A Stranger in a Familiar Land

Singapore & Thailand in the time of Covid もっと詳しく

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2021年11月17日
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日1
2021年11月17日水曜日 6:59
⛅ 23 °C
海抜: 152 m
アメリカ Palolo 21.302374, -157.78372221°18’9” N 157°47’1” W
Prologue
2021年11月17日, アメリカ ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
Up until mid-October, I was dithering on whether and where to go for my first pandemic era international trip. My first preference was Singapore because I hadn't seen my family in almost two years, and so I monitored whether Singapore would waive quarantine for vaccinated travelers. My backup plan was to go to Canada or Europe.

In September, Singapore opened up Vaccinated Travel Lanes (VTL) with Germany and Brunei. I wasn't holding out hope that they would add a VTL from the United States in the near future because the Covid situation in the US was awful, and vaccination rates had stalled. But, rather unexpectedly, Singapore announced a VTL with the United States. Around the same time, there were also rumblings that Thailand may reopen. So, I decided to go to Singapore for a week to visit family and friends, and then head north to Thailand.

Truth be told, I preferred to go to Asia anyway because I knew that, as a whole, people there view battling the pandemic as a collective effort, and so mask usage would be high, and people would get vaccinated as soon as they could secure one. Surprisingly, I also managed to secure a booster shot before I departed, which I guess was a sad consequence of having excess doses available due to the stalled vaccination efforts in the US.もっと詳しく
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日1
2021年11月17日水曜日 7:00
⛅ 23 °C
海抜: 18 m
アメリカ Honolulu International Airport 21.331511, -157.91996821°19’53” N 157°55’12” W
Honolulu to Los Angeles
2021年11月17日, アメリカ ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
American Airlines AA1480 | HNL/LAX
First Class (Domestic)
N406AN | Airbus A321NEO
ATD/0755 | ATA/1501
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日1
2021年11月17日水曜日 16:00
☀️ 17 °C
海抜: 47 m
アメリカ Los Angeles International Airport 33.943481, -118.40892833°56’37” N 118°24’32” W
Los Angeles to Singapore
2021年11月17日, アメリカ ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
Singapore Airlines SQ37 | LAX/SIN
Economy Class
9V-SMZ | Airbus A350-900
ATD/2246 | ATA/0909+2
Lounge: Admiral's Club T4

================================================================

Only a handful of flights - all operated by Singapore Airlines - were included in the Vaccinated Travel Lane (VTL) between the United States and Singapore. As such, I had to fly from HNL to LAX first, and then on the designated VTL flight from LAX to SIN. I primarily fly OneWorld, and so I did not have enough United miles to redeem for a premium class seat. I also I did not want to fork out extra cash for a premium class seat as I would have limited use for the Star Alliance miles earned, so I reluctantly stuck with Economy Class. As I had a seven hour layover, I redeemed Business ExtrAA points for a day pass to the Admiral's Club in T4.

The LAX/SIN flight was over 17 hours, and it is my longest flight to date. I spent all of November 18th in the air. At check in, I sweet talked the staff into assigning me an exit seat with no one next to me. It was surreal boarding an SQ flight after so many years, but I was quickly reminded how much I miss SQ. I made an instant connection with the two cabin crew who sat at the exit for takeoff, and they paid extra attention to me and addressed me by name for the remainder of the flight. The seat was surprisingly comfortable for an economy class seat, and I slept rather well. I only watched three movies on this long flight.

There were some obvious changes since I worked for SQ, particularly in catering. I noted that the mains were now served in plastic casseroles, and that the portion sizes were much larger. Gone, however, were appetizers, cupped water, cheese and crackers, and sliced fruit for breakfast. Overall, I liked the simplified meal concept. The black serviceware was also practical and elegant.もっと詳しく
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日3
2021年11月19日金曜日 9:00
☁️ 28 °C
海抜: 27 m
シンガポール Hong Lim Park 1.287101, 103.8482891°17’14” N 103°50’54” E
Arrival in Singapore & VTL Isolation
2021年11月19日, シンガポール ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
I studied and read all the VTL requirements and I made sure I met all the conditions to avoid quarantine. To even get onto the VTL flight, I had to present a negative PCR test result. I had to point out to the harried check in staff at LAX where it said “PCR” on my test results.

On arrival into a very quiet SIN, I had a minor scare at immigration when the officer wouldn’t even look at my paper vaccination certificates, and he wouldn’t accept my explanation for why he could not scan my vaccination QR. Fortunately, the supervisor on duty knew that the US QR code could not be scanned like normal QR codes, and she let me through. I was whisked to a swabbing station, and then into a waiting taxi which took me directly to the Quay Hotel on North Bridge Road where I was to stay in isolation while I awaited the result of my Covid test.

I chose the Quay Hotel because it was cheap. When I got to the hotel, I realized that I booked a small, dark, windowless room, and I fretted about having to be confined in there if I tested positive. After a quick mee pok lunch (which I had to eat with my hands because there were no utensils in the package) delivered by Grab, I went to sleep. I was awoken by a call from a contact tracer around 5pm, at which time I checked my email and saw my negative Covid test result. As I was free to go, I groggily wandered out for a porridge dinner, and then I returned to stay the night. I had a roti prata breakfast the next morning, and then I checked out and headed to Hume Park.もっと詳しく
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日4
2021年11月20日土曜日 7:00
🌧 25 °C
海抜: 192 m
シンガポール Bukit Timah Nature Reserve 1.354692, 103.7763551°21’17” N 103°46’35” E
Bukit Timah Nature Reserve
2021年11月20日, シンガポール ⋅ 🌧 25 °C
My time in Singapore was mostly spent hiking around Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, and spending time with family and friends.
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日10
2021年11月26日金曜日 13:00
☁️ 31 °C
海抜: 19 m
シンガポール Singapore Changi Airport 1.362678, 103.9891971°21’46” N 103°59’21” E
Singapore to Bangkok Suvarnabhumi
2021年11月26日, シンガポール ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C
Gulf Air GF165 | SIN/BKK
Economy Class
A9C-FG | Boeing 787-9 with special 70th anniversary livery
ATD/1355 | ATA/1518

================================================================

When researching flights from Singapore to Bangkok, an intriguing option revealed itself: a fifth freedom flight with Gulf Air for only USD80. It was only a tad bit more expensive than the low cost carriers, and I had never flown Gulf Air before, so I happily booked it.

The flight to BKK was surreal as there were only about a dozen passengers on the Boeing 787. The taxi to runway 02R was probably the longest taxi I've ever been on. The aircraft taxied north from the west side of T1, past the T5 construction site, and then southwards to the southern end of runway 02R. Service was perfunctory and somewhat cold. The inflight meal consisted of two plastic wrapped pastries.

After landing in BKK, we taxied past dozens of stored aircraft. It felt like we were sailing past ghost ships.

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日10
2021年11月26日金曜日 17:00
⛅ 30 °C
海抜: 9 m
タイ Prawet 13.707687, 100.7009213°42’28” N 100°42’3” E
Bangkok Test and Go
2021年11月26日, タイ ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C
The paperwork to get to Thailand was a bit of a mixed bag. The first step is to book a flight and a Test and Go package at a hotel, as well as travel insurance. Once that was completed, one then had to apply for a Thailand Pass, which involved uploading vaccination certificates and QR codes, proof of travel insurance, and proof of having booked a Test and Go package. The application was a tad frustrating because the pdf upload wasn't working, so I had to take photographs of everything and upload them as jpgs. Once the application was submitted, I only needed to wait a few hours before my Thailand Pass and QR code were issued.

Arrival into Thailand was efficient. Before reaching the immigration counters, we were made to sit on some chairs while attendants came to us individually to make sure we had the correct documents to present to immigration. The immigration counters were eerily quiet. Once through immigration, I met my Test and Go hotel representative who then took me to another holding area while he checked my documentation. After a short wait, another traveler and I were herded into a waiting van to the Elegant Airport Hotel.

The Test and Go package includes one night at the hotel, three meals, and a covid swab to be administered on site. I specifically chose the Elegant Airport Hotel because it was close to the airport and because it was one of the more reasonably priced packages at THB3,900 (about USD130). On arrival, the efficient staff checked me in, got me to select my meals, and then sent me to the nurses' station for my swab. I was then informed that my test result would arrive at 4am.

My room was large and very pleasant. Sadly, the view wasn't great. Right next to the hotel was a squatter settlement - the people there lived in shipping containers amidst piles of rubble. They were flanked by the hotel on one side, and a walled in luxury housing development on the other. This stark contrast was a familiar sight back when I lived in Bangkok on the 1990s, and it seems little has changed.

Despite the comfortable surroundings, I had a fitful nights' sleep. I'd had a negative PCR test result two days earlier, but there still is a certain amount of anxiety when waiting for a Covid test result. The result came in as scheduled, and I was free to go. I ate breakfast, and then made my way back to the airport for my flight up north to Chiang Mai.
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日11
2021年11月27日土曜日 10:00
☀️ 26 °C
海抜: 29 m
タイ Suvarnabhumi Airport 13.691783, 100.75088513°41’30” N 100°45’3” E
Bangkok to Chiang Mai
2021年11月27日, タイ ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Thai Smile WE160 | BKK/CNX
Economy Class
HS-TXT | Airbus A320-200
ATD/1027 | ATA/1143

Covid regulations prohibited serving of food on board. Each passenger got a bag of snacks at disembarkation.

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日11
2021年11月27日土曜日 12:00
⛅ 27 °C
海抜: 313 m
タイ Chiang Mai 18.787791, 98.99332818°47’16” N 98°59’36” E
Thapae Gate & Initial Explorations
2021年11月27日, タイ ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
After a quick taxi ride to my lodging, I was out and about on the streets of Chiang Mai. My first order of the day: food! Specifically, khao soi, a northern Thai curry noodle dish rarely found in the US. I made my way to the nearest khao soi stand and had a satisfying bowl of noodles. The rest of my day was spent wandering around the city, getting my bearings in order to set myself up for the days of exploring ahead. I looked out for useable landmarks and noted where my sightseeing targets were. I quickly established that the city walls and moat, and, in particular the eastern gate, also known as the Thapae Gate, were my best landmarks. The only visible highrise was the Meridien which also served as a secondary landmark. Overall, though, I was just pleased to be back in Thailand. This is a country I have lived in, and I love the culture and the people. Because I can get by in Thai, it is also easy for me to figure my way around.

At Thapae Gate, I observed in amusement as instagrammers paid a man to first feed pigeons and then hurl a stick among them to get them to fly around the subject of the photo. Nearby, the photographer would be clicking away in the hope of getting the perfect shot.

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日11
2021年11月27日土曜日 15:00
⛅ 28 °C
海抜: 315 m
タイ Chiang Mai 18.789695, 98.98714218°47’23” N 98°59’14” E
Wat Inthakin Sadue Muang
2021年11月27日, タイ ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C
During my initial wanderings, the first temple I visited was Wat Inthakin Sadue Muang. Aside from this temple, I didn't visit any others because I was focused on getting my bearings for a more detailed exploration later.

That evening, my friend Paul and his wife Renu came to get me at the hotel. We drove out to dinner at a restaurant by the Ping River. I had a great time catching up with Paul, and getting to know Renu. Like me, Paul took a career break in 2017. Unlike me, however, he did not return to the United States. He met Renu in Bangkok, and when he got home, he sold his apartment, disposed of his belongings, and flew back to Thailand. He now owns a small real estate development and management firm in Doi Saket on the outskirts of Chiang Mai.

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日12
2021年11月28日日曜日 8:00
⛅ 16 °C
海抜: 1,601 m
タイ Doi Suthep 18.816963, 98.89236518°49’1” N 98°53’33” E
Doi Suthep
2021年11月28日, タイ ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
I awoke early and decided to start my explorations with a trip out to Doi Suthep, a sacred mountain to the west of the city. It didn't take me long to find a red sawngthaew to get me out to Doi Suthep. I paid the going rate for a charter out there. In normal times, I would likely have been able to find other travelers to split the cost with me, but not this time. In any case, many of the hardworking locals were probably having a tough time getting through the pandemic, and I wasn't going to nickel and dime my way with them.

The drive to Doi Suthep took about 30 minutes. Before long, we reached the mountain proper and started our ascent. En route, I observed locals giving alms to monks. As it was Sunday, there were many cyclists riding up the mountain, along with a handful of runners. I observed with amusement that some of the friendly stray dogs trotted alongside the cyclists and runners as they made their way uphill.

The sawngthaew driver deposited me at the base of the famous naga steps. I made my way up the 300+ steps to the Doi Suthep temple, which was spectacular. The views over Chiang Mai were a little hazy, but I could make out the outline of the moat and the airport. After wandering around the temple grounds, I made my way back down the naga steps and back to Chiang Mai. I asked the driver to send me to a boat noodle stand of his choosing. There, I had a delicious breakfast which put me in good stead to continue my day of exploring.

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日12
2021年11月28日日曜日 12:00
☀️ 27 °C
海抜: 323 m
タイ Wat Chedi Luang 18.78661, 98.98740818°47’12” N 98°59’15” E
Wat Chedi Luang
2021年11月28日, タイ ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
My first sightseeing target within Chiang Mai was Wat Chedi Luang. The main temple, pretty as it was, wasn't my prime target. Rather, I was interested in the 14th century stupa behind it, and it certainly did not disappoint. I circumnavigated the breathtaking stupa several times and then I simply sat and admired it.

Later that evening, I returned to admire the stupa while wandering the night market.

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日12
2021年11月28日日曜日 14:00
☀️ 29 °C
海抜: 314 m
タイ Chiang Mai 18.787784, 98.987818°47’16” N 98°59’16” E
Wat Phan Tao & City Pillar
2021年11月28日, タイ ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
After Wat Chedi Luang, I popped in to the City Pillar shrine, then I went to Wat Phan Tao nearby.

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日12
2021年11月28日日曜日 16:00
☀️ 29 °C
海抜: 321 m
タイ Wat Phrasing Wora maha Wihan 18.788547, 98.98188218°47’19” N 98°58’55” E
Wat Phra Singh
2021年11月28日, タイ ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
After visiting the City Pillar shrine, I wandered the streets of Chiang Mai while I headed in the general direction of Wat Phra Singh. At Wat Phra Singh, I wandered the grounds for a bit before heading back in the general direction of my hotel.

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日12
2021年11月28日日曜日 19:00
🌙 24 °C
海抜: 304 m
タイ Chiang Mai 18.787829, 98.99186818°47’16” N 98°59’31” E
Night Market & Other Wanderings
2021年11月28日, タイ ⋅ 🌙 24 °C
At Wat Phra Singh, I wandered the grounds for a bit before heading back in the general direction of my hotel. I then took an afternoon nap before heading out again. This time, I explored some of the sois just outside the old city. As I passed the Thapae Gate, I noted that there were about a dozen people protesting the lese majeste law. They were lined up on the side of the road holding up signs and giving the Hunger Games salute. Such a display would have been unthinkable when I lived in Thailand. Times have changed.

Upon returning to the old city, I realized that many of the nearby streets had closed down for the Sunday Walking Street event. I had a pleasant evening out exploring the stalls, and also getting a nighttime perspective of the various monuments I had visited during daylight. I am sure that this event was a shadow of its pre-Covid self, but it was also nice to see the locals reclaiming the space. I was pleased to note that even the Walking Street event took Covid seriously. Checkpoints were set up at all the entrances. There, all people entering the street had their temperatures checked, and they were required to scan the QR code using the Morchana app. I had noted earlier in the day that most establishments had similar requirements.

I had dinner at the Walking Street. I ate a searingly spicy mushroom salad, accompanied with a cooling mango smoothie. After dinner, I wandered some more, and I found myself at the Thapae Gate again. There, I ordered a sweet roti with nutella from a delightful Muslim woman. When she received my cash, she did a cute little ritual which involved touching various points of her stall with my 20 baht notes. Nearby there were anti-meat industry protesters dressed in black holding up monitors showing how animals were slaughtered.

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日13
2021年11月29日月曜日 13:00
⛅ 28 °C
海抜: 405 m
タイ Wat Phrabat Tin Nok 18.913794, 99.12090318°54’50” N 99°7’15” E
Wat Phrabat Tinnok
2021年11月29日, タイ ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C
I spent the morning wandering the old city again after another noodle breakfast. I wanted to explore a couple of the museums, in particular the Lanna Folklife Museum, but they were all closed. After some walking, I returned to my hotel. There, I had a conversation with Jeff about whether I should cut short my trip due to the emerging Omicron variant. I assessed that because Thailand moved quickly to revoke quarantine free travel for people who had been in Southern Africa, the risk to my safety wasn't great. The bigger risk in my mind was whether Japan Air Lines would cancel my flights. As it were, Japan wasn't allowing foreigners in, and so they were operating overseas flights primarily for cargo and transiting passengers. After some discussion, we decided that I should continue as I only had six more days, and even if I could secure an earlier flight, I would not be able to board it unless I undertook a Covid test (which I had already booked for December 3rd). I'm a little nervous, but I have to accept that there is a real risk of getting stranded nowadays if I am to cross borders.

Paul came to get me just after noon. Our plan was to drive out to the Doi Saket area, which is located about 20 minutes drive northeast of the old city, where he lives and works. Our first order of the day was more khao soi, this time at a roadside stall near his home. After that, we stopped by his office for a while, before we set off to Wat Phrabat Tinnok to enjoy some views of the area.

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日13
2021年11月29日月曜日 14:00
☁️ 29 °C
海抜: 495 m
タイ Doi Saket 18.908846, 99.24868818°54’32” N 99°14’55” E
Take A Walk Cafe
2021年11月29日, タイ ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C
Our next planned destinated was a waterfall known as as the Sticky Waterfall (Namtok Bua Tong). Getting there, however, required driving up to a dam and then along the dam. We drove to the dam via several routes only to encounter closed gates. Finally, we asked a guard and he told us the dam was closed to the public due to Covid. I cannot imagine why that would be the case, but we decided to go to another waterfall in the area called Namtok Mae Kampong. Getting there involved driving along some country roads. En route, we stopped at a property called Take a Walk for a coffee. To get to the coffee shop, we had to walk along a path and then across a suspension bridge. Once across the bridge, we got a lawn with a whimsical hobbit-like house, and various structures. After a good coffee, we set off uphill to get to the waterfall.

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日13
2021年11月29日月曜日 16:00
☁️ 23 °C
海抜: 1,110 m
タイ Ban Mae Kampong Pang Khon 18.862464, 99.35609918°51’45” N 99°21’22” E
Mae Kampong Waterfall
2021年11月29日, タイ ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
The road to Mae Kampong Waterfall was narrow, steep, and winding. Along the way, we saw many lodgings, shops, and lodgings catering to domestic tourists. I developed a mild case of motion sickness and I was glad to finally reach our destination. A brisk walk in the cool mountain air (we were at an elevation of over 3,000 feet) helped clear the nausea.

On the way back into Chiang Mai, we stopped for an early dinner at a restaurant that was hidden away. The restaurant itself was really nice, with rice field views. The food was good too. After dinner, Paul dropped me off at my hotel.

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日13
2021年11月29日月曜日 17:00
⛅ 28 °C
海抜: 322 m
タイ Chiang Mai 18.788218, 98.98713718°47’18” N 98°59’14” E
Chiang Mai - Food
2021年11月29日, タイ ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C
Here are pictures of the meals I consumed in Chiang Mai.

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日14
2021年11月30日火曜日 12:00
⛅ 27 °C
海抜: 312 m
タイ Chiang Mai 18.787776, 98.99304418°47’16” N 98°59’35” E
Chiang Mai to New Sukhothai
2021年11月30日, タイ ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
Pre-Covid, Thailand was one of the easiest non-English speaking countries to navigate. One could simply step into any of the numerous agencies and book transport and day tours. When planning this trip, I was a little concerned about whether the usual backpacker transport routes were running between Chiang Mai and Sukhothai (as it turns out, they weren't), and I was also a little concerned about the risk of being crammed into a minibus. Fortunately, Paul saved the day once again. His wife Renu had gone to her hometown of Kamphaeng Phet to vote, and Paul was planning to drive down, visit her family, and then drive her back. As Sukhothai was a short diversion, he offered to drive me.

Our drive took about 4.5 hours with stops en route for coffee and a random Portuguese egg tart stand at a rest stop. Along the way, we had some great conversations about how our lives and careers have turned out since the time he lived in Honolulu over a decade ago.

Paul dropped me off at my guesthouse around 2pm. After checking in, I went out in search of food and to get myself oriented to New Sukhothai. Although New Sukhothai is a 20 minute drive from Sukhothai Historical Park, I heeded the advice from the Lonely Planet and other sites to base myself there because of the good budget accommodations and wider range of food options.

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日14
2021年11月30日火曜日 18:00
⛅ 28 °C
海抜: 53 m
タイ Sukhothai Thani 17.008767, 99.81719217°0’32” N 99°49’2” E
New Sukhothai
2021年11月30日, タイ ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C
After a short rest, I ventured out again after sundown to eat at the night market. Thousands of birds were active after sunset, and the noise was deafening. I was surprised to find that only a small handful of the vendors had English signage, as I thought pre-Covid Sukhothai had a critical mass of travelers. Although I speak enough Thai to get by, I never learned to read it, so I am functionally illiterate in this context. I found a stall selling khao man gai (Hainan-style chicken rice) and tucked in happily. For me, one of my happy places is to eat on a makeshift table with traffic whizzing past just feet away. I felt as if I was meant to be right here, right now. For dessert, I had sankaya (a sort of custard), and I had a fun exchange in Thai (supplemented with gestures) with the vendor who was very interested in what vaccines were available in the US. She was very surprised to learn that I had my booster shot already.

Included in this entry are shots of various other meals eaten in my three days in the area.

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日15
2021年12月1日水曜日 9:00
⛅ 24 °C
海抜: 54 m
タイ Sukhothai 17.016941, 99.70402517°1’1” N 99°42’14” E
Sukhothai Central Zone: Wat Mahathat
2021年12月1日, タイ ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
After a hearty breakfast the next morning, I asked the guesthouse owner if the sawngthaew that regularly plied between New Sukhothai and the park for 30 baht were running. He said they weren't. It certainly wasn't business as usual. He advised me to flag down a samlor (a pedicab powered by a motorcycle), and that the going rate was 150 baht. I certainly am having to pay more because it isn't business as usual. But, I am sympathetic to all the people in the informal economy whose livelihoods were upended when the tourists stopped coming.

Sukhothai Historical Park is roughly divided into three zones - the main park itself, a northern zone, and a western zone. My samlor driver Khun Thorh (this is the closest transliteration of his nickname that I can think of; the intonation is similar to the second tone in Mandarin) dropped me off at a bicycle rental place and told me to call him if I needed a return ride. I then hoisted myself onto my rickety rental bike and ventured into the main part of the park. The bike rental cost 30 baht (US$1)!

My first stop was the Wat Mahathat, which was a huge and spectacular ruin. The highlight of this ruin was two large standing Buddha statues. One statue had one hand raised, and the other did not. I was mildly amused by the cliched sight of two westerners meditating in front of one of the statues while listening to a recording of a Buddhist chant.

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日15
2021年12月1日水曜日 9:45
⛅ 26 °C
海抜: 56 m
タイ Sukhothai 17.013758, 99.70230117°0’50” N 99°42’8” E
Sukhothai Central Zone: Wat Si Sawai
2021年12月1日, タイ ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
The rest of the ruins in the main park were much smaller and less grandiose. Next up was Wat Si Sawai, which had three Khmer-style prangs. At this wat, a cop asked me to take a selfie with him!

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日15
2021年12月1日水曜日 9:52
☀️ 26 °C
海抜: 59 m
タイ Sukhothai 17.016472, 99.70004317°0’59” N 99°42’0” E
Sukhothai Central: Wat Tra Prang Ngoen
2021年12月1日, タイ ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Located near Wat Si Sawai, Wat Tra Prang Ngoen features a sitting Buddha and a chedi.
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日15
2021年12月1日水曜日 10:00
☀️ 26 °C
海抜: 54 m
タイ Sukhothai 17.020121, 99.70474217°1’12” N 99°42’17” E
Sukhothai Central: Wat Chana Songkhram
2021年12月1日, タイ ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
My next stop was Wat Chana Songkhram which had a huge bell shaped chedi.

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