Europe 2023

We are off to Europe to catch up with family, explore new cities and revisit some favourites. We will also be joining a walk and wine tour with Explore through Spain and Portugal. Meer informatie

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Soggy Tuesday
17 oktober 2023, Portugal
Today we had a free day to explore the city. Unfortunately, it was going to be raining heavily for most of the day. After conferring with the others, six of us headed off for the Paläcio da Bolsa (stock exchange) down by the river. We stopped to have a look at Porto Cathedral and decided to go in, as the rainfall was getting heavier and heavier.

Sé do Porto (Cathedral of the Assumption of Our Lady) is a Roman Catholic church located in the historical centre of Porto. It is one of the city’s oldest monuments and one of the most important local Romanesque monuments. Work began on it in 1110 and was completed in 1737. The Cathedral contains elements of Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque styles. There are 30 main churches in Porto. While there, we ran into Mark who decided to join us as we headed down towards the water.

We left the cathedral, and of course it started to rain again. We were walking down steep and narrow laneways as water gushed past us. To say we were getting wet was an understatement. To make things more uncomfortable the humidity was at about 100%.

We stopped for a drink at a little bar to get out of the rain, and then headed off again for Paläcio da Bolsa. When we finally made it to the big square opposite, where there is a large statue of Henry the Navigator, we found a huge line of people waiting to get in, huddled under umbrellas. So, we decided to head into a restaurant across the way called the Hard Club, located in what used to be a market. The restaurant was spacious and comfortable and could accommodate us so we settled in for lunch. We had a great time, with fabulous food, wine and company.

On leaving the restaurant, we could see that the line for Paläcio da Bolsa was just as long and it was starting to rain again! So we abandoned the idea of visiting it today. We headed down to the river to check out some stores and then a number in the group decided to go to a museum. Ian and I instead went to Ag Jewels, owned by Pedro and his wife Paola, where I found some gorgeous earrings and some other bits and pieces.

Ian and I then decided to walk back up to our hotel. Again on the way home we had to seek refuge as the rain was so heavy. We stopped for coffee and cake at a lovely café before the final walk up the hill to our hotel. We had a bit of a rest before going out for the final group dinner.Meer informatie
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Final Group Dinner
17 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 20 °C
We headed off for our last group dinner to a local traditional Portuguese restaurant called Douro Sentido. I think everyone was a little tired, especially with the humid weather. The food was good. I had grilled octopus, Ian had a cod dish and we shared a dessert. We also had a nice bottle of white wine and even indulged in a glass of port. Joanne gave a lovely speech thanking Gabriele for being such a great tour leader and making it such a memorable experience.

A number of people in the group had been unwell over a couple of days and it turns out several of them tested positive to COVID once they got home. Luckily Ian and I seemed to have missed it.Meer informatie
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Porto post the Tour
18 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
By the time we headed down to breakfast most of the tour group had already departed or was heading to the airport to fly home. We met Mark in the breakfast room and arranged to have lunch with him, as he wasn’t heading home until later in the day and we couldn’t check in to our Airbnb until after 3pm.

As we didn’t have to check out until noon, we headed out to grab a few things and then just finish packing and relaxed. We left our bags at the hotel and met Mark at reception at noon. We once again tried to find Tapabento to have lunch, but were unsuccessful. So, we headed down to the Ribeira area to find a suitable place. We were able to get a table at The RC Restaurante. This is an historical restaurant that has preserved its decoration and architecture from the time of its foundation in 1894. It is also classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. It offers traditional Portuguese cuisine.

We had a great lunch. Ian had Hake, Mark had Salmon and I had Dover Sole. We even indulged in a dessert. We then walked back to the hotel, said farewell to Mark and grabbed our luggage for the short walk to our Airbnb.Meer informatie
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Our home for the next few days
18 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 20 °C
Our apartment was located across the road from the Mercado Bolhāo, which is a wonderful location. The apartment itself was just gorgeous - comfortable and stylish with everything required for a great stay. Matheus came over to meet us and took us through how everything operates in the apartment.

We then headed out to the market to get some supplies for dinner. We planned to drink a couple of the bottles of wine we accumulated on the Explore trip over the next few evenings. We had a delicious Chacuterie board for dinner with a bottle of rosé, and we also did a big wash, so we now had clean clothes again.Meer informatie
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Food Tour of Porto with Manu
19 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 17 °C
This morning we took a food tour. It was still very wet, so rain jackets and umbrellas were a must. We met our guide Manu and the others at the Paços do Concelho. There were seven of us on the tour, Brandon and Amanda from Toronto, Mikhel and Claudia from Dresden, and Lauren from Florida. Manu was a lovely young man who is passionate about Porto’s food, culture and history.

Our first stop was one of the oldest cafés in Porto, called Guarany, which pays homage to the indigenous people of Brazil, where they get their coffee from. Coffee is very important to the Portuguese, both as a great drink at breakfast, and also from a social perspective. They love to meet for coffee morning, noon and night. For breakfast, they have a preference for something light, such as thick toast with butter and some kind of pastry. So, at Guarany we had toast with butter, a croissant and a Pingo (similar to a piccolo or macchiato).

We then headed to our next tasting. Initially I was confused as we first entered a hardware store that specialises in handles and assorted objects for the home. However, at the rear of the store was a lovely cafe - bar including a gorgeous terrace which, unfortunately, was not suitable today. We had a wine and cheese tasting: - three cheeses (goat, sheep and cow), and a lovely glass of red from the Alentejo region.

We then headed to the Balhāo market, which translates to the big bubble. The large market was established in the 18th century, but had been in decline during the 20th century. It was renovated between 2019 and September 2022 and is now thriving. They have done a wonderful job of renovating the site. It is one of the cleanest and well set out markets I have ever been to.

There are a number of historical vendors who have been associated with this market for generations and we visited two of them. At Hugo Silva we tried Green wine, sardines in olive oil and cod. Everything was delicious but the sardines were a standout for me. We then moved to the other side of the market to the Mangalica stall to sample four meats, Jamon Iberico, Sal Picāo Ibeturo, Linguiça Porco Preto and a smoked Lomo. Next we headed to Manteigaria, located close to the market, for a pastel de nata that was still warm and absolutely bloody delicious. Next stop was Conga, a Porto institution. Here we had spicy pulled pork rolls, which paired very well with beer.

Our last stop was at a mixed food store, Casanatal, where we had white port with a stuffed fig. The fig wasn’t the only thing stuffed at this stage! The store was like an Aladdin cave - full of treasures you can eat and drink!

The tour was a fabulous way to see a bit of the city and also gain some insight into Portuguese food culture, and Manu was a very generous host, both with his time and with the knowledge he shared. The tour finished around the corner from our apartment so we didn’t have far to stagger!Meer informatie
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Thursday afternoon in Porto
19 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
After the food tour I had an appointment to get my nails done. Once I finished, I headed back to Mercado Balhäo to meet Ian for a coffee and a delicious biscuit. Once we had our caffeine and sugar hit we were ready to do a bit more exploring of Porto. We headed to Torre dos Clérigos and past the Livraria Lello, the book store that was one of the inspirations for J.K. Rowling when she was developing the Harry Potter books. As usual, there was a huge line to get into the bookstore and, as we had visited it previously, we decided not to bother. We walked past the churches Igreja das Carmelitas and Igreja do Carmo - still impressed with the tile work, it’s just gorgeous.

A new park has been built opposite Livraria Lello called Jardin des Oliveiras, where there are olive trees, grassed areas and a cool bar called BASE, where we stopped for a drink. They had good white Sangrias, a fabulous play list and a wonderful view of Torre dos Clérigos.

Rain clouds started gathering, so we thought we should keep moving and had a walk through Jardin Da Cordoaria with its misshapen (whomping) trees and fabulous statues of old guys laughing and falling off a bench. We then started making our way home to have a relatively quiet evening, as we had another big day tomorrow.Meer informatie
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Portuguese Breakfast
20 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 14 °C
This morning we decided to have a traditional Portuguese breakfast. We went to the oldest café in Porto Confeitaria do Bolhāo, which is located across the road from Mercado Bolhāo, and which began operations in 1896.

For breakfast we had buttered toast, a pastry, orange juice and a Pingo. This was a good way to start our day: - caffeine, carbs and a sugar hit.Meer informatie
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Palácio Da Bolsa
20 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
After our Portuguese breakfast we were definitely sugared up and full of energy. We decided we would try for the third time to do a tour of the Palácio da Bolsa and, third time lucky. There was no long line outside, so we waited in line and purchased tickets for the 11 am tour in English.

The Palácio da Bolsa is in the historical centre of the city, located on one side of the Infante D. Henrique Square, and is classified as a World Heritage site by UNESCO. It was built by the Porto Commercial Association on the ruins of the Saint Francis Convent in Neoclassical style.

Queen Mary II donated the ruins to the city merchants in 1841, who decided to build the seat of the Commercial Association here. Building began in 1842 following the plans of Porto architect Joaquim da Costa Lima Júnior. Most of the palace was finished by 1850, but the decoration of the interior was only completed in 1910 and involved several artists. The staircase alone took 40 years to complete as it is carved out of granite.

The Stock Exchange Palace is the literal translation of the name. It operated as Portugal’s stock exchange until 1994. The building and it’s amazing rooms are now open to the public for tours, most rooms are available to hire for functions. They still have formal events here, movies have used the rooms and there was even a divorce party celebrated earlier this year.

The most impressive room is the Arabian room which took 18 years to complete. It contains 20 kg of gold leaf and was inspired by the Alhambra Palace in Granada. There are two inscriptions located in the walls. One roughly translating to “With the divine support of God” and another translating to “Glory to the large Mary II”. Gustavo Adolfo Gonçalves e Sousa oversaw the architectural details of this room.Meer informatie
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Tapabento for lunch
20 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
We had been looking for Tapabento for days! They have a big on-line presence but when we followed directions with our phone, we ended up at an empty store front. What the! Finally this morning, I asked someone who works next door to where Tapabento used to be located and he pointed behind me! They have literally moved across the road and are now situated inside Sāo Bento train station. We must have walked past within a metre of it about ten times, but it was easy to miss because of the construction work that is taking place.

We were there just before opening at noon and hoped they could fit us in. Isabelle, who owns the restaurant, greeted us and welcomed us back! We showed her a photo taken of Ian and her nearly exactly 4 years ago. Ian took a photo of me with Isabelle this time and she asked us to send her copies, which we did, and she loved it.

The new space is really nice, very spacious, with high ceilings and you can see the trains come and go, which is pretty cool. We ordered drinks, me a Porto Tonico and Ian a rosé and we chose some tapas and a salad to share. We had croquettes, tuna tartare with avocado on toast, tortilla and a mixed salad. All the food was fresh and delicious, as we expected, and we had room for dessert - a chocolate mousse with some biscuit crumb, vanilla cake and hazelnut ice-cream.

We enjoyed it so much we booked in for lunch the following day as well.Meer informatie
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We got the Braga rights
20 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
We had arranged with Pedro to do another tour with his company Peter’s Beetle, as we had had great fun n 2019. As the weather was a bit all over the place, we agreed to the tour being in the Passat instead of the Beetle convertible. We were pretty flexible as to what the tour would include as we have done the introduction to Porto tour previously. Pedro suggested we drive up to Braga, about a 35 minute drive north of Porto and we thought this sounded like a plan.

We headed off and out of the city and onto the freeway with Pedro giving a running commentary and, before you knew it, we were there. We first drove up to the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus do Monte. It is a Catholic shrine in Tenões, outside the city of Braga. It’s name means Good Jesus of the Mount. This sanctuary is a notable example of a Christian pilgrimage site with a monumental Baroque stairway that climbs 116 metres up from below. Bom pilgrims climb it on their knees. On 7 July 2019 it was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The views were amazing and the inside of the church, particularly the altar, was quite unusual. There are a number of swanky hotels up there and it would be a nice place to just chill for a couple of days. You also get lovely views back over Braga.

On the way out we had a very funny experience. Pedro had driven ‘down’ a hill near the Sanctuary and stopped the car. He then said “Can you hear Jesús calling? He’s calling you back.” As he had just locked the car, we weren’t quite sure what to think. He then put the car in neutral and let go of the steering wheel and the car started to roll ‘up’ the hill with some speed. He did this several times and we were in on the joke. We were all rolling around with laughter. He said he used to go on holidays to Braga when he was a kid and his Dad used to love to do this. Where not sure what it was, but it was all a bit Twilight Zone.

We then drove down to the old historic town of Braga, where we walked around and got a feel for the place. Braga is host to the oldest Portuguese Catholic archdiocese, and it is a seat of the Primacy of the Spain and Portugal. During the Roman Empire, then known as Bracara Augusta, the settlement was the capital of the province of Gallaecia and one of the first to separate from the Roman Empire. Within the city there is a castle tower. Nowadays, Braga is a major hub for inland Northern Portugal and is an important stop on the Portuguese Way of St James.

We also visited the Braga Cathedral. Due to its long history and artistic significance, it is one of the most important buildings in the country. It is the seat of the Archdiocese of Braga and of the Primate Archbishop of Portugal and Spain. The Cathedral has been classified as a National Monument since 1910. It was established in 1089 and the architect was João de Castillo. The Cathedral has Gothic, Moorish, Manueline and Baroque styles throughout. It also has an extremely impressive organ set up.

The old historical city of Braga is beautifully set out, nice and flat and so easy to get around. There are lovely plazas and restaurants and streets with lovely stores. The pace in Braga seemed a bit more relaxed and laid back compared to Porto.Meer informatie
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ReizigerLeo Conlan used to talk about a road where your car rolled up a hill. I don't understand it
24-10-2023ReagerenVertalen
ReizigerThere is one in Victoria near Hanging Rock, it is called straw lane from memory. I was there years ago and you do feel like you are going uphill backwards with your car in neutral we will have to go there one day.
25-10-2023ReagerenVertalen
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Porta4
20 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
This restaurant had been recommended to me by Stephanie Hall. It is in an extremely tiny space, with only six tables that seat two people, two chefs and two wait staff. They have an interesting wine list and a fairly small but very interesting menu. The dishes are all seasonal, reflecting the local produce that is currently available. The restaurant has been running for eight years and was totally booked out for the two seatings.

We started with a shared platter of Portuguese cheese and sausages. We had two mains which we also shared; sea bass on a bed of spinach, chickpeas and parsley was the first dish. This was followed by Pork done a secret way with sweet potato, capsicum and herbs. Both dishes were absolutely delicious.

To go with this fabulous meal we had a bottle of red made from the Aragonez (a local name for Tempranillo) and Tourgiga Nacional. We also indulged in dessert - Ian had a chocolate cake with a strawberry ginger sauce and I had the dessert of the week, which was an almond torte. Both were very good. We also indulged in a white port to follow dessert.

We had a great night, met some lovely people and got to chat with the chef and find out a bit more about the dishes. We then had a 20 minute stroll back to our apartment through lovely Porto. Life is good.Meer informatie
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TapaBento take 2
21 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
We had a leisurely Saturday morning. We walked around our burb, got some pastel de nata (just out of the oven) and coffee from Manteigaria. We then walked up the main boulevard of Porto, Santa Catarina to look at the shops before heading off to TapaBento for lunch.

We were warmly greeted by Isabelle again and given “our table”. We were served by Rita and Gaurav again and it was so relaxed and enjoyable. Today we started with a tapas but then we both chose main meals. Today I tried their white Sangria which was very good and Ian had a white. We also indulged in a dessert to share, and Isabelle gave us oxtail dumplings to try, which were delicious.Meer informatie
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Jardins do Palácio de Cristal
21 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
After our wonderful lunch we decided we should probably do a bit of exercise and so we headed off to Jardins Palácio de Cristal, a garden that has views back to the centre of Porto and down the Douro River. It was nice to take a slow walk through an area we haven’t been to before and take in the lovely sights and architecture and tiles!

The gardens are very nice and full of peacocks, geese, ducks and chooks - yes chooks. I must admit they do look a bit out of place in a very formal and manicured garden, but they were quite posh ones. The views were also very nice indeed.Meer informatie
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Quinta dos Lobos
22 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 16 °C
We were up early this morning for our bus trip to Sinatra. Felipe, our UBER driver, was on time and got us to the large and modern Campanhã bus station with plenty of time to spare to catch our 8:25 am bus, which ended up being a bit late. The journey was about 3.5 hours, and it rained for much of the journey. At just under 15 euros each for the 280 km journey (seat plus luggage), this was amazing value.

We arrived in Sinatra a bit after 1 pm and grabbed a cab to take us to our hotel - it cost about the same as the bus trip! It was lovely to be back in Sinatra with its narrow winding streets, colourful buildings and palaces.

The Quinta dos Lobos (Farm of the Wolves) hotel we stayed at was recommended by Nadia, who we met on our 2019 trip to Portugal when she took us on a day trip to Sintra. The hotel was owned and designed by an artist friend of her’s, Dayane, has only been open for a year and has only eight rooms. We had to wait about 30 minutes to get into our room. The nice guy on reception made us a coffee to have while we waited. The hotel is located in large grounds, which are lovely, with peacocks roaming freely.

Our room was in a separate building from the main hotel building, and was only completed about a month ago. It was large, stylish and comfortable, and the hotel is gorgeous.Meer informatie
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First peek at Sintra
22 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 15 °C
Once we unpacked, we headed off in search of food and to check out the local area. On our way into Sintra we passed a number of beautiful old buildings in wonderful condition and a couple of the palaces, including the Palacio Da Quinta da Regaleria, which we had visited on our day trip to Sintra in 2019. Being Sunday afternoon there were lots of people out and about, including large tour groups parading about the place.

We passed a five star hotel called Lawrences that had a restaurant, so we thought we would give it a go and we are glad we did. It was a beautiful restaurant with lovely staff and great food and wine. As we were going out for dinner, we only had a light lunch of olives, codfish croquettes (best ever) and a cheese board. I had a glass of green wine and Ian had a local red, both were excellent.

After being watered and feed we kept walking into the centre of the old city of Sintra to check out the tourist info centre, the Sintra National Palace and the shops. We bought tickets for the public bus so that we could get up to to Peña Palace the following day. We walked up some narrow and winding laneways to check out what was on offer in relation to pastries. We saw a few fine establishments, which we took note of so that we could return to the next day to try out their products.

We ventured further up a laneway and discovered a lovely place called Bar Fonte Da Pippa where we stopped for a drink. I had a white Sangria and Ian had a beer. The Sangria was the best I have had this trip and gets an A+. We chatted to a lovely British couple and their five year old daughter Hattie before heading back to our hotel.

We had about an hour before we headed out again for dinner. I had booked a place called Romania de Baco, which got very good reviews and did not disappoint.Meer informatie
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Pena Palace
23 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C
We pre-booked our tickets to visit Pena Palace and I am so glad we did. We walked into Sintra to catch a public bus up to the palace, we found the bus stop and waited. What we experienced was a unending line of tour buses letting out huge groups right where we were waiting. It was like tsunami of tour groups - our worst nightmare. The buses were lined up four in a row, double and triple parked, blocking traffic and generally causing pandemonium. A local plod eventually stepped in and restored a bit of order.

Our bus, the 434, eventually managed to get through but had nowhere to stop. Finally, there was room and the bus driver pulled in. We all hopped on and headed off on what we had been told was about a 15 minute bus ride up to the palace. We stopped near Sintra train station to let more people on and then stayed put for at least 15 minutes. We could see the clock ticking down to our 10:30 am entry time (which we were told was strictly enforced), so I asked the driver when we might start moving. He said that he would be departing in 5 minutes but, not to worry they, would let us in. We were only dropped off outside the gate of the Peña Palace at 10.40 am. Then, to my horror, I realised we have to schlepp up a steep hill to get to the castle. By the time we reached the line it was 10.55 am and the 11 am group were about to be let in. Lucky, the guy scanning tickets took pity and told us to walk ahead of the 11 am group. We finally entered the palace just before 11 am and I was sweating from head to toe.

I could now breath normally again and slowly recovered as we walked slowly through this most impressive building following the long conga line of other tourists. Peña Palace stands on the top of a hill in the mountains above the town of Sintra. On a clear day the castle can easily be seen from Lisbon. It is a national monument and is one of the major expressions of 19th century Romanticism in the world. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the seven wonders of Portugal. And, it’s very crowded.

The castle’s history started in the Middle Ages when a chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Peña was built on top of the hill above Sintra. Then in 1493, King John, accompanied by his wife Queen Leonor, made a pilgrimage to the site to fulfill a vow. His successor, King Manual I, was also fond of this sanctuary, and ordered the construction of the monastery, which was donated to the Order of Saint Jerome. For centuries Peña was a small quiet place for meditation, housing a maximum of 18 monks.

In the 18th century the monastery was severely damaged by lightening and then the Great Lisbon earthquake, reduced it to ruins. For decades the ruins remained untouched. In 1838, King Ferdinand II decided to acquire the old monastery, all the surrounding lands, the nearby Castle of the Moors and a few other estates in the area.
He then proceeded to transform the remains of the monastery into a palace that would serve as a summer residence for the Portuguese royal family. Construction took place between 1842 and 1854.

In 1995, the palace and the rest of the Cultural Landscape of Sintra were classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

It is simply breathtaking to see and the craftsmanship on display is quite wonderful. There area a number of different styles including Neo-Gothic, Neo-Manueline, Neo-Islamic and Neo- Renaissance. We spent a couple of hours exploring the palace and it’s gardens.Meer informatie
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Pena Palace #2
23 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
I have to do a second page on the palace to show some of the beautiful furnishings, ceilings and general vibe of the palace from an internal perspective.
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Castle of the Moors
23 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
After the over the top Peña Palace we walked down the hill to the Castelo Dos Mouros (Castle of the Moors). In fact it isn’t a castle any longer but the ruins of what was once I imagine quite an impressive castle.

It was a medieval hilltop castle built by the Moors in the 8th and 9th centuries. It was an important strategic point during the Reconquista, which were the military campaigns that Christian kingdoms waged against the Muslim kingdoms following the Muslim conquest of Spain (710-780).

In the 12th century, the chapel constructed within the walls of the castle became the parish seat. It was also remodelled under King Sancho I of Portugal. In 1375 King Ferdinand I of Portugal, ordered the rebuilding of the castle. It was well fortified by 1383, but most inhabitants were abandoning the castle for the old village of Sintra. By the 16th century a small Jewish community was using and occupying the castle but they were expelled by Manuel I of Portugal.

The 1755 Lisbon earthquake caused considerable damage to the chapel and affected the stability of the castle. It was classified as a National Monument, part of the Sintra Cultural Landscape, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We clambered up and down the walls of the castle, which provided great views down over Sintra. Some of the paths along the walls were very narrow and didn’t have any railings, which made it interesting and a bit scary when we passed people going the opposite way.Meer informatie
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More memories of Sintra
23 oktober 2023, Portugal
After exploring the Moorish Castle we decided to walk back into town. It was about a 1.5 km walk, down a winding path through a shady forest. Being downhill it was was much easier going but, as it was a little wet, we needed to be mindful of slipping. We got lovely views of the town as we made our way down.

Our first stop on arriving back in town was at a cafe to have some afternoon tea. We had a Travesseiro de Sintra (Sintra pillow) pastry, which was very nice, with a coffee and this gave us the caffeine and sugar hit required to do a little more exploring around Sintra.

While going up to the Peña Palace on the bus, we had noticed some sculptures along the main road which are part of a public Art Exhibition. There were a number of excellent pieces on display. We then headed back to the hotel for a bit of R & R before heading out for dinner.Meer informatie
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The Peacocks of Quinta dos Lobos
24 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
The peacocks on the property we stayed at in Sintra were quite tame and beautiful. On the morning we were leaving they finally put on a bit of a show and shook their tail feathers. They were trying to impress one of the pea hens but she was having none of it.Meer informatie
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Soggy Lisbon
24 oktober 2023, Portugal
We left a wet Sintra just after 11 am. We had booked an UBER as I was over schlepping luggage on and off trains plus I had bought a couple of things and my bad was getting heavier. Our driver, Wagner dropped us off at our Lisbon apartment about 12.30 pm and luckily we were able to get early access (thanks Marta & Maria).

Our apartment was lovely and so centrally located, very close to the main square Praça do Comércio. After unpacking and getting settled into our new home for the next five days, we headed out for lunch. It was a very rainy day so we decided to head to the Time Out Market. It was very crowded, but it was to be expected as the rain just kept getting heavier. The market has food and drink stalls around the outside and large communal tables in the middle, but space was at a premium.

We ordered some food (empanadas and fried squid) and wine and then looked for a place to prop. A guy was leaving a seat at a table, so we grabbed it and we were able to at least have a spot to put our food. There were another two couples sitting with us and we started chatting to them. One couple, Jackson and Courtney, were from Ontario and the other couple, Christina and Alphar, were from Germany. They were very friendly and up for a yarn. We had a wonderful afternoon chatting with them and having a few drinks.

We finally had to say goodbye and, before leaving, had a warm pastel de nata with a pingado (small) coffee. We then headed out and it was bucketing down. My little cheap umbrella was not cutting it - as well as pelting down the wind was getting stronger - so we stopped at a store and bought me a new umbrella, which at least kept the top half of me fairly dry. On our way home we made a detour to a supermarket to pick up some supplies.

Today the city was full of chanting and happy Basque football fans, conspicuous in their blue and white jumpers, as the San Sebastián team (Real Sociedad) was playing a local Lisbon team (Benfica) in the European champions league. They were out and about everywhere and packing the bars. There were also a lot of police around, some with riot shields and machine guns, presumably just in case the crazy Basques got out of control. On our way home we ran into some Basque fans drinking at a bar who we had a quick chat to before heading back to the apartment to get out of our wet clothes. The Basque team won and, to our great surprise, the city was very quiet at night.

In the evening we had dinner at a Peruvian restaurant, QOSQO, which we had been to twice in 2019. As expected, the food was delicious.Meer informatie
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Sunny Lisbon
25 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
We decided to head out and just explore the “hood” this morning. We first wandered down to Praça do Comércio to see what was happening, and it was much quieter than the previous day as all the Basques had gone home. We then had a great time just wandering the narrow streets and laneways, and climbing many stairs, in the Alfama district. We did a bit of shopping and also stopped for a pastel de nata and a pingado. We met an interesting American women who was on her way to Malta to play in a big stakes poker competition.

There were a lot of British tourists about as there were a number of large cruise ships docked. We talked to some people from Southhampton who told us they only had four hours in the city. Lucky for them it wasn’t raining.

Lisbon is a colourful and lively city and it is so good to be back.Meer informatie
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Sunny Lisbon #2
25 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
There was so much to see and so much beautiful street art and tiles to discover as we wandered about this morning. The colour and vibrancy of this city is wonderful.
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Amazing alma
25 oktober 2023, Portugal
We arrived at the allocated time and found a locked green door. There was a bell which Ian suggested I push and, like magic, the door opened and we were greeted by a lovely young woman. We were then taken into a lovely large room with high ceilings and beautiful wooden tables which were generous in size and well spaced apart. The young lady then handed us over to Gonçalo, who introduced himself as our sommelier.

We decided to start with an aperitif, Ian a dry Madeira and me French bubbles. As we sipped on our drinks, Francisco introduced himself and gave us the menu. He explained that there were two tasting menus or a la carte to choose from. We decided to go for the tasting menu and chose the ‘The Alma’ which is a menu inspired by the Chef’s classics.

I had to take notes as we had each offering as there were six flavour bombs that were presented before we got the bread and first course. We first had a burrata and pickled strawberry tart; next was a soup from the Algave - prawn, celery, fennel and caviar. This was followed by Roasted pork skin with suckling pig crumb and a chilli mayo (Ian declared he could have eaten 20 of them). Next was a dish that was supposed to resemble a french fry and ketchup, but which was actually a fried strip of red capsicum coated in a charcoal crumb, and the ketchup was a roasted red pepper sauce with a gel. This concluded the pre-amuse-bouche courses!

We then had tuna tartare with ginger, lemon cress and fried capers. Next was a bread and seafood mousse with a sardine, fried onions and sandfire. The last amuse bouche was a cucumber and jack fish gazpacho with finger limes. It was a seasonal melon that has a taste profile like a cucumber and is only available in September and October. It was a great palate cleanser. By this stage we had been there about an hour.

The first actual course of the menu was a carrot dish - carrots, bulghur, apricot purée, goats cheese and cumin oil. It was spectacular and I would turn vegetarian if all meals tasted like this one! Second course was Foie Gras with apple, granola, beetroot and coffee. This dish was superb and even Ian enjoyed the Foie Gras as it was so light and masterfully prepared. Third course was Salted cod (we are in Portugal, so cod had to figure in the menu). It was prepared with coriander, brandade (an emulsion of salt cod, olive oil and potatoes) and kale. Fourth course was Alentejo style pork (the neck), with red pepper paste, ‘bulhāo pato’ clam sauce, which is steamed clams with lemon, garlic, s & p, white wine, coriander.

Fifth course, and the introduction to dessert, was Orange and Almond - a beautifully fresh dessert of almond crumb, orange sorbet, fresh orange, a red onion tuile and a gel. Sixth course was ‘Brisa do Lis’ which comprised of garden peas, chamomile ice cream, cured egg yolk. And, if that wasn’t enough, we then were presented with a plate of petite fours and a pingado (what the Portuguese call a piccolo).

I am listing the wines separately as we tried such a variety, all recommended by our ‘wine angel’ Gonçalo. The wine list is predominantly local, the only exceptions were my champagne and dessert wine, both French.

Delamotte Champagne, Blanc De Blancs
D’Oliveira Terrantez Madeira 1988
Parcels Única, Green Wine 2020 - made by the godfather of Green wine
Primus 2021 DÃO D.O.C.
Quinta Do Ribeirinho, Serçialinho, Luis Pato, Vinson Branco 2021
Os Paulistas, Vinhas Velhas, DOC Alentejo, 2020
Nossa Calcario, Braga 2016, Bairrada DOC (without makeup)
Boa-Vista, Douro Reserva, Tinto, 2019
Mouchão, Alentejo DOC, Tinto, 2016
Château d’Yquem, 2016
Malvasia, Madeira 1945Meer informatie
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Amazing alma #2
25 oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
Here are some more photos from our fabulous afternoon.
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