Mexico 2019

December 2019 - March 2020
Our first winter in Mexico! Read more
  • 39footprints
  • 2countries
  • 85days
  • 180photos
  • 3videos
  • 10.0kkilometers
  • 6.3kkilometers
  • Day 14

    La Pitahaya Vegana

    December 26, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We were so happy when Boxing Day rolled around, not because we were hoping for any big sales (Boxing Day sales does not appear to be a Mexican tradition) but because all the restaurants were once again open.

    We had selected the hotel we're staying in because of its location in the "Roma Norte" neighbourhood which borders the "Condesa" neighbourhood. Condesa in particular is teeming with vegan restaurants and our biggest challenge will be deciding which ones to include and which ones to leave out in the 9 days we have remaining in Mexico City.

    For Boxing Day lunch, we went to "La Pitahaya Vegana", a completely vegan and gluten-free restaurant. Pitahaya is the Spanish word for dragon fruit, which may explain why all the tortillas they serve are pink like the fruit. Everything is made fresh at the restaurant, and the dishes are creative, colourful, and beautifully presented. We shared a trio of tacos, our favourite being the one stuffed with curried potatoes, but the show stopper of the meal was the Mole Mixteco, pink tortillas filled with tabascan bananas topped with rice and served on a bed of mole. Holy moly mole! The mix and mingling of all the flavours was just indescribably delicious.

    La Pitahaya Vegana is a little pricey by Mexican standards but given the quality and presentation of the food, it was worth it.
    Read more

  • Day 14

    Drunkendog

    December 26, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    I (Brenda) have always loved Mexican beer, so when we came across "Drunkendog" in our Boxing Day walking tour of  Roma Norte and Condesa, we decided to we would have to detour back for a little aperativo.

    Drunkendog is a tap room featuring 38 Mexican craft beers that come straight out of the barrel.  They don't offer any beer flights but it's possible to get small 150 ml pours so you can sample several beers to find one your really like.

    I normally like Mexican amber beers but I was curious about the fruity beers on offer so I tried a Sour Ale with Boysenberry, as well as an IPA with passion fruit, pineapple and mango.  The boysenberry ale was indeed sour but light and refreshing.  The IPA was wonderfully passion fruity on the nose but I was expecting it to be sweeter on the palate. I nonetheless had no trouble drinking it down.

    Roch had the Fauna Belgian White and a Hercules rye pale ale.  The Belgian White was light and refreshing but lacked the citrus element he likes in a white beer.  The rye pale ale was, unfortunately, kinda "meh".  Luckily, he rounded out his tasting session with the 19 Norte Caramelo, an English style brown ale that was as chocolatey as it was caramelly.  It was his favourite, and having tasted it myself, it was my favourite too.  We've decided we'll have to go back and order a full glass each next time.  At 7.6% abv, methinks someone will have to carry me home.
    Read more

  • Day 14

    Por Siempre Vegana

    December 26, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    "Por Siempre Vegana" started out as a vegan street taco stand. A taqueria outpost was later opened where you could sit and order other Mexican fare in addition to tacos. Whether eating at the taco stand or the taqueria, you can expect to wait since both locations are extremely popular.

    Roch and I ate at the taqueria for Boxing Day dinner. We arrived around 6:00 pm and waited about 30 minutes to get a table. Everywhere we've eaten so far, we've been served by friendly wait staff so the waitress at Por Siempre Vegana stood out but not in a good way. We're not sure if our waitress was incompetent or whether our order somehow got lost in the busy shuffle but half an hour later, we discovered the kitchen hadn't even started our order even though people who were seated after us were already enjoying their meals.

    Roch and I were both getting pretty annoyed but "ay caramba", the bitter taste that the bad service had put in our mouths was immediately replaced by a taste of heaven when our food finally arrived. It was the best meal we've had thus far in Mexico. I had ordered sauteed mushrooms with almond cheese served with corn tortillas and Roch had ordered a "torta" (sandwich) filled with green chorizo, almond cheese, avocado, refried beens and onions. We helped ourselves to the toppings & condiments bar that included potatoes, sauteed "nopales" (cactus), cilantro, tomatoes, limes, guacamole sauce, various salsas and more! We moaned with pleasure as we ate and we couldn't believe that all this delicious food cost us a mere $7.66 altogether!

    With food that good and prices that low, we will definitely go back, and hopefully we can report that the bad service we got was simply a glitch.
    Read more

  • Day 15

    Fat Vegan

    December 27, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Vegan does not necessarily = healthy.

    To take a break from all the tacos we've been eating, we decided to go to the "Fat Vegan", a small and relatively new burger shack offering mainly burgers and fries. Since I'm not able to eat gluten, I opted for the Caesar salad with a side of fries. The Caesar salad was excellent and the fries were even better, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, exactly as I like them.

    Roch ordered the Pancho Vegan burger, a black bean-based burger that required many napkins to eat. The burger had a distinct Mexican slant with its refried beans, avocado, caramelized onions, poblano pepper strips and almond mozzarella. Unlike the Beyond Meat burger, this patty was quite soft and required rotating the burger 180 degrees after each bite to eat the parts that had squeezed out of the bun. Like me, Roch raved about the fries, opting to dip them in a vegan chipotle mayo to give them added pizzazz.

    Eating here was a great experience. The staff were very friendly and spoke excellent English. There's limited seating, just a few stools on the inside and a couple of small tables on the outside. Lucky for us, one of the tables freed up just as our meal was ready.

    I fear if we keep eating like this, we will soon resemble the Fat Vegan's logo.
    Read more

  • Day 15

    Piñatas

    December 27, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Mexico is a country where multiple traditions have merged.  The Mexicans have adopted Christmas traditions from countries like the US but of course their version of Christmas involves a piñata.

    Usually throughout the year, piñatas can be found in the shape of burros, unicorns, cartoon characters and even Donald Trump.

    But when December rolls around, one can buy piñatas in the shape of Christmas trees, reindeers, and even Santa and Mrs. Claus, though I'm not sure if Santa would put you on the naughty or nice list if you were to whack him open with a stick.

    The most common piñata we saw was shaped like a star with seven points.  Each of the points represents one of the seven deadly sins: pride, greed, lust, envy, gluttony, wrath and sloth.  Breaking the piñata meant breaking free of these sinful temptations. As a reward, you were showered by God's grace, traditionally represented by the fruits and peanuts inside the piñata but these have been replaced by candy.

    Piñatas are broken during "posadas" which Mexicans host during the 9 days leading up to Christmas (December 16-24).  The 9 days represent the 9 months of Mary's pregnancy, as well as Mary and Joseph's quest to find shelter before the birth of Jesus. Although some families still celebrate posadas with re-enactments of this quest, for many Mexicans, posadas are simply a time to party.
    Read more

  • Day 16

    Centro Historico

    December 28, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Today we got our butts up and out of the hotel before 9:00 to take a guided walking tour of the Historical Center. We booked it through Strawberry Tours, who offer free walking tours of many major cities around the world. At the end of the tour, you tip the tour guide in accordance with the job they did. The tour started at 9:30 and covered about 3.5 kilometers, ending at noon. Brenda and I took one of their tours in Barcelona a few years ago, were very pleased with the tour and decided fo give it a go here.

    Our tour guide, Hermes, was a historian and provided a ton of interesting historical information on the city, the people and events that made it what it is, as well as his own personal opinions and feelings on many topics.

    We learned that Mexico City was founded by the Aztecs in 1325 on an island in Lake Texcoco. Starting in the 17th Century, the lake was drained and the city now rests on the lake bed's saturated clay soil. This soft base is collapsing due to the over-extraction of groundwater which supplies forty percent of the city's drinking water. Since the beginning of the 20th century the city has sunk as much as nine meters in some areas. This explains why so many of the buildings we saw have a little lean to them.

    Our first stop was at the post office which is undoubtedly the most beautiful in the world. It has polished brass cages throughout, a grand staircase leading to the second floor and a mosaic depicting the country's symbol, an eagle with a snake in it's beak, comprised entirely of postage stamps!

    He then took us through the magnificent Sanborn's department store whose floor slopes so much you almost feel as though you're walking downhill.

    The tour did not go into many buildings, but Hermes stopped outside all the key spots and
    gave us details, anecdotes and history on all of them.

    Next to the Cathedral, are the ruins of the original Aztec temples. There are also a number of indigenous shamans who will, for a donation of twenty to forty pesos (as suggested by Hermes), perform a cleansing ritual to remove the bad energy from our bodies. Brenda and I both went for it as we figured, for that price, what did we have to lose?

    After the tour we walked to VEGuerrero for lunch where I had the special Saturday buffet, Brenda had four tacos and we each tried a Victoria beer, as suggested by Hermes.

    We want to go back to Centro mid week to explore the Aztec ruins, the presidential palace and a couple of museums that were far too crowded on the weekend.

    All on all, a very educational and entertaining day.
    Read more

  • Day 16

    VEGuerrero

    December 28, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    After our walking tour of the historical centre, we were ready for lunch. However, the vegan options in the historical centre were limited and they didn't have great reviews. We decided therefore to walk the 1.7 kilometres to "VEGuerrero" which was on our eating hit list.

    VEGuerrero is not in a chi-chi neighbourhood, but rather a working class one. In fact, I think I saw a few working girls on a couple of street corners not far from the restaurant. That being said, the neighbourhood didn't feel threatening in any way, and the clientele at the restaurant was mainly locals including families with children.

    The tacos are the rave at VEGuerrero but on Saturdays they also offer a buffet for just 130 pesos ($9.25 CAD). Roch opted for the buffet but I wasn't hungry enough to do an all-you-can-eat buffet justice so I ordered a few tacos instead. The tacos really were delicious, my favourite being the soy chorizo one, all so nicely washed down with the Victoria amber beers we ordered.

    The buffet was quite impressive and included Birria, a soup usually made with pork, but t ou s version was just broth, sandwiches filled with spiced potatoes, deep fried quesadillas filled with falafel, a quinoa ceviche with avocado, a medley of veggie strips done in a vegan cream sauce, rice. beans, and the agua of the day.

    After several trips to the buffet table so he could sample everything, Roch declared "no más". We couldn't help but notice how the two women sitting at the table next to us outdid him by eating at least a serving of everything as well as ordering tacos, which we discovered were included in the buffet price. They were still eating when we left!

    It's a shame we're not in Mexico City for another Saturday because I would have liked to try the buffet, but there's always next time.
    Read more

  • Day 17

    Vegamo

    December 29, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    I woke up hungry Sunday morning and we decided to fortify ourselves with a good brunch before embarking on our Coyoacan Walking Tour.  We headed out to VegAmo and arrived shortly after they opened at 10:00 am.  Good thing we arrived when we did because the place filled up fast and there was a wait list by 11:00 am.

    VegAmo had lots of interesting dishes and many of them could be made gluten-free so that was a bonus for me. Roch and I both decided to order the Chilaquiles, described as a special Mexican dish with corn tortillas, black chocolatey almond mole, cashew cream, vegan cheese, avocado, black beans, red onions and sliced almonds.  Since we were hungry, we asked for the optional vegan chorizo as well.

    Believe me when I say that we didn't need to add the vegan chorizo.  The bowl was so substantial that we both struggled to finish it, but struggle on we did because it was too yummy to leave any behind.  The mole was spicy but not too spicy and the mingling of all the ingredients together made our tastebuds dance with delight.

    Roch had ordered a golden milk with his meal and I had ordered a "Mazunte" smoothie touted to be anti-depressing and anti-inflammatory (almond cream, cocoa, cardamom, dates, cinnamon, banana and rice milk).  My eyes were obviously bigger than my stomach because I had to ask for my smoothie to be put into a paper cup to go.  Even after walking around Coyoacan all afternoon, I still didn't feel hungry for dinner.  Our brunch was $23.65 CAD.  What a deal of a meal.
    Read more

  • Day 17

    Coyoacán

    December 29, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    After consuming a copious brunch at Vegamo, we hopped on the Metro to set off exploring the Coyoacán neighborhood, located about 7 kilometers south of us.

    Just a quick word about public transit here in Mexico City. In a nutshell, there is no better way to get around. Once you've paid your 5 peso fare, you can stay on as long as you like. Yes. That's right, 5 pesos, the equivalent of about $0.35 CDN. The only negative about the Mexico City subway is the abundance of stairs and lack of functional escalators. On the plus side, I've been hitting my daily stair climbing goals since we got here.

    This neighborhood is one of Mexico City's oldest and was once home to artist Frida Kahlo and Marxist Leon Trotsky. Columbian novelist Gabriel Garcia Marquez now calls it home.

    On the way to our first stop, we stumbled across a very modern structure that is surrounded by a fence adorned with old French movie posters. Our curiosity got the best of us so we wandered in and learned it is the Cineteta Nacional de Mexico. It celebrates movie culture, has a film archive and video library and has ten theaters where you can watch a movie for 30 to 50 pesos, depending on the day of the week. At the moment, there is a European film festival underway with films being screened in their original language with Spanish subtitles.

    We then headed to our intended first stop, the Frida Kahlo Museum, but got no further than its general vicinity as the crowds were lined up around the corner to gain entrance. She is one of Mexico's most celebrated and recognizable artists whose face can be found on everything from t-shirts to coffee cups in souvenir shops and markets everywhere. The museum is actually housed in the home where she was born and died and contains many of her works and personal objects, including her bed with a mirror above it that she used for producing her self portraits. Rumour has it that beneath the bed still lie the eyebrow tweezers she lost as a teenager.

    We then made a quick visit to the local mercado which is by far the most claustrophobia inducing building I've ever been in. The stalls are strung together with a very narrow aisle running between them. All the vendors, save those selling food, seem to be selling the same tourist trap dust collecting souvenirs, which are busting from each stall. Clothing is hung over the passageways at a height suitable to the average Mexican, not a 6'3" Canadian. The cacaphony of bright Mexican colours adorning the wares is enough to trigger epileptic seizures. Needless to say, I couldn't get out of there fast enough.

    As a respite from the crowded marketplace, we next grabbed a bench at El Jardin Centenario, the entrance to which is through a 16th century double archway. We spent a little time people watching before continuing our exploration.

    Immediately adjacent to Jardin Centenario is Plaza Hidalgo and both venues were teeming with people on this cool Sunday afternoon. There were mimes, musicians and jugglers entertaining the crowds. There were organ grinders, candy sellers and even a couple of people trying to sell dogs. If we'd have been in Canada, I fear Brenda would have brought home a tiny Yorkshire Terrier puppy. I must admit, it was awfully cute.

    We popped into the 16th century Baroque style church, but didn't take any photos as there was a mass in progress at the time.

    After that we took a long leisurely stroll down the cobblestone-lined Francisco Sosa Street, one of the oldest in the city. As we made our way back towards the Metro, we admired the many 18th century colonial houses and mansions that lined the route.

    After we got off the Metro in our Roma neighborhood, we spotted people ice skating in a nearby park! Outdoors! In the sunshine! In Mexico City! OK, the ice didn’t look to be in the best of shape, and I didn’t see any future Sidney Crosby’s, but ya gotta love the effort and the novelty this must offer the locals. Pretty cool. Sorry, bad pun.
    The more time I spend in Mexico City, the more I like it!
    Read more

  • Day 18

    The Day That Wasn’t

    December 30, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Today was just one of those days where everything goes awry. We spent the day sorting out messed up tour plans and phone plans. All I can say is, thank goodness for the comfort of food!

    We had booked a tour to see the pyramids at Teotihuacán, the most important and largest pre-Columbian city in Mexico.

    We arrived at the address given in our instructions ten minutes before the start of the tour but despite our best efforts and ten attempts to call the number provided, we were unable to locate the office. We finally, at 9:10, entered a luggage storage facility to ask for help, but the woman behind the desk spoke no English. She made a few calls and eventually a young man showed up to tell us we arrived too late to take the tour and there was no way to take it today.

    Dejected and a more than a little disappointed, we went back to our hotel and made last minute alternate plans.

    We had lunch at "Gold Taco", located in Mercado Roma which is not really a market but rather a gourmet food hall. Although the prices here are higher than at your typical taqueria, the quality of the food justifies the price.

    We ordered mushroom tamales, quesadillas, and a few tacos. Although everything was delicious, the tamales were the highlight. They were "elevated", and truly the best tamales we'd ever eaten.

    We then strolled around and made another visit to the Mercado Medellin where we picked up a few snacks and goodies lest we find ourselves feeling peckish (fat chance of that happening in this city).

    Then for dinner we went from gourmet to street food. We ate at "Gracias Madre" a popular neighborhood vegan taco stand. Roch ordered 3 different types of tacos, arrechero, chorizo rojo and salchichas a la mexicana, and I ordered the volcanoes (similar to a tostada) with a red chorizo topping. I found the red chorizo a tad salty but otherwise delicious. As we were paying the bill, we spotted a little chocolate tart in the display case. Once I learned it was gluten free, it got added to the bill and taken home with us.

    Roch asked the owner why they were called "Gracias Madre" and he was told that the name reflects the gratitude for the work they love to do, and Madre was in honour of mother Earth, who provides all the bounty for the food they serve.

    In the end, we re-booked our Teotihuacán tour for my birthday on January 2 and managed to cross a couple of eateries off of our to do list. Not a total loss.

    There's always a silver lining.
    Read more