• Slea Head

      5 juni, Irland ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

      Today might have been the best day of this trip! It was actually a Plan B that Tom had to come up with because the ocean waves were too big to go out to the Great Blasket Island.

      Tom drove us along Slea Head where we got to hang out with some sheep and then we got to spend some time at the Blasket Center, which honors the unique community who lived on the remote Blasket Islands until their evacuation in 1953.

      We then left the Center on foot and hiked along the edge of the coast with the Blasket Islands always in our view. It was much more meaningful, I think, to have learned so much about the people who had lived on the island instead of just hiking on it.

      Our hike today had the sound and view of the ocean waves, some rain at times, and some beautiful sun that made all of the green around us just pop. The big surprise had to be the beautiful horses that decided to join us at our lunch stop.

      On our way back to Dingle, we stopped at a pub where Tom played guitar and sang. It was a perfect end to the Ireland part of our trip, and a perfect soundtrack for today’s video.💕🙂🇮🇪

      Tonight, we are packing up to take the train back to Dublin tomorrow. I will post again after we are settled in Porto to begin “Part 2” of our trip.
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    • Old Kenmare Road

      4 juni, Irland ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

      I had to put on my head net today to guard against the pesky midges…so glad I brought it! Whenever we stopped for a break, if the wind had died down, they would try to land on our faces or in our ears…😬🦟

      We were hiking part of The Kerry Way along the Old Kenmare Road today. Old Kenmare Road is a historic walking route between Kenmare and Killarney in Ireland, once the main connection between the two towns.

      It was much cooler with off and on blustery showers, so I didn’t take many pics or video. Plus, I have an excuse…I was fending off the midges!🤣.

      Tonight, we are in Dingle. We are here for two nights. I am trying to recover from eating way too much at Danno’s with our group…such great food and a lot of laughs.🙂
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    • Donal "Dux" O'DonoghueThe Hugging TreeKenmareKenmare Church

      Lakes of Killarney

      3 juni, Irland ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

      An unbelievable character of a man named Donal “Dux” O’Donoghue met us in Killarney National Park and drove us to his boat launch at the foot of Ross Castle which, by the way, was actually owned by the O’Donoghue Clan in the 14th Century. 😲

      Dux loaded us up in his boat and took us across the Middle Lake, under Old Weir Bridge and to the meeting of the waters. We then went down the long range river before arriving at Lord Brandon’s Cottage.

      The lakes and surrounding scenery were beautiful, but it was the stories that Dux told which really made the experience memorable.

      After lunch at the cottage, we hiked part of the Kerry Way back to the van, going along the lake and then up through the oak forest.

      We are now back to our hotel in Kenmare after a great dinner. Tomorrow, we will be hiking on the Old Kenmare Road.
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    • The Famine and Sheep’s Head Lighthouse

      2 juni, Irland ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      Before we went on our hike to Sheep’s Head Lighthouse, we stopped in Skibbereen to learn more about the Great Famine (1845-1852) and how devastating it was to the area.

      The Skibbereen area lost over a third of its people during the Great Famine. We were able to read the first hand accounts by a Dr. Donovan reporting on the disease, starvation and death from that area. It was extremely difficult to read, heartbreaking and unimaginable. 😢
      Between 8,000 and 10,000 unidentified souls from Skibbereen are buried in the infamous Famine burial pits.

      My pictures today are mainly from our hike at Sheep’s Head and the town of Bantry, but the devastating history of the Famine is the biggest memory from today.

      A little side note: We have to give our guide, Tom, huge kudos for dealing with an unexpected flat tire on the van 🚐 while on our way this morning. In his words, “It was just a little bit of drama”. 🙂
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    • The Beacon and Cape Clear Island

      1 juni, Irland ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

      Today was absolutely stunning!!

      Accomplishments of today:

      1. We hiked to the huge Baltimore Beacon and didn’t get blown over by the wind. 💨

      2. We survived a WILD ferry ride over to Cape Clear Island.!!! I have never been on a boat going over such huge waves. I felt like I was a fisherman on an episode of “Deadliest Catch”. A few people on the boat had to make a beeline to the bathroom 🤢 and one poor girl just put her head against the wall and closed her eyes waiting for it to be over.

      I tried to film it, but I just had to keep my eyes on an island and focus on that.

      3. We spent four hours on Cape Clear Island. Besides hiking all around the island we first stopped at Claire Goats to experience milking a goat and to taste some really good goat milk ice cream. The best part was listening to farm owner (Ed Harper) sing to his goats to calm them down. His song is the music for today’s video. 🙂🎶🐐

      Tomorrow, we are crossing our fingers for good weather for our hike to Sheep’s Head Lighthouse.
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    • Castle Freke and a High Cross

      31 maj, Irland ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      We took a train to Cork and met our guide, Tom, who took us on a hike along Long Strand Beach and then by Castle Freke. The end of our hike brought us up the hill to Carbery Memorial High Cross before heading back down to the beach. Lord Carbery must have been very well loved for his wife to erect such an ornate tall cross in his honor. 💕

      We enjoyed the friendly people in our group- Bill and Sharon from Vancouver, Canada and Michelle from Chicago. But, I think the highlight was hiking by a castle! That was pretty cool! 🏰 Alan may say his highlight was the bucket of fresh mussels he had for dinner. 🙂

      We’re spending two nights in Baltimore and tomorrow we take a ferry ⛴️ to Cape Clear Island.
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    • Kilkenny

      30 maj, Irland ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      We took the train from Dublin to spend the day in Kilkenny. We climbed the round tower at St. Canice’s Cathedral, we saw The Black Abbey, and we walked the Medieval Mile and toured Kilkenny Castle.

      My Fleming ancestors came from Kilkenny, so it was special to walk through the town knowing many of the old structures were around when they lived there. At St. Canice’s Cathedral, a volunteer asked me what was the last name of my ancestors. When I said Fleming, she said WAY back in Kilkenny’s history (the 1300’s) there was an area south of Kilkenny Castle that was referred to as “in villae Flamingorum Kilkennie”: the town of the Flemish in Kilkenny - a strongly walled and gated suburb surrounded by towers, called Flemynstown. Pretty awesome to hear that!

      Tomorrow, we take a train to Cork to meet our guide for some hiking. We’re crossing our fingers on the weather 🤞🏻🤞🏻 We had a gorgeous day today, but we may get some rain over the next week.
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    • 14 Henrietta Street/Literary Pub Crawl

      29 maj, Irland ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

      Two things on our agenda for today:

      First, we went to 14 Henrietta Street for a very touching tour of the building. 14 Henrietta Street has over 300 years of people’s lives in its walls. We heard the personal stories of those who called 14 Henrietta Street home, starting with the rich in the 1700s who occupied it as a single family and then the horrible hardships of the poor who lived there when it housed 100 people. Almost 1000 people lived on the short Henrietta street in tenement housing, and the living conditions they endured were unimaginable. 😞

      Tonight, we got to experience a Literary Pub Crawl where we enjoyed some Irish ballads, met some wonderful local young men and heard the words of Joyce, Wilde, Yeats, Shaw and many others acted out as we moved from pub to pub. The last pub was often frequented by James Joyce and it has a first edition copy of his book, Ulysses displayed, along with a photograph of Sylvia Beach who is known for her Paris bookstore, Shakespeare and Company, where she published James Joyce's book Ulysses in 1922…great evening!

      Tomorrow, we’re taking a train to Kilkenny, where some of my ancestors were born. 🙂
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    • 1916 Rebellion Tour

      28 maj, Irland ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      We were so engrossed in our tour today, I didn’t take many pictures. But here’s what we learned:

      Imagine being in the middle of Dublin on Easter Monday in 1916, just walking around like normal, and suddenly a group of Irish rebels shows up and takes over the General Post Office — literally just walks in, kicks everyone out, and plants a flag declaring Ireland is now a free republic.

      Our guide, Adam, walked us around Dublin, sharing about the Easter Rising, and how it was one of the first major steps toward Irish independence.

      We could even see bullet damage on the post office as he told us about Patrick Pearse, a poet and teacher, who read the “Proclamation of the Republic “ in front of the building. There were other leaders too, like James Connolly, who was more of a socialist and led this group called the Irish Citizen Army, and even Countess Markievicz, who was this badass aristocrat woman with a gun fighting alongside the men. In fact many women played key roles in the fight.

      They had a group of about 1,200 rebels and held out in several buildings around Dublin — the General Post Office being the main Headquarters. But the British army didn’t exactly take it lightly. They sent in thousands of troops, artillery, and even shelled the city. After six days, the rebels had to surrender.

      At first, most people in Ireland weren’t really on their side. They thought it was a bit reckless, especially with all the destruction. But when the British executed the leaders, public opinion totally flipped. People started to see them as martyrs.

      We were surprised to hear Irish Americans played a huge role in all of this. There were guys in the U.S. like John Devoy who were sending money, and organizing weapons, Plus, the support from the Irish communities in places like New York and Boston — was massive. They kept the cause alive overseas. So even though the Rising itself was ended quickly, it lit the spark that eventually led to Irish independence a few years later.
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    • Travel Day to Dublin

      27 maj, Irland ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

      We are ending our very long day traveling to Dublin right now and thought I would put down in writing why we are hopping around to so many places in Europe this spring/summer. Last summer when we were trying to decide where we wanted to travel next. Ireland came up in our conversation as did the Portuguese Camino. We asked ourselves, “Could we do both?”

      After researching some guided hiking trips in Ireland, we chose a hiking and island hopping small group trip with a company called Wilderness Ireland and booked it for the end of May. Then, we added on a flight to Porto, Portugal on June 7th so we could walk the 151 miles to Santiago de Compostela in Spain.

      While we were calculating the date we would get to Santiago, we realized we were getting close to when the Tour de France would begin in Lille, France on July 5th. It has been a dream of Alan’s to see a stage of the Tour, so I snagged a couple of nights in Lille so we could be there for it. Since we had eight days in between Santiago and Lille, and we have never spent time in Paris (other than the airport), that became the next part of the trip. We will then end our trip with a day in Brussels before we fly back to Dublin and on to home.

      It seems like it’s going to be kind of a whirlwind type of trip, but also exciting! We are exhausted from our overnight flight, but we rallied today with some exploring and a little pub time.

      Tomorrow’s agenda:
      1. Sleep in!!
      2. First Irish breakfast of the trip
      3. 1916 Rebellion Walking Tour
      4. More exploring 🙂
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