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Camino de Santiago
  • Steve Broyles
  • Steve Broyles

Camino de Santiago

Walking to find clarity, seeking the present. Read more
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  • Steve BroylesCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1

    Itero de la Vega is.... Quiet

    June 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    As Bruce and I walked into town we were laughing and whistling spaghetti western theme songs; checking each door for an Eastwood.

    This town, literally, smells like shit.

    But it does have some charm and we found a pleasant albergue with dinner. At the table we have a Turkish archeology PhD, an Argentine and her mother, a woman from Minnesota, a South African man, my California self, and eventually a crazy German who did 52km today.

    That's what I love about escaping comfort.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Boadilla Kink

    June 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    So... This town is primarily famous for the enormous phallus beside the church. To which they used to chain/punish people.

    Sounds a lot more Folsom Street than anything else, if you ask me.

    Interestingly, it also has an incongruously modern hotel in the midst of a rustic little town. They make decent coffee there.

    A curious place, Boadillo del Camino.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Storks nest on high points all over
    1Found the Windows default desktop!

    Carrión de Condes from Itero de la Vega

    June 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    37km. Fairly flat.

    The landscape was far More varied than I expected for the Meseta. We walked by fields, along a canal, through several cute towns and along a roadway into our destination.

    3 food stops made the journey better. Bruce has convinced me to take off shoes and socks at least once/day and it works. Happier feet!Read more

  • Steve BroylesCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    3

    Onward

    June 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    On the Camino we frequently see yellow arrows marking the way. Sometimes fellow pilgrims take the time to build stones or sticks into arrows, too.

    I find it heartwarming. Sometimes it is just the thing we need: a nudge of encouragement. Keep going!Read more

  • Steve BroylesCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Another gorgeous church in Carrión
    I liked this knockerFun doors aboundNice bar at La Morena45€ gets a beautiful room, here. Shared bath, but otherwise excellent. A little warm at night

    Ledigo from Carrión de los Condes

    June 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    We passed up an albergue (hostel) with a pool today. Sigh. I'd really like to take a swim at some point soon but between rain, out of service signs, and other requirements it hasn't materialized yet. The hope is alive.

    Albergue La Morena in Ledigos was our destination because I had a zoom meeting set up and needed a quiet space w WiFi. The upside is that I enjoyed a very nice bed in an attractive room, a tasty meal, and the company of good people.... Even if no swimmies.

    Temps are climbing. Afternoons are rapidly becoming uncomfortable for walking so we are looking towards an earlier start.

    Oh! Also I have my first foot woe. Not a blister (yet?) But getting a hot spot on my right heel. I've been luckier than most to go this long without issue and I jumped right on it with a change of socks and some tape to pad. Hopefully tomorrow will show signs of improvement.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1122

    Sahagún from Ledigos; illness

    June 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    I'm behind on posting and not feeling inspired (feeling fairly miserable, honestly).

    Probably has a lot to do with feeling ill. At least five other people with whom I've been travelling (sporadically) have a stomach bug. So far, I have had a mild version: no puking on the side of the road. For that I am fortunate as the others have been forced to retreat into taxis or not proceed at all. I've been able to soldier on but the ~17km I walked today felt much longer.

    To that, add a heat wave. Temps outside right now (6pm) are in the 90°s (33°+). Tomorrow we can expect even warmer. While I do enjoy sunny summer heat, it makes sickness feel slower and heavier.

    I'd sure love to sit in a pool or river.

    The walk today was marked by the first time in Spain that I've seen fields of sunflowers in bloom. That's always a smile-maker. Also I passed into the province of León, and completed the half-way point on this amazing Camino. The terrain was generally gentle rolling hills, or flat. The towns were cute and easy to navigate.

    Upon arrival in Sahagún Bruce and I were joined by Nuria (from Barcelona) who we met earlier this week. She is also quite ill so we swapped stories on that front over a cool soda in the shade as we waited for the Albergue Santa Cruz to open. I chose this spot because the guidebook promised it would have private rooms for 20€ . It does! I am pleased to have my own space (and bathroom). It seems more conducive to rest.
    And rest I did. Normally I take a quick snooze after a shower/laundry each day but today I sacked out for nearly three hours. Much-needed.

    Upon waking I wandered out into the stiflingly hot streets to look around. The extent of my exploration was finding a mango ice cream. That brings the day's total to an orange, an apple, a coffee, a few bites of potato salad, and an ice cream cone. Not enough but I don't know that I could eat more and keep it down. Fun.

    I hope to enjoy a bath later and sleep like the dead.... Tomorrow will be a better day.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Feeling Much Better

    June 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    After yesterday's much needed rest (3 hr naps are the best!) I'm happy to have an appetite again and hoping that food and fluids help restore my energy levels.

    Today's walk will be a brief 17km or a looong almost 30km. Seeing as how the forecast is nearly 40° this afternoon (mid-high 90°s) I suspect that the albergue with a swimming pool at the short-walk distance is likely to get the nod. But.... At 10AM and feeling strong, we shall see!Read more

  • Steve BroylesCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Rawr!Tasty Vegan fare at La Costa del Adobe

    El Burgo Ranero from Sahagún

    June 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    Keeping it easy today.

    I think I'd have enjoyed another five km but the next town is nearly 13km away and temps are ramping up quickly. Better to be gentle than overdo it after a sick day.

    The Meseta continues to be .... Bland.
    The landscape was dominated by cornfields today.

    I had high hopes for finding a pool but it seems I misread the icons on the app.... Plenty of warm adobe but no splish-splash, alas.

    My feet and belly are feeling a million times better, and that's good enough.

    We didn't really plan to splurge but Bruce and I got a double room at a hotel instead of paying only slightly less for dormitory space at the albergue. I'm going to get spoiled if I keep doing this. I find it challenging to not 'splurge' less than the cost of a pint of beer at home to have a better sleep. Maybe I'm getting soft.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1

    Missing My Spearos

    June 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Craving some Coastal Foraging.

    Found crawdads in a fountain!

    But somehow it just ain't the same.

  • Steve BroylesCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    León has been lovely....

    June 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    ...so much that I haven't taken time to make a post. Which is too bad. So here's a quick photo dump.

    The Cathedral's stained glass amounts to nearly 1,800m2. That's nearly 1/2 an acre! And it is so beautiful it brought tears to my eyes. The soaring roof was built so delicately that after a few hundred years a complete restoration was required .... That took 50 years.
    I have a hard time imagining buildings in those time-scales. León only had about 5,000 residents when this enormous gothic palace was built.

    Now, being inside those soaring arches, with the sun streaming in... I can see how people felt religious inspiration.

    We spent some time being amazed by the Gaudi museum (Casa Botines) as well.... I could write pages about his genius.

    The rest of the city is full of flowers, art, statues, friendly people, museums and delicious food. One day was not nearly enough!    Read more

  • Steve BroylesCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Cute little Coffee Pause

    June 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Domus Oncinae is an unexpected gem. We had a delightful stop with friendly people (se habla Ingles). I almost want to stay.... But we have only done 12km- less than 1/2 of our goal for the day.

    We are taking the "alternate" route after León which adds about 4km to the day, but so far has been relaxing and pretty. We are seeing raptors and hearing songbirds instead of hiking alongside a major highway with the melody of trucks whizzing by.Read more

  • Steve BroylesCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    12nd breakfastBoot nursery?

    Villavante from León; 1st Blister

    June 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    While walking today I realized I've walked more than 300 miles (500+ km) so far. If we include in-town, it's significantly more.

    That's a lot of steps. My phone says 41,000 today alone and that's pretty typical for a 32km (~20 miles) day.

    The landscape was attractive, gentle rolling hills with corn, beets (?), Wheat, a flowering plant we don't recognize, sunflowers, some tree farms, flax, and probably others that I've forgotten because my blood sugar is low and my head is half-baked from the heat and the remarkable paucity of shade.

    Right after lunch I discovered my first blister! I'm sad and annoyed by this... I've been successful thus far and don't know what factors contributed. Did I tie my shoe too loose/tight? Socks got too damp? A rock? Some dirt?

    Whatever happened, my left 2nd toe now has a little (pea sized) painful blister. Phooey.
    I'll decide later what to do to mitigate more problems; after a cool beverage.

    Despite each of us discovering blisters, the rising heat, and friendly company .... We opted to do another 10km after lunch in ~90 degree weather. They were 10 boring, but flat, km along first a straight paved road then a straight dirt road. Highlights include: León just after dawn; getting some adorable puppy skritches; watching an eagle eat a snake in a hayfield; watching a different raptor glide around a field, presumably hunting; enjoying a lunch of veggie burger w fries; cool breeze on sweaty bodies; several rivers; standing in the overspray of aomw corn irrigation; meeting some nice people along the way; and taking off my shoes. All in all, a very good day.

    We made it. Maybe we should have walked another mile to a cute b&b by the river but took the "good enough and here" option of a humble but clean Albergue. Adding "just one more mile" after 20 miles in the peak of afternoon heat.... Is a tough sell.

    Emotionally.... I am glad to say that I had a number of chances to check in with myself and feel great. I've shed some of the burdens with which I started this trip and the others feel much more manageable. Doing hard things every day is good therapy. Combining in the opportunity of 5-10hrs of moving meditation helps, too. Life is feeling good.

    I'm dang tired. Staying up till 11+ last night wasn't ideal training. Or maybe I shouldn't have had that penultimate glass of vino. We shall never know.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Free walking sticks!1Totally not posed at all2I have named it Clyde

    Murias de Rechivaldo from Villavante

    June 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    A cool breeze blew all day, which kept off most of the heat but bedeviled my attempts at hiding from the sun under a straw hat.

    I didn't get much of a sunburn, maybe it's windburn? I'll be fine.

    The walk started hazy and cool enough to want a fleece. Delicious walking weather.

    We passed through fields and over some roadways to see Puente de Óbrigo... An enormous medieval bridge spanning what I assume were marshy riverside lands but are now drained fields with a cute town. Also enioyed a snacky chocolate croissant. Yum.

    The trail took us upward shortly afterwards, climbing gently but steadily up a few hundred feet to get our first glimpse of Astorga. Astorga is bigger and prettier than I expected. We had a good lunch and admired the cathedral but wanted to get a little out of town for better sleep (cities are loud) and pushed onward to a cute little spot with a charming lodging.

    I snoozed in a hammock (which is always my favorite thing), played with a dog (always my favorite thing), enjoyed an ice cold draft beer while swapping story with a fascinating international traveler (my favorite thing), and enjoyed live music while eating a healthy meal (my favorite).

    All in all.... The day finished strong.

    Also... Good doors today.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    My feet hurt

    June 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    I default to writing about the 'good' of the experience. There are parts that are hard to enjoy.

    Easy example: it's 9:50pm and someone is using a weed whacker within earshot. A pox upon them and their descendants!!

    I've become somewhat of a connoisseur of 'good' bunk beds. This is not a skill/trait I thought I would develop at this stage of my life.

    My feet feel like someone is holding hot ants against them for about 1/2 the day, most days.

    I fart a lot. I think it's because most of my meals are low on fiber, and often I eat a meal then rest briefly and begin walking... So digestion is negatively affected. Toot!

    Wicked farmer's tan. ... And ankle socks, even better.

    Most mornings, someone wakes up at a very early hour and makes a ton of noise because they didn't pack their bags the night before. Then they usually use a bright light of some sort. And that's usually within a 1/2 hour of when I was going to wake anyway.... So might as well just stay awake.

    Blisters: Not fun. No stars. Do not recommend.

    Chafing happens. It is rarely comfortable. It is rarely predictable. It is insidious.

    My facial hair has run amok. Complete disaster. Hair on my head is [Miracle Max voice] only mostly dead [/Miracle Max voice].

    I have worn the same 3 shirts without pause since May 27th. They have been sorta cleaned most days. Thank the Lambs for Merino wool, it is good even when stinky.

    The next town is always further away than the guidebook/map says it will be. 100% of the time.

    Translating is mentally tiring sometimes.., there was a moment with a religious guy, and it pained me greatly but I just couldn't... If you ever use a translater : speak in brief phrases, not paragraphs. Trust me.

    Time zone woes make communication less convenient. Tho internet makes it so much eaaier than decades ago.

    Some people in shared rooms snore. Some snore A LOT. Some (like me) fart. Some do both.

    There is such a thing as "too much sun".

    Today I had to walk an hour before I could obtain coffee. (But there was a napolitana.. so... Not so bad).

    Sunset is late (after 10:30) and most albuerges lock the door at 10.

    Sometimes, due to being tired and having on a backpack, I do not stop to pet *some* dogs.

    Aside from all that.... Life is pretty good.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1
    3GoodbyeVegan falafel salad, so good2nd breakfast

    Over The Hill; Acebo from Murias

    June 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    While sitting at lunch we decided .. "Why stop at 13 miles? It's only another 7 ish with a few hundred feet of elevation gain over the most rugged pass on the trail to get to the next lodging."

    Also, pool.

    And so we forged onward.

    In fairness, this morning was cold. Like.,. Low 40s cold. And we are higher elevation, so we didn't want to do the 5,000ft pass at dawn. And we felt strong. The walking was glorious all day. And ~20 miles isn't as intimidating as it once was.

    So, after enjoying one of the best salads I've ever had, a kombucha, then a coffee ... We continued.

    Along the way I said an easy but important goodbye; appreciated gorgeous mountain holly in bloom; absorbed an abundance of vitamin D; laughed often; limped occasionally; discussed world politics, relationships, the stock market, Kenyan quail markets, shoes (shoes are a frequent topic TBH), and food; awed and ooo'd over vistas; and stood for a long while watching a berry bush abuzz with a stunning diversity of pollinators.

    There were snacks.

    The physical component was tough but mostly due to foot pain, not so much due to fatigue.

    The weather gods blessed us with not just benevolence, but with excellence.

    And when we arrived, there was in fact a spectacular pool in which to swim.

    A great day.

    A delightful frenchman and his 3 sons shared dinner with me and with Bruce. I am reminded that I should learn some French, and glad that Marc spoke such good English.

    The night is wrapping to a close and tomorrow holds great promise.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Molinaseca

    July 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Hiking down the loose rubble and smoothed stones of a relentless descent made me glad that we chose to summit/cross yesterday.

    Did I mention the pool?
    That is still smiling me today.

    My wrists are sore - I adopted a pair of hiking poles on Thursday and used them all day yesterday. I think that they helped me enjoy a more stable hike and I suppose that the soreness indicates that they shifted some weight off of my knees. Good things.

    The scenic and flowered trail dropped a few thousand (no exaggeration, I think it was over 2,000) to the picturesque town of Molinaseca. One crosses a quaint Roman bridge and enters narrow, medieval feeling streets and alleys. Walking down main street at 9am on Saturday was eerily quiet but stunningly pretty. We did pass through another, tiny, town earlier but it was entirely somnolent at about 8am - the only indicator of life ws that someone set out a pot of coffee, free, for pilgrims to fortify themsleves on rhe descent. Very kind.

    Now refreshed with a proper coffee and a generous portion of tortilla we will push westward!    Read more

  • Steve BroylesCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    3

    Locked.

    July 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Apparently walking through the Puerta del Perdón grants some sort of sin get-out-of-jail-free-card.

    Alas.... It was not open on this sunny Sunday.

    But it is pretty anyway and I have my doubts about the efficacy of such things, anyway.

    Also ... Bought some scrumptious plums from a friendly lady by the side of the road. No advertised impact on sinning, but tastes good, which is good enough for me.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Rivers Are Even Better Than Pools

    July 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Brisk and very refreshing on this low-90s day.
    At ~2,000ft (~700m) elevation I expected the Rio Valcarce to be a warmish river. It is not warm....
    ....but feels fantastic on my aching feet.

    I'm watching two bewitchingly blue/black butterlies bounce by a berry bush while I soak my toes and drip-dry on a concrete embankment in a light breeze.

    I think that this might be my 1st ever river-swim in Spain. I doubt it is my last.

    Life is good.    Read more

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