Vagabonding

agosto 2022 - giugno 2025
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Attorno al mondo, Bicicletta, Amicizia, Natura, Fotografia, Viaggio da solo, Animali selvatici
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  • 188Mi piace
  • Confused negotiation with the police

    18 giugno 2024, Turchia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    It's hot again today, just like always. 🤷‍♂️Wir get up early and do a lot of kicking and sweating - same old story. The body has got used to it and at some point it's no longer uncomfortable, you have other things to worry about 😂.

    In the late afternoon, we look for a place to sleep and roll up to the town mosque. Flo and Julie (🇫🇷) have camped here on the lawn of the mosque and we would also like to spend the night on consecrated ground.
    An elderly gentleman greets us and shows us the meadow behind the mosque. Ideal. We sit with him, chat for a while and wait for the imam to make a decision.

    A man in a shirt and waistcoat arrives. We have no idea how imams dress here, but this could be him.
    He talks to our companion and then leaves.
    Our companion sits there and stares into the distance. Finally, I ask about the outcome of the conversation.
    He has no idea either and tells us to contact the police. 🤷‍♂️

    We trudge off to a branch of the police. Two passers-by are briefly asked for directions. They stop an expensive car and point out the driver. He nods and will probably take us there.
    Two kilometres further on, he drops us off in front of a well-secured base.

    There they suggest a campsite 7 kilometres away and in the opposite direction. Not impossible, but we already have an 80km stage tomorrow. 😬
    I remember that someone once recommended a 'really nice' campsite in a nature park. It was already dark and the campsite in question was 25 km away and 300 metres above me 😱. But it was really beautiful. Drivers estimate these distances differently. The well-known rule 'objects (in the mirror) are closer than they appear' doesn't apply when cycling 😄 .

    We bring up the municipal mosque; they would have referred us to the police.
    We are at a loss. Everyone is lost in thought. A policeman suggests we could spend the night behind the mosque (Yes! Please!🙏). There is disagreement.
    It's quiet, everyone is thinking.
    One of the policemen brings up the idea of the mosque again.
    They say 'yes, maybe we can do that'.
    Meanwhile, Bruno is told to phone a friend of a policeman and explain the situation again. This has happened to us before, the Turks seem to have relatives and friends in every region (no wonder with this openness and hospitality!)

    We are one step closer to a solution. We are told to get our bikes and then a solution can be found.
    I ask to clarify the situation: 'and then we take the bikes to the mosque?
    They reply: 'No, the mosque is closed.
    I am at a loss. I don't understand the situation. 😄

    A policeman calls an English-speaking friend and hands me the phone. They want to help us and ask what they can do.
    I explain the situation and that I think we can come to the police with the bikes.
    He explains this to the policeman.
    One of the policemen asks me:
    'What are you doing now?
    I understand the situation even less. 🤯
    We've just found a solution, haven't we? 🤣
    I reply that we'll get the bikes and come here.
    They confirm: get the bikes.
    Well, at least we've agreed on that. 🤞

    We get the bikes. A new face greets us at the police station and suggests the campsite again. By now I'm dreading the fact that all the policemen have changed shifts and we've lost the little negotiating progress we've made 🤣 and are experiencing the same situation as on Groundhog Day all over again. 🙄

    Fortunately, a familiar face comes out of the building. They briefly explain the situation and obtain authorisation for us to stay overnight.
    Then everything happens quickly: we are led behind the old police station and invited in for tea to celebrate the successful conclusion of the negotiations.
    Instead of sleeping on consecrated ground, we are now well protected behind the police station.
    Leggi altro

  • Black Canyon to Kemaliye

    14 giugno 2024, Turchia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    We are following in the footsteps of Flo, Julie (2 🇫🇷) and Amelie 🇩🇪 - a group of cyclists who cycled through here months ago. They met in Turkey and spent a few weeks together before going their separate ways again.
    Bruno has been very fascinated and inspired by J+F and so we find ourselves on the roads that the trio took to cycle along the Euphrates.

    We are the only ones to get off in Çaltı. There is no raised platform but we are helped with our luggage. The train departs and moves the cabbage on the tracks one last time, proving that this station is not one of the busiest in Turkey.
    A friendly man comes to us from the station shelter and tells us that we shouldn't drink the water from the fountain. Instead, he offers us his drinking water and, fresh and soaking wet, we set off on the dusty track.

    The route first takes us 350 metres up the mountain via steep hairpin bends, where we work up quite a sweat - at around 30 degrees. At the top, we find a mountain of gold and other precious metals next to the road. (The lab confirmation is still pending, but we took samples with us to be on the safe side).
    (Dad, if you're reading this: I'll ask at the border if export is allowed! 😀)

    Then it's all downhill and after a fast descent we find ourselves at the entrance to the Karanlık Canyon and the tunnel, which has been connecting Kemaliye with the environment since 2002 and has become a highlight for tourists.
    We roll (slowly) through the tunnels for several minutes at a time and need a few hours to cover the short distance, as there are plenty of views and the air here is very pleasantly cool compared to the air soup out there.

    Kemaliye is touristy but stylish. Everything is nicely decorated with standardised wooden signs for the shops, flower boxes are dotted here and there and Atatürk stands on the small central square overlooking the idyllic village.

    Bayram, the highest Islamic festival, begins tomorrow. It lasts four days and commemorates Abraham, who was supposed to sacrifice his son Ishmael to prove his faith. Ishmael was spared, but a goat was sacrificed.
    Shops will usually remain closed and only reopen after a few days. One side of us is happy about the good supply and that we don't have to store food for several days - on the other hand, the situation shows us that even for the highest, four-day festival, only a short business break is possible. The shops have to keep running.

    Our family-run campsite is situated on a slope overlooking the small town and both banks of the river. The evening we arrive, a young woman is celebrating her birthday and we join in the celebrations with cake 🍰 and traditional dancing.

    The local restaurant serves good food every evening and the waitress is so quick to clear the table that I call 'stop' the first time to keep my half-full ayran.
    From then on, she always peeks over my shoulder with a smile to see if the cup is empty 🤭
    Leggi altro

  • 🚂 to Divrigi

    14 giugno 2024, Turchia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Bruno and I take the daily 🚂 East Express from track 9 3/4 in Kayseri and cover the distance of 260 kilometres comfortably within 8 hours.
    It could be a bit quicker, but in the end we're glad that we're travelling more comfortably than on our bikes.

    The journey takes us along a small river and we get a foretaste of the scenery to come. Behind the window panes we see bare hills rolling by. Today, for once, we are sitting in an air-conditioned railway carriage and are not (yet) struggling in the heat.

    An animal market is taking place in the city due to the upcoming festival of sacrifice and we have a few amusing conversations with the traders.
    On recommendation, we visit the large mosque in the town with its ornate door frame and learn a little about the significance of the place for the Seljuks.

    Tomorrow we will continue our journey, this time only one stop, to explore a special highlight of this area.
    Leggi altro

  • Seljuk medicine

    12 giugno 2024, Turchia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    I roll down the mountain at a monkey's pace and convert the potential energy that I painstakingly built up yesterday back into kinetic energy in no time at all.

    The cool mountain air is replaced by the warm city air. Despite the many parks in the city, there are still plenty of tarmac or stone surfaces that store and reflect the heat very well.

    I meet Bruno again (we know each other from Konya) and we visit the Seljuk Museum. I particularly remember the great achievements in the field of medicine at that time. Even back then, illnesses were understood holistically as a combination of physical, mental and environmental aspects and treated accordingly. This is how the first hospitals (also called "House of Health" / "House of Healing" at the time) came into being. Mental illnesses were also treated back then - not by exorcising devils or other comparably fruitless methods as in Europe, but by means of music and aromatherapy, for example.

    The sounds of water or instruments were used, for example, to calm or create feelings. Concerts were regularly held in the houses to improve the healing process.
    Very interesting approaches for today's medicine in my opinion ;)
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  • Animal Zoo

    12 giugno 2024, Turchia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    I open my eyes in the morning - and the first thing I think of is the mountain that is out of my reach 😕

    A noise attracts my attention A pack of squirrels is marauding and plundering through the prairie, not even stopping at my property.Leggi altro

  • A dream is shattered

    11 giugno 2024, Turchia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Ever since I saw the immensely high mountain peaking the anatolian plain, I've been super excited. I want to get up there!
    I spend the day preparing:
    Gathering information, checking the route, planning and buying food.

    It's 3900 meters high.🏔️ 🤩
    The air gets thin from 3000 m upwards, so I might as well get a few hours of altitude training in. The route is strenuous but not technically demanding and I'm in very good shape.
    This is going to be an adventure!

    At the end of the day, I get into position and ride up another 1000 meters - to 2200 m above sea level. At the beginning I'm still having fun and ask the mountain if it has any more up its sleeve - a 9% gradient won't stop me!
    An hour and a half later, I concede a draw to the mountain and use my breath for pedaling rather than for complaining 😄
    After two and a half hours (exactly my estimate!) I arrive at the top pretty exhausted and see how the sunset bathes the whole plateau in an orange-red color.

    I roll up to the person I want to entrust my bike to the next day when I climb the mountain.
    I'm sitting with Mehmet in his container and we talk about our families, his work and our lives. Two dogs scurry up and down in front of his container and get an idea of my 17,500 km adventurous ride while they sniff at my bags. 🐕🐕

    The evening before the ascent, I report to the police, who guard the mountain and register the climbers for safety's sake - and don't get clearance. 😔
    The latest regulations say you have to apply for a permit. This would be possible in Kayseri (27km away and 1200m lower) from tomorrow. And I would need a guide anyway. 🥺

    The end of the story for tonight: I made a detour that lasted several days and had to carry food for a whole company up the mountain today. 😩
    The brief dream of the brilliant view and the experience at this altitude with a mega view of the Anatolian plain has been shattered.
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  • The day of laughing Childs

    10 giugno 2024, Turchia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I start a little earlier today to escape the heat of the day. In this part of Turkey it's now usually over 27°C and even if the heat isn't so bad due to the wind, it's more fun to get a bit of fresh air.

    My route takes me through a small canyon. ⛰️⛰️
    While the landscape above is rather steppe-like, a river has created a small and peaceful paradise. A great spot for camping!

    I did not have a flat tire for weeks and changing it only takes 20 minutes. The nearby water sprinklers regularly spray me with water, which makes the heat more pleasant.

    During my lunch break, a couple of kids come up to me and we have a really nice chat that ends in test rides on my bike. One of the boys even does better than me on my first few meters. Maybe I've convinced the next offspring to cycle today 🤭

    The children leave and are replaced by a group of young people. They also want to know a lot and then pose for a photo. They want me to do a wolf salute. Knowing what it means, I leave out the greeting.
    They want to invite me for a cup of tea and I accept. Then they take me to the party headquarters of the MHP, an extreme right-wing and arch-conservative party. 😓
    Portraits of Atatürk and the party's founders hang on the walls. Behind the large desk sits a man my age, perhaps the local chairman. Half the kids are around 13, the rest around 17.
    We have Çay and baklava. I can easily avoid the questions that revolve around politics. I don't think there's any point in having a discussion here, the opinions are too different for that.
    I think it's a shame that I'm once again being presented with the typical (memorized?) opinion that there are only terrorists in eastern Turkey. What a nonsense.
    The meeting leaves me perplexed and somewhat hopeless because I can already see the next generation of children growing up with hate images in their heads.
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  • Derinkuyu

    8 giugno 2024, Turchia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Historians and archaeologists disagree on whether the underground city of Derinkuyu was dug to protect it from attackers or from adverse climatic conditions. What is certain is that I definitely visit it today to protect myself from the climatic conditions. 😁

    Whatever the cause, the city is impressive. The caves were only discovered by chance in 1965 and it is estimated that only a fraction of them have been uncovered.
    It is uncertain how many people lived there and estimates vary widely between 3000-50000 inhabitants. What is certain, however, is that it was possible to live down there for some time.

    The small, shoulder-width tunnels lead deep underground.
    Below, there is everything a city needs: Storage rooms, stables, living and communal areas, churches and more.
    The city was closed off by large stone gates.

    Dozens of these cities were built in the region and it is assumed that not all of them have been found yet.
    Leggi altro

  • Cappadocia!!

    5 giugno 2024, Turchia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Arrival in the highlight of Turkey: Capadocia!
    The heat continues and has forced me to get up earlier. I get used to it and from 8 o'clock it's as warm in the tent as in an oven anyway, so I get out of my sleeping bag and prefer to spend the time outside where the wind is blowing.

    Shortly after my supermarket shop, a young woman jumps out of the car and speaks to me. That's how I meet the hitchhiking duo Robin and Natalia, with whom I end up on the edge of a cliff right next to the balloons.
    I am woken up at the crack of dawn by loud fans. The balloons are being filled with air. Shuttle buses roll up and disgorge their human cargo at the launch site. The balloonists giggle and cackle nervously. One by one, they climb aboard and take off.
    A few wedding couples remain behind, not wanting to miss out on the scenery, a few ladies in red dresses (I count about 7) who are perhaps still searching, and of course us travellers.
    I hike through the gorges for three days - three days with different and amazing rock formations in front of me.
    As we prefer to get a good night's sleep, we retire to rock caves in the evening, which are very well air-conditioned.

    The area on which these highlights are concentrated is smaller than expected: there are only a few small tourist villages and the gorges in between that attract people. Everything is super easy to get to by bike - that gives it plus points in my rating!

    I'll let the pictures speak for themselves, which I'm sure everyone has seen a thousand times - just without the bearded catweasel ;)
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  • Çok sicak! / Heat 🥵

    3 giugno 2024, Turchia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    The proverbial weatherman is lying boiled on the ground today. It's 31 degrees, the sun is beating down and drawing hard shadows on the ground. There are 45 kilometres behind me and the mountains ahead.

    I find a particularly playful pack of dogs and indulge my play instinct once again. Marvellous! 😁
    I spend the rest of the day simmering away in the shade and warming up inside with one çay after another. Friendly villagers sit down with me, we talk all day and exchange ideas. I've almost got the hang of the translator, but unfortunately it's still a bit complicated.

    We have a few beers in the evening, but unfortunately I turn down two invitations to stay - the migratory bird has to move on...
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