Pohnpei

July 2003
Working trip sponsored by my client. Read more
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  • 10.6kkilometers
  • 10.6kkilometers
  • Day 6

    Majuro to Honolulu

    July 23, 2003 in Marshall Islands ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    Continental Micronesia CS956 | MAJ/HNL
    Economy Class
    N14249 | Boeing 737-800
    ATD/1945 | ATA/0212

    The sun had set completely while we were on the ground, and we took off in darkness. Takeoff was smooth. Climb was a little turbulent, and we would have intermittent turbulence throughout the flight. Consequently, the seatbelt sign was on most of the 4 hour 14 minute flight back to HNL. The crying baby was silent for the initial portion of this sector, but this would not last long.

    40 minutes into the flight, we passed the international date line. I took my watch off to adjust to Hawaii time, which is 21 hours behind KOS/PNI and 22 hours behind MAJ/KWA, and as I was turning the dial I forgot the time. Both my seatmates were asleep, so I looked at the watch the man across the aisle was wearing. After staring at it for half a minute, a realized his watch wasn’t working. What’s up with all these stalled timepieces in the Pacific?

    Cabin service was already underway, and the Captain had announced earlier that we would have dinner and a “smoothie service”, whatever that was. The flight attendants reached us soon after. I took the opportunity to confirm the time with my traveling companion. The meal choices were chicken with rice or hamburger steak with rice. I chose the chicken, and it was cooked in a savory black bean sauce that was actually quite tasty. I opened the bottle of chili sauce I bought at KOS and it provided just the right amount of kick to it. Unfortunately, about a third of the rice had dried out and was hard. The vegetables – carrots and broccoli – was overcooked and way too soft. Also on the tray were a pasta salad (with a single lettuce leaf and half a black olive) and a square of coffee cake, which was very good. I asked for a diet coke with my meal and did not get the whole can. The F/As did not come round offering coffee or tea after the meal.

    The movies were already playing when my companions woke up. One of them, who had watched the movies on the outbound flight – commented that they were the same. A check through the inflight magazine indicated that the flight crew on our outbound flight had screened the wrong movies. By the way, they were “Baby” and “Monday Night Madness” – both made-for-TV movies that were hardly blockbusters by any means. I was tired and I chose to sleep, but it was a fitful sleep marred by turbulence, the crying baby and the snoring man.

    During the course of the flight, flight attendants came round twice with water. The “smoothie service” never materialized. We didn’t have a bar service before landing either, but I guess that can be forgiven because of the time.

    We landed in HNL just after 0200 and we were at Gate 24 at about 0212. While taxiing to the terminal, a few passengers stood up, and the Purser had to make two announcements requesting people to stay seated. In the end, one of them went to the offending passengers and made them sit down. I cleared through customs and immigration very quickly.

    Overall, the service on this flight was less personal than on the outbound flight. Only one of the flight attendants went out of her way to chat with passengers. I was also puzzled at the number of times they came round with immigration and customs forms. All in all, however, CO is still the best among the US majors, and I was thankful that this unique flight was with them.
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  • Day 6

    Kwajalein to Majuro

    July 23, 2003 in Marshall Islands ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    Continental Micronesia CS956 | KWA/MAJ
    Economy Class
    N14249 | Boeing 737-800
    ATD/1803 | ATA/1855

    Once we were ready to depart, we taxied past a US Navy aircraft and onto the taxiway. Turning onto the runway, we took off in the rain. Flying time to MAJ was about 45 minutes. Our climb was slightly turbulent, and the Captain announced that he would keep the seatbelt sign on for the duration of the flight to MAJ. We flew through clouds the whole time.

    The “tropical juice service”, as the flight attendants called it, started very quickly into the flight. This time, they identified the juice – it was supposed to be pineapple-orange – but somehow it tasted like guava juice.

    We descended through yet more clouds to land at MAJ. MAJ, too, was wet, and almost all transit passengers stayed on board. While in transit, USA immigration and customs forms were distributed, and they would be distributed again and again (no fewer than five more times) en route to HNL. This also happened on the prior legs. Somehow, this set of crew was a lot more concerned that every passenger got the right forms. Before long, MAJ passengers boarded, and we were on our final leg. The snoring man, in the meantime, had moved to the seat directly behind me – I guess that was his assigned seat. The aircraft was quite full for this sector – again at least 80% - but the seat between Tony and I remained unoccupied. Another one of my client’s staff who was seated a few rows behind came to sit with us because the crying baby was preventing her from sleeping.
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  • Day 6

    Kosrae to Kwajalein

    July 23, 2003 in Micronesia ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    Continental Micronesia CS956 | KSA/KWA
    Economy Class
    N14249 | Boeing 737-800
    ATD/1508 | ATA/1723

    The Purser advised that they would perform a security check while in transit at KSA. Any transit passengers wishing to deplane had to take all their hand baggage, place it in a container at the bottom of the aircraft steps, and reclaim them before reboarding. All passengers staying on board had to account for their baggage, and any unaccounted baggage would be removed. I grabbed my bags, deposited them in the trolley, and walked into the terminal at KSA. Over the arrivals area was a sign saying “Welcome to the Mysterious Paradise Island, Home of the Sleeping Lady Mountain”. I hadn’t noticed this on the outbound.

    Once inside the check-in hall, I made my way to the vendors and bought a bottle of chili lime sauce and two bags of tangerines. After that, I made my way back to the departure hall and before long boarding was called. At the aircraft, I reclaimed my bags and walked back into the cabin to find that the Mormons and the man occupying my seat had gone. I sat in my assigned seat and saw that the large man in 14F was still snoring away. At least now there would be a little more distance between him and I. Before the door closed, the flight attendants made announcements asking the owner of a piece of hand luggage to claim it before it gets confiscated.

    Quite a few passengers disembarked at KSA, and the aircraft was a little more than 50% full. We taxied to the western end of the runway. This time, the pilots did not apply the brakes and rev the engines. Just as we were airborne, I peered out the window to see that we were already past the runway and over the reef. Tony was in 12A, and I must have frightened him a little about the runway at KSA, because he let out a low whistle.

    As we were climbing, I took out one bag of tangerines and we finished it in no time. Because of Hawaii’s quarantine regulations, we had to finish all our fresh fruit before arriving there. Flying time to KWA was about one hour. Snack service began as we were still climbing, and this time the tray consisted of a bun with a leaf of lettuce and three thick slices of ham, a small pack of “chamorro chip” cookies from Guam, two pieces of saltine crackers and a wedge of laughing cow cheese. I asked for a orange juice as well. This sector was a little turbulent, and a baby a few rows behind me started crying loudly; this would continue well into the MAJ-HNL sector.

    We descended into KWA through thick clouds and some turbulence. It was raining heavily, and I could see stormy ocean beneath us. Suddenly, the engines revved up and we started climbing again. It was obvious that the landing was being aborted. The Captain then came on to say that he had to go around because of the rain and low visibility. We made a two 180 degree turns, and the aircraft swayed a lot. I was expecting a very rough landing because of the swaying, but our touchdown on the very wet runway was surprisingly smooth. Looking at the windsock, I saw that we landed into an almost direct, if strong, headwind, so it wasn’t too hairy after all. The rain was quite heavy, and from the coconut palms we could see that wind was strong too. Amazingly, snoring man slept through all this. Despite the aborted landing, we still arrived on schedule.

    Only five passengers disembarked at KWA, and while we were in transit the drinks cart was replenished. Transit passengers weren’t allowed to disembark as KWA is a military installation. In any case, nobody would have wanted to get off in the rain. My traveling companion and I ate the second bag of tangerines. One of the flight attendants – a woman named Patty - very cheerfully cleared out bag of tangerine peel.

    Almost 40 passengers boarded, making the aircraft about 80% full. Boarding was a little slow because two young girls who boarded first were confused about their seats in BusinessFirst and no one could get beyond them. Meanwhile, the passengers waiting to get into the aircraft were getting wet outside. A flight attendant made an announcement requesting boarding passengers to allow others to pass by so that those still outside did not get more wet. Despite the heavier load, the seat between Tony and I remained unoccupied.
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  • Day 6

    Pohnpei to Kosrae

    July 23, 2003 in Micronesia ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    Continental Micronesia CS956 | PNI/KSA
    Economy Class
    N14249 | Boeing 737-800
    ATD/1335 | ATA/1412

    My client arranged for a 1045 pickup from our hotel. It was a little too early for my liking, but I went with it anyway. We drove through Kolonia town one last time, and then along the causeway that links the airport to the main island. Along the way, there were a few signs admonishing people against drinking and driving, but interestingly there are no DUI laws in Pohnpei.

    Arrived at the terminal at 1100. Check-in was already open. CO is the only carrier operating into PNI (and KSA, for that matter), and both desks were theirs. I was surprised to see that they used computers to check-in. I somehow expected CO to use manual check-in given the telecommunications structure at PNI and the fact that they only process relatively small numbers of passengers. I asked for an aisle seat (American Express Travel couldn’t get me an assigned seat) and he gave me 12C on the exit. I was then advised to wait for the airport tax collector to arrive, and the check-in agent advised that he would hold my boarding pass until she arrived.

    While waiting for the airport tax collector, I browsed through the souvenir stands. It housed the usual collections of knick-knacks, but there was a random collection of about ten used CDs selling for $5 each. They included Jane’s Addiction’s Ritual De Lo Habitual (alas, not with the classic cover artwork but the version with the white album cover and Perry Ferrell’s diatribe about “intellectual mosquitoes” on the inside) and a Steppenwolf CD (can’t remember which album). While waiting for the airport tax collector, one of the hotel staff came to say goodbye, and the Assistant to the Director of the Economic Development Authority came and gave us cooked mangrove crabs to take back with us!

    The airport tax collector finally came at 1210. I was sweating buckets by then because the airport check-in lounge is not air-conditioned. I paid my $10 and got my boarding pass. I then went to the restroom, only to find red betel nut spit all over the urinals. Ewwww. Back in the check-in area, a tourism board employee asked me to fill in a survey form, and I gladly did so.

    Walking into the air-conditioned security screening area at 1245 was a relief. There were no x-ray machines there (same as KSA and MAJ) and all hand luggage was hand searched. I was asked to turn on my laptop. Fortunately, I did not set off the metal detector, so I avoided getting wanded.

    The departure hall was a small room. On one wall were clocks displaying the time in various cities, but almost all of them were not working. There were also two Air Nauru posters (are they still flying?). There were about 40 passengers in the departure hall.

    Boarding began at about 1300, and the airport security staff starting doing random hand searches as people boarded, which didn't make sense as the security screening area was only 50 feet away and nobody could go anywhere else from there. I got selected for the random search and I had to turn on and shutdown my laptop all over again. This time I had to take off my shoes too.

    Walking through the bright sunshine to board N14249, I walked on to see the US ambassador to the FSM in BusinessFirst. A man was in my seat – 12C – and he asked if I could take 12D because that was his assigned seat and his wife was in 12B. I said ok. Behind us on 14BCD were three Mormon missionaries, and a very large man was in 14F. At the exit, I noticed that some of the exit door instructions were in Spanish. (Bear in mind my earlier comments about the inconsistent use of different languages in the signage on the outbound aircraft). As I got myself settled in, a flight attendant walked by with entry forms for KSA.

    Aircraft door was closed by 1330, and we started taxiing at 1335. The aircraft taxied to the western end of the runway 09 and we took off in an easterly direction. 11D was marked “For Flight Attendant Use Only” and one of the flight attendants sat there for takeoff. There was also a mechanic on board and he had a seat in the forward section of coach. The load on the sector was about 60% – there was at least one empty seat per row. Flying time to KSA was about 1 hour.

    Drinks were served while we were still climbing. I got a pack of mini pretzels and a whole can of diet coke. The napkins this time had a floral design – on the outbound flights we had some advertising online check-in and some advertising the fact that CO’s flight attendants spoke over 30 languages.

    During the flight, the ambassador walked through the cabin talking to the Americans on board. He only went back to his seat as we were descending into KOS, and he disembarked there. The large man in 14F snored loudly throughout the flight. We descended through cloud cover and landed smoothly, and the snoring man did not wake up! After landing, we turned around on the runway – that was when I saw that we stopped just before the “piano keys” at the end of the runway – and taxied to the terminal.
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  • Day 5

    Sokehs Rock

    July 22, 2003 in Micronesia ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    I spent a sweltering afternoon hiking up a ridge to an overlook with a view of Sokehs Rock, Kolonia Town and the airport. Along the way, I came across several rusting old tanks from World War II.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Oceania/Micronesia/P…
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  • Day 5

    Nan Madol

    July 22, 2003 in Micronesia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    The standout sightseeing highlight of this trip was, without question, Nan Madol, a fort-like series of stone structures just off the coast of Pohnpei and about two hours by boat from the main town of Kolonia. It was built around 800 years ago in a remarkable feat of engineering, as the basalt used in its construction is not found anywhere nearby. The people who lived there apparently did not leave artifacts, so there are a lot of unanswered questions about the origins and purpose of the place.

    I went to Nan Madol with my client's staff - Tony, Cheryl, and Michelle on a half-day trip. The small boat took about two hours through waters that got somewhat rough once we went past the reef barrier. Approaching Nan Madol was one of those surreal "whoa" moments; I needed a few moments to take it all in. But then something black and slimy distracted me... sea cucumbers... thousands of them in the knee high water where our boat anchored. I grabbed a couple and started a squirting war!

    We spent a couple of hours exploring the ruins. We didn't really know much about the complex and what it was used for, but it was still an awe inspiring trip.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Oceania/Micronesia/P…
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  • Day 3

    The Village

    July 20, 2003 in Micronesia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    On our second day, my client’s staff Tony, Cheryl, and Michelle trooped out to The Village, which is a high end resort, for lunch. The views from there were quite impressive. My friend Scott, who used to live on Pohnpei, asked me to look out for a three legged dog at The Village that was once his. I was happy to report back to him that the dog was healthy and happy.

    On the way back to Kolonia, we stopped at a village that was known for its handicrafts made from local mangrove wood and shells. I purchased a couple of turtle themed souvenirs. Before leaving Pohnpei, I was given a heart shaped handicraft by a local official.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Oceania/Micronesia/P…
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  • Day 2

    Kolonia

    July 19, 2003 in Micronesia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Our first afternoon and our first full day were spent scouting out Kolonia and doing dry runs of my presentation in the conference room.

    On my first evening, I ate dinner at the restaurant at Cliff Hotel, where I was staying. I ate a steamed crab, which Pohnpei is famous for. While eating, Craig, a friend of a friend, came by and sought me out. We got to know each other while I ate. On my last evening in Pohnpei, I went to his house for a home cooked dinner. Craig gave me a lot of insights into the islands, the way of life, and the issues they face. Apart from Craig, I also interacted with a hotel staff who brought us sakau, a guy who gave me a ride in his truck when I hiked to Sokehs Rock, and a former Peace Corp volunteer who married a local.

    The infrastructure in Kolonia was a mixed bag:

    - The roads in Kolonia were badly potholed and waterlogged, but there is one nice sealed cross-island road maintained by the US military for strategic purposes.

    - Many of the cars are imported used from Japan, and they have steering wheels on the right. There wasn't a lot of traffic and most drivers steered their cars to avoid potholes. It took me a while to realize that people were actually supposed to drive on the right.

    - The most impressive building in town was FSM Telecom, but the roads in front were in poor shape. I popped in to purchase a $20 calling card to call Jeff. It did not work. Other people also reported the same issue.

    - We attended the opening ceremony for the conference in a brand spanking new gymnasium built by the Taiwanese in the hope of securing favorable fishing rights. The opening ceremony began in the afternoon. When we stepped out after sundown, it was pitch black with no street lighting.

    - There were a number of rusted out ship hulls in the bay.

    - There are no vets on the island. Once a year, a vet will come in from Guam. Some expats take their pets to Guam for treatment.

    Foodwise, I was really surprised to see how cheap the meals were. A set lunch at the nicest restaurant cost only $5.50, and with it we got either fried lapu lapu fish or chicken, rice, a side of tuna sashimi, a cup of vegetable soup from a can, and shredded cabbage with thousand island dressing. However, meals utilizing produce not from the islands (e.g., beef) were much more expensive. I also stepped into a grocery and found a depressingly small amount of fresh vegetables on display. According to Craig, only the hardiest vegetables - namely carrots and cabbage - are imported because they can survive the boat journey over.

    Without doubt, the star of the show was the mangrove crab. I ate a number of crab meals, both at the hotel restaurants and at meals provided as part of the conference. The crabs were huge and succulent.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Oceania/Micronesia/P…
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  • Day 2

    Kosrae to Pohnpei

    July 19, 2003 in Micronesia ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    Continental Micronesia CS957 | KSA/PNI
    Economy Class
    N14250 | Boeing 737-800
    ATD/1315 | ATA/1417

    Transit passengers were allowed to disembark at the airport. There were no other aircraft on the tarmac.

    In the check-in hall, there were several vendors. Most of them sold tangerines (I later found out that they were widely regarded as the best around), chili lime sauce, and various trinkets. One also had a mangrove crab on sale for $8, and another sold jars of local shellfish preserved in a lime juice-based brine. Even the Captain and First Officer disembarked to buy tangerines. I took the chance to chat with them, and they said that they flew all six sectors through to Guam. The Captain said that this wasn’t too tiring because the skies and airports were uncongested and there weren’t too many hassles to deal with. As with Majuro, the hall was filled with people. Over the PA system, a CO staff was asking for volunteers to offload themselves because the flight was oversold.

    I made my way back to the departure hall (which had only two check-in counters), past security and back onto the aircraft where I lined up to use the lavatory. Inside the galley, Evelyn was cutting slices off a quarter of a watermelon, and she offered me some, which I gratefully accepted. As soon as I got back to my seats, I warned the large guy at the window that the plane was likely to be full. To my surprise, no one claimed the seat between us, and I could count about ten empty seats when the door was closed. I wondered why they were making announcements in the terminal asking people to volunteer to fly another day, and I guessed it was because of weight restrictions. This was confirmed later – a day after my arrival in PNI I learned that quite a number of passengers were denied boarding at KSA, including one of my client’s staff who was boarding there.

    The aircraft taxied to the other end of the runway, turned around, and the pilots revved up the engines while the brakes were still on. This caused the aircraft to shake quite a bit. They then disengaged the brakes, and the engines roared as we began the takeoff roll. Takeoff was very powerful and we were up in no time. I later found out that because the runway at KSA is short, even the smallest amount of rain would cause some CO pilots to overfly KSA. There was a slight drizzle that day, and the pilots must have been concerned. This probably also explains the denied boarding at KSA. I also learned from someone at PNI that CO recently told KSA that they must improve the runway, otherwise they may consider withdrawing service. Apparently, Chuuk was given this same ultimatum a few years ago and they now have a much better runway.

    Flying time to PNI was about 56 minutes. The flight attendants came round with snacks. Ron distributed the mini pretzels and he gave a chuckle about my “slumming it” comment when he handed me my pack. Evelyn took my drink order, and she laughed heartily when I asked for watermelon juice. In the end I settled for yet another diet coke, and I didn’t get the whole can this time.

    We descended through significant cloud cover, and it was a little bumpy. Like KSA, Pohnpei was very mountainous and lush. It was beautiful. We made a hard-ish landing, and when Ron made his welcome announcement he admonished us to be careful when opening the overhead compartments because our hand carry bags “would definitely have shifted after that landing”.

    I disembarked from the aircraft onto a wet tarmac and walked to the terminal. There were several dozen people on the roof of the terminal looking at us. Because a large number disembarked here, immigration was slow to process all of us. The immigration officer was very polite and he took the time to ask me how to pronounce my name. He even asked for my permission to stamp my passport (erm… of course you can, after all how many people have FSM immigration stamps in their passports?) I don’t think he had encountered a Singapore passport before, so he took a bit longer with mine. Despite the short delay in getting past immigration, this was a refreshing change from the usual surly and sometimes downright rude immigration officers one often meets in the US. After that, I went into the baggage claim area. As with the other airports, the baggage claim consisted of a metal counter about six feet long. Only a limited number of bags could be loaded on, and many people crowded round it. I learned later that some bags were not delivered, but the owners of those bags were not able to report it before the aircraft took off again. They did get their bags the next day, though. As I did not check-in any bags, I went through customs and into the arrival hall. There was a cheery chaos there because so many were arriving for the conference. There were people greeting the delegates, and instead of leis (as is the practice in Hawaii) they presented them with a headband of flowers. Even though I wasn’t a delegate, I still got one. I waited for my client’s staff to come out into the arrival hall, and once we were all accounted for, we packed into a van to get to our hotel.

    While in PNI, I found out that one of my client’s staff used to be a GUM-based flight attendant some time ago. She told me stories about her time with CO when they flew 727s on the island hopper, including how Micronesian passengers sometimes chewed betelnut on board and spat them out into the airsick bags, hairy landings in heavy rain, and pilots having to abort landings because of wild pigs on the runway.
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