• Siewch
sept. – oct. 2023

Hungry Like The Wolf

Singapore + Tracing Duran Duran’s Video Sites + My 13th Layover in Tokyo En savoir plus
  • Début du voyage
    22 septembre 2023
    JA874J at the gate in HNL.
    My curry and mochiko chicken snack at the Sakura Lounge.Menu for JL71.The chicken option on JL71.Pre arrival snack on JL71.My boarding pass for JL71.Route of JL71 per my FlightRadar24 app.

    Honolulu to Tokyo Haneda

    22 septembre 2023, États Unis ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Japan Airlines JL71 | HNL/HND
    Premium Economy Class
    Boeing 787-9 | JA874J
    ATD/1625 | ATA/1925+1
    Lounge: Sakura Lounge

    This was my third time on JL71 in six months; I'd traveled to Singapore in April and May for family reasons, so there was lots of deva ju. Thankfully, the menu changed since my last flight.En savoir plus

  • My caviar snack at the JAL Salon in the Sakura Lounge.
    The caviar itself weighed 4 grams and it was presented in a small and very shallow glass jar.The caviar itself weighed 4 grams and it was presented in a small and very shallow glass jar.My caviar atop the smoked salmon, onions, and cream cheese, piled atop a blini.The main level of the Sakura First Class Lounge.My sushi snack at the Sakura Lounge.My noodle snack at the Sakura Lounge.JA607J awaiting us at Gate 111 in Haneda.We were parked next to an ANA B787 featuring special Pokemon livery.We were parked next to an ANA B787 featuring special Pokemon livery.My exit row seat on JL35. The seat next to me remained empty.My legroom on JL35.Pre-arrival breakfast was curry without rice. It was an odd choice for breakfast.My boarding pass for JL35.Routing of JL35 as captured on my FlightRadar24 app.

    Tokyo Haneda to Singapore

    24 septembre 2023, Japon ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Japan Airlines JL35 | HND/SIN
    Economy Class
    Boeing 767-300ER | JA607J
    ATD/0010 | ATA/0610
    Lounge: Sakura First Class Lounge

    I spent my 4.5 hour layover at the Sakura First Class Lounge. Prior to this flight, I read online that the JAL Salon on the upper level of the lounge had a limited time special featuring sushi caviar. I was lucky to travel to Tokyo before the promotion ended on September 30th. At the bar upstairs, I asked for the caviar special, and I got a small tin of caviar, smoked salmon, chopped onions, cream cheese, and three blinis. I'm not exactly sure what "sushi caviar" is but it was a treat nonetheless.

    After consuming this special treat, I spent the remainder of my transit downstairs at the JAL Table section of the lounge. There, I had my usual sushi and noodles.

    The flight to SIN was pleasant. I had an exit row seat with plenty of legroom, and an empty seat next to me to boot! A rather bizarre breakfast of curry without rice was served two hours before arrival.
    En savoir plus

  • Hello, Great Grandma

    26 septembre 2023, Singapour ⋅ 🌩️ 32 °C

    Back in May after my father's funeral, I set out one humid morning armed with a map provided by my cousin Hercules to find my great grandmother's grave in the historic Bukit Brown cemetery. Unfortunately, x didn't mark the spot, and after a lot of traipsing around overgrown graves, I gave up. More info here: https://findpenguins.com/69wt4noajyp9d/footprin…

    Soon after that failed quest, I joined a Facebook group for Bukit Brown and I put up a post asking for help locating the grave. The amateur historians on that site immediately found it. My cousin was also on that Facebook group, and he volunteered to take me to the grave. Then, someone else from the group named Grace piped in and said that Chia Swee Peck Neo was her great great grandmother. After some investigating, we established that Grace is my mother's father's brother's son's son's daughter (I’ll just refer to her as my distant niece; it’ll take too much brain damage to try and qualify our exact relationship!). She had visited the grave more recently than my cousin and she volunteered to join us.

    On the afternoon of September 26th, Hercules, Grace, and I met at Tan Kah Kee MRT Station and made our way via Grab to Bukit Brown. Because of construction in the area, the online map was rather confusing and the poor Grab driver had to make a big circuit before depositing us at the cemetery entrance. From there, it was a 15 minute walk to the iconic landmark grave with the statues of Sikh guards. Back in May, I spent quite a bit of time looking in the area uphill from that grave as Hercules had marked that area as the location of our great grandmother's grave.

    Once we hit the grave with the Sikh guard statues, Grace was able to quickly locate the grave, which turned out to be a little bit further west from the spot Hercules had marked for me. When we found it, it was illuminated by a sunbeam; it was as if my great grandmother was telling us she was happy we came to visit. We paid our respects by bowing to her three times per Chinese tradition, and then we examined the various features of the grave. I specifically looked for my mother's name on the right arm of the tomb. My mother was an infant when her grandmother died, and she and my late Aunty Nancy are listed as descendants on the tomb. When it was time to depart, we again bowed to our ancestor three times before leaving.

    While we were at Bukit Brown, we also looked at some signboards explaining the symbols on these graves, as well as a bit of the history of the cemetery, which has its roots in colonial times. I learned a lot from the signboards.

    This was a great day out and I cannot thank my cousin and niece enough for taking the time to help me get a little closer to my roots.

    A few words about my great grandmother:

    - Her name was Mrs. Lim Koh Seng nee Madam Chia Swee Peck Neo.

    - She married into the Lim family, which we suspect were a well-to-do Peranakan family.

    - She passed away on August 22, 1935.

    - Her obituary in the Straits Times said she was 79 years old when she died, but her burial record said she was 76. Her age on her tombstone is a little eroded, but it looks like it says 76. Either way, it must have been rare to live to that age at that time.

    - She had six sons and two daughters listed on her tombstone, but her obituary listed seven daughters-in-law and three sons-in-law. I later learned that only living descendants are listed on the tombs, and that one daughter predeceased her, which explains why there are two daughters and three sons-in-law listed. I also learned that one son had two wives, which explains the additional daughter-in-law.

    - Her tombstone says she had 13 grandsons and 19 granddaughters, but her obituary said she had 44 grandchildren. I can’t account for the discrepancy. I shudder to think that she may have buried as many as 12 grandchildren in addition to the daughter she outlived. That must have been heartbreaking. There is also a pomegranate adornment on her grave which symbolizes having had many descendants.

    - The Chinese characters at the top of her headstone indicate that her ancestral village is in Haicheng County in Fujian.

    - Her tomb adornments include what I think are inkwells or maybe scrolls, which in turn suggest that she was educated. That must have been unusual for women of that era.

    - I'm not aware of what religion she followed, if any. I later learned that her daughter's tomb features a prominent cross.

    - Other tomb adornments included two tomb guardians (one male and one female), and a small shrine on the side to an earth deity.

    - The markings on the tomb were in both English and Chinese. I'm not sure if she spoke English, but her offspring most certainly did.

    Post-Publication Note (December 2023): My cousin and niece uncovered more distant relatives and they provided us with what is believed to be a photo of my great grandmother's funeral in 1935, as well as a photo of her. I've added them to this entry. One of the Bukit Brown enthusiasts also published a blog on her: https://mymindisrojak.blogspot.com/2023/06/mrs-…
    En savoir plus

  • The CapitaSpring building.
    My mother and sister on the 17th floor garden.The rooftop garden on the 51st floor.The rooftop garden on the 51st floor.The rooftop garden on the 51st floor.The rooftop garden on the 51st floor.The rooftop garden on the 51st floor.The rooftop garden on the 51st floor.The rooftop garden on the 51st floor.The rooftop garden on the 51st floor.The rooftop garden on the 51st floor.The rooftop garden on the 51st floor.The rooftop garden on the 51st floor.The 17th floor garden space.The 17th floor garden space.Our view from the 51st floor.Our view from the 51st floor.Our view from the 51st floor - Marina Bay Sands and Gardens By The Bay.The OCBC Center was the tallest building in the 1970s.

    CapitaSpring Rooftop Garden

    27 septembre 2023, Singapour ⋅ 🌩️ 31 °C

    CapitaSpring is a rooftop garden located on the 51st floor of a building in the financial district. There are also sky gardens on the 17th, 18th, and 19th floors. I had a pleasant few hours exploring the grounds with my mother, sister, and brother-in-law. I also took Jeff here to enjoy the city views when he arrived in Singapore a few days later. Access is free.En savoir plus

  • Orchid display at the National Orchid Garden.
    Family photo at the orchid garden. Photo credit: A. Lee.Papilionanda Barack and Michelle Obama.Rather fittingly, Papilionanda Mike and Karen Pence was not blooming.A pitcher plant on display at the National Orchid Garden.Orchid display at the National Orchid Garden.Orchid display at the National Orchid Garden.Orchid display at the National Orchid Garden.Orchid display at the National Orchid Garden.Orchid display at the National Orchid Garden.Orchid display at the National Orchid Garden.Orchid display at the National Orchid Garden.Orchid display at the National Orchid Garden.Orchid display at the National Orchid Garden.Orchid display at the National Orchid Garden.Orchid display at the National Orchid Garden.Orchid display at the National Orchid Garden.Orchid display at the National Orchid Garden.Orchid display at the National Orchid Garden.

    National Orchid Garden

    28 septembre 2023, Singapour ⋅ 🌩️ 31 °C

    I drove out to Changi Airport early in the morning to collect Jeff, after which I brought him to my mother's condo to meet her for the first time. After that, we trooped out to the National Orchid Garden at the Singapore Botanical Gardens, where Jeff met my sister, my brother-in-law, and my niece for the first time. It was a sweltering hot day, and I was very relieved to get into the air conditioned greenhouse.

    After the visit to the Botanic Gardens, we drove to Ghim Moh Hawker Center where Jeff had his first taste of Singapore street food in the midst of a housing estate.
    En savoir plus

  • A monitor lizard foraging in the forest.
    Jeff making the sleeping grass close their leaves. Go to the 11s to the end mark to see what I mean.We conquered Singapore's tallest summit on this hike.Jeff crossing the historic railway bridge.Granite quarry.Granite quarry.Jeff at the granite quarry.Macaques on the trail.

    Bukit Timah Nature Reserve

    28 septembre 2023, Singapour ⋅ 🌩️ 33 °C

    Our goal on Jeff's first day was to keep him awake all day so he could have an easier adjustment to the time zone. After eating lunch, we deposited my mother at her condo for her afternoon nap, and we set off on the hike to the Bukit Timah Nature Reserve. We first walked to the granite quarry, then we hiked up the trail from Dairy Farm, hit the summit, and walked down the road before taking the park connector back to Rail Mall. After the hike, we cooled down in the condo pool before enjoying a home cooked dinner.En savoir plus

  • Feeding the goats at Hay Dairies. Photo credit: A. Lee.
    A statue at the entrance of Hay Dairies.Jeff feeding goats.Feeding the goats at Hay Dairies.Feeding the goats at Hay Dairies.Feeding the goats at Hay Dairies.Feeding the goats at Hay Dairies.Feeding the goats at Hay Dairies.Feeding the goats at Hay Dairies.Feeding the goats at Hay Dairies.The young goats were kept in this pen.Feeding the goats at Hay Dairies.Feeding the goats at Hay Dairies.Goats lining up for milking.Goats at the milking station.The milk is piped from the goats' udders to this tank.

    Hay Dairies

    29 septembre 2023, Singapour ⋅ 🌩️ 29 °C

    After breakfast, I drove Jeff and my mother up to the northern end of Singapore, where we met my sister, brother-in-law, and niece at the Hay Dairies, Singapore's only goat milk dairy.

    We had an enjoyable time feeding the goats and watching them getting milked. It was very interesting to see how the lactating goats were milked mechanically. Poor Dora was a little frightened by the goats. Jeff and I were also saddened to observe that these goats were probably kept in their pens all the time. We have a small herd of goats up the street where we live, and we wished the goats in the dairy could have as good a life as our neighborhood goats have.En savoir plus

  • The scarecrow at Bollywood Farm sports a fancy sari.
    Bollywood Farm.Bollywood Farm.Bollywood Farm.Bollywood Farm.Bollywood Farm.Bollywood Farm.Bollywood Farm.Bollywood Farm.Bollywood Farm.The cool toilet at Bollywood Farm.The cool toilet at Bollywood Farm.The cool toilet at Bollywood Farm.At lunch at the Poison Ivy Cafe.My nasi lemak lunch at the Poison Ivy Cafe.My mother's mee soto at the Poison Ivy Cafe.Jeff's vegetable bowl at the Poison Ivy Cafe.The decor at the Poison Ivy Cafe.The decor at the Poison Ivy Cafe.

    Bollywood Farm

    29 septembre 2023, Singapour ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    After the goat farm, we bade goodbye to my sister and her family, and I drove my mother and Jeff to the nearby Bollywood Farms. Tina, the PR lead there, took us for a short walk around the grounds, and then we had lunch at the Poison Ivy Cafe. The cafe was an interesting space with "crunchy" messages painted onto the walls. I had a nasi lemak, Jeff had a vegetable bowl, and my mother had a mee soto. Most of the ingredients used for our meals came from the farm itself. The highlight of the meal were some leaves fried in tempura batter. It was a good meal but slightly overpriced by Singapore standards.

    I later learned from a friend that the real star of the farm is Ivy the owner. Apparently, she is in her 70s, buxom, bubbly, and almost always braless. While I would have loved to meet her, I'm relieved she wasn't there as my mother reacts negatively to braless women; in the 1970s, I remember her recoiling at the sight of Farah Fawcett on Charlie's Angels.
    En savoir plus

  • Marina Bay Sands.
    Marina Bay Sands.The Marina Barrage was constructed to dam in the Singapore River and Marina Bay.Flower carpet, Gardens By The Bay.Flower carpet, Gardens By The Bay.Supertrees, Gardens By The Bay.Supertrees, Gardens By The Bay.Supertrees, Gardens By The Bay.Supertrees, Gardens By The Bay.Supertrees, Gardens By The Bay.Lanterns, Gardens By The Bay.The Love the Last sculpture ended with two anthropomorphic tourists.Love the Last is a long sculpture featuring endangered animals.Love the Last is a long sculpture featuring endangered animals.Love the Last is a long sculpture featuring endangered animals.One of the domes at Gardens By The Bay.Flower clock, Gardens By The Bay.Flower clock, Gardens By The Bay.Gardens By The Bay.Gardens By The Bay.

    Gardens By The Bay

    29 septembre 2023, Singapour ⋅ 🌩️ 31 °C

    In the afternoon, Jeff and I hopped onto the MRT and headed out to Gardens by the Bay. To be honest, I’m not terribly interested in this attraction because the green space is curated and not very natural. But, it is pretty much a must see for any first time visitor to Singapore. Because of rain, we could not go up the supertrees. The main highlight was Love the Last, a long sculpture featuring endangered animals. Each animal had its own backstory which could be viewed by scanning a QR code.

    After Gardens By The Bay, I took Jeff to the CapitaSpring rooftop garden - which I had visited a few days earlier - for free panoramic views of Singapore's CBD.
    En savoir plus

  • Sri Lanka - Prologue

    30 septembre 2023, Singapour ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    When we were looking at places to travel to from Singapore, I suggested going to Sri Lanka to seek out the sites where Duran Duran filmed their videos in the 1980s. We both jumped at the idea because we thought it might be a fun way to explore a new country. We researched where Duran Duran filmed the three videos - Hungry Like the Wolf, Save a Prayer, and Lonely in Your Nightmare - and planned out an itinerary to hit the major film sites.

    In true Jeff fashion, however, he decided to take this one step further by reenacting some of the scenes. This added another dimension of fun to our explorations. There are six reenactment videos among the footprints 👣 😂.

    For reference, here are URLs for the videos:

    Hungry Like the Wolf: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJL-lCzEXgI
    Our two reenactments are at 0:26 to 0:42, and 2:16 to 2:19.

    Save a Prayer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Uxc9eFcZyM
    We did three reenactments to this video. They are at: 2:25 to 2:45, 4:03 to 4:17, and 4:40 to 5:56.

    Lonely in Your Nightmare: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGdLNbIc2ZA
    Our one reenactment is at 1:25 to 1:33.
    En savoir plus

  • UL303 taking off from SIN.
    UL303 at the gate in SIN.Our seats for this flight.Our legroom at the emergency exit.Jeff at the Marhaba Lounge.UL303 at the gate as sen from the Marhaba Lounge.Awaiting takeoff behind a Saudia B787.After takeoff from SIN.Jeff's vegetarian meal.My seafood noodle meal.UL303 on descent into CMB.UL303 on descent into CMB.My boarding pass for UL303.FlightRadar24's record of UL303.FlightRadar24's record of UL303.Entry stamp into Sri Lanka.

    Singapore to Colombo

    30 septembre 2023, Singapour ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Sri Lankan Airlines UL 303 | SIN/CMB
    Economy Class
    Airbus A330-200 | 4R-ALS
    ATD/1722 | ATA/1842
    Lounge: Marhaba Lounge T3

    Around mid-morning, Jeff and I bade farewell to my mother and we met my classmates for a vegetarian dim sum brunch. After eating, we piled into my classmate Azima's car and she gave us a ride to the airport.

    This was our first time flying Sri Lankan Airlines. The predeparture experience wasn't the best. Per their website, OneWorld Emerald members have access to complimentary seat selection, but their website wouldn't allow us to select an exit seat without paying. I emailed the customer service line only to receive a reply in broken English from an agent who clearly didn't understand my question. While in Singapore, I called the local office and the agent there said she did not understand me and she hung up on me. In the end, we purchased an exit seat for Jeff.

    At the airport check in, I managed to secure the exit seat next to the seat Jeff paid for. But, they did not inform us at check in that the flight was delayed, nor did they issue a lounge invitation. When we got to the lounge, the attendant had to call to get authorization to let us in. It was only when we looked at the monitors in the lounge that we got our first indication that our flight would depart over two hours late.

    The flight itself was pleasant, and it passed quickly. We arrived into a slightly chaotic and rainy Bandaranaike Airport. After getting through immigration and customs, we went to the Sri Lankan Airlines customer service desk to try and secure an exit seat for Jeff. Alas, they could not help us as the seats were either blocked or taken; we couldn’t tell which situation it was because the agent provided conflicting information.

    Our stress level ratcheted up a notch when we tried to use the ATM… all three of our cards were rejected! We had to rustle up whatever cash we had and go to the money changer. For the rest of our time in Sri Lanka, we charged whatever we could our credit cards, and we managed to get by without running out of cash. On our return home, we learned that my card had been blocked because of a fraudulent charge. The card issuer could not contact me because my regular phone number wasn’t in use while I was overseas. As for Jeff, well, it turned out that both of his cards had expired and we didn't have the new cards in his wallet.

    After trying to take care of business, we took an Uber to our hotel in the Fort area. The Uber fare was significantly cheaper than the taxi fares quoted in the arrivals hall. The rain soaked drive into Colombo took about 30 minutes. We were both tired by the time we got to the hotel, and we went to sleep soon after checking in.
    En savoir plus

  • Jeff reenacting the opening scene from Hungry Like The Wolf.
    The original scene from the Hungry Like The Wolf video.We believe the Pagoda Tea Room was located in this building.Internet evidence also pointed to this building as the location of the Pagoda Tea Room.Jeff peering into the Green Cabin to determine if this was the Pagoda Tea Room.Jeff researching the internet to figure out if this was the Pagoda Tea Room.The Dutch Hospital area.The Dutch Hospital area.The Dutch Hospital.Scenes from around the Colombo Fort area.Scenes from about Colombo Fort area.The Cargills Building, Colombo Fort area.Scenes from around the Colombo Fort area.Scenes from around the Colombo Fort area.Scenes from around the Colombo Fort area.Scenes from about Colombo Fort area.The atrium at C1 Colombo Fort Hotel.Part of my buffet breakfast.

    Hungry Like The Wolf

    1 octobre 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    We had a good sleep at the C1 Colombo Fort Hotel. It rained most of the night. We woke up early as Singapore is 2.5 hours ahead of Sri Lanka. After freshening up, we walked over to the nearby Dutch Hospital area and found a breakfast buffet for about $7. I would normally avoid a breakfast buffet, but it made sense for us to eat a large breakfast as we were expecting to not eat lunch. In any case, the buffet food was good. I had my first taste of Sri Lankan food and I was hooked! I especially enjoyed the potato curry, which I sopped up with both roti and poori.

    The main reason why I chose to stay at C1 Colombo Fort Hotel was because it is a stones throw from the Pagoda Tea Room on Chatham Street where Duran Duran filmed the opening scene of Hungry Like the Wolf. In that scene, Simon Le Bon is seated at a table when a street vendor with a monkey annoys him. He tells the vendor to go away, then he takes off his sunglasses, and then he has a random temper tantrum in which he overturns the table.

    Our internet research yielded conflicting information about which unit in Chatham Street the Pagoda Tea House was located. Online evidence suggested it was the Green Cabin, but the empty ground floor unit at the De Mel Building across the street seemed to be the more likely location because the columns resembled the scene in the video. We settled on this as the venue, and Jeff proceeded with his reenactment of the opening scene at the storefront.

    After our reenactment, we wandered around the Fort area for a bit before returning to the hotel to get ready for our journey to Galle. The Fort area had an interesting mix of restored and decaying colonial buildings. Some of the colonial buildings were abandoned and had trees growing out of them. The roads weren't in great condition and we had to dodge rainwater filled potholes.

    I had initially planned to visit a couple of sights in the Pettah area nearby, but I changed my mind due to the rain and our impending 10.30am train departure.
    En savoir plus

  • Our train arriving into Colombo Fort Station.
    The packed, sweltering train cabin.The packed, sweltering train cabin.Colombo Fort Railway Station.Colombo Fort Railway Station.Colombo Fort Railway Station.

    Misadventures on the Train Tracks

    1 octobre 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Our plan for the day was to take the train from Colombo Fort Station to Galle.

    I had initially intended to walk to the train station which was less than 1km away from our hotel, but I changed my mind due to the rain, and so we ended booking an Uber for under $1. Our journey started to go awry right from the start when our somewhat manic Uber driver got lost navigating the very short journey from our hotel to Colombo Fort Station. We ended up going in circles before we got to the train station. He also tried to converse with us but we couldn't figure out half of what he was trying to say to us.

    We arrived at the railway station around 40 minutes before our train's scheduled 10.30am departure time. After buying our second class tickets with unreserved seats, we made our way to Platform 5 and waited... and waited, and waited. Our train finally arrived about 30 minutes late. The carriages were already full when it arrived, and there was a mad rush with lots of people getting on and off. We couldn't identify whether we were in a second or third class cabin, and our subsequent internet search revealed conflicting information. The cabin was packed to the gills, with barely enough standing room even.

    The train was only supposed to stop for 5 minutes, but there was no movement for over 30 minutes. The cabin was sweltering, and I was sweating buckets. I started to wonder if I wanted to stand for 2-3 hours in these conditions. Finally, after 35 minutes of waiting, we made a decision to exit the train. We walked the length of the train thinking that there may be a second class compartment that was less crowded, but it seemed as if every cabin was packed.

    Looking at our Uber app, we found that it cost about $47 to hire an Uber to Galle. We secured a ride within a minute, and we were happily on our way before the train pulled out of the station.

    Our Uber ride was very comfortable and far more civilized than the train. It took us quite a while to get through the congested city streets to the expressway. Along the way, we drove past Galle Face which appeared to be full of life with street vendors and crowds enjoying the weekend. I made a mental note to spend more time in Colombo if I return so that I can get a sense of what makes this city buzz.

    Once we hit the southern expressway, it was smooth sailing. The expressway looked as if it had recently opened. There was intermittent rain along the way.

    Halfway to Galle, we readily agreed when our driver suggested we take a 15 minute break at a service station just off the expressway. At the service station, we tucked into a delicious egg roti and some corn, and we had our first taste of local ice cream.

    I had the best of intentions to experience train transport in Sri Lanka, but alas, this was not meant to be. We later found out that it was a long public holiday weekend, which explains the crowds. In hindsight, I should have gone for the afternoon train with a first class compartment and reserved seats. I also have to keep reminding myself that I’m no longer a young, hardy, budget conscious backpacker; as with everyone else, age has exacted its toll on me.
    En savoir plus

  • Galle

    1 octobre 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We arrived in Galle in the early afternoon. After checking in to the Seagreen Guesthouse, we spent a pleasant afternoon exploring Galle.

    There is one Duran Duran film site in Galle, and that is the Amangalla Hotel. Scenes filmed at this hotel appear in all three of their Sri Lanka-based videos. Unfortunately, the Amangalla is a high end hotel with security at the front. We didn't feel comfortable going in, so we just took photos of the exterior. I doubt we would have been able to recreate any scenes there anyway, as we would have needed a four post bed with mosquito nets!

    This entry features scenes from within the fort. Overall, the vibe was friendly, artsy (but not overly so) and not overly touristy. It was nice to be in a walled city that the locals also enjoyed; the overall atmosphere reminded us of the Getsemani area in Cartagena.

    We enjoyed exploring the streets which were lined with churches and temples. As for meals, we were instantly drawn to the Hula Hula Cafe which had a mural of a dancer with a hula hoop. We ate dinner there on our first evening, and we enjoyed our first kottu of this trip at their rooftop dining area. I was surprised to find that Jeff really liked kottu.

    We liked our accommodation at the Seagreen Guesthouse. Our $23/night room opened out into a verandah, which in turn had a view of the eastern fort walls. I enjoyed sitting there watching the people walking past. We opted to eat breakfast at the guesthouse, and it was served to us on the verandah. Sadly, we were the only guests during our two nights there.

    The guesthouse dog, who was named Pilot, took a real shine to us and he hung out outside our door waiting for us to come out and interact with him. Pilot did have a bad habit of chasing cars, though. Apparently, he mostly chases white cars.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/galle-fort
    En savoir plus

  • Scenes from around the fort walls.
    Scenes from around the fort walls.Scenes from around the fort walls.There was a small beach where people could play in the water.Scenes from around the fort walls.Scenes from around the fort walls.Scenes from around the fort walls.Scenes from around the fort walls.Scenes from around the fort walls.Scenes from around the fort walls.Scenes from around the fort walls.Scenes from around the fort walls.Scenes from around the fort walls.Scenes from around the fort walls.Scenes from around the fort walls. I inadvertently captured a pigeon in flight.Scenes from around the fort walls.Scenes from around the fort walls.Scenes from around the fort walls.Scenes from around the fort walls.Scenes from around the fort walls.

    Galle Fort Walls

    1 octobre 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    In addition to exploring the streets within Galle, we circumnavigated the fort walls. Here are scenes from around the walls. As it was a Sunday, there were many local families hanging out around the city walls enjoying the cooling breeze.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/galle-fort
    En savoir plus

  • Raju Herbal & Spice Garden.
    Our tuk tuk driver Ganatha braving the slightly chaotic traffic.Shockingly, Jeff fit into the tuk tuk quite easily. He has struggled in the past.Raju Herbal & Spice Garden.Rose apple flowers, Raju Herbal & Spice Garden.Raju Herbal & Spice Garden.Hot chili pepper, Raju Herbal & Spice Garden.

    Raju Herbal & Spice Garden

    2 octobre 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We hired a tuk tuk from our guesthouse to take us sightseeing for 10,000 rupees. This was our first experience with a tuk tuk in Sri Lanka and we had quite a few white knuckle moments because of the crazy driving style.

    At the recommendation of our driver Ganatha, we made our first stop was Raju Herbal and Spice Garden, which our driver Ganatha recommended. Here, we were taken on a walking tour of the spice garden where our guide showed us the various plants and their medicinal uses. As soon as the tour started, I groaned inwardly it was clear that this excursion would end at a gift shop. After the garden tour, we were led to a pavilion where we were given a short oil massage for tips only. We didn't expect this but we went along with the flow. The massage was so-so, and I was slightly annoyed that they used oil as I sweat a fair bit, and oil mixed with sweat on my skin can get nasty. Thankfully, I didn't sweat much that day.

    After the massage, we were led to the inevitable gift shop. There wasn't much pressure to buy, but I ended up purchasing a weight loss formula made of pineapple; up to 4kg of weight loss was guaranteed, apparently. I figured I had nothing to lose (except a few pounds) at this stage. Jeff bought a tonic to reduce snoring.

    The old backpacker in me normally wouldn't entertain going to a place like this where I knew I would be asked to part with my money. Hopefully something good will come out of our purchases, whether it be weight loss for me or better sleep for both of us.
    En savoir plus

  • A year old green turtle.
    A loggerhead turtle.The types of turtles.A hawksbill turtle with a missing hind flipper.Loggerhead turtle recovering from a cracked shell,Olive ridley turtle with missing front flipper.This loggerhead turtle was bloated from eating platic bags, and hence was unable to dive.An albino olive ridley turtle with missing front flipper.The hatchery with three clutches of olive ridley eggs.

    Turtle Hatchery

    2 octobre 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Our second stop on our tuk tuk tour was a sea turtle hatchery and rescue center. Here, we viewed various injured turtles undergoing rehabilitation in tanks. We saw green turtles, hawksbill turtles, loggerhead turtles, and olive ridley turtles. A number of them had missing limbs, and others were undergoing rehabilitation for cracked shells caused by collisions with boats. One of them could not dive because it been bloated by swallowing plastic, which they mistake for jellyfish, their favorite food source.

    Also on the premises were three batches of turtle eggs, numbering over 300 in total, incubating in a protected area. When they hatch, the staff will bring them to the ocean. I was already aware of this grim statistic, but I was reminded that only 1 in 1,000 hatchlings will survive to adulthood. It was sobering to fathom that there is a possibility that none of the incubating baby turtles in the hatchery would make it.

    Overall, this was an enlightening visit and I was happy to pay the 1,500 rupee entrance fee to support this cause. The only thing I disliked was that the staff there allowed visitors to touch some of the turtles. In Hawaii, we are conditioned to keep our distance from wildlife as it is illegal to touch or harass wild fauna.
    En savoir plus

  • Koggala Lake.
    Koggala Lake.Koggala Lake.Koggala Lake.Koggala Lake.Koggala Lake.Koggala Lake.Mangrove at Koggala Lake.Koggala Lake.

    Koggala Lake

    2 octobre 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Our next stop was Koggala Lake. At this stop, tourists typically go on a boat safari. We declined to go on the boat safari, which turned out to be a wise decision because the skies opened up not long after we departed. Instead, we went on a short walk on a bridge across part of the lake.En savoir plus

  • Handunugoda White Tea Plantation

    2 octobre 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    The Lonely Planet has high praise for the Handunugoda Tea Plantation, and so I was happy to make the detour uphill. I was a little skeptical about how good a tea plantation could be at low altitude this close to a coastline, but I was pleasantly surprised to see that they produced award winning tea. Arriving at the plantation, we joined a multigenerational Japanese family for a walking tour of the grounds.

    The plantation's main claim to fame is their production of white tea based on an ancient Chinese technique. In the past, this tea was reserved for emperors only. The leaves had to be harvested by virgins using gold scissors and gold collection bowls. The leaves must not touch human hands at all while being processed. The Handunugoda Tea Plantation utilized this same collection process for white tea, sans virgins. Apparently, they collect only around 25 grams a day because they painstakingly identify only the best leaves. Apart from white tea, the plantation also produces 40 different varieties of tea. They also grow coffee, cinnamon, rubber, and pepper.

    After our introduction to the tea plants, we went to the front porch of the plantation founder's home where we were served oolong tea and chocolate cake. Along the way, we encountered a troop of monkeys. At the house, we were serenaded by a peacock perched in a nearby tree.

    After the tea and cake, we were shown the processing facility, which includes some equipment that was more than a century old. Our final stop was the gift shop where we could taste the 40 varieties of tea produced in the plantation. The white virgin tea was among the best I tried. Jeff tried all 40 teas; I tried about a third of them. There was subtle pressure to purchase tea, but it wasn't bad overall.

    This was a very pleasant and educational experience. The tour used to be free, but they now charge $2 to cover their rising costs.
    En savoir plus

  • Our reenactment of the Trapobane Island scene from Lonely In Your Nightmare.
    The original clip from Lonely In Your Nightmare.One of our practice shots to figure out positioning and angle for the video.Trapobane Island.Trapobane Island.

    Lonely In Your Nightmare

    2 octobre 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Duran Duran’s Lonely in Your Nightmare featured scenes from Trapobane Island in Weligama. We went there to recreate the scene from the video in which Simon Le Bon sings “I see the delta traces living lonely out on the limb”. Unfortunately, the sea was too rough for us to recreate other parts of the scene where he walks on the sand to the island. Per the Lonely Planet, Trapobane Island is an ultra high end resort charging in excess of $1,000 per night. I doubt I’ll be staying there anytime.En savoir plus

  • Stilt fishermen.
    Stilt fishermen.Stilt fishermen.Stilt fishermen.Stilt fishermen.

    Save A Prayer... For The Stilt Fishermen

    2 octobre 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    Duran Duran’s video for Save A Prayer (https://youtu.be/6Uxc9eFcZyM?si=2zrefUgQpngZMKZL) featured Sri Lanka’s famed stilt fishermen around the 2:00 mark. Nowadays, the fishermen are mostly there for show, extracting payment from tourists for photo opportunities. We snuck a few photos from a distance, and we chose not to reenact the scene from the video because we probably would have had to pay off all the fishermen in the area.

    After our covert photography session, we beat a quick retreat to Galle amidst dark clouds. Thanks to Ganatha’s skilled driving, we avoided most of the rain. The skies did open up along the way and we had to close the flaps to avoid getting wet.

    Back at Seagreen Guesthouse, we went out for an afternoon snack, then we retired to our verandah to hang out and watch the people walking along the fort walls. It rained on an off for the remainder of the day and evening.

    In the evening, we ventured out to dinner intending to dine again at Hula Hula Cafe. Unfortunately, they were closed. We ate at another restaurant where I had rice and curry and Jeff has pasta.
    En savoir plus

  • Hungry Like The (Swimming) Wolf

    3 octobre 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Our quest to hit Duran Duran's film sites within a limited time frame meant a few long and costly car journeys. During our last evening in Galle, I fretted about snagging an Intercity Uber ride for the 4.5 hour drive to Sigiriya. On the app, I noticed that there was an available driver around the corner, and, interestingly, he was still around the next morning. When I requested our ride, he responded immediately and he came by within five minutes.

    When our driver arrived, he immediately requested that we cancel the ride and pay him in cash for the amount Uber quoted us. Per his explanation, Uber takes some time to pay him, and he needed cash immediately for fuel. I reluctantly agreed as the 32,000 rupee cash fare would make a dent on our precarious cash situation. I also learned from this experience that Uber Intercity drivers may take a fare to one town, and they stay overnight in that town if they don't book a same day ride back in the general direction of their home.

    Our drive first took up northward up the expressway to the outskirts of Colombo, and then we headed east to the outskirts of Kandy. From there, it was surface roads all the way to Roy's Villa. I was concerned that our driver would get tried and sleepy, but he remained alert throughout. We declined his suggestion to stop at a elephant rescue, but we did finally stop about 25 minutes away from our destination for a smoothie and bathroom break.

    We chose to stay in the Sigiriya area because it was a good location to hit three film sites: Sigiriya Rock, Polonnaruwa, and a national park with elephants. Researching places to stay, I settled on Roy's Villa because of the positive reviews and also because they organize trips to these sites.

    We arrived at Roy's around 2pm. The Lonely Planet mentioned that Roy was quite a character, and I am happy to report that it was not an exaggeration. Roy took us under his wing and before long we had a rough itinerary, subject, of course, to Sri Lankan time.

    Our first activity after checking in was to go on a free excursion to a local lake. There, we took the opportunity to reenact the scene from 2:16 to 2:19 in Hungry Like the Wolf (video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJL-lCzEXgI) where one of the band members (presumably Simon Le Bon) emerges from a body of water.
    En savoir plus

  • Save A Prayer...For The Lion Rock

    4 octobre 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Duran Duran filmed part of their Save A Prayer video at the UNESCO listed Sigiriya Rock, also known as Lion Rock. We therefore included a climb to the top of the rock to our itinerary.

    Roy's Villa's typical itinerary involves shuttling their guests to climb a hill at 4.45am to watch the sunrise over Sigiriya Rock, and then the hikers are brought to Sigiriya Rock itself. We declined this option as we wanted to focus on reenacting the scene from Save a Prayer. Besides, we didn't want to piss of our fellow hostel mates by taking a long time filming at the summit of Sigiriya Rock. So, we requested a tuk tuk from Roy's. We set off at 6.15am to beat the crowds and the heat. Ravi, Roy's brother, drove us there via tuk tuk and he told us to send him a WhatsApp message when we decide to descend.

    The rock itself was awe inspiring as we approached it. We started our climb up some concrete stone steps. After the first set of steps, we hit the iconic lion's paws. We continued on stone steps, transitioned to a metal staircase, and then went to back to climbing concrete steps again before hitting the summit. The rock itself is about 600 feet high, and there were over 1,000 steps. We didn't take more than 20 minutes to get to the summit.

    At the summit, we busied ourselves with recreating the scenes from the video. Duran Duran filmed their scene there with the help of a helicopter. We obviously didn’t have a helicopter at our disposal, and we didn’t have a drone either (they were banned at the summit anyway) so we made our own interpretation of the scene from ground level. After that, we wandered around the summit admiring the view and the palace ruins before descending and returning to Roy's Villa for a well earned breakfast. The descent included a diversion up a spiral staircase to view frescoes of mostly bare breasted women. Photos of the frescoes were not allowed 🚫.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/sigiriya
    En savoir plus

  • The massive bull elephant who stared down our jeeps.
    This is the youngster he chased away. Note the engorged penis.Another view of the youngster.A video of the dominant male among the jeeps.Kaudulla National Park.Kaudulla National Park.A herd we observed up close.A herd we observed up close.A herd we observed up close.A herd we observed up close.A herd we observed up close.A herd we observed up close.A herd we observed up close.A herd we observed up close.A herd by the lake.A herd by the lake.Jeff recording a nearby herd.A herd by the lake.A herd in the distance by the lake.A herd by the lake.We also spotted various birds, including a stork.We also spotted various birds, including a grey headed fish eagle..

    Save A Prayer… For The Elephants

    4 octobre 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Duran Duran's Save A Prayer video included several sequences with the band riding elephants. Jeff and I are wary of the ethical implications of this practice, so we did not seek out opportunities to ride pachyderms. Instead, we opted to admire them in their natural habitat from a distance. So, there are no video recreations in this entry. Besides, it would have been very unwise to disembark from our jeep while we were among wild elephants.

    In the afternoon, us and four other guests from Roy's Villa - Chris and Becky from the UK, and an Israeli couple - loaded ourselves onto a jeep and headed northwest for 45 minutes to Kaudulla National Park. There, we were treated to the awe inspiring sight of well over 100 elephants, along with water buffalo, monkeys, mongoose, and various birds.

    Drama and chaos ensued towards the end of our safari when an amorous suitor approached a herd we were observing. The dominant male from the herd chased the sexually frustrated youngster away, but in doing so, he got among the vehicles. There were well over a dozen jeeps, and they all had to maneuver themselves away from the angry beast. We nearly crashed into another jeep while reversing, and the male did in fact have a staring contest with the occupants of another jeep before he walked away.

    This was a great day out, but we were tired by the end of the day, and we even told the driver to take us back when he attempted to stop for one last herd sighting outside the park. I was impressed that the driver could spot elephants among the roadside vegetation in the fading light of day.

    This trip cost is the equivalent of $45 each in cash. It made yet another dent to our cash situation.
    En savoir plus

  • Polonnaruwa: Sacred Quadrangle

    5 octobre 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Our goal for the day was to reenact two scenes from Save A Prayer that were filmed at the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, a UNESCO World Heritage site. To get there, we joined a trip organized by Roy's Villa. We did this trip with two German backpackers.

    The drive to Polonnaruwa took about 1 hour 15 minutes, at which time Ravi, deposited us at a bicycle rental stand. The bicycle rental shop owner then escorted up on our bikes for about 1km to the visitor center where we purchased our tickets for $25 each. After purchasing our tickets, we cycled into the southern end of the large and sprawling complex.

    Our first stop was the Sacred Quadrangle, which housed some beautiful ruins. Duran Duran did not film here, so our visit was relatively short. The most spectacular sight here was the Vatadage, a circular structure with Buddha statues inside.
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