Cambodia

February 2018 - April 2024
An open-ended adventure by Shahnavaz Read more
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  • Day 1

    To Cambodia!

    February 27, 2018 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    It's time to move on to our 3rd country in approx 6 weeks. The Laos- Cambodia border is also known as Scambodia. Throughout our time in Laos we have heard absolute horror stories of how people have been scammed at the border or had to wait for hours if they didn't just pay up the scam etc. Let's just say we have not been looking forward to today! We booked our bus from the Cambodian border to take us to Siem Reap so all we need to do is take a boat to the main island and then tuk tuk to the border for 10:30am for the bus pick up... Simple. We decided to leave at the crack of dawn to give plenty of time incase of any scams or holdups.

    Firstly we jumped on the boat off Don Khon to go to Bangkok Nakasang on the mainland. Destination 1 Complete.

    We arrived on the mainland with sooo many tuk tuks offering a lift to the border for 20,000 Kip, approx £20. Outrageous, so we confidently declined. We were told we should pay between 50-70,000 kip. We hadn't had breakfast and had no snacks for our long journey so grabbed some fresh steamed dumplings, a doughnut, fruit and snacks. We walked to the bus station to find it closed. A tuk tuk driver came and told us the bus and tuk tuks no longer go to the border as there is now a fine of $20 per traveller on the tuk tuk which has been enforced by the mafia Laos police in the last couple of days. For the first time we actually felt sorry for the tuk tuk drivers as they are now completely out of business! In the end he offered to take us 4km from the border and then said we can walk the rest of the way. It wasn't the ideal situation but suited us fine. We actually felt happy to have found an honest tuk tuk!! So first he took us to the money exchange and then off we go in our tiny lawnmower tuk tuk.

    All was going so well for the first 15 mins, super happy we hadn't been scammed yet and on our way to check point two. However, all of a sudden he stopped the tuk tuk and said he can't go any further and would only take us to the waterfall which was about 11km from the border, approx 3 hour walk, for $20 each... We were outraged and stood our ground. I think he realised we were not going to budge, literally, so he happily carried on to our agreed destination without any further hassle. Although he tried that initial scam we were happy with his general honesty and he was very apologetic about not being able to take us to the border, he genuinely seemed quite scared of the police to be honest. So Destination 2,the border, not quite complete.

    We then began our 50 min walk. To be honest it wasn't that bad, it was still coolish as it was only 8:30am and as we are pretty quick we got there in 40 mins. Destination 2 Complete!

    Next stop, making our way through the border scam free... Now this was supposed to be the more difficult bit... but as it was so early we were the only tourists there and although very nervous we got through in no time and didn't pay a single penny more than we were expected! The one eventful happening was when Will had to give his fingerprints. Bless him, the fingerprint scanner couldn't detect any fingerprints on any of his fingers. The guys at the immigration were trying to push his fingers down to make it work. Eventually he just laughed at waved him on. Destination 3 Complete!

    We found our bus driver straight away that and said the bus will leave at 11:45am. We had a good hour and half to just chill out, drink a pineapple shake and eat some lunch before heading to Siem Reap on the bus.

    Just a side note, before I came here I didn't really like pineapples, I'm now obsessed, a day without a pineapple shake is like being on holiday without having an ice cream! Criminal!

    So now to complete the journey to our final destination. The ticket we bought was specifically a ticket for the bus that uses the newly built road which shaves off a couple of hours off the travel time. Oh my god what a dream! OK sure it felt like we were constantly melting and the minivan wasn't the comfiest but the road, oh the road!! It was sooo smooth!!! We were on our first normal road in 6 weeks and we'd forgotten that its not normal to constantly be thrown out of your seat due to gravel and pot holes. OK so I wrote the above paragraph a couple of hours ago... I'm now sadly having to update our perfect trip. So we are supposed to arrive at 7pm and it's now 5:30pm. I'm not sure if the driver is running late for dinner or needs a wee but he's suddenly driving like a maniac!! He is not stopping for anyone, constantly beeping to tell people to move out the way and overtaking everything even if there's oncoming traffic. The last hour and half of the journey so pretty rough! But hey we got to Siem Reap safe and sound and the bus company organise personal tuk tuks to your hostel which was great!

    For dinner we had a quick look on Google and we saw the Bug Cafe. Well when in SEA! If intrigued look up bug cafe, Siem Reap on Google. So we read reviews, looked at all the crazy looking pictures and psyched ourselves up for some crazy food. We got to the cafe and it was closed! Disaster, but we ended up at a really lovely Khmer restaurant and ate yummy, not so crazy, food.

    The next day Will had a tummy bug again so we had a slow day of replenishing our stock of toiletries and clothes and planning the next couple of days and how we would do Angkor Wat. With quite a tight budget it took us a bit longer to organise Angkor Wat but eventually with the help of social media we were recommended a tuk tuk driver who would take us the route we wanted in one day for the price we could afford! We have to wait till Saturday but I really can't wait! In the evening we went to the night Market and I got 2 new tops, a skirt and my third pair of sunglasses. Hopefully they last longer this time! If you've never been to the night market, in particular in Siem Reap, the shop assistants constantly ask "do you want tshirt, do you want skirt, do you want trousers, do you want... " and follow you in your face round the market. I'm not really one for people following me and constantly talking to me when shopping and there was one stall in particular where she wouldn't leave me alone and I cracked and said very politely" actually I just want to be left alone". The woman went ballistic... And told me to get out. Well let's just say I didn't buy anything from her. But it was a very successful day and we bought everything we needed to get. Towards the end of the day Will was feeling pretty rough so we went back to the hostel and I bought a margherita pizza, corn on the cob and a Angkor Beer and he was soon better 😊 The beer was actually for me!

    The next day was a slow day starting with my first poached eggs in 2 months! We then went to visit the War museum. The museum, although quite small, was really heart wrenching. A war veteran who went to war from the age of 9 and nearly died over 9 times, also known as the Cat. He had been injured by an array of weapons including an RPG and AK47. He showed us his wounds, ball bearings and shrapnel that is still under his skin. He told us stories about the number of people in his village that had died due to UXO including children just running in the fields or adults gathering food. It was so sad to hear and see the pictures of people to this day that are still dying due to UXO. The museum is a definite must if you are in Siem Reap. For the rest of the day we just relaxed, ate a late lunch and planned our next steps after Siem Reap.

    Today, 1st March, was full of various chores and planning for Angkor Wat and for our sleeper bus and also finishing off our Siem Reap bucket list.

    Firstly with the chores, we finally found a super cheap laundry service that uses hot, I repeat hot water! You have no idea what a luxury this is so we threw our entire 5kg worth of clothes into the wash. Job 1 done.

    For once we have been planning a bit ahead and we've realised our wonderful Chiang Mai family are now in the southern islands off Cambodia and our next stop is there! It will be great to have a mini reunion. However having looked at price of accomodation it is pretty steep... So we are hoping to find something when we get there... If not guess what we decided to purchase. A HAMMOCK!! One of the guys Charlie felt the accomodation was also too steep so he has spent the last couple of days in his own hammock, so we decided why not try it haha Job 2 done.

    After a late lunch we went to see the beautiful Angkor Wat at sunset. For those that haven't been you can either get a one day or 3 day pass. The full site is 400 acres of land, it is unbelievably epic! Of you get time please read or watch a documentary about it, just astounding! We decided to get the one day as you can get it at 4:30pm the day before and then the full day after. So we decided to go crazy and try and do it one day, well the main sites anyway. Having watched the documentary the other day I knew that the site was big and I suppose I knew what it looked like but wowee. When you actually see it. It's just breath taking. As we only had an hour and half before closure we basically ran round the whole place to make the most of our pass and we decided not to go tomorrow and go to others instead. By the end we were being escorted and whistled off the premises with a couple of others hanging on to the dear end. But we saw everything we wanted to see and it was just epic. We then waited till sunset which was also lovely. I am so unbelievably excited for our day tomorrow.

    When we got back as it was our last proper evening we decided to try the bug cafe again. We ordered the tasting plate which has water beetle, crickets, silk worms, scorpion, tarantula and ants. When the plate came although yes it looked odd it didn't look as scary as in the pics and actually they were very easy to eat! Water beetle and silk worm were the nicest to eat and scorpion was very bitter with a slight liver texture. Well at least I can say when insects become the future for protein I'm ready!
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  • Day 3

    Angkor Archaeological Park

    March 1, 2018 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    The next day we got up at 3:50am to begin our full packed day of seeing the Angkor heritage site. First stop Angkor Wat for Sun Rise. It was really lovely. Our expectations were provably set a bit ridiculously high but it was truly lovely when the sun rose over the central tower.

    We then went to see Banteay Srei which was 37km from the main site and unfortunately it was really spoilt with the swarms of screeching and pushing Chinese tourists,which was a shame but I would recommend it even if though you have to travel far. Banteay Srei is a 10th century temple dedicated to the Hindu God Shiva. It is the only temple made of sandstone which allows for the intricate wall carvings.

    Next we went to to Pre Rup, East Mebon, Preah Khan, Neak Pean, Ta Som which were part of the outskirts of the Angkor site and had very few visitors. Personally Preah Khan and Neak Pean were by far my favourite as they were still true ruins with little to no restoration and set in a lake and jungle surrounding. It was beginning to get very very hot and quite difficult to keep going, but being who we are we did not give up.

    The next stop was the very famous and ancient city of Angkor Thom which holds the iconic Bayon temple which is known for the giant stone faces that surround the towers. There are 54 towers each with 4 faces, a total of 216 intricate faces. We were beginning to get very weary.

    It was now the hottest part of the day and although we had been waiting all day to see this masterpiece is was a true killer. We then plodded on to Baphuon, the Elephant Terrace and the Terrace of the Leper King. I was soooo thankful to see the smiling face and waving tuk tuk driver. I sat down feeling like absolute death to be honest. But this still wasn't the last stop. Our tuk tuk driver looked at us and said he's more than happy to take us home as we must have looked like a right pair! We were drenched from sweat, our hair was all over the place, we were just a mess.

    We had a quick wee break and then headed to our final destination, Angkor Wat for the 3rd time in 24 hours. Although we'd already seen 90% of it we hadn't climber to the top of the center, where we were told there were incredible views of the site. So we powered on through ran straight to the middle and got to the top. It was really lovely, I wouldn't say it was quite worth it for a 3rd visit, but still.

    We decided not to stay for sunset and headed back to the hostel. Our tuk tuk drivers was absolutely incredible he showed us way more temples that we expected and was just so patient, flexible and hospitable to our needs.

    Now normal people would then go back to the hostel have a shower, maybe have dinner and then go to bed (we could barely walk...). Nope not us... We had booked a sleeper bus to take us to the Cambodian Islands. This was initially a romatised idea of well we can save money and we will sleep really well as we were so exhausted and then we will wake up rested, get a ferry to the islands, be able to find a hostel super easily and then be checked in and ready for a swim by lunch. Gosh were we wrong...
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  • Day 6

    To our first beach!

    March 4, 2018 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We got on the sleeper bus and although it was generally fine we did not sleep like babies. We arrived in the main town at 5:30am and it was deserted. Nothing was open till 8am so we sat and waited for a place to open for breakfast. I got a huge bowl of muesli, fruit and yoghurt and Will treated himself to a full English breakfast. It had a real sausage, bacon and toast!!

    We then began the nightmare part of the journey... The ferry to the island was really lovely, but then we had to find a hostel in the burning sun while being horrifically dehydrated and tired. Let's just say our relationship was tested! But eventually we found something affordable and it was such a relief so we celebrated with a plate of hummus and freshly made pitta. Then the family arrived and it was soooo nice to see everyone. I literally felt over the moon to see everyone again.

    That evening we all went for dinner, chilled out and had an earlyish night. But when we got back to the hostel Elaine and Brian found bed bugs in their beds!! We checked ours and couldn't really see anything and by this time it was nearly midnight. Brian and Elaine the poor guys were trekking the beach trying to find accommodation, but we just decided to stay and luckily we were OK.

    The next morning Charlie and Brian found a lovely dorm for us all with air con. It wasn't ideal as it was single sex dorms so we were in different rooms but it was the cheapest and cleanest place we could find on the island. We had a much better day of swimming and catching up after everyones exhausting couple of days. For dinner we found a lovely cheap Khmer restaurant which had a very simple menu but the food was lovely and we actually ended up eating there for a couple of days for breakfast, lunch and dinner ha.

    Today is the 6th March and everyones feeling pretty exhausted or ill so we are just sat in a chilled bar reading and catching up on the world with WiFi. 😁
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  • Day 9

    What an amazing day!

    March 7, 2018 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    After having two days of doing very little Will and I were getting very itchy to get out and about so we went for an early breakfast packed up our bags with water snacks and swim stuff and did what we do best, trekking. We told the others we will be back in about an hour or so. First we trekked to a lighthouse which was about an hour from our dorm. It was so hot but so lovely to walk the length of the island and then through the jungle. Along the way we met a lovely guy called Valt who was planning on staying in his hammock on the otherside of the island, so we trekked together to the lighthouse. The view was so lovely, a full 360 of the island. We then trekked to military beach which was so lovely and untouched! The water was so deep and cooling with so many fish! We then dried off on the beach and were told by locals that we could walk to the next beach over which is then about 30 mins from our side of the island. So we decided to go for it. We did some more swimming in deep water, found some more interesting fish and then set up Wills hammock and read our books while waiting for sunset. At this point we realised we had told the guys we'd be back in an hour or so... we left at 10:30am and it was now 6:30pm, but there was no WiFi or signal at all so we headed back through the jungle in the dark back home. We planned to get back before 7pm so we could go on a glowing plankton boat trip but we didn't quite make it. Wups we had a couple of missed calls but we found them and had our well deserved shower.

    You've probably noticed that I've not mentioned food yet. Well I had a fruit plate for breakfast and we at a couple of oreos and peanuts along the way but thats it. We were starving when we got back!!! So we showered and headed to our lovely Khmer restaurant and ordered a chicken curry and green Papaya salad. The others wanted to go somewhere else so we went to meet them later at the bar.

    It was everyone else's last night so we all got beers and things escalated... Gosh where do I even start things started off quite calm happily drinking a couple of beers, then we had Joss shots, jaeger red bull and then more beers... For those that know me and caffeine and me don't really go well together... After doing 2 shots of Joss I was told each sachet is equivalent to drinking about 7 red bulls. Ah crap! Let's just say I was AWAKE! Then a couple of people said they were going to swim out to see the glowing plankton and as we hadn't seen it yet we got down to our underwear and jumped straight in as a really big group. It was incredible, I felt like tinkerbell! You just had to wave your hands the smallest bit and everything would glow green. It was so beautiful!! After a lot of midnight swimming in the sea we went to bed. What an incredible day, so much fun from start to finish. But I did not sleep a wink, I was so wide awake it was unbelievable. I even got up and did my washing early in the morning as I couldn't lie in bed any longer. When I got up I realised there was something seriously wrong with the bottom of my foot, I couldn't put any pressure on it. We thought I might have been stung by a jelly fish or stood on a sea urchin, but aren't quite sure.
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  • Day 10

    Otres Beach

    March 8, 2018 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    We all went for breakfast for 9am and although Will and I were going to stay one day longer we decided to get to Otres Beach with the others as the only reason we were going to stay another night was so we could take a boat trip to see the plankton but we did that. So we packed up and caught a boat to the pier to get another boat the mainland. When we got to the pier Will realised he left his famous and much talked about pants to dry outside his dorm. By gosh I've never seen him so upset, he was determined to run back along the beach (about 30 min run in the peak heat of the day) and retrieve his favourite pants. Although we all told him not to and its just a pair of pants and he might miss the ferry, he obviously did it anyway. We all made bets on how long it would take him and we watched as a tiny red dot ran along the beach. He did it and got back just in the nick of time for the boat. I wish I meant as much to him as his pants do haha

    We jumped on the boat and the sea was quite rough so everyone went in the boat to avoid getting wet. Will and I soldiered on at the back getting soaked but it was so fun. We then took a tuk tuk to the resort where the others planned to stay and it was lovely so me and Will decided to treat ourselves and book a double room with a private room.

    Oh my god it's heaven. I'm currently lying on the outside double bed overlooking the river and watching the birds whilst editing this blog. Again we hadn't eaten since breakfast so we ordered a pizza to share and it was so yummy!! We were so so shattered from not sleeping the night before that we literally didn't move a muscle and ended up sharing another pizza for dinner as well. Wups!!

    The next day was a chores and planning our next steps day. We kicked off the morning by doing our washing and then planning our next move to Kampot and Kep. In the afternoon we went to the beach to read our books, watched sunset. It was our last night with the Chiang Mai family so we went for a family dinner. I had a really yummy seafood and red snapper BBQ before heading for drinks. For the past 2 months, apart from Beer Lao Dark I've been drinking awful lager type beer. I've started to get used to it but it just doesn't hit the spot. We went to a bar on the beach and oh my gosh they sold Angkor Extra Stout and it really was like heaven. So creamy, smooth and chocolatey with a hint of coffee. Just what I needed. A really fab night to end another chapter of the travels.
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  • Day 12

    Why do we do this to ourselves?!

    March 10, 2018 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    So as per planned we got up at the crack of dawn to pack, grab breakfast and get our bus to Kampot. What we didn't plan was to get in gone midnight, to be packing at 1am, to only have 4 hours sleep and for the mini van to Kampot to be an hour late and be absolutely ram packed! But all of the above did happen.. Luckily the journey was only 2 hours so we went straight to our hotel checked in and had a rest.

    For the rest of the day we wandered round the town seeing the various monuments and sites and booked a sunset and firefly boat trip for the evening. Wow just wow. The evening was spectacular. The sunset was really beautiful with the mountains silhouetting below and the fireflies were just unbelievable. There were hundreds just glowing in the trees. So peaceful and tranquil!

    The next day we hired a scooter and ventured into the Bokor National Park. We had a fantastic day and for the first time in a long time we actually felt a bit chilly with the wind of the bike, but it was a refreshing welcome. We drove around the mountains and saw the old church and casino. For lunch we sat at a viewpoint and this was the highlight of the day. We saw a pair of Wreathed Hornbills!!! What a delight! Well we aren't 100% sure but we are 95% sure they were, so we just sat for an hour watching them glide around in the distance. After lunch I decided to have a go with the scooter and woohoo I mastered it. It was lots of fun but I definitely need some more practise before doing anything big. It was such a lovely day ☺️

    It's Monday 12th and we are going to the Kampot Pepper plantation and then driving to Kep which is a small village with a butterfly garden. Can't wait!
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  • Day 14

    Part 1: Kampot Pepper Plantation

    March 12, 2018 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    So today we are off to the famous pepper plantation farm and Kep. I've split this day into 2 footprints as I have too many pictures to choose from!

    We hired the scooter for an extra day and took an extra change of clothes in case we decide to stay the night in Kep. The road to the Plantation was pretty rough but Will did an incredible job of steering us round pot holes! We stopped at a "Secret Lake" and then to the Plantation. It was really fantastic, with lots and lot of pepper tasters. I was truly peppered out by the end! For those that haven't tried Kampot Pepper it's really fruity and only gives a light pepper kick at the very end and you eat it non dried. The plantation also grew many fruit trees including mango, banana, papaya, pineapple, passion fruit and pomegranate. We then had peanut butter and jam sandwiches before heading back on the nightmare road and then to Kep.Read more

  • Day 14

    Part 2: Kep

    March 12, 2018 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    When we got to Kep we went straight to the Butterfly Farm which was so amazing and only $1! We saw so many lovely butterflies including the male striped blue crow which was particularly lovely. We then went walking around the national park, rode along the coast to our final stop for the day, the famous crab market. Apologies in advance to my vegan/ vegetarian readers! I think we got there just in time before the market closed. It was so much fun! We chose crabs that had just been freshly caught and took them to the chef who cooked them for us. Literally the freshest crab I've ever had, so yummy and with the beautiful sunset while having dinner.

    What a fantastic day!! Tomorrow we will journey to our final stop in Cambodia, the capital, Phnom Penh.
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  • Day 15

    Final stop - Phnom Penh

    March 13, 2018 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    As always we decide to book the earliest bus there is and have the most terrible night sleep the night before and therefore wish we could have a lie in.

    Cambodian drivers are just mental and I soon realised this was because most of them are either drunk or drugged up... Anyway, the journey wasn't too bad, for once the bus wasn't heaving and, although there were a couple of close shots, we didn't die so I feel I need to be thankful. 😁 We went straight to our hostel and chilled out for a while before heading out. After grabbing some lunch we headed to CINA Travel Agency to sort out our visa. As we've heard so many incredible things about Vietnam we've decided to apply for the 3 month visa just in case we decide to stay more than a month. And wow, I recommend this company to anyone, super efficient, super polite and cheaper than going to the embassy, oh and they gave us sweets! Although they said it would take two days to process the visa it was done by 5:30pm the next day! Fantastic! We then went for a wander round Wat Phnom, along the Riverside, to the old and night market, bought my 4th pair of cheap crappy sunglasses (fingers crossed they will last this time!) and then wandered down the river in search of dinner. We decided to go to a noodle place that made the noodles fresh in front of you. The experience was pretty cool but the sauce on the noodles was non descript. So a bit of a disappointing end to the day but a lovely day anyway ☺️

    Last night we both had a terrible night sleep so had a bit of lie in. Then we hired a tuk tuk and went to S21 and the Killing Fields. I'm not going to write much here but please take some time to research them and the history of Cambodia. I just can't believe the history of this country and how it all only happened in 1974 and even then countries like the UK still supported the Khmer Rouge in spite of the mass genocide of men, women and children, who they were and the lack of care for the Cambodian people. All they cared about was money and all the western countries cared about was money. Truly embarrassing.

    When we got back we picked up our Vietnam visas and passport, visited the central market, bought some scummy longan berries for snacks and had the scrummiest dinner in a while. Grilled mackerel, fried garlic prawns and stir fried rice ☺️ God I've missed mackerel!!!!!

    We had another awful night sleep so let's just say our tempers were a little short until after breakfast/ brunch. We decided to head to the Grand Palace, but found it shut for lunch which also didn't help matters. It was hot, we were bothered and I sat down unknowingly next to some bird poop and dipped my hand in it. We had to sit in shade to calm down for a while... Hehe the rest of the day was great though!! We wandered down the river Tonle Sao to where it meets the Mekong, saw a couple of monuments, splashed out on a make your own salad bowl (super yummy), got a free coffee from the cafe, went to Le Moon Rooftop bar drinking expensive cocktails while learning Vietnamese, picked up our free Angkor beers that we won and then ate roasted duck on the street. Overall a very expensive but good day. Tomorrow, Vietnam!!
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