Lunch and beyond in Carcassonne

Following our morning of exploring and climbing and descending stairs in the Château and ramparts we were in need of sustenance. We went in search of a suitable restaurant for lunch and found one, LeWeiterlesen
Following our morning of exploring and climbing and descending stairs in the Château and ramparts we were in need of sustenance. We went in search of a suitable restaurant for lunch and found one, Le Jardin du Carcasses. We had a wonderful three course fixed price lunch on the terrace. It was a really excellent meal, and very reasonably priced. We started with a tomato salad with ham. Ian and Brigitte had steak for main and I had grilled octopus, and we finished with ice-cream, chocolate mousse and crème brûlée. We then spent a bit more time meandering around the narrow streets.
We still had a bit of time before the bus would pick us up, so we sat in the shade to just relax for a while. We then went to a café to have a drink before heading back to the meeting point to catch the return bus to Toulouse.Weiterlesen
We headed out this morning to see a bit more of Toulouse. Unfortunately, being a Monday, some monuments, museums, art galleries and churches were closed. Firstly, we found a lovely café to have some breakfast and, they made great coffee, which was a real bonus. We then headed down to the nearby Place De La Daurade, located next to the Garonne river and then wandered through the streets towards Place du Capitole.
Place du Capitole is a very large public square, with the Capitole building - the Toulouse city hall - located on one side. It was a fairly windy day and it was very gusty in the square, so much so that a couple of large umbrellas were blown over as we were walking past.
The Capitole building has gone through many changes through the centuries, with construction first beginning in 1190. It was a centre of contention during the 1562 Toulouse Riots with Huguenot forces holding it. The current facade, 135 m long and built of the characteristic pink Toulouse brick in Neoclassical style, dates from 1750 and was built according to the plans of Guillaume Cammas. Eugène Violet-le-Duc, who restored Château Comtal in Carcassonne, built a bell tower on top of the donjon (keep) of the building.
In the first half of the 19th century, the structures surrounding the vast Place du Capitole were redesigned but the current facade was not touched. Within the Toulouse City Hall there is a free exhibition of wonderful art which, luckily for us, was open.
As you head upstairs there are elaborate paintings and the staircase is made of marble. The first hall you enter is Gervais Hall, a former wedding hall. The Henri-Martin Room is the second room you enter. It is an historic room that regained its former splendour in the 20th Century thanks to the Toulouse painter Henri Martin (1860 - 1943). This room, built in 1605, is one of the oldest parts of the present Capitole. Until the Revolution it housed a gallery of portraits of the Capitouls (governing magistrates). The painter Henri Martin, who had made a name for himself in the Parisian salons was appointed in 1900 to decorate this newly restored room. His impressionist paintings were my favourite.
There is another large room, the Hall of Illustrious, which has amazing paintings on the ceiling. The paintings are very dramatic and over the top but still beautifully done.Weiterlesen
ReisenderI adore the fact that there is a Hall of Illustrious. What a brilliant and descriptive name.
We continued to explore the lovely streets of Toulouse, admiring the wonderful architecture. Next stop was the Basilica of St. Sernin. Apart from the church, none of the abbey buildings remain. The current church is located on the site of a previous basilica of the 4th century which contained the body of Saint Saturnin or Sernin, the first bishop of Toulouse in c 250.
Constructed in the Romanesque style between about 1080 and 1120, Saint-Sernin is the largest remaining Romanesque building in Europe. The church is particularly noted for the quality and quantity of its Romanesque sculpture. In 1998 the Basilica was added to the UNESCO World Heritage Sites under the description: World Heritage Sites of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France.
We then headed off in search of a nice restaurant for lunch and we found one. Ian had spotted this place earlier and it looked good. It was called Gueuleton, Le Repaire des Bons Vivants. The name appealed. Great staff (the manager had lived in South Melbourne for 3 years pre-COVID) and great service, with quality wine and delicious food. We ordered a local variety we haven’t had before, an AOP Fronton, which is 100% négrette. We all thought it was excellent, a good lunchtime wine. Ian had wanted to try this wine, but most restaurants sold mainly Gaillac wines or wines from other regions of France. Our waiter explained that this was because many of the producers had moved into cheap bulk wine, and this has tarnished its reputation.
Brigitte and I had ceviche for entree and Ian had pork on a bed of hummus, and for mains Brigitte and I had steak and Ian had grilled pork loin. This was the first steak I have had this holiday and it was absolutely delicious. We also had fries and salad with the main. We could not consider dessert, but we did have a cortado with a bit of cream, which is very naughty but nice. The waiter was a bit cheeky and, because they didn’t have milk - which the French don’t have in their coffee - he loaded it up with clotted cream.
We then headed off to explore the old part of Toulouse, which is located just behind our apartment. This was our Airbnb host’s favourite area and it didn’t disappoint. Next instalment to follow.Weiterlesen
After our sumptuous lunch we decided we needed to increase our steps. Nathalie, our Airbnb host, had suggested the area immediately behind our apartment to explore, telling us it was her favourite part of the city. As it turns out we, had been into the area (Les Carmes) as part of the wine bar tour, but everything looks different at night after a few wines!
We walked along the main street immediately behind our apartment, passing Notre-Dame de La Daurade, a basilica that was established in 410, when Emperor Honorius allowed the conversion of pagan temples to Christianity. The original building of Notre-Dame de La Daurade was a temple dedicated to Apollo.
As we meandered through the Les Carmes district we passed some lovely stores, restaurants and wine bars, but most were shut. There were a lot of hairdressers in this area - I spotted at least 5 or 6 within a couple of streets.
We saw Notre-Dame de La Dalbade, which has a very impressive Tympanum. A Tympanum is the area between the lintel over a doorway and the arch above. We also passed Hôtel d’Ulmo, a Renaissance Hôtel of the 16th century. It has been a listed historical monument since 1925. Another impressive building we passed was Hôtel de Pierre, a very fancy private home. It was impossible to tell if it is still a private home and if it was still inhabited.
At the end of the street we were in the Salin district. We then did a sharp left and walked back through the Les Carmes district, some of which we had seen the previous Saturday on our wine bar tour. We then headed back to the Main Street that runs across the Pont Neuf bridge, Rue de Metz. I had a hankering for an ice-cream, and we found a great place close by, Madame Bovary, Salon de Thé.
For our last dinner in Toulouse we went to the Brasserie Les Beaux-Arts, located very close to the Pont Neuf and our apartment. As we had had a very generous lunch, we decided to just have an entree and a dessert, with a bottle of Gaillac wine. It was delicious.Weiterlesen
The flight from Toulouse went smoothly and arrived on time. It was too early to check into our Airbnb, so we hung around the airport catching up on some reading and had an early lunch. We then caught a taxi to our apartment after texting the host to ask if we could get in early, which we could. It was a lovely and comfortable apartment in a nice area of Madrid called Embajadores. Many of the main attractions are within walking distance.
After unpacking we headed out to explore the area. We wandered through the Puerta del Sol square and then found our way to Plaza Mayor, which is a beautiful large square which, unfortunately, is partly obstructed by a large temporary building in the middle of the square due to a stamp trading fair having taken place and of course the requisite scaffolding as one of the buildings is cleaned/repaired. This did not take away from the vibe, with lots of people eating and drinking and, in some restaurants, bursting into song/chants. We’re not sure why. I will include a short video which captures one of these.
Our next stop was Mercado De San Miguel - a beautiful covered market - that was also covered in scaffolding due to refurbishment works. This didn’t stop people from hanging out eating and drinking. The stalls are beautifully presented and so vibrant. The market was so crowded we basically walked in and back out.
We then headed down towards the Royal Palace of Madrid, passing the Plaza de la Villa - it is a public square that borders the Calle Mayor and houses some of the oldest buildings around the city. We passed the Museum of the Almudena Cathedral, as well as the Cathedral itself that sits opposite the Royal Palace. We had intended to visit the Palace but the line for tickets was huge. Ian suggested we instead visit the recently opened Galeria de las Colecciones Reales (The Royal Collections Gallery). The visit requires a separate entry as it was an amazing building in itself with a wonderful collection.Weiterlesen
We firstly tried to buy tickets online but this was very difficult as the English website is still under construction. We had a go and I am now a member of the Patrimonio Nacional Espanol, but still no tickets. So, we did the old fashioned thing and walked into the Gallery and purchased tickets at the counter! Bueno.
The Royal Collections Gallery takes you on a journey through five centuries of art and culture in an absolutely remarkable building. It was designed by Tunón and Mansilla and has received ten architecture awards. The design is simple and understated but on a huge scale. The Gallery is built into the side of a hill and you begin on level 0 and head downwards along huge ramps to the different galleries.
There are three levels to visit. Level -1 is dedicated to the Hapsburgs. It starts with the last of the Trastámara dynasty, showing how the Catholic Monarchs began the custom of royal collecting. One of the most memorable Hapsburg reigns was that of Philip II, a great patron of the arts who launched many ambitious projects, including the iconic site of El Escorial. Included on this level are the remnants of the ninth-century city wall.
Level -2 is dedicated to the Bourbons and explores themes such as music, royal factories and workshops. It also shows the construction of the royal palaces of Madrid and La Granja. There is also an explanation of Patrimonio Nacional’s role as custodian of this vast cultural legacy.
Level -3 is designed as a more interactive and dynamic exhibition space. The Cube is a room that immerses you in an audio and visual experience taking you through several architectural and natural spaces managed by Patrimonio Nacional. Finally, there is a temporary exhibition gallery that currently is exhibiting royal carriages and a couple of Mercedes Benz cars made especially for the Royal family.Weiterlesen
ReisenderHow brilliant is the way the artist captures light and shadow. Incredible
A bit of the history of the shift from the Hapsburg dynasty to the Bourbons. Much to the surprise of those who expected him to name an heir from his own dynasty, Charles II stipulated in his will that the Spanish crown would pass to a Bourbon. The monarchy passed to Philip, born in 1683, the grandson of Louis XIV of France. He was king for 45 years as Philip V, the longest reign in the history of the Spanish monarchy.
That decision triggered a lengthy war of succession (1701-1714) in which Philip, allied with the French, fought the forces of the other pretender to the throne, Archduke Charles of Austria, who had the support of England and the Netherlands. The international consequences of this conflict was that Spain lost its territorial hegemony in Europe.
It was interesting to see a number of cartoons and other artistic works by artists such as Goya translated into tapestries by the Santa Barbara Royal Tapestry Factory in Weavers.
There was so much wonderful art on display I had to do a second page and also show the succession to the Spanish Throne.Weiterlesen
Today we had a very important job to do, we needed to get to the Australian Embassy and vote YES in the Voice Referendum. We had to take the metro out to the embassy, located in the suburb of La Paz. Ian worked out the route, which required one change, but was easy enough to achieve. We are very impressed with the Metro system in Madrid. It is clean and cool and, if you miss a train, another one arrives within 3 minutes. We arrived at the embassy which is located on level 24 of a tall tower. We had to go through security screening twice, once in the lobby and then again in the embassy. We also had to hand over all electronics, including my Apple Watch and our chargers, before we could go in and vote.
Once we got through all of that, the process was pretty straightforward. We filled in a form which we then signed in front of an embassy staff member, she then gave us the voting paper. When we returned it she had to confirm our electorate and place the ballot into an envelope while we watched.
There were a number of other Aussies there, all doing the right thing and voting, which was pleasing to see. We met a lady who has been living in Spain for 5 years and another couple who have been in Spain for 6 months, with the intention of making the move more permanent as they have retired.
When we left the embassy a number of planes in formation did a flyby right over us. Some seemed to get very close to some of the tall towers in the area. We have no idea what it was in aid of.
We then caught the metro back into the centre of town. We found a nice café close to the Prada Museum to stop at for a coffee and snack, we decided we would walk to our lunch engagement and just stroll through different areas and check out the sites. We passed lovely neighbourhoods and several churches and government buildings, as well as some other interesting statues, art and fountains. It is a lovely way to discover what you may well otherwise miss.
We arrived at the restaurant Sala De Despiece a few minutes early, so we checked out the surrounding area till the allotted time.Weiterlesen
ReisenderAh brings back memories from April. Photo 14 is where we stayed.
We had seen this restaurant on Somebody Feed Phil and decided it looked pretty good, so made a reservation several months ago. We were really looking forward to this experience and were not disappointed. From the moment you walk through the door you are greeted by happy smiling faces. The restaurant is quite small, it probably only seats between 22 and 26 patrons.
We sat up at the bar and were looked after by Raphael and Dominica. Raphael took us through the menu and, once he got a feel for what we liked, suggested dishes. Most of the dishes were quite small, but so much thought and work goes into every one. Most are like works of art, and many are prepared right in front of you with a blow torch and tweezers.
Dominica has been working at the restaurant for a number of years and she made some wonderful suggestions regarding the wine we should have to accompany the food.
We started off the meal with some tasty fried bits of dough that were bloody delicious. Next was a fried artichoke with avocado cream and caviar. It was one of my favourite dishes, just absolutely delicious. Next was the ‘Rolex’ which is a strip of Parma ham with a piece of foie gras in the middle and topped with a semi set egg yolk. The ham is cooked with a blow torch and then cut in half, rolled up and torched some more. The end result is a mouthful of deliciousness. This was followed by beef carpaccio which, again, is deftly prepared in front of you with such artistry and flare. The meat is smeared with tomato and eggplant, then rolled up into a wonderfully tasty morsel.
We then had the tomato and tuna - yum. This was followed by zucchini flowers dipped in this artistic smear of deliciousness that was cream, roasted tomato and beetroot. It was pleasing to the eye and the palate. We then had grilled octopus, which was the largest dish, served with romesco and squid ink sauce. As Ian isn’t a big fan of octopus, he had deep fried crystal prawns. They serve the prawns with their shell and include their fried heads. I love prawn heads that have been deep fried, but Ian hadn’t tried them. I am proud to say that he tried the heads and I believe he quite liked them.
We are getting close to the finish line with two savoury dishes remaining. The first was smoked eel first cooked with a blow torch, then topped with foie gras that has been torched and finally crowned with some grated apple. It is all covered in a divine sauce. This dish was very rich but so so good. Our final dish was beef tacos. The tray arrived with an egg yolk and various strips of chilli peppers in the shape of the sun. In a bowl was a white ball, which looked like ice cream but we are told is wagyu beef covered in a layer of fat. Raphael began torching the white sphere which slowly melted, revealing a ball of chopped wagyu beef strips that were slowly cooked. As the meat cooks and the fat melts Raphael gets out the soft tacos which are in themselves a work of art and very colourful. He divides the yolk into four and smears a bit on each taco, then has a discussion with us regarding how much chilli heat we can take. We decided to stick with medium and so our tacos were assembled. They too are delicious. Finally we had a dessert to share which was a custard type thing with berries, and was a nice way to finish what had been an exceptional meal.
In relation to what we drank, I started with a rosé from Provence and Ian had a Spanish beer. We then had a glass of white wine, Lapola Ribeira Sacra, a beautifully balanced but dry white that was a blend of Albariño and Godello. We then had a cider made from 20 types of apples. It was called Valverán, 20 Manzanas and was the perfect accompaniment to the eel. Lastly we had a glass of red, San Cobate La Finca, from Ribera Del Duero, which was the perfect pairing with the wagyu.Weiterlesen
Our lunch at Sala De Despiece was quite the show and so I need a second page to show the rest of the delicious dishes we had and the work that went into creating them. I have also included a video of the meat and sauce being prepared for our wagyu beef tacos, as well as the wine we drank during the lunch.Weiterlesen