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RobCowell
RobCowell

RobCowell

Follow me on my adventures as I visit different places and photograph stunning locations. Read more🇬🇧United Kingdom
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  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    Looking up the canyon
    View from near the car parkPrecarious camera locationPrecarious photographer positionCanyon viewCanyon view

    Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon

    February 15, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ 🌫 1 °C

    This was certainly an interesting place and the weather really made it, not to mention the quantity of snow in and around it. We are sure it's a great place to visit in the summer but we don't think you can walk up it because the river snakes through from side to side. To view it, then, there is a path running along the right-hand side with viewpoints in several places where we stopped to take our photographs. You can see Tony in one of them and if you look into the distance you can see part of the Katla lava field.

    The path is around 1.8km and we walked to the end where it terminates with a viewing platform for the canyon and also fine views across the snowfields to the mountains beyond. We really enjoyed our time there which must have been around 3 hours. It seems a long time to take a few snaps doesn't it, but that's not all it was about. The views, the warm sunshine and the quiet and relaxing time spent there. That's what made it for us.    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    Leaving Vik towards the east
    Road conditions are still icy

    Good Weather Returns

    February 15, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We awoke this morning to what looked to be the potential for a really nice day and that's exactly what we needed because we planned to visit a canyon about an hour's drive east of Vik. As you can see, as we left the town there were bright blue skies but the road conditions were still icy in places ... very icy. But hey, we're experienced Icelandic drivers now, though hopefully those aren't the famous last words that so many know so well.

    On the way to the canyon we stopped off at a viewpoint in the Katla Geo Park. Katla is a volcano nearby which is still active, not at the moment but it will certainly be a major event when it next erupts. The lava fields in the area are huge.    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    A beach full of penguins - the people, not those rocks
    Time for a coffee - view westward from the cafe

    Reynisfjara Beach

    February 14, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ 🌙 -8 °C

    As you can see, the Penguins were there again. It really is a tourist hotspot and the car park was almost full including several coaches. The main attractions here are the sea stacks, basalt columns and the huge waves hitting the beach ... and they really are massive. As you can see from the first photo here, the sky looked ominous though to the south west there was a half-hearted attempt at sunset colours. We had a go at trying to capture images of the waves hitting the beach and the stacks but nothing spectacular hit our sensors. We were there about an hour and in that time the temperature dropped again and it got quite windy, so we gave up and went to the cafe for refreshment and a warm up. As we headed to the car to leave it started to sleet quite heavily.

    This evening the temperature is above freezing and the roads are quite slushy. It's quite windy too and there was more sleet as we returned to the guest house from the restaurant. Not the best day today, but then maybe we've been spoilt up to now.

    Tomorrow we're hoping we can get to photograph a canyon but it'll depend on whether of not we can get to it after all the snow that's fallen. We'll find out tomorrow but as we get ready to sleep there's a howling wind outside.    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    Yet another view of those stacks

    Those Stacks Again

    February 14, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ 🌙 -8 °C

    It was after 2pm before things settled down and the roads out of Vik didn't open until around 3pm, maybe later. At least we didn't have to be somewhere and we did feel for those who were stuck and had destinations to get to.

    We didn't really know what to do as most of the day was lost to the storm so we decided to stay local. When we left the guest house it was brightening up and much warmer but the roads were still showing as closed. As you can see from the photo, we headed back to the beach to see if we could improve on our photographs we'd already taken of the stacks. It was actually quite pleasant on the beach and the sun made an appearance for a while.

    Around 4pm we decided, as the roads had opened, to go to the other side of the headland to the beach where last time we were here we saw all the tourists and christened them 'penguins'.    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    Managed to wipe the snow off the window to get thisAt midday the wind is dropping and there's movement outside. Roads are still closed out of Vik

    All Roads Closed

    February 14, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    Yes, all roads are closed along the south coast of Iceland but you wouldn't want to drive in any case. Neither of us have heard winds like this before and the front of our guest house is coated with ice. Well, we assume it is because there's ice covering our windows so we can hardly see out. What we can see is ... not a lot. We can't tell if it's new snow being blown or existing snow being blasted across the landscape. It's probably both. It feels as though the whole house is shaking at times.

    At the moment it's the height if the storm and roads may not open until midday. Looks like a quiet morning ... not including the noise of a raging storm of course. Where has all that lovely sunshine gone?

    In case you're interested, the little boxes on the map show wind speeds in metres per second. At Vik that translates to 40mph gusting 80mph but to the west, where we drove yesterday, its gusting 110mph. We're sure the figures here must be higher than that because you have to hear the wind right now. Amazing.    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    This looks better than it actually was
    Looking the other way down the beach

    Vik Stacks Take 2

    February 13, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ☀️ -6 °C

    When we left Skogafoss the weather really was much better. Still no sign of the sun where we were but, annoyingly, it did look as if it might have been a sunny afternoon at Vik. We therefore decided to go back to the beach where we started and see if we could get a sunset photo of the stacks. Maybe our luck with the weather had been lost down a crevasse at Skaftafell because when we got back to Vik the clouds had moved in. Once again the phone seems to have made the best of it though we suspect that once we see our photos on the computer back home we'll end up with better than we think we've got right now.

    The next stop was the restaurant before returning to our guest house. Here we learned of a big storm arriving in the early hours and lasting through tomorrow morning. The roads will be closed so this changes what we do tomorrow, but then clearly we'll have tomorrow morning to decide what it is. The owner of our guest house has lived in Iceland for 15 years and hadn't seen this amount of snow in all that time.

    There is a lot of snow here.    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    2We both wore spikes on our boots whilst there
    A fairytale waterfall surrounded by icicles of all shapes, patterns and sizesStanding right next to the falling waterYou have to be quick to take these or you get soakedIcicles close to the fallsRob's camera covered in ice

    Skogafoss Waterfall on Ice

    February 13, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ 🌙 -1 °C

    Having finished with the stacks for the time being we decided, now the roads were reported as improved, to revisit Skogafoss as we guessed it would most likely be frozen and, after all, Tony did want to come at this time of year to photograph frozen waterfalls. So, having purchased as eaten two Mars Bars for strength and be able to work, rest and play*, we set off westwards to Skogafoss.

    This was an interesting drive. The road initially climbs fairly steeply out of Vik before winding between hills and mountains. From the start the roads were covered in snow and ice and in places only the roadside marker posts defined where the road was. Gusting wind also blew thick clouds of snow across the road so at times visibility was very poor. In other words, the driving conditions could only be described as 'tricky', as quoted by the Department of Understatement. We made it though though.

    When we arrived at Skogafoss conditions were much better and there it was, all frozen and surrounded by tourists, coaches, cars and photographers. It did look very pretty with so many icicles around it and after a while the buses left and there weren't so many people there. We spent a while there with our tripods but we're not sure we got very much for our efforts. We waited ages in the hope the sun would break through but it never did. Rob did brave it, especially for you, and went right up to the falling water to take some photos which you can see in this footprint. At times it was dry but then suddenly he got sprayed from the falls. This spray then froze to ice as you can see on his camera.    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    A foot of snow fell in the night but the Duster got us out okay. How annoying!
    It was very stormy while we were thereThe stacks are what everyone comes to seeLooking back towards Vik from the breakwater

    Time on the Beach

    February 13, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    When we got outside we discovered rather more snow had fallen that we'd thought when we looked from the window and it now seemed as if maybe we'd need to dig the car out. But no, the Duster did it yet again ... that car really does work!

    Driving down to the beach we were amazed at how much snow there was and also at the number of ploughs clearing it. Then, even though the drive to the beach was only 5 minutes or so, in that time the winds had got up and the snow was falling. We sat in the car park for a while deciding if we could face the Arctic conditions. In the end we did.

    It was a short walk to the beach in blizzard conditions, a howling wind and temperatures which felt like minus 10 but we don't really know. The wind chill probably meant it was. Okay let's play safe here and say it was minus 50 ... there, that should do it.

    We struggled to get a decent photograph in the wind but we had a go. It doesn't look too bad from the photos here does it ... how do phone cameras do so well? You can see how big the waves were and we had to wait for a lull in the wind to take a shot. Once again we stayed warm in the clothes we were wearing though it's the fingers that suffer. It's hard to control the camera in thick mittens.    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    View from our window
    1Sunrise and its snowing! The view as we eat breakfastLight constantly changing

    New Day at Vik

    February 13, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    It had started snowing as we settled down for the night and when we opened the blinds in the morning we could see the cars were covered. We went down and found breakfast and while eating we watched the early morning sun appear from behind the clouds. A quick pikky was taken for you to see and the second one only a few moments later. The photos don't show it starting to snow nor the map we were looking at on www.road.is showing how bad the road conditions were. As we drank coffee we decided it was best if we started the day photographing the stacks from the beach. Vik is known for its series of stacks at the end of the headland. We'd photographed them last time from the other side but it's this side where you can see them more clearly.

    Maybe after time on the beach the roads would be okay.    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    A view from the car
    Another view from the car!The roads started to get very icy. The headlamps are reflected in sheet iceIt's darker now and road conditions are getting badThe view of Vik from our guest house

    Travelling to Vik

    February 12, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ 🌙 -1 °C

    After leaving Skaftafell much later than we'd planned (because we enjoyed our time there) we had a 2 hour drive ahead of us. It was cloudy and dull as we left as you can see from the couple of photos taken from the car. The light slowly faded and more ice covered the roads the further we travelled. Then the wind started blowing snow across and over the road. Soon the road was covered in a layer if sheet ice ... you can see the lights of the cars reflected in it. Of course, in England everyone would be crashing about and everything would stop, but in Iceland we all just carry on.

    The wind got stronger and it started to snow and soon the visibility was very much reduced. At times only the yellow marker posts showed where the road went. All quite normal for a winter in Iceland.

    Eventually the conditions improved and we arrived at Vik, where clearly it had been snowing quite a bit. There was a lot of snow on the road and so at first we didn't spot the turning to get to the guest house where we're staying. We sorted our room and went for a meal ... the snow had stopped but as we write this it's snowing again. We wonder what tomorrow will bring.    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    Photographing the view
    2The ice in the glacier was lovely shade of blueA closer view

    Skaftafell National Park

    February 12, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We were scheduled to visit Skaftafell yesterday but had ended up at the ice cave and so decided we'd do it today and not miss out. We arrived at the visitor centre to discover it's no longer free to park which was a bit of a nuisance, though they had completely redone the visitor centre and cafe so that has to be paid for somehow. We immediately organised our gear and headed down the trail for about 1.25 miles to the end/nose/stub, or whatever, of the Skaftafell glacier tongue which nestles below Iceland's highest mountain. As we approached along the footpath we were presented with a stunning view of the glacier with its rich blue colours and a frozen lake containing a scattering of blue icebergs.

    As we arrived you can see there were clear skies and sunshine but during our time there it became cloudy and the light changed. This simply resulted in different colours in the ice making it appear even more blue than it was in the sunshine. The temperature dropped tremendously though and we both suffered from extremely cold fingers. It was definitely worth the visit and hopefully we have photographs to prove it. We were able to get quite close to the glacier though perhaps not as close as it felt. We were midgets against its size and to get right up to it meant walking on the frozen lake ... a risk not really worth taking though one person had a go, just like the people at Fjallsarlon. Are we chickens or wise?    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    That's Tony in the distance
    Volcanic debris with the glacier hugging the mountain

    First Photography Location

    February 12, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    We hadn't been driving all that long, admiring the fantastic scenery as we went, when came across a parking area. As we've said already, these are few and far between so we decided to stop and photograph the landscape there.

    We spent about an hour looking for compositions and taking a number of photographs. Time disappears when we get behind our cameras and in the morning sunshine it was a real pleasure to be there.    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    A better view of our hotel

    Fantastic Weather Again

    February 12, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Woke up to another lovely day with brilliant sunshine. We didn't expect this and if we had then maybe we should have gone to Diamond Beach for the sunrise. Mind you, we do have 4 million photos of those diamonds so maybe 1 million more would be overkill. Anyway, here's a better photo of our hotel.

    Did we say we'd recommend this? We do.    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    A short walk to the next location
    2You can see the entrance to the old cave in the backgroundBlocks of snow covered ice surrounded usAll too soon it was time to leave

    A Second Ice Cave

    February 11, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    The storm of the previous night and the promised storm for later today meant that after our tour there were no more by that company that day, so our driver and guide offered us the opportunity to visit another cave. The second cave was one which had been used for visits until it became unsuitable - the ice had become blackened with volcanic sand so no light could penetrate to show the blue and green hues. It had become known as the Black Cave. (No, not the Bat Cave!)

    To get to the cave was a short drive in the truck then a walk to the cave itself. Once again we had the whole place to ourselves. Just the four of us walking across the glacier surrounded by huge blocks of ice covered in pristine snow. It was warm, yes warm, with a beautifully deep blue sky, then we arrived at the cave. Unfortunately we were not allowed to enter as our guide felt it was unsafe. There was a huge archway of ice with a substantial crack running down its centre and in the warm afternoon sun the risk of it collapsing was deemed too great. If it fell with us beneath it we would die instantly... not being too dramatic are we?

    We stayed a while then strolled back to the truck, with stops for photography - ice blocks and icicles refracting the sunlight. Are you jealous or what!

    Tomorrow we travel westwards to Vik and the weather forecast is better than it has been for that area. At the moment though (11.15pm) there's a howling gale outside.    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    Our transport to the ice cave
    View across the glacierInside the ice cave1The colours of the caveOur guide gives you a feel for the size of the cave under the ice

    Ice Cave Visit

    February 11, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    We were able to book the ice cave visit for midday which again meant an awkward morning, not because of timings but because when we arrived at Jokulsarlon it was blooming freezing. It was -6c with a wind and this made photography less inviting. We had a go but didn't do a lot if we're truthful.

    Rob had already met our guide just after we arrived and knew we were to meet in the cafe ... much warmer than the car park of course. It was a very pleasant surprise to discover that we were the only two booked onto that visit so we had a private tour with our very own driver and guide. Our diver was Icelandic and our guide from Austria but they both spoke excellent English and made us feel so welcome. You can see the truck we traveled in to what became the second surprise ... we were the only people in the cave and our guide gave as much time as we needed for our photography. She also said how rare that was we were privileged indeed.

    It took a while for our eyes to adjust to the dim light in the cave but once they acclimatised all the shades of blues and greens became apparent. We can't recall how long we were there with our cameras, maybe 30 or 40 minutes with no-one but us. Then another group arrived just as we'd finished. Perfect.    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    High winds and the day
    Snow blows across the road as we drive back

    The Weather Changes

    February 10, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 3 °C

    It seemed too early to go back to the hotel, so a little way along the road we pulled into one of the small car parks to go and see if there were photo opportunities looking over the lagoon ... more a frozen lake as you have seen. After about half-an-hour the temperature dropped and the winds arrived. Suddenly. One minute it was calm and the next there were really strong gusts and by the time we got back to the car snow was being blown across the roads. The first photo is from that car park just before we left and the second about 10 minutes later at the turn-off for Fjallsarlon, the other glacier lake in the area.

    The drive home was interesting with gusting winds and snow being blown across the road, though we could see the advantage of Iceland's roads being raised like they are as it prevented the build-up of snow. That night the storm raged outside and we were glad to be inside. That seemed to be the way though, when storms like this arrive the roads are closed and you are not allowed to travel. And so it was.    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    Ice free for a while

    Different Every Time

    February 10, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 3 °C

    So why no photos of the ice cave?

    We left the beach and turned up at the meeting point right on time, as did a young couple from Chicago who'd travelled from Vik (our next stop) that morning and had only just made it in time due to the weather conditions further west and having persuaded the authorities to let them through the road block ... a storm was coming and route 1 was being closed to traffic.

    We waited. We chatted and waited some more but no-one turned up from the company to take us to the cave. No other passengers turned up either and now it was 15 minutes past the time we were supposed to leave. Rob then read a text message saying the trip was cancelled due to bad weather. It wasn't bad at Jokulsarlon as you can see in the photos, but it was going to be. It was going to be so bad the bridge there and the road were to be closed at 3pm.

    There was another company at the cafe who do visits to an ice cave and we discussed with them about joining one of their trips tomorrow. So we spent a little time at the lagoon before leaving to cross the bridge just before it closed. We were a bit disappointed to be honest, though we had been told our money would be refunded for the trip.    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    We never visited this beach last time
    Not so much ice on this sideStill as difficult to get an interesting photoThe waves were bigger today so it was all too easy to get wet feet without careView across to Diamond Beach on the other side of the channel

    The Other Diamond Beach

    February 10, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    The main activity of the day was scheduled to be a visit to an ice cave in the glacier. This promised to be one of the highlights of the two weeks so we had to be at the cafe at Jokulsarlon for 1pm. With the late start this meant we had to think about how to spend the morning so we decided to visit the 'other' Diamond Beach at Jokulsarlon.

    The lagoon exits to the sea via a narrow channel. In fact, this is how the ice makes its way to the sea to be swept back onto the beaches of black volcanic sand. There are beaches on both sides of the channel and it is the left one which most people visit, as did we during the 2016 trip and also yesterday when we first arrived here. Why the left hand one? Well, it is the nearest to the Jokulsarlon car park but mainly it's because most of the ice diamonds arrive there.

    The right hand beach has far less ice but it is also less crowded and we thought we'd check it out. Yep, less ice and less people but we felt the other beach was the best. We stayed a while a took some photographs but the waves were much stronger than yesterday so we had to keep grabbing our tripods and running. Then all of a sudden we needed to leave for the ice cave trip.    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    The Hotel - looks bleak doesn't it
    First Waterfall

    Another Day in South Iceland

    February 10, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    It was a slightly later start today, having been out so late. We had a pleasant breakfast, packed our gear and off we went even though our first stop was pretty much still in the hotel grounds. Tony had wanted to visit Iceland at this time of year as there's a good chance of photographing frozen waterfalls, so this was what we did. It wasn't a huge waterfall compared to those we saw last time and will see in the next part of our trip, but it was a frozen waterfall nevertheless and it was sitting there waiting to be photographed.

    The main photo of this footprint is of our hotel which, as you can see, is somewhat on the boxy side but don't be fooled ... it's warm, comfortable, has a lovely restaurant and the staff are very friendly. What more would we want. Cheaper wine perhaps!    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    Jokulsarlon is a frozen lake this time
    Rob takes the viewJust to prove we were there ... Fjallsarlon Lagoon - unbelievable isn't it. Today was amazing.

    Photographing Glacier Lagoons

    February 9, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    1

    Late Night Photography

    February 8, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Here is the reason our blog updates slipped behind. A late night at Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon.

    Having arrived in the dark and found our room, we settled in and had a lovely meal then, given how clear the skies were as we travelled to the hotel, we decided to check the aurora forecast App on Rob's phone. It looked promising so at around 10.30pm we decided to take the plunge and drive the 20 minutes to Jokulsarlon to stand in temperatures around -6c ... and wait and see. We didn't have to wait long because when we arrived and turned off the headlights there were the Northern Lights ... right there, shining in an almost cloudless sky over a lagoon of frozen ice and bergs. Stunning.

    We stayed there until around 1.30am as the lights came and went and we got to bed an hour later. What a day! We don't think we could have ever have wished for a day like this. From leaving Hofn, the photo stops, the incredible sights in perfect weather and the afternoon light at the lagoon. All that and we are gifted with the aurora at the glacier lagoon. What a rewarding day. A privilege to see what we saw and the opportunity to photograph it. Not just one kind of view but a kaleidoscope of sensual experience.

    Okay, we know that's a bit OTT but hey, what an impressive day!    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    First View of the Glacier Lagoon
    Iceberg in the Evening SunNot as many icebergs this time ... phone camera couldn't cope with the blue lightIce on Diamond BeachIt was dark when we arrived at the hotel

    First Visit to Jokulsarlon

    February 8, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    We arrived at the glacier lagoon mid to late afternoon and how different it looked from when we were here in October 2016. First of all, it wasn't raining and foggy. Second, there were far fewer icebergs with most of the lagoon frozen and this gave it a different feel altogether. Such is the nature of this place ... it's never the same, even from one hour to the next. To be honest, an hour is too long as the bergs and ice are constantly moving and the weather ever changeable.

    We parked up and spent time photographing the ice in the lagoon before going to Diamond Beach to photograph the crystal clear ice stranded on black volcanic sand. Time passed unnoticed as we tried to capture the essence of the place, the patterns formed as the waves washed over and around those diamonds of ice as the light gently faded. Not windy this time, not raining and so pleasurable. We captured some great photographs. It was dark when we arrived at our hotel.    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler
    Frozen Landscapes
    Batman Mountain on the left.View from the CarDriving Along the South Coast

    Travelling South Towards Jokulsarlon

    February 8, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ -4 °C

    The light was constantly changing, like every few seconds. From the parking area we had a lovely view to the east and to the west some mountains with dark clouds as a backdrop. The clouds towards the mountains were moving quickly and at times the sun broke through, though to the east it was relatively clear. We both tried to capture the best of the light and the images as they appeared. Tony concentrated on the mountains to the east (towards Hofn) whilst Rob gave the drone its maiden flight of the trip. We both got some photographs with some atmospheric light but soon it was time to move on. We must have spent an hour there.

    Just to explain about the caption, Batman mountain is actually Vesturhorn but locals refer to it as Batman mountain because it has three peaks. Make you own mind up as we're not convinced. Maybe we're looking at it from the wrong end.

    The journey continued including a fuel stop in Hofn with the next destination being the Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon. This drive was absolutely stunning. The last two photos in this footprint give you the idea but it was a million times better!    Read more

  • RobCowellIceland 2018Traveler

    We Begin Day 3

    February 8, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ -4 °C

    After sleeping well and having had breakfast we started the day with this view from our window. It snowed just a little in the night - just a dusting on the car. You can see the restaurant where we ate from our window.

    On the way to Hofn from Egilsstadir we'd seen some great photo compositions but nowhere to stop and take advantage of them. We decided to travel back along yesterday's route to see if we could revisit those and set 30 minutes drive time northwards as a maximum because we knew that covered the area we'd seen the day before. So, that's what we did ... we drove about 30 minutes north and turned around and came back towards Hofn.

    The light was very different and the magical potential shots we'd seen were gone. We did, however, find a small parking area off the road which looked to offer potential. You need to know that in Iceland you can't just stop and take photos wherever. Parking areas are few and far between and it's forbidden to simply stop on the side of the roads. You can't to be honest, because the roads are raised to stop snow buildup so you'd end up in a ditch.    Read more

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