Tanzania
Mwembetanga

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117 travelers at this place
  • Day16

    Der frühe Vogel... in Stonetown

    December 20, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Irgendwie sind wir auf frühes Aufstehen programmiert obwohl wir zur Abwechslung für einen wirklich schmalen Taler hier sehr nobel übernachtet haben. Ohne Tiere und nicht definierbare Geräusche, in einer wunderbaren Oase 🏝 nebst Bar & Food und Bademänteln. Der Einzige Kritikpunkt war der Filterkaffee. #ohnekaffeekeinecompetition

    Unser Weg führte uns durch die Altstadt von Stone Town. Süße enge Gässle reihen sich aneinander, die vom vorübergezogenen Regen zu einem Erlebnispfad wurden..
    Aus einem anderen Reisebericht bekamen wir die Empfehlung unbedingt ins Zanzibar Coffee House zu gehen. Geführt von einem Schweizer, besticht es mit unglaublich viel altem Charme und Liebe zum Detail. Wir genossen den zweitbesten Kaffee ☕️ unseres Urlaubs (den besten hatten wir ja neulich selbst gemacht) auf der Dachterrasse mit 360 Grad Rundumblick auf Stonetown.

    Es folgte Adventsshopping mal anders 😅
    Auf dem hiesigen Fischmarkt musste man durch den Mund atmen 😷😷😷 obwohl die ganzen (oder teilweise schon halben) süßen Fischlein ganz ganz frisch sind. Hier gibt es alles was dem Gourmet das Herzle ♥️ höher schlagen lässt: Frischen Thunfisch, Hummer, Schwertfisch, Hai 🦈 und auch kleineres Getier. Beim Übergang zur Fleischhalle ist unser Geruchssinn deutlich überstrapaziert und wir switchen in die Gewürzhalle und das bunte Treiben beim Obst und Gammel 🍌🥭 🧅 🍆

    Nach kurzem Stopover und Lunch im Hotel, ging es mal wieder aufs Boot, dieses Mal nach Prison Island, auf die bis 1996 alle Kranken in Quarantäne verschafft wurden. Das eigentliche Highlight dieses Eilands sind die riesigen Landschildkröten, die einst von den Seychellen hier her gebracht wurden.

    Turtles 🐢 so weit das Auge reichte... obwohl gar keine Pizzeria in der Nähe war 😉😉

    Und irgendwie muss das hier ne ziemlich fruchtbare Ecke sein. Hier wurde geknattert was das Zeug hält. Alles was bei drei nicht auf dem 🌳war! Und da Schildkröten ja bekanntlicherweise nicht klettern können ging es hier so ziemlich rund😍😍😍.
    Außer 👉🏼👌🏼, ein bissle Grünzeug futtern und schlafen haben die nix zu tun. Ich glaub so würden wir auch ganz alt werden😉

    Weiter ging’s über die kleine übersichtliche Insel. Hier war früher mal ein Knäschtle in wahrhaft schönem Ambiente. Anschließend plantschten wir noch im warmen Wasser und bestaunten beim Schnorcheln 🤿 zahlreiche Korallen, farbenfrohe Seesterne und viele süße Fischle🦂🐠🐡

    Zurück am Ufer enterten wir die schöne Strandbar in idyllischer Lage mit erfrischenden Drinks 🍹 und schauten dem bunten Treiben zu.

    Zitat:
    „Wir haben jetzt für vier Drinks 8,40 € bezahlt. Da brauchen wir heute gar nichts mehr essen - dann können wir gleich weiter trinken...“ #happyhour 🙌🏼

    Auf dem Heimweg zum
    Hotel schlenderten wir noch ein bisschen durch die Geschäfte der Hauptstraße und kamen an einem Restaurant vorbei, das uns alte Bekannte auftischte ... Lobster 🦞 und Prawns 🦐 vom morgendlichen Fischmarkt landeten sehr schmackhaft angerichtet auf unseren Tellern.

    Zurück im Hotel, ging es es direkt ab auf die Schaukel und wir ließen den Tag beschwingt ausklingen.

    Morgen Früh geht wieder der Weckruf, denn es geht weiter auf die nächste Insel.

    Usiku mwema und liebe Grüße an alle Daheimgebliebenen 😘
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  • Day31

    Der letzte Tag in Freiheit....

    January 4 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Heute war unsere letzte Nacht und Nungwi und wieder mal wurden wir für frühes Aufstehen belohnt.
    Nach einem reichhaltigen Restefrühstück machten wir uns auf die FlipFlops in Richtung Schildkrötenauffangstation 🐢, die in einer Art Naturpool angesiedelt wird. Die freiwilligen Tierschützer kümmern sich um die verletzten Tiere, die von Fischern gefunden und hier her gebracht werden, sammeln und schützen die Eier vom Strand, ziehen die 🐢-Babies groß und wildern sie dann aus, wenn sie eigenständig überleben können.

    Wir waren die ersten Besucher und erlebten die funkelnde Magie der Stille an diesem wunderschönen Ort. Glücklicherweise war das Frühstück für die Panzerträger schon vorbereitet und wir durften es ihnen mit unseren Händen reichen, zusammen mit den Tieren schwimmen und schnorcheln 🤿 Da ging uns allen direkt wieder das kleine Herzchen auf. Das war wieder einer dieser Momente, der uns gut konserviert mit nach Hause und noch für eine lange Zeit begleiten wird ❤️

    Zurück im Häuschen machten wir uns frisch, packten die Rucksäckle, verabschiedeten uns von unserem Buddy Johnny und stiegen in das zweitbeste Taxi in Richtung Stonetown, da uns das erste versetzte...

    In Stonetown angekommen checkten wir in dem Hotel mit den Schaukeln an der Bar ein und fühlten uns direkt wieder heimisch. Nach kurzer Stärkung 🥘 machten wir uns auf dem Weg zum Markt und erkundeten die Stadt.
    Den Sunset sahen wir bei der HappyHour am Strand 😂🤦🏻‍♀️ und watschelten zum berühmten Streetfoodmarket Fahradhoni in der Nähe des Hafens und kosteten uns durch die Varianten der afrikanischen BBQ-Küche 🍗

    Unser letzter Abend an der Bar lief beschwingt ruhig, bis Claudi die Mail wegen eines vermeintlich abgesagten Fluges bekam.. aber wie immer lautete unser Motto „Hakuna Matata“ - Fehlalarm 🤞🏼
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    Wolfgang Lehmann

    Ich wünsche euch einen schönen letzten Abend und einen guten Flug👍👍😊

    1/4/21Reply
    Leberecht Thiele

    Gute Reise wünscht Vater Wölfchen

    1/4/21Reply
    Claudia Geisler

    Vielen lieben Dank. Ich melde mich dann gerne von unterwegs

    1/4/21Reply
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  • Day491

    Stone Town

    March 1, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Even though Tanganyika merged with the Zanzibar Archipelago in 1964 to form the United Republic of Tanzania, Zanzibar still considers itself almost independent, or at least the leader.
    One claim to fame is that it held the shortest war in history. The Anglo-Zanzibar War of 1896 lasted less than an hour, between 38 and 45 minutes.
    It was the usual story of gun-boat diplomacy and closely followed the Imperial rules of engagement:
    1. Sultan appoints a successor without consulting the British
    2. Miffed British Consul demands appointment of a more tractable puppet, Hamud bin Muhammed
    3. Sultan disdains option
    4. Royal Navy has some target practice on the Sultan's Palace; 4,100 machine gun rounds; 1,000 rifle rounds; and 500 shells were launched.
    5. Hamud found to be a worthy successor.
    6. War ends
    Now the town is invaded by hordes of unsuitably or partially dressed tourists flouting local sensibilities in the humid 34 degree heat.
    ------------
    One building, now the home of the Baraza La Manispaa Mjini or Municipal Council, is noteworthy for being "generally considered one of J.H. Sinclair's less-significant works"; perhaps not surprising for a man who after finishing his apprenticeship in 1891 joined the prestigious architectural office of John L. Pearson in London but "showed no great promise as an architect".
    Since he couldn't be an architect John Houston Sinclair became something in a new financial audit department of the Foreign Office in December 1893. They quickly shunted him off to East Africa to become the the local auditor for the East African Protectorate in Kenya, beginning a career in East Africa that would span 29 years.
    After three years in Mombassa he was posted to Zanzibar in April 1899 where, not learning from experience he built a number of structures in Stone Town, in a style described as "Saracenic," a mish-mash of Arabic, Portugese, Italian, Greek, Indian and Gothic vernaculars.
    The building was commissioned by a rich rich Indian merchant, Mohamedbhai Sheikh Hoosenbhai, who belonged to a Bohora family. Begun in 1922 and completed in 1923 it was originally a tenement block for clients of varying status, located in the Malindi Quarter of Stone Town on the edge of the creek that divided Stone Town from Ng'ambo. Thus, it is all facade and the rear is virtually undecorated.
    This is evident from the rent records that the owner's family occasionally occupied the building when tenants were scarce. In an effort to secure higher rent, the building was leased to the Senior British members of the Zanzibar protectorate probably around 1925, after JHS concluded his his time in Africa having reached the pinnacle of his career in the position of Resident from 1922-1924.
    Stone Town is now on the World Heritage list, with access to international funding to restore significant buildings. The canny Town Council now describe Bharmal Building as a beautiful, historic edifice exemplifying the rich Zanzibar fusion of Oriental and Romanesque architecture and plans are afoot for its restoration.
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    Tony Hammond

    Yes I've heard all about middle-aged white ladies going in search of a toy boy.....

    3/6/20Reply
    Roland Routier

    Bharmal Building

    3/7/20Reply
     
  • Day34

    Zanzibar - Stone Town 1

    February 8, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Nous voilà arrivés à Zanzibar, archipel autonome au gouvernement révolutionnaire, hérité d'une expérience de zanzibarites qui revenaient d'un Erasmus à la Havane. 

    Stone Town est un mélange d'influences des quatre coins de l'océan indien. Le passé esclavagiste de la ville est bien visible, notamment au travers des riches demeures construites par les marchands. Lors d'une visite à l'ancien marché aux esclaves on en apprend plus. Un paquet de monde trempait dans ce sale business : des Européens, des Arabes, et aussi des Africains qui servaient d'intermédiaires en kidnappant des pauvres malheureux chez leurs voisins. Des esclaves eux-mêmes possédaient parfois des esclaves : c'est toute la société qui était organisée sur la base du travail gratuit. Du coup quand ça s'est terminé tout le monde était complètement paumé.

    C'est la messe du dimanche à l'église. Alors on est désolés pour le cliché, mais c'est vrai que tout le monde chante et danse, même le prêtre se déplace parmi ses ouailles en se trémoussant. Limite on pourrait lancer une ola, ça ne ferait pas tellement tâche. Au Palace Museum le temps semble s'être arrêté dans les années 1960, quand le sultan du coin a été prié d'aller chercher un job ailleurs.
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    Gilles Drigout

    Où sont les frites ?

    2/12/20Reply
    Marie F

    On est au régime. Alors on boit que de la bière.

    2/12/20Reply
     
  • Day491

    Deja view

    March 1, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    When the taxi took me into the dark streets behind the fishing port, I was a little concerned about the standard of the cheap hotel I had found on booking.com
    In fact it was a wonderfully decorated old building that could have been a 1970's hippy hangout in Holland.
    I went up to the rooftop in the evening and found this terrace. There was a counter but no bar which surprised me as they would have made a fortunefrom its location.
    On my way to bed I was waylaid by a charming young Polish couple who insisted I join them for some Bacardi. How could I refuse. She was a gospel singer earning her living selling photovoltaic panels in a tiny, unpronounceable town in Poland and her friend Simon worked in Gloucester for Amazon. It was his 33rd birthday and they had gone to the roof expecting to find company to help celebrate, instead they found me and we had a jolly chat about life and philosophy at the postgraduate level as only a litre of duty-free rum can invoke.
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    Tony Hammond

    Sounds like it turned out a little of a rum do.....

    3/6/20Reply
    Tony Hammond

    Surrounded by Led Zeppelins by the looks of it .....C.

    3/7/20Reply
     
  • Day491

    Malindi Art

    March 1, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    The bar did open in the morning - for breakfast. A plate of fruit and an omelette accompanied by a pot of tea with milk on the side were all included in the 30,000 TSh room price. The shared bathrooms did not alter my appreciation of my first good brekky, the value for money and the amazing decorations. Some of the artwork, made from recycled materials and all usable, was inspired and every square inch of wall was covered in A3 sized prints and photographs from a variety of sources. Had to be seen to be believed ...Read more

    amazing! van

    3/4/20Reply
    Tony Hammond

    Now that's what I call recycling.....

    3/6/20Reply
    Tony Hammond

    Love the basin......not in the least tyresome! need to tread carefully though or you'll rubber someone up the wrong way. That would be a wrong Fiat which you may not be able to afFord oh dear....I'd better stop. but you can't accuse me of Nissan dorma.....x C.

    3/7/20Reply
     
  • Day41

    De retour à la ville de Corail

    February 15, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Dernier voyage en dala dala (pas sûr que ça nous manque!) pour rentrer à Stone Town, où le festival Sauti Za Busara bat son plein. Des musiciens venus de toute l'Afrique enchaînent les concerts au Fort arabe et dans les Jardins Forodhani. On tombe sur un groupe de marocains qui envoie un bon son gnawa rock. Dernier coucher de soleil pendant que les gamins jouent au foot sur la plage... Demain nous changeons de continent, destination Oman !Read more

    Gilles Drigout

    Solo de tapping ?

    2/15/20Reply
    Khalid J

    Sur tendon 😂

    2/15/20Reply
    Khalid J

    Awahié baba lgnawi ! Iyé mama lgnawia 🥁🎶🎶🥁

    2/16/20Reply
     
  • Day491

    Captivity

    March 1, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    "We must find new lands from which we can easily obtain raw materials and at the same time exploit the cheap slave labor that is available from the natives of the colonies. The colonies would also provide a dumping ground for the surplus goods produced in our factories." [Cecil Rhodes]

    “Captivity is the greatest of all evils that can befall one.” » Miguel de Cervantes

    Slavery has always existed in various forms and even the Roman Seneca the Younger wrote “Slavery takes hold of few, but many take hold of slavery.”
    The East African slave trade was funneled to the markets in Zanzibar, (although there were several others on the mainland,) partly because there was already a well established trading route run by Omani Arabs up the coast. In the 10th Century many slaves were sent to Iraq to fight in wars there, but by the 19th C the enormous numbers required to work in the cinnamon & clove plantations inspired several tribal groups to prey on each other.
    All of the main racial groups were involved in the slave trade in some way or other. French and Portugese used slaves in their plantations in the Indian Ocean islands (Martinique, Reunion etc), and Africans captured and sold prisoners taken in battle, or just kidnapped them. (The British developed the Western, Atlantic routes which competed for heads.)
    There was a fate worse than slavery: when there was a glut of potential slaves the Doe tribe north of Bagamoyo enjoyed eating the ‘excess supplies’.
    The trip down to the coast -often 1000 km - was unpleasant and an astonishing number died. One would imagine that the slavers would look after their assets but they were marched enormous distances daily on a bowl of gruel with a log around their necks or carrying enormous quantities of ivory. Any that couldn't make it were disposed of unceremoniously. Then, when they were near Zanzibar, the traders decided whether it was worth paying the tax or duty on each person: if not they were murdered on the beach.
    In Stone Town they were kept in various cellars such as the one photographed. Stuffy and claustrophobic, after an average of 3 days in here the weakest collapsed and were chucked on the beach to die. The rest were taken up to the market and apparently flogged on the spot where the Anglican Church's altar now stands; to increase their sale value if they didn't cry out. (I suspect this is a bit of hyperbole for the tourists but then, it wouldn't surprise me.) After all that, being sold must have seemed a minor problem for, whilst plantation life was certainly rough, domestic life was better than they might have had previously.
    One testimony in the exhibition on the site of the old slave markets, is from a woman who was accused of being someone's slave and managed to prove her manumission to the magistrate. She was awarded a sum of money and when asked what use she would make of the cash, said that she would buy a slave.
    Another celebrity was Salme (1824-1924), the daughter of Omani Sultan Sayeed Said (d. 1856) and a Circassian concubine from the Caucasus Mountains of Russia who was part of the his harem. She eloped with a German merchant, changed her name to Emily Ruete and wrote "Memoirs of an Arabian Princess from Zanzibar" about her life.
    Many women were suria, which was a state of slavery for them but not their children. This has resulted in a rich and varied gene pool in Zanzibar, often in particularly attractive people.
    In 1822, the Omani Arabs signed the Moresby treaty which made it illegal for them to sell slaves to Christian powers. After helping to convince Sultan Barghash of Zanzibar to abolish the trade on 6th June 1873, (in the usual British Diplomatic way,) the Royal Navy enforced the agreement by patrolling the waters and intercepting any dhows with human cargo.
    Interestingly, the good Anglican sailors deliberately attributed the trade in its entirety to heathen Mohammedans. In fact, the richest trader was the infamous Tippu Tip (1837-1905) otherwise known as Hamed bin Mohammed, who was African. Usually though, it was the Africans who collected and the Arabs who divested.
    Despite the best efforts of HM Navy, and numerous photos of rugged matelots lofting liberated and wriggling brown babies into the air, (one can rely on the British shoulder for innocent propaganda,) the trade continued, particularly on the mainland. Slaving was illegal but existed openly until Britain defeated the Germans in the First World War.
    Freedom was not all it cracked up to be, even when the illiterate and often isolated plantation slaves finally understood what it meant that they were free. Some slaves had even been allowed to save a little money they made for their owner and buy property: on manumission they lost the land. Worse, they could not stay on the plantation as squatters and had to leave, becoming vagrants and thus subject to imprisonment and hard labour. The British authorities were concerned about keeping the now government owned plantations running and offered minimal wages to ex-slaves to continue working. Restricted land rights and a compulsory hut tax made sure they never escaped.
    Thus the modern system of slavery was introduced. It has grown in the 21stC in every country of the world to somewhere between 21 to 36 million people. That is more than the number of slaves seized during the entire African slave trade. The International Labour Organisation has put the value of slave labour output at 150 billion USD annually. This includes bonded labour, forced labour, child slavery, early or forced marriage as well as descent based slavery.
    In the news over the past few days, the Australian Strategic Policy Institute revealed that the Uighurs were being captured and made to work as prisoners for multinational companies in China. They are an Islamic people of Turkic origin whom the Chinese Communist Party portrays since 9/11 as auxiliaries of al-Qaeda. Without any evidence. But that didn't stop the US locking 20 of them in Guantanamo Bay for years without being charged with any offence. We don't really care about them of course, (we care about big Brand names being tarnished and wasting all that advertising money,) but still it is slavery.

    “The distinguishing sign of slavery is to have a price, and to be bought for it.” [John Ruskin]
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    Mona's Meanderings

    Incredibly sad.

    3/4/20Reply
    Tony Hammond

    A fascinating and tragic history.....

    3/6/20Reply
     
  • Day18

    Frühstück im Beyt al Salaam

    March 12 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Heute verlassen wir nach 3 Nächten das Beyt al Salaam. Das Frühstück ist wie in den Tagen zuvor sehr reichhaltig, das Personal super freundlich und aufmerksam.
    Wir haben uns hier sehr wohl gefühlt, trotz der kleineren Probleme, zuletzt mit dem Wasser.
    Für die kommenden Tage geht es jetzt in den Norden.
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Mwembetanga