Columbia Icefields

Icefields Parkway slices down the easterly range of Jasper's mountains, cutting through some extraordinary scenery.

Hidden, respectfully behind giant firs and spruce, Columbia Icefields Campsite required some effort to get up to its 5,394 feet; but as yesterday, the vistas drove me on and, believe it or not, it was actually a fun challenge.

I realise the name probably should have been a bit of a clue...that and the dominating frigid glaciers wedged in the highest valleys...but it still surprised me when it got rather chilly. There really wasn't any choice but to defrost by my first blazing campfire, sadly without marshmallows.

Of course, that night it was a classic time for my inflatable mattress to develop a puncture, and so every few hours I'd be woken by the aches and pains of limbs stiff from laying on gravel, and bone-chilling cold seeping up from the icy earth in the 5°C temperatures. A shivering and drowsy re-inflate, some light sleep, then repeat till sunrise. Not a good night's rest.

...

The next day was brightened by meeting Katrina from Minnesota, who cycled up to me on Day1 of her Great Divide tour... riding a very light looking bike, bikepacking-style, that I was instantly envious of, especially considering the recent gradients. She was cool, and I liked her, and despite aiming for different campgrounds there was really only one road and we were both going in the same direction, I hoped we'd meet again.Read more