Spain
Antequera

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    • Day 46

      The ‘Tapas Tour That Never Was’ in Jerez

      February 17 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      It’s Chris’ birthday today and we were looking forward to a lunchtime tapas tour. The Get Your Guide ad wrote, “With your guide and small group limited to 15, you’ll visit traditional Spanish tapas joints to sample three local dishes accompanied by three drinks.”

      It sounded like a fun activity with a small group of English-speaking people but it didn’t happen …

      Chris and I went to the designated meeting spot at 12 p.m. and due to the Carnaval activities the whole area was full of groups of people. And I mean full! Hundreds of people milling around with small groups that were dancing and singing and acting. Where could our guide be? No one had a colourful umbrella or funny hat or a stick with a flower on it. So we missed the tour…but…

      I remember reading a review that had mentioned Tio Pepe’s famous winery so we headed there and hoped that the group was there. On the way, we met a couple of Canadians who travel a lot, Jenny and Bruce, from Victoria who were looking for their tour too but they were on a Sherry tour.

      We asked if the tapas tour was here, and the lady at the counter said that we could join the English Sherry Tour that was starting in a few minutes. Sounded like a good alternative!

      Here’s their little write up - “Imagine travelling by train through Tio Pepe’s vineyards and gardens, strolling among ancient wine cellars with more than 180 years of history, and discovering the incredible flavours and aromas of the best sherry wines.” That tour was followed up by a Sherry tasting and tapas.

      Chris was very happy with the tour. He especially enjoyed checking out the signatures and messages of famous people written on the big barrels. They have a lovely tradition there, encouraging important visitors to sign the barrels which are painted a chalkboard-like black to highlight any leaks. We saw the signatures of celebrities like Lana Turner, Steven Spielberg and Orson Welles. Artists including Picasso – the only one to sign in colour. Political figures like Margaret Thatcher, Winston Churchill and Chelsea Clinton. And musicians like Cole Porter.

      We joined Jenny and Bruce in the tasting room and enjoyed sharing travel stories while sampling the sherry, or was it wine? They are very interesting and interested people.

      Three hours later, we walked the short distance home at the height of Carnaval activities. Actually we stopped for a drink and more tapas, and people watched. There was so much fun stuff to see! Funny costumes, bands and lots of little dogs. There are a lot of dachshunds and Maltese terriers in Spain. Lol.

      When we got home, I contacted the Get Your Guide people, they contacted the tour people who contacted me with what had happened and said that they are sending us a refund. All in all a good ending to a rough start. And the Sherry Tour was free!

      Happy Birthday dear Chris! (And to his twin sister, Hilary, too!).
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    • Day 36

      Antequera’s Ancient Dolmens

      February 7 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Antequera has one of the largest and most important prehistoric burial sites in Spain, dating from the Bronze Age (3,500 B.C.) They are among the oldest objects on the planet and they are located only a short walk away from where we are living, on the outskirts of town.

      The Antequera Dolmens are essentially Spain’s Stonehenge and were declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2016. They are 1,200 years older than Stonehenge in England.

      A dolman is a single chamber tomb consisting of two of more vertical megaliths supporting a large flat horizontal table of stone, then covered with earth so it is like an oval, underground stone igloo. From the outside, they just look like a big hill.

      They were used for holy rituals and funerals. The Antequera dolmens are unique in that they face mountainscapes, instead of the sun.

      Two of them, Menga and Viera, were constructed between 3000 and 3500 B.C. The third one, El Romeral, was built around 2500 B.C. Menga is the largest and oldest of the three. It’s been called one the “best preserved marvels on earth.” Its roof is estimated to weigh 200 tons.

      We visited the first two dolmans after watching a very informative video in the interpretive centre. It showed a theory of how the blocks were cut and how they were moved from the quarry that is 1 km away. Pretty amazing considering that these dolmans were built with primitive tools, close to 6,000 years ago. It reminded us of how experts think the pyramids in Egypt were built. Where there’s a will, there’s a way!

      The Menga Dolmen in the largest in Europe at nearly 30m long. The largest upright stone weighs 180 tonnes. By way of comparison, the heaviest stone at Stonehenge, in Wiltshire in the UK, weighs 40 tonnes.

      Its height gradually increases from 2.7m at the entrance to 3.5m at the far end. The widest point is 6m towards the back. There are three pillars that support four enormous 250-tonne roof stones.

      Each side is made of 12 four metre tall upright stones and one stone closing the far end. The roof is made of five stones; a sixth that was placed over the entrance is missing. The tomb is covered by a 50m-diameter cover of stones and soil.

      If you are inside and you look down the passage, you can the Peña de los Enamorados or the Indian Head framed in the entrance. That’s the mountain that I talked about in an earlier blog. During the the summer solstice, the sun rises directly over the peak and shines into the chamber.

      Another dolman is aligned towards the Torcal mountain that we hiked in, the other day.
      Apparently, these dolmans are the only ones in continental Europe that are aligned towards a natural landmark.

      A mystery re the Menga dolman. At the back of this giant dolmen, in the centre of the floor, is a 30m (100 feet!) deep well perfectly carved from the bedrock and with water at its bottom. But why is it here? Some people think that the Romans built it. But why? There is a lot of water around the site. Why such a deep well?

      Four kilometres down the road, there is another dolman that is much newer, built during the late Copper Age, 1,800 B.C. It has 2 chambers and a very long hallway.The walls are made of small pieces of limestone, like bricks rather than the giant stones used earlier. It still has the giant slabs on the roof though.

      It was hard to keep our hands to ourselves. We just wanted to feel the history in the stones…
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    • Day 41

      The Textile Industry in Antequera

      February 12 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      It’s raining off and on again today. Happy Farmers! We are only here for another 3 days and still so much to explore. Antequera is not a big city with 42,000 people but it has such a big history and is located at the confluence of 4 rivers and in a valley. Perfect for farming.

      Looking at our city map, we realized that we could visit a few of the 32 very old churches as we haven’t seen any yet or visit one of the 11 monasteries or convents or check out the textile museum that is on the other side of the fortress. We are a little tired of the churches so we decided to walk with umbrellas to the textile museum.

      For centuries flour and olive oil mills had been situated on the rivers, along with water wheels, dyeing troughs and small forges. During the 15th Century, the textile industry took off in Antequera.

      The quality of the fabrics was so good that King Charles III of Spain designated the factory as a Royal Factory in 1765. In the mid-19th century, the factory was modernized and became the centre of the cotton, linen and wool textile industry.

      In the 20th century, isolated towns, ineffective trade and strong competition in other national markets, created a crisis. The textile industry came to its end in Antequera in the 1970s.

      Anyways, we interrupted a man who was eating his breakfast to ask if we could see the museum. He kindly unlocked the door and told us to check out the displays at our leisure.

      The permanent exhibit downstairs explained how the textiles were made in Antequera with examples of the old machinery, tools and materials and also photographs and other graphic documents. When we were stuck with understanding the Spanish technical words, we used Google translate. It was great!

      We noticed a little map on the table and realized that there was a 3 km road/trail that ran beside the river with all the old Textile factories on it. It looked interesting so we opened up our umbrellas again and went for a walk.

      The small Villa River supplies water to the town of Antequera. What remains of the old factories are the irrigation channels, aqueducts, bridges and chimneys, Some buildings have been renovated by their owners, while others remain in ruins or have been neglected. The machines have all disappeared. One man who owned one of the big buildings was wondering if we wanted to buy it with a bunch of our friends!

      The walk was peaceful and quite beautiful. It didn’t rain the whole time and we got our exercise for the day in, almost 7 km.
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    • Day 38

      “Spanish Farmers Join Wave of Protests”

      February 9 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

      We have been hearing about the farmers’ protests in Barcelona and Malaga but today, in quiet Antequera, the protests were In action. Mind you, a lot of honking but not for long and very organized.

      A parade of tractors came down our street in the pouring rain and it was awesome to see. There were about 80 clean tractors coming from both directions and it was actually pretty exciting. The school kids across the street were sticking their heads out of the windows and cheering. Lol. Quickly, the windows closed and it was obvious that teachers had something to do with that.

      Here’s an abridged article that I read about the protests.

      Spanish Farmers Join Waves of Protest

      By Guy Hedgecoe abridged
      BBC News, Aranda de Duero

      Farmers in Spain have joined their European counterparts in staging protests across the country.

      Like farmers elsewhere, they demand more flexibility from the European Union, tighter controls on the produce of non-EU countries and more help from their government.

      On Tuesday, farmers took to the streets of agricultural areas in Spain's northern interior, driving tractors in convoys, beeping horns, waving Spanish flags and brandishing placards.

      Spain's farmers have similar grievances to their counterparts in France, Belgium, the Netherlands, Italy and other countries that have been protesting recently.
      They say that regulations which form part of the EU's Common Agricultural Policy (CAP), along with high fuel and energy costs, make it difficult for them to make a profit.

      The costs, when it comes to producing wheat and barley, are very high," said Esteban, a cereal farmer who preferred not to give his surname who was protesting in Aranda de Duero. "You've got to pay for fertiliser, pesticides, fuel - it's killing us. We have to pay very high prices and yet we sell at low prices."

      “We just want a future for farming and right now, we don't see it."

      The plight of Spanish farmers has been compounded by drought. Many areas of the country have not seen normal levels of rain in recent months which is affecting harvests. Spain is the world's biggest olive oil producer, but prices have been pushed up by low production. Last week, Catalonia declared a state of emergency due to a three-year drought, the longest on record.
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    • Day 40

      Citytour die Zweite 🏰⛪️🌞

      January 22 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

      Heute wandern wir den zweiten Teil von Antequera ab. Bis zum Eingang der Stadt mit der Stierkampf Arena 🐃. Wir schlengeln uns durch kleine Gassen und hingegen zum Vortag, ist es heute wuseliger...Es ist Montag 🤷🏻‍♀️. Viele chic gekleidete Spanier sind auf den Beinen.
      Am späten Nachmittag erreichen wir das Womo und genießen noch die letzten Sonnenstrahlen bei einem Bierchen 🍺 und schauen dem Treiben hier auf dem Platz zu.
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    • Day 35

      The Fortress on the Hill

      February 6 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Today, we were like kids exploring an old castle without supervision.

      The Alcazaba, fortress, is on a hill and just a 10 - 15 minute walk way from our apartment. We can see it from our balcony. We waited until today to visit it as it has free entry on Tuesday afternoons.

      By the way, a Alcazaba or Alcazar is a castle for the leaders in a small city. It included a mosque and houses for the soldiers and workers of the palace and walls to protect the leaders against external attacks and against local revolts.

      We walked up the hill, always up, and found the church beside the castle. It isn’t actually a functioning church any more. Many of its art pieces were moved to another church in 1692. It’s only used for lectures and concerts now. But inside there were a few interesting objects. One was a very large stone ball for a trebuchet, a giant slingshot, that was a weapon used in medieval times. Several of these balls were found in the area.

      Another object was a huge parade float a Tarasca, of a woman on a dragon with 7 heads!
      This particular object has seven heads, echoing the seven deadly sins and the dragon from the Apocalypse. The woman represents faith and the triumph of Christ over sin.

      From the church, we used Google maps to try to find the entrance to the castle but along with several other people, we ended up doing a big circle around the castle and not finding it. The walk was great but the signage was not. Eventually a local pointed the way and we had to retrace our steps.

      Once we found our way in, we were on our own - no guide and little signage. We just explored and it was fun. There were several areas where we had to use our imaginations to figure what the area was used for it was all good. The dungeon was a deep, dark hole in the ground and the well had the typical curved roof and a fountain.

      The highlight for us was to climb up to the top of the big clock/bell tower. It houses the original clock and bell. The pendulum was a huge rock. A little daunting but with great views over the city. We just started going down when the bell started ringing. That was a shocker! Thank heavens we weren’t standing next to it!

      We learned a new word - barbican - which is a 2nd defensive wall on the outside of the castle.

      Antequera has a very long history. It’s name comes from the Roman period: “Antikaria” which means “ancient town”. Apart from a few historical records and some inscriptions there was no evidence of a Roman Anticaria until 1988, when excavations at the foot of the hill unearthed public baths which are dated from the 3rd century AD. The area they found was small, but it had all the facilities of a typical Roman bath, including three pools (hot, tepid and cold), and a place for exercising. Pieces of the mosaic tiles for floors are in the museum.

      The main access to the fortress is through a gate they call the Arch of the Giants. It was built in the mid-16th century. The wall is more than 2 metres thick and has Latin inscriptions relating to both Anticaria itself and other Roman cities that existed in its vicinity. There are also four large tombstones embedded in it.

      After a couple of hours of exploring and fantasizing,, we were ready for a cold beer and something to eat. We stopped at a little restaurant called LouLus and had a wonderful late lunch. Seafood brioche, bbq ribs and fries and ice cream. We’ll probably go back!

      P.S. Pretty soon I am going to need a break from all that walking up and down stairs and hills!
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    • Day 46

      El Torcal - Antequera,

      February 10, 2020 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      🚘
      Genug vom Meer.
      Jetzt geht es erstmal wieder ins Landesinnere.
      Nächstes Ziel ist El Torcal.
      Wunderschöne Felsformation in 1200m Höhe.
      Bei der letzten Auffahrt kann es an zwei Stellen etwas eng werden, wenn ein Bus entgegen kommt, aber es lohnt sich.
      Leider darf man oben auf dem großen Parkplatz nicht übernachten.
      Den Anblick beim Aufstehen mit dem passenden Sonnenaufgang male ich mir toll aus.
      Unten gibt es zwar noch einen Parkplatz, der war uns aber zu einsam.
      So sind wir weiter gefahren nach Antequera.
      Stehen dort am Gemeindestellplatz am Sportplatz.
      Kostenlos mit guter VE.
      Der Ort selbst hat uns nicht viel geboten.
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    • Day 25

      Antequera

      January 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Rund 40 Kirchen und Konvente lassen sich hier besichtigen. Schon im Zentrum, das sich als Ausgangspunkt für einen ausgedehnten Bummel durch die Altstadt hervorragend eignet, steht die prächtige Iglesia de San Sebastián mit ihrem reich geschmückten Innenraum. Besonders sehenswert ist auch die Renaissancekirche Santa María la Mayor, die hoch über Antequera an einer alten Festung am Felsen thront. Dort ist zur Zeit allerdings eine Ausstellung von „ Herr der Ringe“ . Ich fand es etwas seltsam.

      Von der Burg fällt der Blick auf die Reste altrömischer Thermen und auf den in der Ferne liegenden Felsberg Peña de los Enamorados (Felsen der Verliebten), der von einer tragischen Liebesgeschichte erzählt und dessen Form an ein den Himmel anflehendes Gesicht erinnert.

      Oberhalb der Kirche warten die Reste des Castillo mit maurischen, römischen, sowie christlichen Elementen darauf, besichtigt zu werden, u.a. der gut erhaltene Wehrturm Torre del Homenaje. Nach dem Abstieg an den alten Stadtmauern entlang, laden im Ortskern diverse Museen und Bars zum verweilen ein.

      Ein paar Minuten vom Stadtzentrum entfernt liegen die Dolmenstätten von Antequera, die seit Juli 2016 zählen zum UNESCO-Welterbe von Andalusien gehören.
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    • Day 17

      dolmans of antequera menga dolman

      May 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      this is the oldest Dolman with pillars. the guide who was hosting told us that they think it was later used as a livestock pen as there are squared out indentations for wood and some rubbings against the side that indicates goats or sheep may have been there. also gypsy families have lived in it. there are smoke Marks from their fires. there is a well in this as well and it was quite deep.Read more

    • Day 30

      The Incredible Granada Cathedral

      February 1 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

      I have run out of adjectives to use for all the ‘Wow’ places we have visited. The word ‘incredible’ just doesn’t cut it when describing this cathedral. Chris and I have seen many beautiful cathedrals but we both feel that this one is one of the most beautiful.

      Queen Isabella ordered the construction of the Cathedral of Granada in 1505, shortly after the capture of the city in 1492. The first stone of the Cathedral was laid in 1523 and its construction lasted 181 years. It was finished in 1704.

      We were given a code to use with our phones and we followed numbered posts, getting a self-guided tour this way and at our pace.

      It was an incredible place!

      Now onto the Royal Chapel.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Antequera, أنتقيرة, Антекера, 29200, 安特克拉

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