seemed to having a hard time of it. No place to be on a passage if you could avoid it!

      We passed the famous monument to Prince Henry the navigator and also a number of coastal artillery forts overlooking the river, built to protect the approaches to Lisbon.
      There were a number of small marinas that looked like they were built in the old docks but they certainly didn’t look very touristy and all seemed full, mainly with boats of less than 30 feet. I was glad I didn’t come upriver and try to get into one. I understand that there is one or two marinas just east of Lisbon that are more suitable but I never got to see them.

      We changed buses when we got to Lisbon and had a fine tour of the city.
      They have some lovely buildings and parks and we discovered that much of the city was destroyed in an earthquake and a subsequent tsunami in 1755.
      The rebuilt city certainly had a planned feel about it.

      When the tour was over we walked around Lisbon as Norma hadn’t seen it properly yet. Again we ended up in the square with the Carlsberg Screen only this time Portugal were playing Croatia. We had a nice meal but as it was in the tourist area the prices were similar to those at home.

      We got the train back to Cascais. We’re well seasoned travellers on it now and went on a tour of both the Irish Pubs to see about watching the match tomorrow night when Ireland are playing France. This took a few drinks before we were satisfied at to where we'd be locating our posteriors tomorrow night and it was the early hours of Sunday morning before we arrived back on Eureka.
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    • Day 33

      The French march on

      June 26, 2016 in Portugal ⋅ 24 °C

      It was flat calm this morning but we were not to be fooled. I knew the forecast was planning more wind for us later.
      The Portuguese flag was hanging limp but it was badly shredded by now and wouldn’t last much longer.

      We started off the day with a leisurely breakfast followed by a similarly leisurely lunch before we headed off to the nearest Irish pub at a bit of a run mainly because we had been a bit too leisurely and the match had started.

      When we reached the pub we discovered that Ireland were 1-0 up as a result of a penalty after only four minutes.
      Our euphoria didn’t last too long and we left the pub a bit deflated following a 2-1 defeat. The French march on while we staggered back towards our dinner.

      Maeve has changed her flight from Porto to Lisbon and Norma is going to stay on a bit longer and still fly home from Porto just on a different day so some of the pressure to leave Cascais was gone.

      Paddy Meehan contacted me and is looking for a lift home from Vigo.
      He’s there doing a bit of work to his own boat which he has berthed there for the past two seasons.
      I’m not sure if he is avoiding paying Michael O’Leary of Ryanair fame a few euros or if he’s actually doing me a favour by crewing for me?
      I am required to have three experienced crew for the Biscay leg and I am grateful to him no matter the reason as he is good friend, great company and a seasoned sailor.

      It’s Maeve’s last night in Cascais so the three found a nice restaurant for dinner and then had an early night as we have an early start to the airport tomorrow.
      At least Maeve got to do one leg even if it didn't involve any sailing, hopefully Norma would get to do the leg to Porto if we can ever get out of here.
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    • Day 31

      Flags at full length

      June 24, 2016 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      When I got up this morning the winds seemed light at first and I was kicking myself for not continuing yesterday but when I turned on the wind instrument, I saw that it was gusting over 20 knots at the masthead even in the shelter of the marina.

      There was a large and I mean LARGE Portuguese flag, approximately 20 by 10 meters on a huge flagpole up by the citadel in Cascais. Due to its height it wasn’t in the shelter of the surrounding buildings and was catching the wind giving a true indicator of its strength. For much of the time this heavy flag was fully extended and later on as we were walking up by the citadel I could see the white horses off the coast and was delighted that I had made the right call.

      Maeve and Norma adopted the tanning position and we all lazed around the boat and spent some time on the nearby town beach which was also popular with the locals. They both went for a swim but seeing it was the Atlantic and having tested it with my toes, I was having nothing of it and left them to it.

      As we knew we were stuck in Cascais for a few days so we visited the supermarket and stocked up so we wouldn't go hungry but we continue to have our dinner ashore while we pretended we were on 'holidays'. Norma said it was the smallest B&B she had ever stayed in.
      I kept checking the internet for forecasts during the day but they were all telling me to stay put.

      Maeve and Norma were supposed to fly out from Porto, while Tony, Maeve & Norma’s brother in law was flying in the same airport to join me. I was almost certain Eureka wouldn’t be there!!
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    • Day 34

      An Atlantic swim!

      June 27, 2016 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      We were up about 05.30 in the cool of the morning, the best time to be dragging bags around. Got the taxi from the marina entrance and were soon on the 06.30 train to Lisbon.

      We reached the airport with time to spare and saw Maeve through the departure gates.
      I was sad to see Maeve leaving and that it hadn’t all gone to plan for her.
      She got great fun reminding me that she the only member of my crew who I hadn’t been in the right place to meet and hadn’t left her off where I was supposed to either. She may have been the first but she wouldn’t be the last!

      Tomorrow I have to make the same journey up to Lisbon. Tony arrived into Porto today to find as he expected that Eureka was not there. He booked into a local hotel and was getting the train down to Lisbon in the morning and I am going to meet him at the station. Luckily as a seasoned sailor, he knows that not everything goes to plan and had been advising me to stay put unless the weather improved. I had being keeping him updated on our lack of progress and he knew when leaving Ireland that he'd have to make his way south to Cascais.

      After seeing Maeve off, Norma and I headed back to Cascais to catch up on a bit of sleep. Later in the afternoon Norma ‘forced’ me to go for a swim in the Atlantic. My first in years and if I have anything to do with it, my last! Seriously, it wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be and was actually quite refreshing.

      Norma and I found a restaurant near the beach where we had a nice meal while taking the odd glance at the TV which was showing Iceland beating England.
      We didn’t watch it much but it was nice to see the another small country doing well. We shared a very nice bottle of wine but of course it was purely to help us sleep. The wine did its work and we both slept soundly.
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    • Day 35

      Planning the escape

      June 28, 2016 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      The wine still hadn’t wore completely off when I woke but luckily I didn't have to start as early as yesterday.
      I had a quick walk to the train station because I had left it a bit late as I was doing a bit of routine maintenance on Eureka and time had run on quicker than I expected.

      I was pleasantly surprised to see a train waiting at the platform when I arrived and thought maybe the train I had been hoping to get had been delayed but I soon discovered that it was in fact the next train as I sat for 20 minutes on it looking at my watch before anything moved.

      It turned out that Tony had got an earlier train than he had planned as he had put on his watch an hour when he arrived in Porto, forgetting that Portugal is in the same time zone as Ireland. He had already arrived at Lisbon station and had continued on the metro even before I reached Lisbon.

      The commuter station in the south of the city and Tony’s intercity in the north are joined by the metro. He was just exiting the metro when I met him and took one of his bags, the wrong one, it must have had an anchor in it! My shoulders took a day or two to become level again. We soon got back to Eureka and Norma and I showed him around and helped him get his gear stowed.

      Tony is an experienced sailor and like me had being studying the forecast since he was told we were weather-bound in Cascais. We agreed that tomorrow afternoon was the best time to depart as the winds were easing until the following morning but it looked like we’d have to motor as the wind would be from the north and while it would be strong for the first few hours, it would ease the future north we got. We decided to make a go for it and Norma who I'm sure was looking forward to a change of scenery agreed with the plan.

      This time we had the time to prepare properly. We headed uptown to the main supermarket and stocked up for the journey. We were perfectly balanced on the way back Norma with two bags and Tony and I with four, two in each hand.
      While Norma stowed the provisions away, Tony and I checked the boat and made sure we were happy that we were prepared as we could be, for the voyage ahead.

      Once all that was done we headed for a meal and a pint or two, feeling excited but at the same time, a little apprehensive.
      Back on the boat we put the heads down, making Norma search for her earplugs although Tony and myself didn’t hear a whisper!
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    Marina de Cascais

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