Portugal
Trancoso (Santa Maria)

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    • Day 9

      Trancoso to Sernacelhe (28 km)

      September 16, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      I thought I would have been less tired today than yesterday. Four fewer kilometers and a couple hundred meters less of elevation gain. But I was tired when I got here. Nice room in the Casa do Castelo guesthouse recommended by my amigos Nick and Wendy.

      What a glorious walk. There were many spots going through the hills where you could make a 360° and not see a town, a house, anything. Add to that hours through pine forests (I dare you to think of a better walking surface than sandy soil covered with pine needles) and even a chestnut grove at the end. Hours of quiet and time to ponder life’s questions, big and small.

      I passed a little shrine with various wooden feet placed around the Virgen Mary. I am assuming that this is a spot with miraculous healing, but I couldn’t find any information. I am hoping that my feet got some sort of boost, even though I had no offering.

      In one small village I met a woman out for a morning walk. At least 20 years younger than me, but walking in a lot of pain. She told me it was her knees. Too many years working in the fields, and now with her husband confined to bed it’s even harder. My Portuguese was inadequate to say much, so I wished her well and then spent a while thinking about how lucky I am in so many ways.

      The last 4 or 5 kms into Sernacelhe are through a chestnut grove. My favorite tree! Most of these were on the young side but there were a few of those huge gnarled seemingly dead trunks with new branches sprouting. I usually walk through chestnuts when they are in fragrant flower but this was a nice change to see them with all the fruits. The chestnuts of this region are outstanding and highly prized I was told. And if you’ve ever been to Portugal you know that chestnuts are a hot commodity!

      Sernacelhe has a 12C Romanesque church. A librarian took me through and also opened up the church’s museum with some old graves dating between 4C BC and medieval. And some incredibly beautiful jeweled vestments from the 17th century.

      Hoping to find a restaurant open for dinner!
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    • Day 15

      Ait Ben Haddou, Morocco

      April 16 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

      After leaving our village in the High Atlas mountains, Mohamad surprised us with a drop in visit to his family so we got to meet his parents and his sister and his wife. I’m not including a picture of his wife because she was very shy and would only meet the women after the men had left the group.
      It was marvelous to meet his family and of course we enjoyed Moroccan mint tea with them, as well as some cookies.

      Then we drove quite a while longer through the mountains to the famous film location of Ait Ben Haddou. Many movies have been filmed in this area, including scenes from Game of Thrones.

      We walked across the bridge that separates the newer city from the old city and stopped to visit the women’s cooperative, a project started by a woman teacher to employ women from across the city to provide tea and cookies to the visitors, and therefore give them employment. Afterwards we walked up the hill to the top where the old granary had been damaged by the September 2023 earthquake. There we watched the sunset and then went back down to head over to the home of the woman who started the cooperative to have dinner made by the women in the city. It was delicious.
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    • Day 33

      Camino Torres day 9: to Pinhel

      May 4 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

      This day for some reason we had thought was going to be 15 km but I had obviously written it down wrong, it turned into about 23 or 24 km. Roel got about 10 km in and wasn’t feeling too well so he decided to have his short day and taxied to check into our hotel.

      We passed through a village that had a small market at about that time and we decided to buy a drink and snacks. The market was closed, but the proprietor opened it up for us and let us buy what we needed and then opened a closed café and told us to stay as long as we wanted to eat our snacks. he even offered to give Roel a ride into Pinhel, but by that time the taxi was already on the way. We have found that you can’t beat Portugal and Spain for helpful and friendly people!!

      Connie and I continued on and did not arrive into Pinhel until 6 PM. There were lots of ups and downs on the road but overall it wasn’t too difficult, I think we were just being a bit slow, plus Connie’s leg was bothering her.

      That evening we stopped at a bar that used to have a restaurant but found it was closed. The bar owner left his bar to drive us to a burger place that was about 800 m away since we were so tired. Another hero!!

      Tomorrow is a rest day for us. It is a 34 km stage that cannot be broken into smaller stages so we are going to Taxi all the way to Trancoso. All of us could use the break for the day anyway.
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    • Day 25

      Trancoso

      October 1, 2019 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Heute zuerst etwas bewölkt, aber kein Regen. Ein „wackliger“ Fels, Mittagspause in der Höhe und als Ziel Trancoso mit seiner intakten Stadtmauer.
      Hier und überall: vieles am Verfallen und halb Portugal zu verkaufen - Land und Häuser.Read more

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    Trancoso (Santa Maria)

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