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Quiroga

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    • Laurie ReynoldsVía Serrana and El Invierno
      2
      Day 19

      A longer route to A Rua

      April 29 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      The day from O Barco had to be either 13 km or 40 km. I was not interested in the 40 option. I had learned on the forum that there was a way to visit an old abandoned estate (Pazo) on the other side of the river, which would also add a little bit of distance. I did some more searching and found that there were several trails on that side of the river that would take me up high, to some waterfalls, and then to a couple of little towns on my way back down to the river. I pieced together some Wikiloc tracks and got a good alternative – 24 km and about 600 m elevation gain.

      It was a combination of two local trails, both very well-maintained and marked. I saw several people out walking, all single women from the nearby villages, and also met a man tending his little patch of grape vines. The waterfalls were quite nice, and the walk along the ridge at the top gave such a different view than what we normally see walking down by the river. I came into town over an ancient pedestrian bridge, and saw that there was a Roman millario right next to it! I am very happy to have done this route, and I arrived in A Rua just in time to have a menú del día with Clare.

      Despite the weather forecast, it was a glorious day, but rain is back in the forecast tomorrow. It looks like the morning will be dry, so I will start out good and early!      Read more

    • Camino invierno
      1121
      Day 3

      Puerte de Domingo nach A Rúa (28 km)

      April 16 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

      Heute ging es für uns nach A Rúa, ein wunderschöner Weg am Fluss entlang, mit vereinzelten kleineren Anstiegen in das umliegende Bergland. Heute zeigte sich die Gastfreundschaft der Menschen in der Nähe des Camino. Wir durften mehrfach Hilfe und Unterstützung aus heiterem Himmel erfahren. So bot uns ein Ehepaar, dass uns auf seinem Weg zum Öffnen ihres Hühnerstalls begegnete, während Friedrich mit schmerzenden Füßen eine Pause eingelegt hatte, an, die Füße bei ihnen daheim unter Wasser abzukühlen. Ein paar Häppchen mit Chorizo und Schinken sowie für jeden zwei Dosen Limonade gab es ebenso ungefragt dazu.
      Diese Einstellung der unbedingten Gastfreundschaft und Offenheit wollen wir auf auf jeden Fall versuchen, mit nach Deutschland zu nehmen. Am Abend kehrten wir in einer kleinen Herberge in A Rúa ein. Auch hier würden wir wieder sehr gut umsorgt. Der Obolus für Herberge, Abendessen und Frühstück war hier für die Reisenden als Spende frei zu wählen. Auch ein spannendes Konzept, dass erfreulicherweise offenbar gut funktioniert.
      Morgen geht es auf die nächste Etappe, mal sehen wie lang diese sein wird.      Read more

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    • Laurie ReynoldsVía Serrana and El Invierno
      231
      Day 20

      To Quiroga in the rain (28 km and 700 m)

      April 30 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      It wasn’t a totally rainy day, but there were several long-ish periods, so my shoes and feet were soaked most of the day. This is a very nice stage even when it’s raining, way up high with four other paths paralleling below — the river, the train tracks, the national highway, and the local highway. And there I was on top of all of it! The Sil River is dark green, blending in with the greenery all around. With the grey sky, the color palette was fairly reduced—except for billions of bright yellow flower bushes (gorse or broom, I’ve been told they’re called).

      The Camino goes through several little villages— all have at least a few inhabitants, a few renovated homes, and the great majority falling apart. I can’t imagine that there is anything that will bring these places back to life, but maybe the Camino will do it!

      One of my two favorite Sil River horseshoe curves is on this stage, and luckily it wasn’t raining when I got to that spot! I sat and had a few handfuls of trail mix and soaked it in — then the rain started and I really soaked it in.

      I am in a nice place in Quiroga— hair dryer and heat! Now my shoes will dry for sure.

      Looks like rain for the next few days.      Read more

    • Laurie ReynoldsVía Serrana and El Invierno
      23
      Day 21

      22 km and 700 m to Pobra de Brollón

      May 1 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

      I woke up this morning and saw that once again weather.com predicted clouds and no rain till late afternoon, while the Spanish, weather website aemet.es showed rain all day. I chose to put my faith in weather.com, even though it had let me down yesterday. Both websites showed the same cold temperature, though – 38 F/3C. Another day to put my smartwool socks on my hands. But I would much rather have those warm lambswool gloves that are sitting at home in my Camino box!

      This was a planned short-ish day, because I wanted to have a good chunk of time in Monforte De Lemos tomorrow. I have stayed there two or three times, but always arrived on the late side after a pretty hard walk. It’s a small city with some interesting things to see.

      I had forgotten how beautiful this stage is. Lots of green, lots of flowers, lots of big vistas from up high. No cultural or historical sites, but plenty of natural beauty. And the rain held off until I was about four minutes from my destination.

      There is now an albergue in town, but I learned that the pensión where I had stayed years ago had reopened (its owners closed it when they retired, but their kids have reopened it). Very nice.

      Clare and I have had a good and very filling lunch in La Taberna Vieja, and we are going to stay here till the thunder and rain stop.      Read more

    • Camino invierno
      1
      Day 4

      A Rúa nach Quiroga (29 km)

      April 17 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      Heute ging es durch eine Menge kleiner Ortschaften entlang des Rio Sil. Jedoch haben wir den Verlauf des Rio Sil immer aus einer gewissen Höhe betrachten können. Auf dem weg nach Quiroga gibt es keine Möglichkeit Wasser aufzufüllen, jedenfalls nicht in Form eines Supermarktes oder eines Restaurants. So hatten wir uns in A Rúa gestern schon entsprechend mit ausreichend Wasser eingedeckt. Vereinzelt haben die Bewohner der Dörfer Pilger-Stationen eingerichtet, an denen man Wasser, Kaffee und Obst erhalten kann. Manche bieten sogar die Möglichkeit das Handy zu laden. Am Ende des Tages sind wir gut in unserer Herberge angekommen und es bleibt nur, sich wieder auf den nächsten Tag vorzubereiten, was auch immer er bringen mag.Read more

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    • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From Irún
      Day 26

      When 16 km seems short

      June 28, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      This is one of the shortest days I’ve ever walked on any camino (and I think this is camino number 19 for me!). It’s just hard to find anything but a 42 km alternative, and though I have done stages that long this year, the heat advisory gave me pause.

      So I left much later than usual, with a 7 AM breakfast in my hostal. Say what you will about the bathrooms, the breakfast was delicious. Fresh squeezed orange juice, lots of fruit, yogurt, and of course toast with butter and jam. And a very respectable café con leche. Way beyond the norm for a €20 room.

      Even with this late departure, I was still in A Rua before 10 AM. That gave me two hours till I could take off my pack and check into my hotel. So I decided to walk down to the Riverwalk at the edge of town I went to the ayuntamiento and got some information for our Invierno guide, which we update every year.

      I am in a cute little place above a good restaurant, so IWill be well fed for sure. It looks like the temperature May be decreasing some, so a 28 or 29 Kilometer day tomorrow should be fine.

      But first it’s time to enjoy the watermelon I carried up the hill to my hotel!      Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Quiroga

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