• To O Porriño

      19 juni, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

      The biggest excitement today was walking into Spain. We immediately have more pilgrims on their way to Santiago. 🙂 It felt familiar, especially when we were able to order some tortilla, Santiago cake and that lovely toast with the tomato spread, olive oil and salt (Alan adds avocado 🥑 to his).

      We walked 12.6 miles today. We were, at times, a group of Australians🇦🇺, Americans, and a girl from Canada🇨🇦, so the time went by pretty fast.

      We ended our day at a bar called Underground. Javier, the owner was so energetic and his food was AMAZING! I have never had a better piece of carrot cake in my life! He took our picture to hang on his wall with a pin for the United States 🇺🇸.

      Before we pack our packs for tomorrow, we once again hold up items and try and decide if the weight of an item is worth carrying it. 😂 Alan’s ready to throw out a few things. We’ll see.

      Tomorrow, is a tiny bit shorter but we have a big climb. We are headed to Redondela.
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    • To Valença

      18 juni, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

      We met a woman from Belarus selling homemade pierogis along our path today. We were planning on only getting something to drink (because we can’t drink enough in this warm weather), but she had quite the sales pitch and we ended up with a couple of pierogis.

      We walked on mainly cobbles, some dirt paths and remnants of a Roman route called the Via Romana XIX. We realized we have gotten so used to the cobbles now. They are still rough after a long day of it, but it’s definitely not as horrible as before. Hopefully, I haven’t jinxed ourselves.

      Walking into Valença was awesome! I loved going through the tunnel in the fortress wall and entering a village with narrow, cobbled streets. We are staying within the fortress tonight in a cute little apartment.

      We said goodbye to Peter and Muriel (from the Netherlands) today. They are spending some extra days not walking and our paths won’t cross again. 😞

      Tomorrow, we walk across the Rio Minho and into Spain. 🇪🇸
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    • To Rubiães

      17 juni, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

      Just a few words for today:

      1. It was HOT! 🥵
      2. We climbed for what seemed like forever.

      The heat really took its toll on us (and everyone else) today. I don’t think we can even drink enough fluids to replenish what we lost in sweat. But, we made it and are currently comatose in our air conditioned little room at Casa S. Sebastiao in Rubiães.

      Tomorrow, we walk to Valença. 🤞🏻🤞🏻 for cooler weather.
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    • Ponte de Lima

      16 juni, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

      We walked into Ponte de Lima to discover they are celebrating the city’s 900th year anniversary!!! From the year 1125 to 2025…crazy old! The bridge that crosses the Lima River has parts of it that were built by the Romans in the first century and the rest during the Middle Ages.

      We ate outside at a cafe that was right next to the old city wall and tower and we could see each stone has the original stone mason’s mark clearly visible. The tower and wall were constructed in the 1300’s.

      We have taken a rest day here and will continue our walk tomorrow. It is very hot today, but we were able to walk around and enjoy the HUGE market that happens here every other Monday. The market has been going on since the year 1125! 😳

      The owners of the place we are staying are so kind! Because we are leaving at 5:30 in the morning to try to beat some of the heat, they realized we would miss breakfast. So, they packed us some food for the hike.❤️

      Ponte de Lima is a beautiful city, especially at night. We waited for the temperature to cool a bit and walked around as it darkened to enjoy the lights on the bridge and the buildings.

      Our next stop will be in Rubiães staying at Casa de S Sebastião. There is a pool there and, with the high being possibly 98 degrees, I may find myself in it. 🙂
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    • Interesting Camino StatueOur room at Casas da Quinta da Cancela

      To Balugães

      14 juni, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      Beautiful countryside to walk through today and plenty of fellow Camino walkers to make the time fly by.

      Katie and Ingrid - A mother/daughter duo from Houston and Baltimore

      Shelly and JP - A married couple from North Carolina

      Eliana- A woman from Paris

      Charles - Man from Porto who encouraged Alan to try a couple of local food dishes, one called Rojões com Sarrabulho. When I heard it involved a pork blood porridge, it was a “no” from me.😂

      We have some hot days ahead of us. 😬 Temps will be 90 and above for the next four days so we will have to head out very early each day.

      We are walking to Ponte de Lima tomorrow and spending two nights. Thankfully, that will have us resting for one of the really hot days. Unfortunately, the hottest day (high of 99 degrees) is the day of our biggest climb up to Alto da Patela. 😩🥵 A Camino is never easy, but I’m really not a fan of hiking in really hot weather. I’m hoping the weather report is lying.😂
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    • To Barcelos

      13 juni, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

      By the time I finally plopped down on the bed we had walked 14 miles - 2.5 of those around Barcelos after we arrived.

      We are staying in the historic district of Barcelos and they are having a celebration that I think could go until the wee hours. The later it gets the louder it’s getting 😂

      Everything in the celebration is medieval themed 🏰 from the booth decorations, the music, and the performers (plus some regular people and kids) are dressed up. Even the kiddie rides are powered by hand cranks or pedaling. I had to try a cinnamon and sugar crepe that was cooked in a cast iron pan over a fire! 🔥

      Besides the celebration tonight, the best part of today may have been watching some local men play cards at a cafe. They were paired up on teams and it was lively!

      Tomorrow, we walk to Balugaes.
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    • To Sao Miguel de Arcos

      12 juni, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      Today = dodging cars, rating the difficulty of the cobbles, dealing with the uncertainty of rain, the smell of freshly fertilized corn fields and wishing for a cafe to rest our feet.

      Today also = crossing an ancient bridge, smelling the fragrant hydrangeas and listening to the wind through the eucalyptus trees.

      Most of the time it seemed we were the only pilgrims on the route, but then we caught up to Helen walked a with her a bit.

      Other pilgrims seen today:
      * Two more women from Taiwan (one named Melanie)
      * Three people from the Netherlands - a husband and wife and a man named Jerome (I think) 🙂

      We finally did make it to a cafe, although it was at the very end of our walk! 😂

      We were spoiled by our host tonight with a four course dinner that normally would have been WAY too much food for me. Obviously, we burned some calories today because we ate it all!

      Tomorrow, we will walk to Barcelos.
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    • To Mosteiro

      11 juni, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

      We have watched many Portuguese Camino Central videos and a couple of common themes that are talked about are the cobbles being rough to walk on and the non existent shoulder along the cobbled roads. We can attest that what they say is very true!

      We left our hotel around 7:00 am this morning and meandered through Porto carefully following the yellow arrows and checking my app multiple times to make sure we were on the correct route. It’s a little confusing at times because there are different routes you can take. We are on the Central Route.

      Porto and its suburbs seemed to go on forever! We spent almost all of our time either on sidewalks or cobbled roads, and it wasn’t until after about 10 miles of walking where we finally felt like we were in a more rural area.

      Rural, however, did not necessarily mean a lack of cars. Without a shoulder or sidewalk, we had to be alert to the cars coming our way. Alan said the drivers seem to think they are formula one racers, and our food tour guide had told us yesterday she felt being a good driver in Portugal was optional.😂 Thankfully, the cobbles are so loud we could hear the cars before we could see them.

      We stopped at a couple of little bakery/cafes on our way today. The people were so kind and patient with my sad attempts at Portuguese while ordering.

      We are staying in Mosteiro tonight at Casa dos Caminhos and there are two other pilgrims here tonight:

      First, there is Len, a young actor who left his home in Hamburg at 3:00 am flew to Porto, then went immediately to the cathedral in Porto and then walked here. He is exhausted! His pack is SO big and it’s his first time doing a Camino. He is beyond excited to be here! He brought a tent and he’s pitching it in the yard. ⛺️

      Then Helen, from Taiwan, who has gifted this journey to herself for her 65th birthday. She will turn 65 the day she walks into Santiago.🙂

      We enjoyed a nice dinner together and now it’s time to get some sleep. Tomorrow, we walk to Arcos…a smidge less than today.
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    • Porto Days 3 and 4

      9 juni, Portugal ⋅ 🌩️ 91 °F

      We have been walking all over Porto! It has been so fun just strolling up and down the streets and then sitting and, while having a drink, people watching.

      We did a Progressive Lunch tour today with Leo. She shared some history of the city and took us to some local places for tastings of local dishes. All of it was SO good! My favorites were the Bifana sandwich from the restaurant called Conga and the Francesinha from Capa Negra. I am still stuffed hours later!!

      Tomorrow, we start our walk to Santiago de Compostela. Our backpacks are packed and ready. We have stuffed all of the things we won’t need for the next two weeks into our one suitcase, and it is supposed to be picked up tomorrow by DHL and transported to Santiago. I’m crossing my fingers it makes it. 🤞🏻🤞🏻
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    • Porto Days 1 and 2

      8 juni, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

      We arrived in Porto and what a change from Ireland! We have gone from very cool weather to very warm sunshine ☀️. We have left the rural green fields for a densely populated historic city.

      We are in awe of the old buildings and especially the ones covered with tile! The city's historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a huge maze of narrow cobblestone streets and colorful buildings. I love the laundry hanging from windows to dry and the elderly women sitting on their tiny balconies watching the people below.

      We are staying across the Douro River in Villa Nova de Gaia at the House of Sandeman. We are surrounded by many Port wine makers and we had a fantastic tour of the Sandeman Cellars which included tastings of 10, 20, 30, and 40 year tawny ports. Alan was in heaven!

      Tomorrow, we will cross the river to stay right in the historic center.
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