Fresnedilla

Yesterday after lunch I went to the park and chatted with the señoras. The women sit in the park, the men in benches along the road. Just as the women had given me instructions on how to get to the church with several Roman milestones on display, one of the Japanese peregrinos came up, so we went off together. We had a limited conversation, given my non-existent Japanese and his limited English. He told me how he had had to end his first camino early because he got really sick from losing too much weight. He explained that eating in Japan is just as much about the visuals as the taste. If it’s not beautiful, he won’t eat it. Except on the Camino. I thought of Osamu’s words later that night as I looked at my sautéed chicken breast and French fries.

As usually happens when I get a good night sleep in a private room, I was awake at 5. Finally got up at 5:30, and after coffee, yoghurt and fruit, I resisted the urge to leave before 6:30. There was a little daylight then and I wanted to get started because it was a long day, and the temps are pushing 80. Right at the exit of town I saw a headlamp and a backpack— a confused young Brit I hadn’t yet met was starting out on the wrong path. It was a good coincidence because it’s always nicer to start out in the dark with someone else. In the hour or so that we walked together, I learned that everything he owns (except for one small box in Switzerland) is in that pack and that he has essentially been walking for the last two years. He also told me that I should have just walked right through that herd of cattle yesterday, just making sure not too get to close to a calf.

The early morning walk was just gorgeous with those oaks, meadows, flowers. There were so many different gates to open and close that it was impossible to know if I was going into a cattle pasture, out of one, or just from one to another. But soon enough it happened again— off to the right a little ahead of me I saw a big group of them walking towards the camino. And lots of little babies!!! I decided that the best strategy was to try to get ahead of them. So I turned left and ran ahead. BUT... the reason these meadows are so green and so resplendent with wildflowers of all colors is because the ground is essentially an over soaked sponge. With totally soaked feet I made it back to the Camino ahead of where they eventually crossed it. Luckily the second encounter was with a bunch of lazy cows, so I passed them easily.

Aside from the cows, the clear highlight of this stage was the 1st century Arch of Caparra, where I took a long break. Amazing. A group of Germans thought I was more amazing and spent more time talking to me than seeing the ruins.

The afternoon kms were mainly off-road and very nice. I will probably take s very short day tomorrow. Can’t believe that I have only four days left!!!Read more