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Into Ancient History

januar - marts 2019
Exploring Egypt, Cyprus, Israel and Turkey Læs mere
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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient History
    Dag 12

    Hurghada Relaxation

    20. januar 2019, Egypten ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We left ancient Egypt and the Nile behind today. Traveling eastwards, we set our sights on the Red Sea beach resort of Hurghada where we'd be spending the next two nights at an all inclusive (but it's not quite like the all inclusives that one would find in Mexico or the Caribbean). The green fertile lands by the Nile became barren desert and rocks before waters glistened again in front of us.

    Our hotel is part of a set of properties, Empire Hotel. They have a property by the beach that we can access, but our building is otherwise a few minutes further inland. The neighborhood is really quiet, perhaps out of season as it's not so hot that visitors are flocking here. Dinner and breakfast is a buffet affair but nothing too exciting, drinks aren't even included. Nevertheless we were excited to be on the water the next day and snorkelling.    Læs mere

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient History
    Dag 13

    Red Sea Snorkelling/Beach Day

    21. januar 2019, Egypten ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    A day of doing almost nothing but relaxing and hanging out. Our bus picked us up bright and early for a drive to the marina where a boat waited to take us to Mahmya Beach on Giftun Island. The marina was in a different part of town that had more people in it as well as shops, so we wished we were closer here so we could venture out at night.

    The beach is about a 45 minute ride from the mainland, and then a smaller boat transferred us to the beach due to the shallow waters. Some of us would stay on the beach on sunrise while the rest hopped back on the boat later in the morning for snorkelling. The water was cool but not too cold, but I only stayed in for a few seconds as the lifejacket (I'm not a strong swimmer) was too big, hindering my swimming and the snorkel mask didn't fit properly. Bummer...but my tour mates who did swim out farther saw quite a few fish. From where I was, the water was definitely calmer and prettier than when I was last at the Red Sea in Aqaba in 2014.

    After lunch, my roommate and I went for a walk along the water. There were some pretty shells but there are clear signs forbidding shells and sand .to be removed. Alas, we could only take pictures. Time flew quickly and our day drew to a close before we knew it. On the boat ride back, a few of us settled down at the front of the boat. Cue Titanic moment "I'm flying, Jack!" There's a spot you can stand and get a cheesy photo taken. Yes I did and no, you'll unlikely ever see that photo =P

    More photos to come...having issues getting photos off my phone    Læs mere

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient History
    Dag 14

    Back to Cairo

    22. januar 2019, Egypten ⋅ 🌫 10 °C

    Back to the hustle and bustle of Cairo today. We had a lovely, if long 6 hr, drive along the Red Sea back to Cairo. We were lucky to have this beautiful view for much of the day before having to turn inland. Back from the barren Eastern Desert and then the chaotic streets of Cairo. Gridlock, honking, the complete opposite of our beach side bliss.

    We only had one included activity today, visiting the Khan El Kalili bazaar. 500 years and counting, this is Egypt's (?) oldest bazaar and today mostly caters to tourists. You can find all sorts of souvenirs here, but be prepared to bargain as much of it is, according to our guide "low quality or no quality". There is still some hassling, but people are friendlier and we have our Aswan and Luxor experiences to draw from. I surprisingly didn't buy anything, I've bought very little on this trip as a matter of fact, though I seem to have realized I wanted to get something once we left that city. Oops. I've clearly forgotten the see it, like it, buy it rule when travelling as it's unlikely or difficult to retrace your steps. Whatever you're looking for, chances are it's here. Glass bottles, sand art, t-shirts, statues, keychains, bookmarks, oh and jewelry of course.

    On our drive later to the hotel, we would catch glimpses of the biggest local market where the locals shop for things from clothes, shoes, and hangbags to second hand items. It was quite the spread and crowd, a scene we watched from a bridge above.

    Dinner a low key affair, we checked out a nearby shawarma place near the hotel that was recommended, got take out and dessert to take back to our room for some Netflix.    Læs mere

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient History
    Dag 15

    Hello Alexandria

    23. januar 2019, Egypten ⋅ 🌫 10 °C

    Leaving Cairo again, this time, northwards towards the Alexandria and the Mediterranean Sea. No more pyramids or ancient sites as we start hurtling through time up until the present. Named after Alexander the Great, we were looking forward to the change in pace and style. There are no tourist markets here so you get less harassed. You can even walk along the Corniche in peace.

    We only have 1 included activity today, the Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa. No pictures are allowed, but it was an interesting visit as we descended below ground. This used to be the private catacombs for a local wealthy family and was discovered (like in the Valley of the Kings) by a donkey who fell into a shaft. There are several chambers to explore and you can see art mixing Greek and Egyptian beliefs.

    Free time this afternoon after checking into our hotel. I rarely write about hotels, but the Misr Hotel is a hidden gem on the 9th and 10th floor of a building you would probably not walk into. There's a story to come later. But yes, don't judge this book by its cover. All our rooms had windows overlooking the Mediterrean Sea, and we also had a balcony that you could step out and look at the sea as well. The room was pretty nice, the only thing to note that the noise doesn't stay out though, and similar to other Egyptian cities, the traffic continues well into the night.    Læs mere

  • Rita YeeInto Ancient History
    Dag 15

    The Quest for Ice Cream

    23. januar 2019, Egypten ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Free time in Alexandria, and lots of stories to tell - eventful, so bear with me as we get through Alexandria together. We probably had too much free time in Alexandria. I would've liked to have gone to Montazah Palace (which is included with the comfort tour), but wasn't quite up to figuring out to get there on my own. One lady on our tour would manage this the next day and had quite the adventure and fun times.

    I'd read about Alexandrian ice cream and was super keen to try it. Apparently it's only made here and Greece. It's like soft serve but "stretchy", and super yummy. The best places to try it are actually out by the citadel aka Qait Bey on the far end of the Corniche. It looked far from our hotel, but in actuality was only 2.5 km. We grabbed a quick lunch of falafels first from Gad's nearby, eating by the water. One of our tourmates joined us, but wasn't too keen on walking that distance. She would decide to take a horse carriage ride, but more on that later, while my roommate and I continued on.

    Our hotel manager was quite funny when we asked about how long it would take to walk to the citadel. He said we should go right away because it was closing soon, but when we explained we were after the ice cream, he gave us a big smile and "ah ha", yes you are smart to know where the ice cream is! It's the best and we should go to Azzaz and have the vanilla flavor. His recommendation was spot on and made it a lovely afternoon before the evening drama that would later unfold.

    The employees at Azzaz were super friendly and happy to have foreign vistors, they gave us cones on top of the ice cream we'd wanted in cups. If you're in the area, stop by. I think there are 2-3 locations, we went to the went just on a corner near Cafe Azzaz which looks quiet.    Læs mere

  • Rita YeeInto Ancient History
    Dag 15

    Beware: Of Horse Carriages & Knifefights

    23. januar 2019, Egypten ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Okay, drama time. Note, all's well that ended as well as it could have, but this is one evening no leader would ever want.

    Let's start with the lady who went on the horse carriage ride. It was supposed to be an hour. We left her just before 4pm and no one had seen her. Strange and worrying as she'd inquired about being dropped off at the hotel after. I had a picture of her and the driver, but it's only a false comfort. What to do...

    Then back in our room, I get a message on Facebook from another girl on our tour. She asked if we were at the hotel, which we were. She said, good. Don't go out, there's something happening in our lobby. I didn't know what was going on and whether she meant the building lobby or the hotel lobby. I checked the hotel lobby but all was calm, so my roommate and I sat there waiting for the lady who'd gone with the carriage.

    Moments later, our tour leader hurried past us. Strange we thought, what was going on? Minutes later (and some recapping) we found out what was happening. Some locals were gathered in the lobby of the building (I did say it looked sketchy looking), arguments ensued a knife was pulled. Boy, our safety travel bubble was popped. I can't begin to imagine the scene that unfolded. But it was distressing enough for the rest of the girls to call the tour leader and ask if he could escort them up. Needless to say, they didn't go out again that night.

    Time goes by, our carriage friend still had not turned up. We made the choice to knock on the tour leader's tour to voice our concern, but he has no way to contact her. We'd find out later she didn't bring her phone either. But there was little we could do but wait. When we saw her later, about 730, you cannot imagine our relief. Apparently the carriage driver had gotten "lost" and took her around the city, even trying to get her into shops, his place, and a restaurant for dinner! On top of that, she now owed him $50 US instead of the $5 US, wow, scammer! So friends, please do not get into a carriage and if your companion is considering it, discourage them like we should have done. If you want a carriage ride, it sounds like Aswan or Luxor is the place.

    In the end, our tour leader brought down 300 Egyptian pounds to the driver who was waiting downstairs because the lady didn't have that much cash with her. A good thing, so he has to take her back to the hotel if he were to get paid. 300 Egyptian pounds is about $18 US. The guy refused at first because of the difference, citing a 6hr ride (which made no logical sense) and that he had bought her dinner and beers (a lie, she paid for dinner and he the beers). Luckily we had our fearless tour leader, who talked him down starting with the discrepancy in time. We left her before 4, it wasn't even 8pm, how could it be 6 hours?    Læs mere

  • Rita YeeInto Ancient History
    Dag 16

    More in Alexandria

    24. januar 2019, Egypten ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    A few more included activities today: The Citadel at Qait Bey for photos, The El-Mursi Abul-Abbas Mosque and of course the Library of Alexandria. Those on the lookout for the Alexandria lighthouse will be disappointed as it was damaged over several earthquakes before disappearing in 1480. Today, the Citadel of Qait Bey sits above the ruins. Our tour leader is an Egyptologist and gave us the lesson on recent Egyptian history. No more pharoahs and pyramids, but rather the invasion of the Turks and another chapter in Egyptian history. At the mosque, he explained the 5 pillars of Islam.

    Next stop, Biblioteca Alexandrina (www.bibalex.org for a fantastic virtual and literary visit). The original library is no longer than but the new modern one is a sight to behold. It's part of a giant learning complex including a planetarium and numerous displays. It is an architectural beauty designed for natural light and an airiness that there is still greatness to be learned and discovered. Our visit was every too brief even though we did get 15 minutes more.

    More free time to wander around again (probably would've been good to get out to Montazah Palace & Gardens, but it was a bit of work as no transport goes though and we were tired of bargaining for anything, including taxis). No more drama today as we veered off the Monument of the Unknown Soldier and found ourselves mixing with the locals in their markets. Shoes, clothes, purses, accessories, there are stall walls, just tables and tarps in the streets and sidewalks.

    Later on, we would get to the Roman Theater (surprisingly close to the hotel), then a city park and the train station. Our walk also took us back past the football stadium we'd seen on our first day. No tourists anywhere, all locals as we followed our feet before turning back towards the water onto a street of restaurants.

    Tonight, we simply sat on the rock wall of the Corniche, looking out at the Mediterranean. The night city came alive as locals emerged and sat with us, soaking it all in. Our time in Egypt is coming to an end.    Læs mere

  • Rita YeeInto Ancient History
    Dag 17

    El Alamein, a mark of the end

    25. januar 2019, Egypten ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Last day in Egypt, one more activity. The military museum and the cemetery at El Alamein to commemorate the soldiers who died in the war. A sombre of ending the tour. The grounds are eerily quiet but peaceful, as the sounds of birds chirping fills the air.

    It was straight back to Cairo after, and off to Cyrpus for me. A 450am flight meant leaving the hotel at 1am.    Læs mere

  • Rita YeeInto Ancient History
    Dag 18

    Egypt in Review

    26. januar 2019, Egypten ⋅ 🌫 17 °C

    What a past 2ish weeks in Egypt. It jumped out of my bucket list just a short 2 months ago. I'd always wanted to visit but the 2011 revolution put those plans on hold. I'm very glad I've been visited and seen these monuments that survived through time. Photos really don't do it justice, you just have to be here.

    This was the first time I've travelled with Intrepid. Granted, it's different than G, but the trip was fine. I'm curious to try the next level up (Original) to see how it compares. One of the reasons for going with Intrepid was the itinerary. This is the one of very tours that really takes you everywhere but the desert. I hadn't heard of Hurghada before, and it was a pleasant day by the sea. Alexandria was really the one I was hoping to have included rather than tacking a very expensive option.

    I didn't shop a lot, not that I usually do, but that's ok. I navigated the crazy traffic and shooed of hasslers. I got to taste some yummy Egyptian food and the best falafels ever. Yes, ever!!! I've eaten too many to count. We've taken the overnight train, overnighted on a felucca. We didn't need a river cruise boat. I've enjoyed all the temples and pyramids, Karnak, Abu Simbel and Luxor were the best. And of course, getting to see the pyramids and the Sphinx!

    In Cairo, I did wander on my own despite friends telling me not to. A few worrying moments, not security but if I were getting ripped off, but everything turned out fine. Mohammed Ali mosque was stunning and Al Azhar Park was simply the best. If you have qualms about this country, it's pretty safe I think. But do go in an organized group, especially if you're female. And if you're lucky like us, you might even make a few Arabic speaking friends who help with communicating with the locals.    Læs mere

  • Rita YeeInto Ancient History
    Dag 18

    Welcome to Cyprus

    26. januar 2019, Cypern ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Perhaps not as much in your face ancient history as the other countries on this trip, but Cyprus has been around for a long time. Ancient settlements dot the island, and markings in the Troodos Mountains show this island was once under the sea.

    After just over 2 fairly intense ancient sightseeing in Egypt, I've got 5 days of peace and relaxation visiting a friend from previous travels in Cyprus. Unlike other destinations, I haven't done much research at all, just enough to build a simple itinerary: Larnaca, Nicosia, and Limassol. The last being a base for Troodos, Kourion and Paphos.

    There's a direct flight from Cairo to Larnaca, but I missed the morning arrival that I wanted, so took the long way (and a very early flight) via Athens instead. My friend picked me up from the airport and our first stop was coffee at the beach. Caffe Nero is right by the water, and it's large outdoor patio is simply divine in relaxing and just chilling on a Saturday morning.

    We went to a few other sites as well including the Salt Lake and the local mosque. In the evening, we strolled around the old town and along the beach before checking on Larnaca Castle.

    Foodwise I was in for a treat. My friend and I were spending the night at her parents' place, and her mom made a lovely lunch for us of chicken, fried potatoes and salad. Her cheesecake is also simply divine. For dinner, it was off to a local restaurant with more food than we could finish, hot and cold mezzes along with mostly meat dishes covered the table faster than we could enjoy it. And dessert? A milk-custard in filo dough that I am still thinking of while writing this up in Tel Aviv =)    Læs mere

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