Exit, pursued by a bear

May - August 2023
Biking Solo Across Canada 2023 Read more
  • 81footprints
  • 2countries
  • 99days
  • 537photos
  • 102videos
  • 11.3kkilometers
  • 4.6kkilometers
  • Day 15

    St Lawrence River X-ing

    May 16, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Monster day planned to leave Cabano and cover the 42miles of unpaved, forest trails to Rivière-Du-Loup ferry port for the midday crossing to Saint-Siméon (~1h) then 20miles down to La Malbaie to meet my next WS host, Esther, and her family!

    The trail said 42 miles but it was hills and gravel so likely to be 5h... Hence a 6am wake up call to decamp, cycle and ensure I had an hour to find the ferry, buy a ticket and embark. Painful enough but it was only later that I realised I'd crossed a time zone into Quebec and so had got up at 5am - eugh.

    Ferry was lovely, although despite sitting in the bar with several others, no staff arrived to dish drinks out. Which actually turned out to be a blessing since the north coast's remaining 20 miles were crammed full of headwinds and leg-destroying hills; truly painful.

    However it was all worth it in the end though thanks to a super-warm welcome from Esther et la famille! We had loads of laughs covered a million subjects and it was really lovely to be made to feel so welcome by everyone (despite Esther trying to send me down crazy steep hills with her sight seeing directions en route!).
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  • Day 15

    Punishing

    May 16, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    Quebec City looms on the horizon but I'd managed to get accepted by WS hosts Pierre and Janick just a short 30 miles away who Esther & David had actually seen give a presentation on bike touring; it was impressed on me that this contact was cycle touring gold dust and not to be missed... How could I decline?

    I was immediately spoilt by Pierre's amazing offer of a pick-up from Baie St Paul, saving me the last painful hill climb of the day (despite a good rest in La Malbaie my legs just weren't 100% yet), and soon we were back at their huge house buried in the hilltop forests.

    Pierre and Janick have a beyond-impressive history of global bike tours and so I set about trying to glean as much information as possible.

    It was around this point that my confidence started to creak...as we talked about routes and pored over phone maps Pierre's face started to shows signs of confusion, suprise, and coupled with a few micro-sighs and questioning hums, I could tell that my planned trails were raising eyebrows to say the least.

    I know, I know, there are usually loads of different ways to get from A to B, but when you're loosely hanging 5 months of your adventure-of-a-lifetime on something that's taken you a long time to pull together, each question was like a punch in the stomach. Not least the fact that when Pierre had attempted to cycle East to West across Canada, he'd given up due to the pounding headwinds that just crippled progress.

    If Pierre couldn't do it - a guy who spent 5 years nonstop bike touring - how did I have a hope in hell?

    What have I done?

    Why have I elevated a finale in Vancouver over the predominant West-East winds, setting myself up for an endless battle against mother nature???
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  • Day 16

    TBone to QCity

    May 17, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    P&J cooked up some sumptuous T-bone BBQd steaks, baked potatoes, mushrooms, cheese, salads, nachos, and cake. - these guys were professional calorie consumers and knew exactly what I needed!

    I guess I should apologise for the downbeat tone of my previous post... Thanks to those worries I'd spent the whole night unable to sleep, with the problems just going round and round in my head - hence waking an emotional wreck.

    It's a really unusual life being on a bike all day...I feel like my adrenaline and blood sugar levels are roller coasters on the same track going in different directions around some sort of crazy Gordian knot. One minute I'm laughing and chatting happily to myself and the next I'm crying tears whipped away by the wind.

    I should also clear up that Pierre wasn't in any way being nasty or unkind - he was in fact an incredibly useful and generous guy, not least because he solved my broken rack issue by giving me - yes gratis! - his old chromalloy rear pannier rack that should last me a lifetime.
    Hero! But I think yesterday's mental bruising was just down to the fact that sometimes the truth hurts but that it leaves you better-off, informed, and able to then work with facts to progress. Tout est bien.

    ...

    And finally....after much waffle, and battling snow and hail storms
    ..I've reached Quebec City! Hurrah!

    The day was then topped off when a cyclist approached me as I arrived in the city, we got chatting, he was also touring, and also staying with a WS host this evening. Fun fun fun. Only one thing to do then....🍻....and despite 10 declinations, a WS host came through to save the day in the form of Boromir! This lovely outgoing guy with a winning smile was already hosting a young couple but has managed to squeeze me in on the couch with the warming cuddles of his two cats and two rabbits! Hurrah - more 🍻

    First day off tomorrow - exciting day in the city!

    Ps. Janick & Pierre's blog:
    https://nomadesxnomades.com/2-nomads
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  • Day 17

    The First Lady

    May 18, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Talking of 'firsts', today I had my first real taste of poutine from - what I'm told is - the best poutinery in the city!

    For those poor uninitiated souls.... I'm talking about chips, gravy and cheese curds....all mixed up in conglomerate mess, which is where the name originates: Joual l—or Québécois slang—for a “mess.”

    How was it??? Hmmm, well, generally, as national dishes go...it was....how can I put this....a great source of calories! 😁🙃😬😶

    Sad to say goodbye to the lovely Boromir and Maudie who've made the stunning Quebec City shine even brighter through their kindness!
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  • Day 18

    Adios QC!

    May 19, 2023 in Canada
  • Day 19

    Sherbrooke Sunshine Express

    May 20, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Goodbye Camping Tropical and all your screaming kids and "adult pool" that no human would survive in (huge floating scum islands atop brown water) - but I still would go back and pay that crazy $60 just for another swim in that river and its falls...

    A last minute request/response from a WS host near Sherbrooke has come up trumps and led me to Marc's beautiful home-in-the-making complete with chickens, bee hives, great breakfasts, comfy bed and warm showers. It was a real pleasures to sit and chat about touring and Marc's grand adventures over Europe and North America (check out that map of his that I stole a picture of) - totally inspiring me to start planning my next trip!

    Mart....get those stabilisers off and get practicing... Carpathian Mountains here we come!
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  • Day 20

    Randomer and randomer

    May 21, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    I've been really enjoying Quebec's Eastern Townships (despite being told they weren't anything special), they're rather pretty with lakes, rivers and sweet streams dotted everywhere. I stopped in the attractive town of Magog for lunch but was soon turned off it due to the piped tinny music playing from each lamppost - odd, and a bit "Blackpool"... felt like I was being followed by an annoying teenager playing their crappy music from a phone.

    Exciting to journey through Parc national du Mont-Orford... beautiful...well it was before the downpour.

    I also got a little lost at some point, and, remembering past parental guidance, looked for a police man or a lady with children, as you do. Since the former was unlikely I pounced on one of the latter who was passing. We had a pleasant little chat, she enquired about my travels, and we went our separate ways.

    Since none of the WS contacts I'd messaged had replied it was looking like I was heading for a soggy forrest camp. However it being a long weekend due to Victoria Day (that random public holiday which no Canadian seems to know why they celebrate a dead British queen, and which the Quebecois (so determined to distance themselves from the English) renamed it Journée des patriotes), the campsites were full. Full, and it was of course illegal to camp anywhere else within the park

    Joy

    Soggy joy

    But then someone called to me.

    It was the same lady with child...offering me accommodation the next night in Montréal, if I'd like it!

    I've banged on about reading and heeding the signs on this blog already, so of course I jumped at the offer...which means so long as I can survive a wild camp outside of the park this evening I'm set for an upgrade and some welcome smiley faces as I roll into Montréal tomorrow! Woohoo!
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  • Day 21

    1000 milestone!

    May 22, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    I wasn't sure I'd even get this far to be honest but I'm really sur la lune after 17 days on the trails, tracks and tarmac!

    Just another 6112 miles to go!

  • Day 22

    Cosmo Montro

    May 23, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    I've left the lovely Lisanne and Jerome who've randomly looked after me since bumping into Lis in the national park. They've both done some awesome traveling, and Jerome has crossed Canada too (the right way round) so it was great to get more thoughts and tweaks about the route. They'd kindly offered me a second night (city=rest/exploration day), but I was keen to get into the centre and soak up the essence, or at least try, despite no callbacks on the WS hotline.

    According to Jerome, Montreal has terrible bike crime rates and so there was no way I was leaving the bike anywhere even slightly risky... a tricky requirement in a massive city offering mostly apartments & hotels.

    Checked into the Hostel International (with the help of a phone call from Jerome) after they'd assured him they had somewhere secure for my bike. And so it is, after 20 years since those hazy Australian dorm days, I was back again on a top bunk in a (thankfully) small 4 bed room.

    I don't know why but Montreal comes across as a big big city. Google says it's about a third is the size of London, but perhaps it's just the high-rises and huge grid layout twisting the perspective.

    Either way it's brought me back down to city life with a bump. I hadn't realised how nicely distant the thought of big cities had become in my head. Don't get me wrong, Montreal's got a great vibe and I bet it's a really fun city but it's rudely mentally wrenching me out of my zen-like travel state.

    Still, it didn't stop me immediately signing up for the pub crawl the hostel had organised that night....which turned out to be pretty hilarious - I'd forgotten how much hostel life is a mixed bag of randomers all just bursting with lovely excitable energy.

    The pub crawl disclaimer/sign-up sheet included an age column.

    The average was about 24.

    Who's the (grand)daddy?
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  • Day 24

    Escape the city

    May 25, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    It feels like it's been a whirlwind few days.... but Montreal wasn't happy at my departure, and she showed it the next day by opening the heavens on me...I knew that we had something special and that I shouldn't have just snuck out while she was sleeping but, but, but... sometimes that's just the right thing to do.

    Rock bottom mood.

    My waterproof (bastard) overshoes failed to live up to spec, as was the same with my expensive waterproof (crappy) trousers ...

    ...no one like a soggy bottom.

    Salvation came in the form of Abigail (WS host) who offered some much-appreciated floor space and saved me from the cold dank mankyness that was this morning's torrential trundle out of Montreal through crossroad and traffic light after crossroad and traffic light.

    I've only really got phone data here, via an eSIM, so SMS doesn't work and phone calls route via UK costing a fortune. Hence why Abi and I hadn't properly arranged anything and I found myself knocking on her door to no reply.... until it eventually opened to the face of a confused guy...

    Me: "Hi, is Abi home?"

    Guy with French accent: "no, she's out"

    Me: "Ermmmm, I'm Rick"

    - blank look from guy -

    Me: "She said I could stay here tonight "

    As soon as I'd said it I realised I could have phrased it better.

    Guy: "There are no spare beds"

    Hmmmm. What exactly did that mean?

    Me: "Are you Abi's partner?"

    I'm not quite thinking sensibly after a long day's soggy cycle...
    all sensible conversational lines of 'please give me a warm bed' are evading me.

    Guy: "No, I'm her housemate"

    I got the feeling from the way he looked at me that he thought I was here to replace him like some pretender to the throne. It was getting weirder and weirder. For the love of God I just want to get out of these cold, wet skanky shorts.

    He was going to work.

    He did go to work.

    I could sit on the veranda.

    I sat.

    ....

    There was a motel 4 miles away. I rang. They had space. They could accommodate my bike. It was only 2 stars but I was freezing my bum cheeks off sitting on the drive of an empty house.... why hadn't I left yet?

    A car pulled up. It took all my efforts to move my rigor mortised legs into action and collision evasion.

    Abigail!

    There follows a lovely evening chatting with really bright shiny spirited person (am I allowed to say that without sounding like an old git?), who sorted me out with a mattress and Chaga tea (think decaff mushroom moca), local intel and even some contacts for my future stops!

    Lovely.

    Geoffrey, the French housemate, returned later and was happy with the WS explanation, which was nice since I was too tired to battle for the lodger throne.

    To bed, to sleep - perchance to dream.
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