• Siewch
mars 2018

Funemployment - Japan

The Midlife Crisis Flashpacking Trip: The Last Hurrah Les mer
  • Reisens start
    16. mars 2018

    Prologue

    16. mars 2018, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Jeff had been selected to judge a diving meet in Fuji, southwest of Tokyo. Because this meet ended just before his spring break, we decided that he would stay there through his spring break and that I would meet him in Tokyo.

    On the employment front, I was waiting for a job offer to come through, so I decided this was an opportune time for a final hurrah before I returned to the working world.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Tokyo/blo…
    Les mer

  • Honolulu to Los Angeles

    16. mars 2018, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    American Airlines AA284 | HNL/LAX
    Economy Class
    Airbus A321-200 | N124AA
    ATD/1440 | ATA/2327

    As I was anticipating being employed again soon, I figured that I would need a head start in requalifying for status. I found a decent Premium Economy fare from LAX to TYO, and so I took a roundabout routing. The outbound flights has me flying eastwards HNL-LAX-DFW and then westwards to NRT. It was a long journey but it yielded a lot of redeemable miles.Les mer

  • Arrival at Tokyo Narita

    18. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    I arrived in Tokyo the day after Jeff’s meet ended, took the Narita Express to the city, and met him at City Hotel Lonestar in Shinjuku, which is also where we stayed on our first trip to Japan in 2010.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Tokyo/blo…
    Les mer

  • The opening act of the show at Robot Restaurant.
    The closing act of the show at Robot Restaurant.The entrance at Robot Restaurant.At the entrance of Robot Restaurant.The downstairs lounge at Robot Restaurant.The lounge singer and guitarist at Robot Restaurant.The downstairs lounge at Robot Restaurant.The staircase at Robot Restaurant.The staircase at Robot Restaurant.The staircase at Robot Restaurant.Scenes from the show at Robot Restaurant.Scenes from the show at Robot Restaurant.Scenes from the show at Robot Restaurant.Scenes from the show at Robot Restaurant.Scenes from the show at Robot Restaurant.Scenes from the show at Robot Restaurant.Scenes from the show at Robot Restaurant.Scenes from the show at Robot Restaurant.Scenes from the show at Robot Restaurant.Robot Restaurant in the daylight.

    Robot Restaurant

    18. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Soon after my arrival, we made our way to Robot Restaurant in nearby Kabukicho. I went to Robot Restaurant in September last year. Jeff was mildly upset that I had gone without him, so I atoned for this transgression by taking him there.

    Our evening started in the lounge area, which we entered just as the lounge singer, who was accompanied by a guitarist wearing a robot suit, completed her act. I told Jeff to check out the bathroom, which was all gold. After a few minutes of waiting, the guests were herded downstairs through an extremely gaudy stairway and seated for the floor show.

    Three of the four parts of the floor show weren’t the same as what I saw in September. The show started with an opening act featuring a parade of robots, dancers, and drummers, followed by a bizarre act of animal robots versus an invading alien race, followed by the third act known as King Robota (which was the only act that was repeated from last September), and finally a closing act once again featuring a parade of robots and dancers played to Uptown Funk and their signature “Roboto” ditty.

    Jeff’s reaction to all this? He said the whole act seemed as if it had been created by sexually repressed, ADHD-afflicted teenagers who had been given a big budget to create a cabaret. That’s why we love Tokyo. I don’t understand what is going on around me most of the time, but I am bewildered in the best possible way.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/kabukicho-r…

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Tokyo/blo…
    Les mer

  • The Godzilla statue at Hotel Gracery. I just love the placement of the kaiju poster next to it.
    Big in Japan: Jeff in the shower at City Hotel Lonestar.We just love the Yamato Transport logo.Rndom street scenes around Shinjuku.Jeff rescuing the kitten at the VR place.Jeff rescuing the kitten at the VR place.Jeff rescuing the kitten at the VR place.Urinals at the VR place.The Godzilla dessert at the Hotel Gracery.Electronic display at the Toho Cinema.The Godzilla statue at Hotel Gracery as seen from our table at the restaurant.Jeff biting into the Godzilla chocolate.Murals at the foot of the Godzilla statue at Hotel Gracery.Murals at the foot of the Godzilla statue at Hotel Gracery.The Godzilla statue at Hotel Gracery. I just love the placement of the kaiju poster next to it.The Godzilla statue at Hotel Gracery at night.View of Kabukicho from the Godzilla statue.Rndom street scenes around Shinjuku.Rndom street scenes around Shinjuku.Rndom street scenes around Shinjuku.

    Shinjuku

    19. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Jeff and I planned to head west the afternoon, but first, we needed to indulge in some more silliness.

    After breakfast at our hotel, we headed over to Hotel Gracery nearby to get a look at the Godzilla statue there. At the hotel, we found out that access to the statue is allowed from 10.30am. We thus had some time to kill. While wandering, we came across a VR center. We went in and played one VR game, which was to rescue a kitten stuck on a plank 200 meters up high. Jeff went first, he was fitted with gloves, a VR mask, and a bungee cord. Jeff isn’t afraid of heights but he did make some noises as he walked along the wobbling plank. He managed to rescue the kitten. I tried the simulation as well but I did not dare step out on the plank.

    Back at Hotel Gracery, we had dessert at the hotel cafe because a sign said that access to the statue was only for hotel guests or patrons. We ate their signature godzilla cake. After that, we went out onto the deck, took lots of photos, and pressed on a stone plate that made Godzilla roar.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/godzilla-head

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Tokyo/blo…
    Les mer

  • Spider sculpture at Roppongi.
    The view from Mori Tower.The view from Mori Tower.The view from Mori Tower.The view from Mori Tower.The view from Mori Tower.The view from Mori Tower.The view from Mori Tower.The view from Mori Tower.I was amused by this Nano Nano branded item.Jeff impaled by the spider sculpture at Roppongi.

    Roppongi

    19. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    After the Godzilla silliness, we headed to Roppongi where we met some of Jeff’s diving friends, Together, we went up the Mori Tower for a birds eye view of Tokyo. I’d been up the Tokyo Tower and the Tokyo Skytree, so this wasn’t anything new to me. But, the view of Tokyo’s sprawl is nonetheless impressive.

    After this, we bade goodbye to Jeff’s diving friends and made our way to Tokyo Station to catch a westbound shinkansen.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Tokyo/blo…
    Les mer

  • My first ever shinkansen ride rolling into Tokyo Station.

    Omihachiman

    19. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ 11 °C

    While looking at a map researching places to visit between Tokyo and Kyoto, my eyes honed in on Lake Biwa. Much to my surprise, I learned that one of Japan’s famed cat islands was on that lake. I was wary about such places; I knew that the most famous cat island in Japan was swarming with cats while their human population was in decline, and I suspected that visiting such a place may be somewhat depressing. Nevertheless, I researched further, and found that Okishima Island still has quite a few human residents - about 350, apparently descended from a band of banished samurai - and that the place wasn’t overrun with cats. I knew we had to make a pit stop there.

    On the afternoon of March 19th, Jeff and I set off from Tokyo station on a shinkansen bound for Maibara, where we were to transfer to a local train bound for Omihachiman. Believe it or not, even though this is my seventh visit (including long layovers) to Japan, I had never taken a shinkansen. During the ride, I was surprised that the train never really left urban areas throughout the two hours that we sped west through Honshu.

    We arrived at Omihachiman just before sundown and found our hotel easily. It was clear we weren’t in an area that saw many foreign travelers. Only one hotel staff spoke English, and the hotel restaurant didn’t even have an English menu. We trekked in the rain to the nearby convenience store and bought soba noodles, soup, and sushi (for me) which we ate in our room. After eating, I went downstairs for a refreshing soak in the hotel’s onsen.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Shiga/Omi…
    Les mer

  • Jeff with two cats on his lap.
    Okishima Island as seen from the ferry.The ferry between Horikiri and Okishima Island.Jeff on the ferry.The main village at Okishima Island.The shrine at Okishima Island.Jeff at an orange grove.The lunch ladies heading to the school.The main village at Okishima Island.The main village at Okishima Island.Kitty love.Kitty love.Kitty love.Kitty love.Kitty love.Kitty love.Kitty love.Kitty love.Kitty love.The school children waving goodbye to visitors who were on our ferry back to Horikiri.

    Okishima Island

    20. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ 8 °C

    In the morning, we checked out early, left our bags at reception, and walked across the street to a bus stop where we waited in the rain for our bus. It turned out that the hotel receptionist hadn’t given us the correct information for the bus, so we went back to the hotel lobby and hung out there for about 40 minutes before heading out again to catch the correct bus.

    The bus to Horikiri port took about 30 minutes. During the ride, we grew more and more concerned as we watched our fare creep up in real time on the screen at the front of the bus. We paid 710 yen each for this ride.

    At Horikiri, a ferry was waiting to take us across the lake to Okishima Island. Apart from a worker, we were the only passengers on that ferry. The rain had stopped by then, but we weren’t optimistic about seeing many kitties as we figured they would be hiding from the wet and cold.

    Arriving at the island, we first made our way to the local shrine which was perched on the side of a hill. We didn’t see any cats en route. The village itself was sleepy; all we saw were a handful of elderly people and some workers who appeared to be working on a soil stabilization project. After the shrine, we headed up the hillside for a bit to get a view of the island. Much of the hillside was used as a cemetery.

    After descending back down the hill, we walked through the village along the lakefront. There, we saw our first cat, but it ran away from us. After the inauspicious start, though, it was nonstop kitty love from then on. One grey and white female came to us for some petting. After giving her some love, we carried on down the lakefront and encountered an orange and white male. We gave him some love, and then he followed us as we carried on down the lakefront. Some more kitties emerged after that. I was surprised to see an elementary school on the island. The recess bell rang and we saw about a half dozen students file out. At the school, we heard meowing and a black and white male came out and made a beeline for us. He was the friendliest of the lot; he even let Jeff carry him. In all, we interacted with six cats. We also got to witness a neat slice of life on the island - we saw the lunch ladies delivering lunch to the school, the local postman cycle past, and various people tending their vegetable gardens. After lots of kitty love, we reluctantly made our way back to the pier and took a ferry back.

    There were quite a few people on the ferry this time. As we departed, we saw the schoolkids lined up on the lakefront waving flags. We think that a delegation had visited the school and they departed on the same ferry as we did.

    Back at Horikiri, we initially walked to the nearby bus stop, but some people told us to go to a microbus that was waiting at the pier. We confirmed with the driver that he was heading to Omihachiman, and soon after he set off with just us and one schoolgirl in the bus. We were concerned about the fare; behind the driver, we saw a sign that had 100 yen, 200 yen, 1,000 yen, and 2,000 yen written on it. The rest of the script was in kanji. I worried about paying 2,000 yen each for this ride. Along the way, the bus driver rattled off Japanese words at us, and he and the schoolgirl both laughed. I think he was saying words that he thought we might know. Finally, he said a word we knew - tamagotchi - and he and the girl laughed even more when our faces lit up. They were clearly having a laugh at our expense but we didn’t mind at all.

    When we got back to Omihachiman, we were relieved to discover that the fare was only 200 yen. We bought some food from the convenience store, scarfed it down, retrieved our bags, and took the train to our next adventure - Kyoto.

    I authored an Atlas Obscura entry for Okishima Island:
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/okishima-is…

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Shiga/Omi…
    Les mer

  • Big in Japan: Ryokan Shimizu in Kyoto.
    Ryokan Shimizu in Kyoto.Ryokan Shimizu in Kyoto.Big in Japan: Ryokan Shimizu in Kyoto.Big in Japan: Ryokan Shimizu in Kyoto.Our vegetarian dinner after arriving in Kyoto.Our vegetarian dinner after arriving in Kyoto.

    Arrival in Kyoto

    20. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    Before arriving in Kyoto, I was somewhat overwhelmed by the sheer number of sites listed on the Lonely Planet, as well as the effort it would take to cover the distance between them. Fortunately, our ryokan in Kyoto provided resources to help us whittle down our list and make our way between them.

    After leaving Omihachiman, we made our way to Kyoto via the local train. It took about 40 minutes to get to Kyoto station. Exiting the station, it took about 15 minutes walk in the rain to get to Ryokan Shimizu, our accommodation for the next three nights. After checking in, we found a cheat sheet on the information stand detailing several suggested itineraries for sightseeing and how to get between them. That made things a whole lot easier for us. We took it easy that afternoon, dined at a vegetarian restaurant nearby, and then called it a night.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Kyoto/Kyo…
    Les mer

  • Kinkakuji.
    Kinkakuji.Kinkakuji.Kinkakuji.Kinkakuji.Kinkakuji.Kinkakuji.Kinkakuji.

    Kinkakuji

    21. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    For our first full day in Kyoto, we decided to follow Ryokan Shimizu's suggested "greatest hits" route traveling between three sites by bus. It was raining when we woke up, and the rain was forecasted to last all day, so I put on my raincoat and my spare shoes. We walked to Kyoto station, bought a one day bus pass for 600 yen each, and boarded route 205 for our first destination of the day - Kinkakuji, also known as the Golden Temple - and hit a snag immediately. After two stops, the English recorded announcement on the bus informed us that the next stop would be the last on that route. We'd boarded the correct bus route but in the wrong direction! We got off the bus, crossed the street, and boarded another 205 bus headed the other direction.

    It took 45 minutes to get to Kinkakuji. After alighting the bus, we walked to the temple along with a swarm of other people from the bus, and we were dismayed to see a horde of people - many recently disembarked from tour buses - and a sea of umbrellas in front of us. We paid the entrance fee and followed the directional signs. The temple itself was pretty, and it was set in the middle of a lake. The grounds were really pretty. But, the crowds and the umbrellas spoiled the whole experience somewhat.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/rokuon-ji-t…

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Kyoto/Kyo…
    Les mer

  • Ginkakuji.
    Ginkakuji.Ginkakuji.Ginkakuji.Ginkakuji.Ginkakuji.Ginkakuji.Ginkakuji.Ginkakuji.Ginkakuji.Ginkakuji.Ginkakuji.Ginkakuji.Ginkakuji.On the path leading to Ginkakuji.On the path leading to Ginkakuji.On the path leading to Ginkakuji.

    Ginkakuji

    21. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    The next stop was Ginkakuji, or Silver Temple, a short 20 minute bus ride away. I liked this monument a lot better than the Golden Temple. It was far less crowded, and the grounds were simply spectacular. The temple itself wasn't silver, but we overheard a guide telling his charges that the temple appears silver when moonlight shines on it.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Kyoto/Kyo…
    Les mer

  • The Path of Philosophy.
    Cherry blossoms along the Path of Philosophy.Cherry blossoms along the Path of Philosophy.Cherry blossoms along the Path of Philosophy.Scenes along the Path of Philosophy.Scenes along the Path of Philosophy.Scenes along the Path of Philosophy.Scenes along the Path of Philosophy.Honen-In.Honen-In.Honen-In.Honen-In.Honen-In.Honen-In.Honen-In.Honen-In.

    Path of Philisophy & Honen-In

    21. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    After exiting Ginkakuji, we saw a treelined path alongside a stream and we decided to walk along it. The walk was pretty and atmospheric. About 20 minutes into the walk, I realized that we had stumbled onto the Path of Philosophy without knowing it. Sadly, I didn't get any epiphanies or become any wiser while walking that path.

    We tried seeing a couple of shrines just off the path but they were closed. Close to the end of the path, we diverted to a road parallel to the path and stumbled across Honen-In, a beautiful temple set among pine trees.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/honenin-temple

    After exploring that temple, we made our way back to Ginkakuji, had a quick bite, and took bus route 100 for our next destination.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Kyoto/Kyo…
    Les mer

  • Heian-Jingu.
    Heian-Jingu.Heian-Jingu.Heian-Jingu.Heian-Jingu.Heian-Jingu.Heian-Jingu.

    Heian-Jingu

    21. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    The advantage of riding on a bus pass is that one can disembark when one sees something interesting, and we did just that when we saw Heian-Jingu, a massive, brightly painted temple with a massive torii gate nearby. We explored that temple before heading to our final stop for the day, Kiyomizu Temple. En route, the bus passed through Gion, the famed geisha district. We decided not to stop there.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Kyoto/Kyo…
    Les mer

  • Kiyomizu.
    Kiyomizu.Kiyomizu.Kiyomizu.Kiyomizu.Kiyomizu.Kiyomizu.Kiyomizu.Kiyomizu.Kiyomizu.Kiyomizu.Kiyomizu.Kiyomizu.Kiyomizu.Kiyomizu.The massive cemetery at Kiyomizu.Scenes from around Kiyomizu.Scenes from around Kiyomizu.Scenes from around Kiyomizu.

    Kiyomizu

    21. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Kiyomizu was yet another grand temple complex, this time perched on the top of a hill. To get to the temple, one has to walk up a road, walk past a pagoda, through a massive wooden shrine, and then walk along a path to a pagoda set away from the main temple.

    During the walk up the hill, small hailstones briefly rained down on us, but they weren't bad enough to deter us from continuing our hike up the hill. At this site, there were many people - mostly women, some men - in traditional dress. I was disappointed when I realized most of them were tourists wearing rented costumes.

    The first sight we saw at Kiyomizu was a pagoda, quickly followed by a very grand but dark wooden structure. After walking through this, we walked along a path leading to another pagoda on the hill. Along the way, we diverted off to a forest path and encountered a cat meowing pitifully. It looked as if the cat was domesticated but somehow found itself in the forest. The meows were heartbreaking but there wasn't anything we could do.

    After viewing the pagoda, we encountered a huge cemetery. So huge, in fact, that I could not capture the whole site in one photograph.

    After visiting Kiyomizu, we made our way down the hill, piled onto a bus bound for Kyoto station, and made our way back to our ryokan. We were both relieved to be warm and dry again. We ate dinner at a nearby Italian restaurant that evening. While walking to the restaurant, we encountered some more hail.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/kiyomizuder…

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Kyoto/Kyo…
    Les mer

  • The torii gates at the Inari Shrine.
    Inari Shrine.The torii gates at the Inari Shrine.The torii gates at the Inari Shrine.Inari Shrine.Little torii gates at the Inari Shrine.Little torii gates at the Inari Shrine.The torii gates at the Inari Shrine.Inari Shrine.Inari Shrine.Inari Shrine.Inari Shrine.The view from the top of the Inari Shrine.The torii gates at the Inari Shrine.The torii gates at the Inari Shrine.Inari Shrine.Jeff and a random girl marching in step.Inari Shrine.Inari Shrine.Inari Shrine.

    Inari Shrine

    22. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    We spent our second and last full day in Kyoto navigating by subway. Thankfully, the rain had stopped, although we did encounter small patches of rain throughout the day.

    Our first stop of the day was the Inari Shrine, which is the iconic shrine with thousands of brightly colored torii gates. I hadn't researched Inari Shrine much, and so I was surprised to find that the shrine took up a big chunk of a large hill and that there were trails going up. Along we way, we noted that there were many kitsune (fox) statues all over. Apparently, Inari is the god of rice, and kitsune are the protectors. The trails were mostly covered with torii, with lots of little shrines all over with little torii and kitsune statues. Jeff the geek counted the torii on the trail and he gave up - there were over 3,000.

    The walk up and down the hill took most of the morning. We were both hungry by the time we got back down to Inari station, so we bought lunch at a convenience store and ate while sheltering from a short downpour.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/fushimi-ina…

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Kyoto/Kyo…
    Les mer

  • Tofukuji.
    Tofukuji.Tofukuji.Tofukuji.Tofukuji.Tofukuji.Tofukuji.Tofukuji.Tofukuji.Tofukuji.Tofukuji.Tofukuji.Tofukuji.Tofukuji.Tofukuji.Tofukuji.Tofukuji.Tofukuji.

    Tofukuji

    22. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Our second stop that day was Tofukuji, a large temple structure best known for its gardens. The gardens are framed by a couple of wooden bridges, with beautiful grounds surrounding the bridges. It was a pity that the spring blossoms hadn't bloomed yet. I am sure this garden would also be beautiful in the fall too. The temple structures at Tofukuji were also very impressive. The best part? There were barely any tourists there!

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Kyoto/Kyo…
    Les mer

  • Arashiyama Bamboo Grove.
    Arashiyama Bamboo Grove.Railway track next to the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove.Tenryuji.Tenryuji.Tenryuji.

    Arashiyama & Tenryuji

    22. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    After Tofukuji, we made our way back to Kyoto station, switched subway lines, and headed to the Arashiyama area. Arashiyama is best known for its bamboo grove. To be honest, we weren't too impressed as we have a beautiful bamboo forest on one of our favorite hiking trails back home. After the bamboo forest, we briefly explored the nearby Tenryuji temple before heading back to Kyoto station.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/tenryu-ji-s…

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/sagano-bamb…

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Kyoto/Kyo…
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  • Honganji.
    Advertisement on the Kyoto subway.Honganji.Honganji.Honganji.Honganji.Honganji.

    Honganji

    22. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    After arriving at Kyoto station, we made a beeline for Higashi Honganji temple. We had seen this impressive looking temple while walking to and from our ryokan and we wanted to explore it. The grounds were indeed impressive. After this, we called it a day. I didn't have any desire to see more as we were somewhat templed-out after two days of visiting religious sites.

    That evening, we went to Veg Out, a vegan restaurant located on the side of a river. I had an unusual green curry risotto fusion dish, which I loved.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Kyoto/Kyo…
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  • We spotted a Totoro in Koyasan. We offered them an umbrella.
    Big in Japan: Jeff had to watch for low roofs.Monks walking past us at Koyasan.Scenes from around Koyasan.Nyonindo, which is one of the places on the outskirts of the town where women were allowed to stay.Scenes from around Koyasan.Scenes from around Koyasan.Scenes from around Koyasan.Scenes from around Koyasan.Scenes from around Koyasan.Scenes from around Koyasan.The Danjo Garan complex.A rotating wheel at the Danjo Garan complex.A rotating wheel at the Danjo Garan complex.The Danjo Garan complex.The Danjo Garan complex.The Danjo Garan complex.The Danjo Garan complex.The Danjo Garan complex.

    Koyasan

    23. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    Before embarking on this trip, I suspected (correctly, as it turned out), that Kyoto would be overrun with tourists. I knew I wanted to experience a culturally significant site without too many tourists, and I also wanted to experience shokubo (temple lodging). Scanning through travelblog.org, I found that pretty much everyone who had blogged about Mt. Koya had a positive experience there. I decided to investigate further.

    From my initial research, I learned that Koyasan is the spiritual center for Shingon Esoteric Buddhism, and that it has over 120 temples, with a significant number of them offering lodging. The cheaper lodgings seemed to already be fully booked. After some research, I settled on Jokiin, which appeared to be centrally located and had very good reviews. The price was a little steep at USD257 including dinner and breakfast, but it still wasn’t among the priciest ones by far. I took a deep breath and booked a room.

    We left Kyoto at 8.30am on the rapid express train to Osaka. It only took about 30 minutes to get to Osaka Station. There, we transferred to a subway line to get to Namba station, where Nankai, a private railway company, operates from. We each bought a two day pass which included return train journeys and unlimited bus rides within Koya, all operated by Nankai. We calculated that our cost saving with this pass would only be minimal.

    Prior to October 2017, getting to Koyasan used to be faster and more straightforward. A typhoon damaged part of the railway line, so the train now terminates at Hashimoto, and passengers bound for Koyasan are transferred to a bus. The hourlong bus journey took us up winding mountain roads before depositing us at a station. There, we transferred to a local bus to get to Jokiin. We arrived a little past noon. The journey from Kyoto took over three hours in all.

    At Jokiin, we looked for a reception area but found none. We asked a passing worker for help, at which time he opened a sliding door and a friendly woman came out, took our bags, and told us to return at 3pm. As we had a few hours to kill, we walked into town, ate some lunch, looked at some of the temples, and then found a nice hiking trail through pine forests. The short trail ended at Nyonindo. Up until the middle of the Edo period, women were not allowed into the sacred part of Koyasan; they could not go beyond certain points on the outskirts of town. Nyonindo was one of the places where women could stay.

    After looking at Nyonindo, we walked downhill back towards the center of town, explored a few more temples, and checked in for our stay at Jokiin. When we got there, the reception door was open, and a different woman checked us in, showed us around, and explained the schedule of events.

    After checking in, we walked to the nearby Danjo Garan complex, a big, imposing complex with several stupas, halls, and other structures. As Koyasan is at high altitude, it was cold.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Admin/Blog/edit-entr…
    Les mer

  • The entrance at Jokiin.
    Our room at Jokiin.Our room at Jokiin.Our dinner at Jokiin.One tray of our dinner, containing a hot soup, tofu with wasabi, noodles in soup, and pickles.The second tray of our dinner, containing tempura, simmered vegetables, and grilled vegetables.Fruit to finish off our dinner.Our breakfast at Jokiin - miso soup, a tofu patty, and pickles.Jeff enjoying our dinner at Jokiin.Big in Japan: Jeff hit his head on this beam.The frost covered plants in the courtyard at Jokiin in the early morning.The frost covered plants in the courtyard at Jokiin in the early morning.The courtyard at Jokiin.The grounds at Jokiin.The grounds at Jokiin.The ceremonial prayer room where we gathered in the morning.The ceremonial prayer room where we gathered in the morning.The ceremonial prayer room where we gathered in the morning.

    Temple Stay at Jokiin

    23. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    After Danjo Garan, we headed back to Jokiin. Arriving back at Jokiin, we saw two monks chanting on a balcony next to the reception area. This was oddly reminiscent of my stay at a convent in Ruteng, Indonesia where I returned after a day of sightseeing to the sound of singing nuns.

    Shokubo lodging includes dinner. At Jokiin, all meals are shojin ryori (Buddhist vegan, no onions and garlic), supposedly prepared by the monks. When reserving the room, I was given a choice of a one-, two-, or three-tray meal. I chose the two-tray meal and hoped it would be enough.

    Our meal was served to us in our room by a guy I suspected wasn't actually a monk, as his head wasn't shaved (he wore a head covering, though) and he wasn't present at the prayer ceremony the next morning. I was pleased when he didn't offer us alcohol; I'd read about guests at other lodgings being offered alcohol with their meals, and I thought that was odd for a Buddhist vegan meal. The meal was beautifully presented, delicious, and very filling. I suspect many meat eaters would willingly give up meat if they could eat like this every day. We sat on cushions on the tatami mat floor to eat our meal.

    After dinner, a monk came and set up our mattresses on the floor. We chilled a little, then went to the on site onsen. Public bathing is the only option at many of the lodgings. Jokiin did have one shower room, but it was only available for use in the morning.

    After a comfortable sleep, we woke up early and got ready for the 6am morning prayer ceremony. It was cold and there was frost on the vegetation. We went into a beautiful, lantern-lined room and sat in silence as the head priest and four monks chanted for about 30 minutes. Halfway while the chanting was going on, one monk distributed information sheets inviting guests to come up to the altar and offer incense. The sheets also gave instructions on how to do it.

    After the chanting was done, the priest, who introduced himself as Kato, gave us a short history in English of Koyasan and Jokiin, told us about Shingon Buddhism, and explained the features of the altar. He then guided us on a walk around the altar. I only had my iPhone with me; I took a few pictures, but I wanted better quality shots, so I went back to my room to grab my camera only to find the prayer room door shut when I returned.

    Our next activity was breakfast in a communal room. There were about 20 guests in all. While we were eating, our bedding was cleared from our rooms. The message was unspoken but clear - they didn't want us hanging around before check in time and after breakfast. Part of me couldn't help but wonder if the temples opened themselves to travelers out of economic necessity. I also wondered whether, with only five monks (that I was aware of) on site, they had enough resources to prepare the meals themselves, or if the meals were catered. I also wondered how having to cater to guests impacted their daily routines and religious activities, and what their routines would be if they didn’t operate a lodging.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Wakayama/…
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  • Okunion Cemetery.
    Okunion Cemetery.Okunion Cemetery.Okunion Cemetery.Okunion Cemetery.Okunion Cemetery.Okunion Cemetery.Okunion Cemetery.Okunion Cemetery.Okunion Cemetery.Okunion Cemetery.Okunion Cemetery.Okunion Cemetery.Okunion Cemetery.Okunion Cemetery.Okunion Cemetery.Okunion Cemetery.Okunion Cemetery.The Nissan-sponsored part of the Okunoin Cemetery.One of the more interesting contemporary sights at the Okunion Cemetery.

    Okunoin Cemetary

    24. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

    After breakfast, we checked out and left our bags at reception and walked to Okunoin, a cemetery on the eastern end of town. The cemetery was beautiful, green, and peaceful. We strolled around, checked out the shrines, tombstones, and statues. One of the more interesting things we saw were structures (I'm not sure if they were actual graves) with corporate logos on them, including Panasonic and Nissan. Do they bury their retirees here? I even heard Japanese visitors sniggering as they walked past these structures.

    After Okunoin, we walked out to the main road, hailed a bus back to the center of town, ate some lunch, collected our bags, and then made our way back to Osaka and onward to Nagoya.

    I really enjoyed Koyasan. It is a beautiful and atmospheric place, and it seemed to attract mostly younger, independent travelers seeking to immerse themselves in this spiritual place. We didn't see any large groups of tourists. I suspect this place isn't on the main tourist trail because it takes some effort to get there, and also because there aren't large hotels or restaurants that can handle large tour groups.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/okunoin-cem…

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Wakayama/…
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  • International Design Center, Nagoya.
    International Design Center, Nagoya.International Design Center, Nagoya.International Design Center, Nagoya.International Design Center, Nagoya.International Design Center, Nagoya.International Design Center, Nagoya.International Design Center, Nagoya.

    Nagoya

    24. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    After departing Koyasan, we made our way to Nagoya by a combination of bus, rapid train, subway and then shinkansen. We got in to Nagoya in the late afternoon. Jeff was scheduled to fly home from Nagoya the next evening, and I was scheduled to fly home from Tokyo Haneda a few hours before him. My plan was to fly from Nagoya to Haneda, spend a few hours in Tokyo, and then depart from Haneda.

    Jeff and I didn't do much in Nagoya that day. We walked to the International Design Center, enjoyed the cool architecture there, had dinner, walked around the Sakae area a little, and then called it a night. On his own the next day, Jeff explored Nagoya Castle, the aquarium, and the Museum of the Antarctic.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Tokyo/blo…
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  • Mt Fuji viewed inflight from JL200.
    Mt Fuji viewed inflight from JL200.Boarding pass for JL200.

    Nagoya to Tokyo Haneda

    25. mars 2018, Japan ⋅ 9 °C

    Japan Airlines JL200 | NGO/HND
    Business Class (Domestic)
    Boeing 737-800 | JA339J
    ATD/0749 | ATA/0837
    Lounge: Sakura Lounge

    ==============================================================

    I chose to fly from Nagoya because I wanted to see Mt. Fuji from the air. The ticket was about the same price as a reserved shinkansen seat. Japan Airlines only offers two flights each day on that route, so I had to take their 7.45am flight. I left the hotel at around 5.45am, and I got to the airport within one hour. During the flight, I enjoyed some great views of Mt. Fuji.

    I landed at Haneda airport around 8.45am. After disembarking, I made my way to the International Terminal where I deposited my larger backpack in a coin locker. You have to love Japan for making things so convenient. I then made my way to the monorail station.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Japan/Tokyo/blo…
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