Espanja
Armenteira

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    • Päivä 15

      No end to unexpected events

      14. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      So, adventures have ensued since I last updated. Expect the unexpected, it's really the motto of the journey, but things happen that would be impossible to anticipate in normal life.

      Today alone we've climbed a mountain, been in an impromptu patio party, and I've been given the pilgrims blessing personally by a Trappist monk. Really you can't make this stuff up, no one would believe you. Unless they had been on Camino I suppose.

      Yesterday we spent the morning touring the 9th century old town of Pontevedra. First stop the Iglesia de la Virgen Peregrina, the scallop shaped chapel where we attended the service last night. A happy surprise, there we run into Miriam. She is spending a day alone after leaving Redondela walking with Beatrice and Lidia ( we finally discover the Irish girls name). And she relates, where they stopped for lunch yesterday they sat with a Korean man who pulled out his phone to show our picture and ask if anyone had seen us! Given the brotherhood status Krisli has assigned to himself and Brad, we note he is taking his fraternal duties seriously! Honestly it's heartwarming how these connections can happen. We have so much support and concern from home too, it's just incredible.

      Brad's leg is improving, at least enough for him to continue walking. It's probably not ideal and I'm sure at home he would just be resting it. But he's still unwilling to give up, especially this close.

      The rest of the day was a bit tougher walk to nearby Combarro than we expected. It was hot, lots of hills, and we arrived later than expected. To discover our accommodation was almost impossible to find, we had to phone the host, who didn't speak English, for help. Finally he sent a video for directions. The number by the door had zero relationship to the listed address, and I had about zero patience left!

      But, divested of packs, showered and fresh, we decide to go try and locate Furancho a de Pepe. And arrive just at opening time, where we are served fresh cold, not quite sparkling Albarino wine in the traditional ceramic cuncas. And proceed to enjoy a veritable feast, including a dish we ordered accidentally. Something lost in translation 😊. The place is filling up, we are surrounded by happy animated chatter. All enjoying food and wines made right here, in this modest premises, by the family. Pepe hosts and pours generously, his wife bustling in the kitchen. It's a great end to the day.

      This morning, up and at it, there's a mountain to ascend! At least this time I was counting on a steep climb of 9 to 10 km. After 5 or so though it levelled off for a while. We hopscotch the way with a family of 4 from Singapore, elderly parents and middle age "kids" like us. Walk for a way with an Aussie who's a bit faster than us and goes on ahead.

      We arrive at Armenteira so much earlier than I expected, by 11:30. For once we're early and there's nothing to see, it seems! So we find the only open cafe in town, where our Aussie is already ensconced, drinking a beer. He's waiting for his walking group to arrive, but first come the Singapore family - Singapore in the house, our Aussie calls out to greet them, and there's a bit of a group cheer. Not too much later his group arrives. Two Italian girls and one Hungarian, Irina, Katrina, and Ester. We've seen them over the last couple days too. So it's a big enough group of walkers enjoying the patio sunshine. Spontaneous, enjoyable.

      As most are moving on, we go to the nearby Mosteiro de Armenteira. This Cistercian monastery has been here since around 1162. It's modest, simple, so peaceful. After a look around, we see the monk who gives us the stamp for our credentials. He speaks English perfectly, he's also the chaplain to the nuns here. They make a lot of products in the monastery for sale, soaps, creams, medals, liqueurs. Brad can't resist buying a small bottle of eucalyptus liqueur. We're going to have to leave most of it behind, but oh well.

      And so, a couple of easy km later, we are in much more luxurious accommodations, and it's still early enough to do laundry!

      To round out a big day, we head back to the village for a late dinner, where we run into Beatrice, share dinner and an orujo, traditional Galician liquor, and are back at the hotel in time for a cappuccino sunset.

      And that eucalyptus liqueur? Smelled like a combination of mouthwash and cough syrup😅. The taste? Divine, who knew!
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    • Päivä 7

      Camino Day 5 to Armenteira

      10. elokuuta 2022, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Holly didn’t feel well so she took a cab and I walked alone. Walked at a fast pace and even ran some. Steep, steep hills today! Met lots of pilgrims from all over—Denmark, Spain, Portugal, Germany, Columbia, Italy, Hungary and finally someone from US. Pilgrims blessing service at the monastery in the evening.Lue lisää

    • Päivä 6

      Combarro to Armenteira

      13. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Brierley told us that this was a mountainous slog of a day. Maybe not long on mileage but 'mucho arriba'. We started with a 2k walk back into Combarro, more to get the legs warmed up than anything else. Walking by the side of a busy road is not much fun.

      In Combarro a left turn got us back onto the Camino. From the word go, the climbing started. If you're struggling to picture the steepness think back to the Hovis advert, then tilt the TV by 20 degrees. There were sections where I struggled to stand still.
      Then the sun made its presence known. It always seemed that at the steepest parts there was no shade. But there were things to look at to distract the mind. Many crucerios. Many horreas. Old abandoned doors leading to forgotten places. The view back down to the bay at Combarro.

      Eventually the road was finished with and the path turned to forrest track and senda. With the forrest came shade. And silence. We'd left the hoards behind. The coach pilgrims weren't going to tackle terrain like this. I saw three people the entire day and only spoke with one of them. Bliss.

      The Miradouro do Loureiro was reached but with the sun directly in the eyes the view wasn't that good.

      Back on the path I fancied I could hear something moving in the forest to the right of me. I guess we've always been slightly afraid when in thick forests. Fearful of the unknown and unseen. But I did feel a presence. It was almost a relief when I found eyes looking back at me. Horses!

      Arriba, arriba, arriba. But gentle now. A lovely walk. The next challenge came at Outeiro Do Cribo. Could I find the petrogilfos? Nope. These are carvings made into the rock. Hereabouts. But the exact hereabouts eluded me.

      Enough. Onwards. There then started the first real descent of this route since Vigo. Steep and a mixture of boulders and loose gravel. But thankfully short. Within 20 minutes the Monasterio at Armenteira was reached..... and the Chapel closed. Which was expected, as it's closed to pilgrims until October. But it was possible to walk round the cloisters and the was the promise of a pilgrim blessing at 19:00, with Mass the following morning at 07:30.

      Immediately next to the monastery is a large cantina serving food and drinks. My companions bocadillos were mahoosive and my chicken hidden surprise filled a gap. What's not to like.

      Later, back in the cloister waiting for the chapel doors to open for the evening service it quickly became apparent that the appeal for silence had fallen on deaf ears. The door opened and the surge to 'get a good seat' was frantic. The obligatory chattering started again. The Cistercian sisters gathered and vespers began. Some people left immediately. Others chatted amongst themselves. The pitch started high and got higher as the psalms progressed. This was no Gregorian chant though. Ignoring the instructions in Sacrosanctum Concillium we plodded on with a modern rendition of the Divine Office.

      After the Magnificat we got to the pilgrims blessing. In Spanish, Portuguese, Italian and English.

      "May the light and love of God bless and direct your steps. May the road rise up to meet you. May you open your heart to silence and keep with gratitude the joyus rememberance of the good things that you have encountered. May God carry you in His hands to the arms of St James in Santiago. May you go back to your home full of light and joy. Through Jesus Christ Our Lord"

      Back in my room I got ready for sleep only to have one of the legs fall off the bed. It was going to be a long and difficult night.

      Executive Summary. Some of the best walking I've had on a Camino, but still about 10 degrees too hot.
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    • Päivä 4

      Armenteira around town

      9. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

      Walked around town after the pilgrim's blessing. Saw the pousada (this was my other choice if the monastery was not available) and took a quick glimpse inside the small cemetery.

      As I was walking back to start packing and calling it a night, I met a couple of pinays! I didn't think I'd see Filipinos on the variante, but here they are! I will try to meet with them at Vilanova tomorrow for dinner. 😊Lue lisää

    • Päivä 5

      Ruta da Pedra e da Agua

      10. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

      Per sister Paula's suggestion, I heard mass at 730am before going on my camino for the day. I'm so glad I listened to her because I wouldn't have enjoyed it had I gone very early - nothing would be visible. at 8:30am, everything was beautiful.

      This is by far the most beautiful part of my entire camino. 😍
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    • Päivä 6

      Armenteira

      24. huhtikuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      We did great today. 15 miles walking in just under 8 hours. The day started off in town with a bunch of pilgrims. We stopped in an old pilgrim church for a quick prayer. After a few miles, we split off, taking the Spiritual Variant which is more remote and less traveled, but will take us back to the coast later, where we will do our planned boat ride. We walked up, way up, into the mountains. It was beautiful and peaceful, with just enough other pilgrims around so we didn't feel too isolated. Watched the low tide oyster collection, drank sodas locals left in coolers for pilgrims, and enjoyed a cold beer after emerging from the mountains. It was a harder walking day but since we approach every hike like we're just going on a walk, it was chill and fun. Pictures and descriptions can't depict even 20% of the experience but here's some pics.Lue lisää

    • Päivä 18

      Nuts! 🌰

      25. syyskuuta 2022, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      We went for a walk in the forest and came back with like two kilos of wild chestnut. We also had freshly made churro halfway since there was a man selling them in front of the monastery for 1€, who could ever resist that? Ahh it's hard to not to gain weight here! 😁Lue lisää

    • Päivä 23

      Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua

      4. lokakuuta 2022, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Such a beautiful path. It was quite magical, very lush and peaceful. The only noise was the birds and the water. Many waterfalls, ruins of old mills, and nice soft trail.

    • Päivä 19

      Combarro to Armenteira

      2. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      400 m climb over the mountain to the Armenteira monastery

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