Spain
Extremadura

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    • Day 44

      Grenze Portugal/Spanien, Badajoz

      March 19, 2020 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      392 Km gefahren.
      Nun wir sind doch heute noch losgefahren, weil in Portugal der Notstand ausgerufen wurde. Keine Kneipe und Gaststätte hat mehr auf..die Menschen Sollen alle in ihren Wohnungen bleiben.
      Am wunderschönen Strand soll keiner mehr sein..damit es dort keine Massenveranstaltung gibt weil alle zu Hause sind.
      Die sozialen Kontakte werden massiv eingeschränkt..ja,wir hätten mit Hundchen nur kleine Spaziergänge machen können..die Menschen sind zutiefst unglücklich.es gibt keine Arbeit mehr, alles ist zu..keine Boote fahren mehr, die Stadt ist tot..und deshalb wird sich auch der Zustand der Menschen verändern,bis hin zur Aggressivität.
      Auch unterwegs ist alles wirklich unwirklich..so eine tolle Landschaft, ohne fröhliche Menschen..
      Eigentlich überhaupt fast ohne Menschen, vereinzelt sieht man jemanden in den Dörfern.
      Kaum Autos auf den Straßen.
      Ich kam mir wirklich vor wie nachem Atomunfall.
      Nur der Postmann rumpelt durch Europa😌😖

      Die Grenze nach Spanien haben wir völlig ohne Problem passiert.
      Nachdem wir die richtige gefunden hatten 😖🙄 Rechts ran fahren, ein paar Fragen, Formulare ausfüllen, feddich.
      Fiel uns doch ein Klotz vor die Füße.....
      Nun stehen wir ca. 20 km hinter Badajoz auf einem Feldweg.
      Sind jetzt ca. 750 km durch Spanien und dann noch etwa 1750 nach Hause.
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    • Day 7

      Day 7 - Monestario - 20 Km

      September 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      We walked out of Andelusia and crossed into Extremadora this morning. There was a great castle from the middle ages right on the border. Beautiful.
      And today started with another surprise. My camel back leaked most of its water through my pack and down my back. I saved some and hoped I had enough for the day. The bonus was that my pack was suddenly much lighter and the walking easier. Anyway I eventually forgot about water and thirst - took little frequent sips, ate my mandarin and had a heathy morning tea of canned octopus in oil and bread.
      Imagine my surprise when my companions said there should be (a previously undisclosed) cafe at the 10 km mark. I got my cafe con leche which I missed this morning- and a water top up. Phew.
      Monesterio is the Jamon capital of Spain. There is even a Jamon Museum. Jamon is like prosciutto but is from the back leg of the pig. The Jamon from this part of Spain is particularly flavoursome because the pigs are free range and eat the acorns from the cork oaks. It is very expensive- hence €6 for a Jamon bocadillo. The Jamon negro is the most sought after at €16+ per kilo when buying the whole leg.
      So I saw many happy piggies in the fields as I walked today though they are eventually destined for consumption. Poor piggies.
      Our little group scored a great hostel for tonight - single room for €12.
      We finished the day with a taxi ride to the Monestario de Tentudia - again built in the Middle Ages during the war between the Catholic monarchs of northern Spain and the ‘Muslim troops’. 😢
      It’s on the highest hill/mountain in the area. Apparently on a clear day you can see Seville.
      Just waiting to go out to have some dinner.
      Buen Camino
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    • Day 14

      Merida

      September 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Wir sind heute weiter Richtung Süden, denn für morgen ist etwas Regen angesagt.
      So führt uns der Weg nach Mérida. Der Campingplatz liegt direkt an einer Zufahrtsstraße in die Stadt und ist kaum gepflegt. Aber wer die Stadt sehen möchte ist darauf angewiesen.

      Eine kleine Radtour in die Stadt und wenige Stunden reichen um die Sehenswürdigkeiten zu besuchen.

      Es gibt hier noch eine Stierkampfarena. Anfang September war sogar noch ein Event dort. Ob die hier tatsächlich noch Stierkämpfe veranstalten?

      Ein längerer Aufenthalt kommt nicht in Frage. Morgen geht es weiter. Endlich nach Portugal 😊
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    • Day 8

      Day 8 - Calzadilla - 20 km / taxi 6 km

      September 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

      Extremadura - a day of rolling wheat fields: some recently harvested and some already plowed ready for winter sowing.
      I think today was the easiest longer distance so far. No mountains to climb, cooler weather - but still that last 5 km seems like the previous 15 put together.
      I am feeling much better - ankle has nearly recovered and should be OK, as long as it doesn’t twist again (it is weaker and more prone to giving way) and my throat seems to have consolidated into something more like a head cold, and the body is slowly getting stronger - all in all not too bad
      I am the slowest in my small group and I think they take it in turns to wait for me. They are so kind. We also met Max from Canada who started in Sevilla a bit after me - a young man who caught up with us oldies. 🤣🤣🤣
      I might have already mentioned that the Spanish couple are 67 and the Italian man is 51.
      Our 20 km took us to Fuente but accomodation there is very expensive so we took a taxi 6 km to the next town and we are in a lovely Albergue beside the church. This will also make tomorrow’s stage only 16 km.
      A lady came and opened the church at 6 pm and I am sitting here writing my blog.
      I notice that since we entered Extremadura there are a lot more signs of Christianity than in Andelusia. Given that Andelusia was the last Moorish stronghold in that terrible war I can understand the general antipathy towards Christianity. I was pretty distressed myself with the actions of the Christian army and I was just a visitor.
      However true spirituality manifests as Love no matter what the outer ‘covering’ and given this is a Christian pilgrimage route I am happy to see the Christian churches open and more wayside shrines.
      The two churches I have been in so far all honour Mother Mary (Ave Maria) with a very gentle and lovely energy.
      It feels very nice sitting here - safe and calm. An older couple just arrived and I hope they don’t take offence at my writing the blog.
      The time and energy that goes into creating all the sacred objects and statues is amazing - but it is certainly one way to keep the mind and heart on the higher virtues and on the Divine.
      Maybe this is why I am and many others walk the Camino de Santiago- to connect to that stream of Love that is the essence of all paths and faiths.
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    • Day 9

      Day 9 - Zafra 17.5 km

      September 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      The day started with a spectacular sunrise and a brisk walk to the local restaurant for cafe con leche.
      Today we moved from wheat fields to olive trees, grapes, melons - more diverse framing. The walk was relatively flat and easy, and I am feeling stronger and more present.
      However …. Now I have a small blister on one toe. 😂🤣😅
      I had a blessing in a small town just before I got to Zafra. The local church was open - two women were there doing the cleaning etc. I got a stamp on my Credential and was able to sit for a while. The churches have many figures of Jesus, Mary and other saints, which are incredibly ornate, all around the walls. Beautiful.
      There is a fiesta in Zamora over the next few days; in actual fact the annual agricultural fair with all the trimmings we would expect at home. It means the town is full and busy.
      Tomorrow I will walk 4 km only to the next small town and have a rest day to give my feet and body a chance to catch up with itself.
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    • Day 11

      Day 11 - Villafranca- 20 km

      October 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      ‘Walk your own Camino’
      This is the saying and advice given over and over again and it is amazing how often we forget for ourselves and judge others when their way is different.
      It seems I have hit an ‘empty day’ - I was the only walker at the albergue last night (4 others were on bikes) and have only seen one other walker today.
      This means it is so much easier to stroll at my own pace, stop when I feel like it and start again when I am ready. Right now I am sitting by the side of a small dirt roadway amongst the olive groves. I can hear distant traffic, birds tweeting, the sound of the wind in the trees and the buzz of the occasional insect. So peaceful.
      My favourite little town so far - Los Santos de Maimona - appeared 4 km from todays starting point and I had a delicious cafe con leche and toast - served by a smiling and happy young woman. A few men were out walking their dogs and stopping for coffee or a chat with each other. I received many ‘Buenos dias’ and smiles as I followed the huge yellow arrows painted in the street. The town has such a lovely atmosphere. I imagined a close knit community, not far from the action in Zafra, but very much away from the hustle and bustle.
      Afternoon - I have had a lovely day only to find the albergue in Villafranca closed and all other accommodation booked out because of the agricultural show in Zafra.
      Was suggested that I take a bus to Merida but with the help of some young people I got a bed in the next town and headed for the bus stop.
      More help from some English speakers but I missed taking the next bus because I thought it went to Sevilla. So now waiting another 90 mins for the next bus. Aaahhhggh!!!!
      I wondered if I would end up having to sleep at the bus stop. Worse things have happened.
      A real lesson in patience and an opportunity to practice calm and trust. And also learning that problems will be solved when they are solved and not a moment sooner.
      Good news - there is a power point at the bus station so I could charge my phone.
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    • Day 13

      Day 13 - Aljucén - 17 km

      October 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      Highlights ….
      Once out of Mérida the way was not very well marked for a few km. But I met up with Max of a few days ago and followed him to the green bike path where he seemingly zoomed ahead. There was another dirt turn off about 9-10 Km out that was not marked but I realised I had gone past when all of a sudden the sun was in the wrong place. I have an online map that I can check so I got back on track very quickly.
      Walked 17 km (with pack) and am not wrecked - might even be ready for the hills in the final stages of this Camino -which I think I can see in the far far distance.
      An easy day of gently undulating lightly forested land, and grapes being harvested .
      There is a Roman built Lake Proserpina about 4 km out of Mérida that sent water to the Milagro Aqueduct in Mérida all those centuries ago. I walked across the 2000 year old dam wall. Amazing construction.
      A bit later cows that look like bulls and rams that look ewes. I never knew that rams could have such huge low slung balls.
      Finally arriving at the cutest town of Aljucén with lots of Camino signage and a great old church dedicated to St Andrew. The only down side was that the church was built to celebrate the expulsion of the Moors. ☹️
      Tomorrow I walk 19 km.
      Buen Camino
      PS just worked out I am averaging 15 km per day which includes the 56 km by bus and taxi. Not too bad for an old codger.
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    • Day 12

      Mérida -Rome in ruins amongst flowers

      October 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      What a lovely peaceful day in Mérida.
      Sunday meant not too many people up and about. Highlights….
      My Hostel Milagro - meaning ‘miracle’ in Spanish, named after the nearby Milagro Aquaduct is near a large park, close enough to the Roman artefacts, and beside a cluster of older apartment buildings (public housing?) with cheaper bars at which to eat - and the only shop open on Sunday night where I could get something to eat to take with me on the road tomorrow.
      Searched out all the main Roman ruins and saw all the free stuff. There is a hearty bushy fence around the main theatre complex but kind people have made gaps to see through. It is really affordable at €16 entry but I was not interested in spending that much time there.
      I did enjoy a good look at a very old ice house / sauna. I’m still not sure how those two activities could occupy the same building.
      Saw more flowers today than in all my Camino days so far.
      Stopped in a small church and fell into meditation. Then remembered that yesterday was my mothers birthday and today was Dad’s death day and Mum’s funeral. Had time to reflect on them both and connect with their love for me and my love for them.
      Lay in the grass under a hibiscus bush.
      Had a great lunch - €12
      Asked reception to ring ahead for me for tomorrow night
      Lay on my bed at peace.

      And of course it’s Baba Muktananda’s Solar Mahasamadhi. ❤️🌈🥰🎉
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    • Day 14

      Day 14 - Alcuéscar 19.1 km

      October 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      Very hot very tough day - so thankful for my umbrella as the last 7 km were without shade and the temperature got to the low 30’s.
      I met a man from Brittany, Serge, and I walked with him at the end. It made it much easier. And then he paid for lunch. Too kind.
      This is Serge’s second time on this Camino. Last time he did it in spring. He showed me some photos and it was so green and full of flowers - and full of pilgrims. Very different from Autumn.
      We are staying at Casa de Acogida de los Esclavos de María y de los Pobres. It is actually a hospital ‘for people who require special care’ run by a religious order. They also provide accommodation for pilgrims by donation. It is beautifully calm and peaceful and the hospitalaro is very kind and helpful.
      Because there are not so many pilgrims at this time of year I have had a room / dorm to myself quite a few times. A blessing of this autumn Camino.
      And Fiesta continues. Apparently 4 October is a religious celebration in the Catholic tradition. So there is a fun fair here tonight. With all the lights and rides and food. I can hear the music and noise from my bed. I was remembering how exciting the Show was when I was young and it is fun watching the children and young people enjoying the excitement of it all.
      But it feels so peaceful here - I am sure as soon as I shut my window I will easily drift off to sleep regardless of the noise. Oh and the church bell just above me goes off every 15 minutes. Haha. I am surprised that none of this seems to bother me. Right now I feel a happiness within. Maybe the Camino is doing its work on me.
      PS Just discovered the window is double glazed and sound proof - this truely is a blessed place.
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    • Day 15

      Day 15 - Valdesalor - 26 km!!!!!

      October 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

      Last night a group of older Spanish pilgrims struggled in around 7 pm. They looked done in - particularly one man.
      I later found out they are mostly experienced walkers and one even runs half marathons. They had walked 34 km in one day. And they are all around 60 or older. 🤩🤩🤩
      I have been trying to walk less than 20 km per day until it cools down. I decided it was too hard in the afternoon heat. But it turns out that the albergue in one of my planned stops is closed. While I was working out how to break up the next stages I had a chat with the woman in the group, Beatrice (the rest of the group are men).
      Anyway the result is that I walked with the group - and it seemed I wanted to give the 26 km a go. When we got to my original planned stop at 15 km one man decided to take a taxi the rest of the way. He kindly agreed to take my back pack so I could walk the next 11 km with just my small day pack. I don’t think I could have done it with a full pack- so God was looking after me and let me know I can do more than the mind allows.
      Everyone looked out for me and were very complementary. Antonio had a long conversing me via Google translate and others made sure I was OK.
      Antonio and others talked about Santa Rita (Saint Rita - who I came across in Sevilla) who said - What is given is not taken away.
      In Spain the use the expression with children to teach them to take turns and share.
      But for me it means that when we give something away we are not diminished, we do not lose anything. I like that meaning better as for me it indicates that there is an infinite supply in all of us - for others and also for ourselves.
      Today was also the day that I wanted to let go of the belief that I can’t walk very far and that it’s too hard. I recalled one of our guides in Tibet who said - it’s all in the mind.
      What I found today was that I can walk much further thank I think. But when it gets hard the ‘I can’t’ thoughts arise with great gusto. 😂😂😂
      I do need to be mindful of my foot with the Morton’s Neuroma and mindful of the heat - but I have my beloved umbrella.
      I found the last 7 km really hot and hard but instead of thinking thoughts about how I can’t do this, I did some releasing. My mantra (in 32 degrees) was - I allow myself to feel as hot as I do: I allow myself to be as cool as I can. It helped me to focus on being cool instead of focusing on how hot it was - and kept me going - and a cooler breeze soon popped up which helped of course.
      Right now I have shared a meal with my group (salad, calamari, chicken, pork and the best tomatoes so far) and they are all getting a bit pissed on the local wine which tastes a bit like sherry and is quite good but seems stronger than the other Spanish wine I have tasted. I eventually had a small amount and when I said I liked it they all cheered.
      My most loved Camino items today
      - Umbrella
      - Day pack
      - Voltarin Forte cream

      Other highlights
      The whole of today was through the country side - away from any main roads.
      Here the Camino follows the old Roman road going north. We crossed three Roman bridges - still completely intact and going strong - and passed a Roman milestone that said XXVIII.

      PS - the group stopped for many photo opportunities- hence some photos of me for a change. 😁

      Buen Camino
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Extremadura, Estremadura, منطقة إكستريمادورا, اكستريمادورا, Эстрэмадура, Естремадура, Εξτρεμαδούρα, Ekstremaduro, Estremaúra, اکسترمادورا, Estrémadure, Èstrèmadura, Ekstremadûra, Ekstremadura, אקסטרמדורה, Estremadure, Էստրեմադուրա, Extremadúra, エストゥレマドゥーラ, ესტრემადურა, Эстремадура, 에스트레마두라 지방, Estremadūra, 埃斯特雷馬杜拉, Екстремадура, एस्त्रेमादुरा, Эстремадурæ, ایکسٹریماڈورا, Ikstrimadura, แคว้นเอกซ์เตรมาดูรา, 埃斯特雷马杜拉

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