Oviedo

This morning was so lovely. I stayed at a really comfortable hostel, and they didn’t require us to leave until 11:00am. This was ideal for me because I knew I wanted to spend some time in the city. I was awakened by the glorious crinkly bag chorus at 6:20am, but I was feeling pretty smug because I knew I wasn’t going to be hiking for many more hours. All of my compatriots left the room by 7:00, and I was alone to enjoy a few moments of morning silence.

I got up and decided to explore the city a bit more. It’s nice to explore cities in the morning if you want to take photos. I was very lucky this morning and was able to visit both El Fontán Market when it was first opening and the cathedral.

El Fontán Market was so colorful! There were fruit and vegetable stalls with beautiful cherries, oranges, apples—really any fruit or vegetable you could want. Then there were elaborate cheese and meat stalls. You could assemble the most elaborate charcuterie board of your dreams. I was sad to be in Oviedo alone because I wanted to buy things from these places, but these are definitely sharing foods. There were also gorgeous fish stalls. I know it sounds silly to say a fish vendor is pretty, but they were beautiful: perfectly cleaned and presented on a bed of ice. I LOVE to cook, and I would have spent all my money buying groceries if I had a proper kitchen to cook in and people to cook for.

After the market, I walked through the mostly deserted streets to the cathedral. It was about 8:45am, and hardly anyone was out. Spaniards are not morning folk. The “exit” doors to the cathedral were open, but technically the church was closed to visitors. I walked in anyway—God invited me. As I walked inside, the sun was shining perfectly through the stained glass windows behind the altar. It was so beautiful. I sat on a pew and contemplated the size and age of this church. I watched the sunrise through the stained glass of the cathedral as the bell tower was ringing. I thought about the value of these churches. I’m not religious but certainly believe in faith and a guiding higher power. I’ve spent more time sitting in church pews in the last three weeks than in the last twenty years. What is the value of a cathedral like this? For me, they have been a place of reprieve, a gentle, safe place to rest. I think all churches begin with this intention at heart, but the complexities of human beings—ego, selfishness, and politics—sometimes sour that safety. The cathedral is just a structure, and the church itself can represent what you bring to it. For me, they have been places of solace and refuge and a connection to the history of the Camino and those who have walked it before me. I was fortunate to inside when the 9:00am Mass started. The scent of the burning incense suffused the entire room, and then the organ started to play. The service was happening in a small chapel to the side of the main room. It was moving to listen to the sound of the patrons singing in response to the padre. I felt very blessed to be able to have this experience inside of such a beautiful church.

I had a coffee at 10:00, because it is coffee hour. The cafe was adorable and right across from El Fontán Market. As I was enjoying my coffee, this super stylish abuela came in with Snow White hair, but she had little streaks of bright red highlights. I’ve seen this trend quite a lot in abuelas, either pink, red, or purple dye in their hair! It’s so fabulous! I love how they are subtly saying, “See me? I still got it, bitches.”

I didn’t leave Oviedo until 11:00, and I am a bit regretful that I didn’t get a morning helado on my way out of town—the ice cream store was open. I don’t know why I would’ve felt ashamed about that. Once, I saw a guy walk into a bar at 10:00am and order a cerveza. If drinking beer at 10:00 is okay, certainly ice cream at 11:00 is fine too! I can justify anything.

The walk was pleasant enough. 12 miles in 5 hours. A change in scenery from the coast, walking through forests and alongside creeks. It reminds me of a scene from a medieval fairytale movie where there is a prince and his entourage riding down the cobblestone road when they encounter a peasant girl… who will obviously win over the heart of the prince, but she must first overcome great adversity.

I didn’t walk too far today, and I am staying at Villa Palatina, about 6km before the typical stop of Grado. I chose to stay here because the reviews were good, and tomorrow I want to stay at a donativo a bit past Grado. I’m trying to slow down a little since I realize the journey is almost over.

It reminds me of one of my favorite poems by Danna Faulds called “Walk Slowly”

It only takes a reminder to breathe,

a moment to be still, and just like that,

something in me settles, softens, makes

space for imperfection. The harsh voice

of judgment drops to a whisper and I

remember again that life isn’t a relay

race; that we will all cross the finish

line; that waking up to life is what we

were born for. As many times as I forget,

catch myself charging forward

without even knowing where I’m going,

that many times I can make the choice

to stop, to breathe, and be, and walk

slowly into the mystery.Läs mer