Camino de Santiago

May – July 2023
  • Steve Broyles
Walking to find clarity, seeking the present. Read more
  • Steve Broyles

List of countries

  • France France
  • Spain Spain
  • United States United States
Categories
Hiking, Self discovery, Solo travel, Spirituality
  • 7.0kmiles traveled
Means of transport
  • Flight6,292kilometers
  • Walking508kilometers
  • Bus94kilometers
  • Train91kilometers
  • Hiking-kilometers
  • Bicycle-kilometers
  • Motorbike-kilometers
  • Tuk Tuk-kilometers
  • Car-kilometers
  • Camper-kilometers
  • Caravan-kilometers
  • 4x4-kilometers
  • Swimming-kilometers
  • Paddling/Rowing-kilometers
  • Motorboat-kilometers
  • Sailing-kilometers
  • Houseboat-kilometers
  • Ferry-kilometers
  • Cruise ship-kilometers
  • Horse-kilometers
  • Skiing-kilometers
  • Hitchhiking-kilometers
  • Cable car-kilometers
  • Helicopter-kilometers
  • Barefoot-kilometers
  • 144footprints
  • 44days
  • 677photos
  • 166likes
  • Iglesia de San Esteban

    June 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Excellent bell.
    Very nice docent (is that what we call a volunteer church info person? It is now...)

    Pretty little church and I'm told there is a coffee shop nearby... I really hope so

  • Pamplona! Beautiful

    June 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    I've only just arrived, but I like it here.
    Might stay an extra night as most attractions are closed on Sunday.

    The maybe is.. I'm reluctant to to break up the fellowship with other Pilgrims with whom I've been walking.

    The added upside is ... Not walking tomorrow! My feet and shins are feeling some tiredness.

    TBD .

    Today was fairly 'easy'. Rocking out to a good playlist really helps the miles roll away. I've been unsuccessful all day in finding a coffee and pastry... High hopes for tomorrow. My chocolate croissant levels are approaching critical.

    My cold seems to be abating, thankfully.

    I think that today's star moment was deciding to take the "high road" which took us past the Church of Saint Esteban. It's a very cute 12th century church with a nice bell that we got to ring.... And has a dandy patron saint!

    That, and entering the walls of Pamplona: truly breathtaking. I'm excited to explore.

    We found lodging at rhe Albergue Plaza Catedral... So far so good!
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  • Bar bar ice cream

    June 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    Strolling Pamplona I found myself thinking again and again: "This looked this way 500 years ago."

    It's beautiful.

    After viewing rramparts bilt in the 1500's and watching children play while young lovers smoched on very-public benches, we walked, wide eyed, along anvient looking brick or stone facades lined with majestic sgade trees. I'm told it has been oddly rainy this summer.

    Hemmingway is purported to have favored Café Iruña... Or at least that's what Iruña says...
    And it's right on the main plaza so we had a beverage there. I tried Patxarán and liked it.

    The service was as bad as the setting was wonderful so we relocated and enjoyed a delicious meal.

    After dinner we strolled briefly and found ourselves ordering gelato. I was (am) happy to find dairy free chocolate. So good!

    And we meandered our way back to our lodging, another day on The Camino come to a close.
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  • Sunrise Yoga

    June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Most days I've managed to see at least part of sunrise, and often while trying to coax some mobility back into my stiff limbs through some gentle yoga. It makes me happy to see the world while many are still sleeping.Read more

  • Parting from the Cakewalkers

    June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    My decision to take a rest day in Pamplona means that my happy little tribe and I are parting ways.

    Will our paths cross again on The Camino?
    It is unknowable. I do feel like there's a good chance we will see each other again somewhere. Bonds made during travel are different from the casual connections we make in daily life, that's part of what is so wonderful about travel.

    Despite the sense of loss in making this choice, I recognize that my health and well being are best served by taking some rest.

    Not only that, but I *want* to spend some more time exploring Pamplona. Perhaps not enough to return here, but certainly enough to be here now.

    Oh, and I'm told that there's a spot nearby with excellent chocolate croissants.
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  • 'Zero Day' Pamplona

    June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    While I feel like I've been taking it really easy, my 'zero' day is still more than 10 miles of strolling through the City. Much of it with a pack.

    But I enjoyed a luxurious morning of not one, but two different versions of chocolate croissant, along with two delicious cafes americano in two very distinct cafe settings.

    This brings a big smile to my very soul. Chocolate croissants are my love language and I have loved myself well today.

    I also enjoyed a fantastic three course lunch on a nice terrace. Cafe Bula, very reasonable at 19€ for more food than I should've eaten.

    The afternoon included a mediocre but pleasant 60minute massage folowed by a rainstorm that forced me into El Gaucho where I was fed outstandingly delicious snacks (with draft beers) for under $5.

    The ice cream dessert was my own doing.

    On the way home I may or may not have stopped for some jamón and a splash of beer.

    I'm so happily overfed that I feel mildly delirious.

    In the interest of geting some sleep/rest, I've splurged on a private room that specifically advertises itself as "soundproof". Vamos a ver.

    Having a full-size bed and a private bath feels luxurious after a week of having up to 12 people in the same room.

    Pamplona.... Show up hungry.
    And be aure to look around. It's a treat.
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  • puente de la reina from pamplona

    June 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Distance: 17.8miles
    Climb: 496m (1,627 ft) and more down.
    Temps in the 80s (I think?)

    Today was good but wasn't easy: both physically and emotionally/spiritually.

    Highlights for me included spending most of the day alone. I spoke to maybe 4 people for maybe 10 minutes each. If you know me at all you know that silence is just not my default mode... I enjoyed the thinking. It was a little like a silent retreat.

    Thought topics ranged greatly and many are more personal than I care to include just now.

    I made peace with some demons and learned some things about myself, which is part of why I'm here.

    The landscape started urban and morphed into sunny rolling wheatfields with brilliant red poppies. The quaint rural towns through which I walked felt remote but are probably a 20 minute drive from Pamplona. Funny how taking a trail changes perspective vs taking the highway. This led me down a path of thinking about how much our chosen route through life influnces our perspective on... Everything. I rarely pause to ask myself how much my opinion is defined by my path but I'd like to get better at that; it matters.

    As I slipped and skidded down some loose rubbly gravel I was listening to a podcast about how we aren't *really* in control of much... I had to stop and laugh at the serendipitous nature of the two things, which led to me sitting down to contemplate the soaring view and appreciate how fortunate I am that my life circumstances provide me with the opportunity to be where I am, doing what I am doing. I am enjoying it. I am happy.

    As I sat, my thoughts turned to pondering life-purpose and just how irrelevant we are in a very large sense. Sure, to some people at some times we are anything but irrelevant! Yet compared to the butterfly flitting along at my feet or the lizard scurrying down the path... How truly important is any of this? Will anyone remember me in 1,000 years? 100 years? 10? I find the former doubtful and the 2nd only slightly less doubtful. 10 years I feel pretty confident. Got that going for me, which is nice. This thought left me oddly comforted... It's just life, after all.

    And yet.... I am reminded of the importance of life purpose. I am told that the Japanese language includes the word "Ikigai" which translates roughly as "Why I wake up".

    For those who don't know me: I've had a complicated year. In addition to several other stressors; losing my brother and also my best friend in a two month period threw me for a loop and left me questioning many things. Among them: my own life choices, mortality, honesty, love, anger, loss, and the reality of impermanence. Just that!

    It has been a little while since I have been able to easily define what is my Ikigai... I'd like to rediscover that. I'm not there yet, but stay tuned..... Could happen any moment! and I believe that taking this time to focus on being present and listening to my heart, mind, and soul is likely to help.

    In the meantime, I embrace the process with enthusiasm. I try to release my 'need' for results. Some moments it works. Some.... There's opportunity for growth. Growth is certainly among the things that truly do matter in this groovy little thing called life.

    ¡Buen camino!
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