Portugal
Trancoso Municipality

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    • Day 8

      Pinhel to Trancoso (32 km)

      September 15, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      I walked for about the first four hours towards a black sky. Miraculously though, no rain ever fell. Every now and then there’d be some parting of the clouds and I could see a little stretch of a rainbow peeping through, it was very pretty. A friend in the United States tells me that this rain is the product of Hurricane Dennis, and that next week I will probably suffer the result of hurricane Earl. But it’s hard to complain about the rain when it is so badly needed here.

      Wikiloc tells me there were more than 700 m elevation gain. That’s not trivial. I was ready to stop walking at the end, but I didn’t feel like I was running out of gas. So I’m pretty optimistic about making it all the way!

      Today was another completely off road walk through rural areas with lots of vineyards, apple orchards, pear orchards, some cattle grazing, and some big fields of grain. It was just a perfect camino day, through a few small villages, but mostly out in the countryside.

      There was a lot of ascent for the last 10 kms. You could see the walls of the city from far away and it looked so high up there! Right before I arrived at the gates, there was a little sign pointing to a medieval anthropomorphic tomb, just hidden away. By 2:30, I was checked in to my accommodation. That gave me plenty of time to wash my clothes, shower, and then get out to see the sights. There’s a castle, good for climbing around, a nice praça with an old pillory, and a very interesting Jewish quarter. There’s a very nicely done interpretive center explaining the history of Trancoso‘s large Jewish population, at least until the Inquisition put an end to it. Pre-Inquisition, there were 500 Jews and 700 Christians in this town. Lots of houses in the Jewish quarter have some symbol etched in stone to show that they have converted to Christianity.

      Most of the restaurants here are closed for vacation, opening tomorrow of course. But there are a couple outside the walls that seem to be serving food, so that’s where I’ll go and then head to bed!
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    • Day 9

      Trancoso to Sernacelhe (28 km)

      September 16, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      I thought I would have been less tired today than yesterday. Four fewer kilometers and a couple hundred meters less of elevation gain. But I was tired when I got here. Nice room in the Casa do Castelo guesthouse recommended by my amigos Nick and Wendy.

      What a glorious walk. There were many spots going through the hills where you could make a 360° and not see a town, a house, anything. Add to that hours through pine forests (I dare you to think of a better walking surface than sandy soil covered with pine needles) and even a chestnut grove at the end. Hours of quiet and time to ponder life’s questions, big and small.

      I passed a little shrine with various wooden feet placed around the Virgen Mary. I am assuming that this is a spot with miraculous healing, but I couldn’t find any information. I am hoping that my feet got some sort of boost, even though I had no offering.

      In one small village I met a woman out for a morning walk. At least 20 years younger than me, but walking in a lot of pain. She told me it was her knees. Too many years working in the fields, and now with her husband confined to bed it’s even harder. My Portuguese was inadequate to say much, so I wished her well and then spent a while thinking about how lucky I am in so many ways.

      The last 4 or 5 kms into Sernacelhe are through a chestnut grove. My favorite tree! Most of these were on the young side but there were a few of those huge gnarled seemingly dead trunks with new branches sprouting. I usually walk through chestnuts when they are in fragrant flower but this was a nice change to see them with all the fruits. The chestnuts of this region are outstanding and highly prized I was told. And if you’ve ever been to Portugal you know that chestnuts are a hot commodity!

      Sernacelhe has a 12C Romanesque church. A librarian took me through and also opened up the church’s museum with some old graves dating between 4C BC and medieval. And some incredibly beautiful jeweled vestments from the 17th century.

      Hoping to find a restaurant open for dinner!
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    • Day 25

      Trancoso

      October 1, 2019 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Heute zuerst etwas bewölkt, aber kein Regen. Ein „wackliger“ Fels, Mittagspause in der Höhe und als Ziel Trancoso mit seiner intakten Stadtmauer.
      Hier und überall: vieles am Verfallen und halb Portugal zu verkaufen - Land und Häuser.Read more

    • Day 6

      Castle Day!

      July 24, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      We sailed a bit further upstream this morning and then disembarked again to take an excursion to the Marialva Castle. We enjoyed a lovely “picnic” on a vine covered terrace before exploring the castle grounds. So much history and you can truly see and feel how the locals lived hundreds of years ago.
      We met the boat again at Barca D’Alva where we would stay docked for 2 nights.
      Kev and I attempted to find a cache just over the border in Spain but no such luck. But it was a thrilling trek across an abandoned rail bridge and what is truly amazing is that you can just cross country borders in the EU without your passport!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Trancoso, Trancoso Municipality, Santa María de la Paz, ترانکوسو، پرتغال, ტრანკოზუ, Транкозу, 特蘭科蘇

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