• Siewch

Adelaide | 2023

A Quick Trip Down Under For Friends and Food. Read more
  • Trip start
    December 8, 2023

    Honolulu to Sydney

    December 8, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Qantas QF104 | HNL/SYD
    Poor Man’s Business Class (i.e., a row of economy seats to myself)
    Airbus A330-300 | VH-QPB Tennant Creek
    ATD/1106 | ATA/1906+1
    Lounge: Qantas Business Lounge

    As the end of the year approached, I had four remaining use-it-or-lose-it vacation days for 2023 even after I deferred the maximum of five vacation days into 2024. As I had already requalified for status with American Airlines, I did not want to fork out cash for flights for the remainder of the current qualification period. So, I started looking at mileage redemption options. My saver redemption options were limited, and, after evaluating the few itineraries available to me, I decided to go on a quick trip to Adelaide to visit my friend Trixie. I’ve been to Adelaide four times already, so this trip was more about spending quality time with friends and savoring good food.

    I arrived at Honolulu Airport about 90 minutes before my flight. When I researched Qantas’ operations out of HNL, I was surprised to learn that they have a lounge there. I assumed that, with a less than daily service, they would utilize JAL’s Sakura Lounge instead of incurring the expense of operating their own lounge. I was intrigued and so I budgeted time to explore the Qantas Business Lounge.

    The lounge wasn’t easy to find as it was located in the courtyard area below the main departures level and it wasn’t well signposted. But, it was in the most picturesque part of the airport. The lounge itself was small and basic. Instead of tarmac views, we had a view of the garden outside. There was a selection of breakfast foods to choose from. My favorite offering at the lounge was a grab and go sandwich counter.

    I managed to book business class for all my flights except this first segment from HNL to SYD. When I booked this flight, I chose seat 29D, and the online seat map showed that seats 29E, 29F, and 29G were available right until the day before the flight. When the flight was opened for checkin, however, these seats began showing as not available on the Qantas app, so I resigned myself to sitting upright for ten hours. Imagine my delight when boarding was completed and I had the whole row of four seats to myself! I had lucked out into what many call the poor man’s (sic.) business class!

    The flight itself was pleasant. I was impressed that Qantas offered a choice of three meals in economy class, including a vegetarian option. However, I thought the meal setup was a little complex for economy class. Qantas eschews the traditional tray service; instead, the flight attendants had to place a casserole on a small plate, gather a bun, napkin, utensils and drink, and hand the lot to the passenger. I cannot help but wonder how much longer meal service takes with this setup. After the meal, I had a restful flight stretching out across four seats. The sandwich from the lounge came in handy when I felt peckish mid flight. It was barely palatable but it staved off hunger.

    Arrival into SYD was delayed due to high and variable winds. We landed about 25 minutes late after circling for a long time. I was concerned about making my connection so I hightailed it out of the aircraft, made my way to immigration (thank goodness for the automated gates for select passports) and customs, and on to the Qantas domestic transfer area where I boarded a bus for the trip across the tarmac to Terminal. 3.
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  • Sydney to Adelaide

    December 9, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 26 °C

    Qantas QF749 | SYD/ADL
    Business Class
    Boeing 737-800 | VH-XZA Leeton
    ATD/2215 | ATA/2237
    Lounge: Qantas Business Lounge

    I made it through the international to domestic transfer with enough time for a quick shower in the Qantas Business Lounge in the domestic terminal. After a quick post-shower drink at the lounge, I made my way to the gate.

    The flight to ADL was uneventful. Andrea, the customer facing business class flight attendant, addressed the other three business class passengers by name, but not me. I suspect she didn’t know how to pronounce my name, but she didn’t ask me how I would like to be addressed either. As a result, a felt a little excluded during the flight. Yes, I know this is a first world problem.

    I landed at a very rainy ADL. Upon landing, Andrea made an announcement acknowledging the traditional custodians of the land in Adelaide. I also noticed similar text at the end of the safety video on both of today’s flights. This was new to me.

    After disembarking, I made my way to the designated meeting point with Trixie. At her house, I was greeted by her husband Charles and her pups Milo and Millie.
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  • Rainy Day Shennanigans: Food, Food, Food

    December 10, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    It rained all day Sunday, and so our activities were limited. Trixie and I dropped Charles off at church, and then we walked a short distance over to Butter & Toast, a Vietnamese immigrant-owned cafe that had some unusual donut flavors. I had pandan donut and Trixie had Thai milk tea donut.

    After collecting Charles from church, we drove northwest to Gawler for lunch with Ryan (another Singapore emigrant) and his husband Anthony at The Java Hut. I’m not much of a meat eater but I had to have bacon as it is so much better in Australia; I’ve never really liked American bacon which is often burnt to a crisp. After almost two hours of conversation, we went for a short gander around Gawler before making our way back for a short nap; there wasn’t much else to do.

    For dinner, we drove out to Truly Malaysian Village where we had a hearty feast of Malay food. Ryan drove from Gawler to join us. The Malay kuih (cakes) were particularly memorable, as well as the satay. It was a sedap (Malay for delicious) experience and a rare treat for me since Singaporean and Malaysian cuisine isn’t readily available in Hawaiʻi. The restaurant itself was well patronized and it seemed almost all the customers were Asian immigrants.
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  • Garden Island Ship Graveyard

    December 11, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Rain was again forecast for Monday, and so our plans revolved around driving and having easy access to shelter.

    Our first order of the day was brunch. Trixie drove us to a Malaysian-owned cafe in the eastern side of Adelaide specializing in croissants and pies. In addition to the traditional Australian pies, the owners experimented with fusion pie flavors such as beef bulgogi and chicken curry pies. The cafe also offered Malaysian chicken curry with roti prata and pappadum, which I gratefully tucked into.

    After lunch, we dropped Charles off at his bridge club and made our way to Port Adelaide. Back in 2017, we went there to visit the nearby Torrens Island Dolphin Sanctuary. This time, we made a return there because I discovered an Atlas Obscura site - a ship graveyard - near there. More info here: https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/garden-isla….

    As we drove towards the dolphin sanctuary, I spotted the ship graveyard. We looked for an access path, but we found none, so we had to be content with taking pictures from a distance. There were at least three rusting hulls, but they were hard to spot as they blended with the mangrove in the background.

    After that, we went to the dolphin sanctuary. Unfortunately, it was low tide and we didn’t see any dolphins. As we walked along the boardwalk, there was lightning and thunder in the far distance.
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  • Rained Out at Henley Beach

    December 11, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Departing Port Adelaide, we considered our options and decided to go to Henley Beach for gelato. Once there, we had a lovely gelato at a shop staffed by Italian immigrants. After consuming our sweet treat, we decided to walk up the pier. Even though it was overcast and there was thunder and lightning in the far distance, it didn’t seem as if rain was imminent. Boy were we wrong; three quarters up the pier, the skies suddenly opened up. Even the crab fisherman on the pier was caught by surprise. We ran to the shelter at the end of the jetty. As we ran, the rain came at us at a sharp angle, and the raindrops felt painful as they hit us. Once we were under shelter, we observed various people on the beach and on the boardwalk scrambling for shelter.

    The rain let up a little after ten minutes, so we took a chance and made our way back up the pier. We were half soaked by the time we got back to the car. From there, we made our way back to Charles’ bridge club. The traffic was slow moving due to the heavy rain. Along the way, we joked repeatedly about how we’ve had rare rainstorms on my two summer visits to Australia so far.
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  • Christmas Lights

    December 11, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    I was craving schnitzel - a rarity in Hawaiʻi - and so Trixie and Charles took me to a local pub that features a schnitzel dinner special on Mondays and Tuesdays. The special includes unlimited vegetables.

    After dinner, we drove over to visit Peter, one of Charles’ friends from his bridge club. Peter lived on a street that is known for its Christmas lights. After a chat over drinks (during which Peter got more and more talkative as he drank more, and his wife kept looking at him with what I assume to be a mix of irritation and concern 😆) we walked up and down the street admiring the lights. Then most notable decoration on the street was a 30-40 foot inflatable Grinch.
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  • Adelaide Botanic Gardens

    December 12, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I woke up to overcast skies in my final full day in Adelaide. Light rain was forecasted for later that day. With this in mind, I decided to play it safe and explore Adelaide instead of venturing further afield to the beaches.

    My first stop of the day was the Adelaide Botanic Gardens. When we drove past the gardens on Monday, I spotted a banner advertising a free walking tour at 10.30am daily. I made my way to the gardens by bus and joined the walking tour.

    The tour took about 90 minutes and it was well worth my time because the docent took us away from the main walking paths. She showed us some plants that the indigenous people and settlers used for food, clothing, and dyes, and she also gave some history of the gardens. The highlight for me, undoubtedly, was her Koala Fart branded lotion which turned out be a eucalyptus oil. The label was funny and it even showed a 💨 coming out of the koala’s butt. Australian humor at its best.

    While at the gardens, I also took the opportunity to visit an Atlas Obscura site: the Museum of Economic Botany. I spent a bit of time looking at the exhibits and admiring the nicely restored building.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/santos-muse….
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  • Alice in Adelaide

    December 12, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    My first priority after the gardens was lunch. I walked to the nearby Nanyang Cafe, a Singaporean food outlet recommended by Trixie, and had a satisfying seafood hor funn (fried thick rice noodles) and teh tarik ("pulled" tea). The food was very authentic - the noodles had the elusive wok hei (breath of the wok - a frying technique that imparts a smoky charred flavor) - and it really hit the spot.

    After lunch, I walked back towards the botanic garden and on to East Terrace to seek out an Atlas Obscura sight - a statue of Lewis Carroll's Alice. More info here: https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/alice. I also explored the parks around the East Terrace for a bit.
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  • Art Gallery of South Australia

    December 12, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    My next stop was the Art Gallery of South Australia. The highlight for me was the indigenous art displayed throughout the museum. There were two special exhibitions featuring indigenous art: one was focused on artist Vincent Namatjira, and the other was titled Tarnanthi, and it featured various indigenous artists.

    One thing I found jarring about this museum was that each room had a theme, but the theme wasn’t immediately obvious in the art on display as each collection comprised of an anachronistic mix of old, new, European influenced, and indigenous art. Apart from the indigenous art collections, I enjoyed the surrealist themed room most.
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  • Museum of Migration

    December 12, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    My last stop in town was the Museum of Migration, which houses exhibits on the various waves of migration to South Australia. After this visit, I walked over to Victoria Square to meet Trixie at the end of her workday. We took the bus home from there. That evening, we headed out for an Indian vegetarian meal.Read more

  • The Food Centre

    December 13, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    I had a leisurely morning hanging out with the dogs and harvesting green beans and raspberries from Trixie’s yard while she worked from home. As lunchtime approached, we set off for The Food Centre where Charles volunteers. The Food Centre is a community gathering place where meals and groceries are provided at low or no cost. I enjoyed sitting there, eating lunch, and getting a sense of how the place buzzes. Most of the patrons were retirees and many of them knew one another. After eating, Charles took us on a tour of the facility.

    As for lunch, we had a Christmas chicken roast, a steak sandwich, and chicken satay prepared by a Thai volunteer chef. I met many of the staff and volunteers there, including the Thai chef who hails from the Don Muang area of Bangkok where I used to work.
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  • Adelaide to Sydney

    December 13, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Qantas QF742 | ADL/SYD
    Business Class
    Boeing 737-800 | VH-VXL Charleville
    ATD/1446 | ATA/1651
    Lounge: Qantas Club

    Trixie dropped me off at ADL about an hour before my flight. I went to the Qantas Club and had a quick drink before heading to the gate. Unfortunately, this lounge faced landside, so I did not have tarmac views to enjoy.

    Upon boarding my flight, I recognized that Andrea, the lead flight attendant, was also on my flight on Saturday. She recognized me and apologized for not addressing me by name on Saturday's flight. For the rest of this flight, she addressed me by name. On this flight, she had an Asian coworker in the galley; I suspect she asked him how to pronounce my name. Regardless of how she figured out the pronunciation, I appreciate the gesture.
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  • Honolulu to Sydney

    December 13, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Qantas QF103 | SYD/HNL
    Business Class
    Airbus A330-300 | VH-QPH Noosa
    ATD/2316 | ATA/1148
    Lounge: Qantas First Lounge

    After disembarking from QF742, I took the transfer bus across the tarmac to the international terminal. Once inside the terminal, I cleared security via a dedicated lane for first and business class passengers, and then I cleared immigration via an automated gate. When I was done with these formalities, I headed for the Qantas First Lounge. I had heard many good things about this lounge, and I was excited to experience it. Entering the foyer, I first encountered a plant wall. I then took an escalator up one level to be greeted by an old school flight information display.

    The lounge decor was spectacular, with each section divided by a huge wooden frame. In a way, it reminded me of the wing fuel tanks of modern aircraft. I found it hard to believe that this lounge hadn’t been renovated in a while as the design was fresh and modern. As soon as I sat down, however, I saw immediate evidence of the age of the lounge: there were no USB outlets or universal power outlets, and there were ethernet jacks in the walls.

    My flight to HNL had been delayed by two hours, which meant I now had over four hours in the lounge. I spent the first two hours chilling at a seat with a tarmac view, and then I had a shower followed by dinner. For my meal, I had their signature salt and pepper squid, followed by a snapper dish, before finishing up with their signature pavlova. The two signature dishes were great, but the snapper wasn’t anything special.

    Overall, this lounge was a treat, and I can understand why people rave about it. The only thing I did not like was the acoustics; the lounge was unnecessarily loud because sound seemed to be amplified.

    After leaving the lounge, I made my way to Gate 9 and boarded the A330. The flight crew explained that the original two hour delay was due to a mechanical issue. We were then delayed by another 45 minutes because the ramp crew stopped work several times due to rain and risk of lightning strike. I started getting nervous that the flight would not depart before Sydney Airport's 11pm curfew, but we received special dispensation to depart.

    The flight itself was pleasant. My aisle was staffed by an enthusiastic flight attendant. He took my meal order first, which made me assume they took the orders by OneWorld status. But, he didn't address me by name. It appears as if Qantas does not utilize trays for its main meals, which made for a more personalized experience. The salmon crudo starter was great, but the plant-based ramen main was pretty mediocre with lukewarm broth and noodles that were borderline mushy. For dessert, I opted for the ice cream sandwich. The menu indicated there would be a canapé, but it wasn't served. I suspect they chose to forgo this service due to the late departure. The one service item I found curiously lacking was the lack of hand towels - neither hot nor cold towels were offered during the flight.

    After dinner, I slept for a few hours. At the start of the flight, we were asked to give our breakfast orders by filling in an order card. Breakfast was served surprisingly late at 75 minutes before arrival, which wasn’t an issue for me because I got to maximize my sleep. I wish other airlines had the confidence to serve their arrival meal this late on their flights.
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  • Home!

    December 13, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    I arrived to a rainy Honolulu at 11.45am. Jeff came by soon after.

    This was my fifth trip to Adelaide, a place with a special place in my heart thanks to the hospitality shown by Trixie and Charles as well as Ryan and Anthony. I continue to be amazed by Australia's commitment to multiculturalism, which is in evidence everywhere. I love observing the many thriving immigrant-owned businesses. On this trip, I also noted that Qantas and various venues have begun formally acknowledging the traditional custodians of the land. I loved reading and hearing these acknowledgements and I wish other countries made similar efforts. As with my past trips, I observed that “tradies” or tradespersons are highly visible (literally - their high visibility clothing is everywhere!) and respected in Australia. Many countries can do better to recognize that trades play an important role and that there is dignity to be had in all professions.

    Many thanks once again to Trixie. I appreciate all the time she has spent showing me around and helping me attain a more than superficial visitor's understanding of what makes Adelaide tick. While there is still much of the world left for me to explore, I know I will keep coming back here.
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    Trip end
    December 13, 2023