Europe 2023

We are off to Europe to catch up with family, explore new cities and revisit some favourites. We will also be joining a walk and wine tour with Explore through Spain and Portugal. Czytaj więcej

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Europe 2023 Podróżnik
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Last Night in Albi
29 września 2023, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
On our return from Cordes-sur-Ciel we had a bit of a siesta before having our last dinner on the Terrace of our hotel.
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Podróżnik Wow! That’s art!
30.09.2023OdpowiedzTłumaczyć
PodróżnikAnd it was delicious
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Europe 2023 Podróżnik
Next stop Toulouse
30 września 2023, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
We had a very relaxed start today as we aren’t due to catch our train to Toulouse until midday. We met for breakfast around 8.30 am and Brigitte informed us that she had won a bottle of wine for tipping the closest to the NZ v Italy match. We had arranged with the hotel for a taxi to pick us up at 10.45am to take us to the station, but the taxi hadn’t arrived by 11am and so Brigitte checked with reception. They contacted the taxi company who said they didn’t have a booking (which was a lie), and the hotel told us this happens all the time. Luckily, Julian, the hotel duty manager, offered to take us.

We were waiting on the platform at Albi-Ville when a train to Toulouse arrived. We thought it would wait 20 minutes before departing but, as we were getting on, the departure buzzer started sounding. We boarded it anyway. Actually, we boarded it, jumped off, jumped back on and nearly got caught in the doors, not knowing if it was the correct train until a local confirmed it was indeed going to Toulouse. Turns out it was the earlier train but, as our ticket wasn’t assigned seats, we could catch this one. The conductor didn’t care, and I think had been amused by our little spectacle at the station.

The trip to Toulouse was smooth and quick. On arrival we decided to have lunch at a Brasserie at the station before jumping in a taxi to our Airbnb. We were waiting in the correct spot with an elderly couple, but noticed people waiting closer to where the taxis enter to try and jump the queue - bloody French they love to break the rules. The old couple just ahead of us in the queue told us this happens all the time but they hailed the cab as soon as it entered the area and it came up to them. When the next taxi arrived, the queue jumpers tried to hail it down but we made it clear the taxi was for us and the driver actually told them they were in the wrong spot. So, they moved up to join the official line, making out they hadn’t realised.

Our trip to the Airbnb was fairly short but there were a number of “near misses” with scooters, bikes and motorcycles - you have to be really careful as no-one seems to follow the road rules, especially the scooters and bikes. They go the wrong way up narrow crowded streets and expect everyone to get out of their way. The taxi driver said it had been much worse after COVID.

We finally made it to our apartment and we were met by Nathalie, our host, who explained how things worked and gave us some tips about the area. We are situated right opposite the river Garonne and very centrally located, which is ideal when you want to walk everywhere. We went out to grab supplies from the local supermarket and have a bit of a look around. Tonight we have our wine bar tour with Jessica. Czytaj więcej
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Europe 2023 Podróżnik
Wine Bar Tour
30 września 2023, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
We headed off from our digs around 30 minutes before we were due to meet up for the wine bar tour so that we could take in the sights on the way. It was very warm and there were people everywhere. Toulouse is a lovely city with interesting architecture.

Toulouse is the fourth-largest city in France and is often referred to as the “Pink City”. It derives its name from the pink terracotta bricks used in the construction of many of its most prominent buildings. Stone is rare around this area, whereas clay with a high concentration of iron oxide, which gives it a pink colour during firing, is plentiful.

We met Jessica and the rest of our group at the allotted time. There were six of us taking the tour, Amy and Betsy from the US and Celia from Ireland. Jessica our tour guide is originally from the US but moved to Toulouse in 2017 and now calls it home.

We headed off and our first stop was L’Alimentation, Le Bar a Vin, where we tried Crémant from Limoux. Crémant is a type of sparkling wine, like champagne but cheaper. It was a lovely sparkling wine (even for this champagne snob!). Crémant de Limoux is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Chenin Blanc.

Our next stop was Maison Sarment. Our sommelier, Nico, had spent some time in Melbourne and worked at Milk The Cow Licensed Fromagerie in St Kilda. Nico gave us two very nice wines to taste; Secret de Pierre 2022, dry white (IGP Côtes Catalanes, 100% Muscat d’Alexandrie) was the first. The second was Château Adélaide - Cuvée Tradition 2016 rouge (AOC Gaillac red wine; 80% Duras, 20% Braucol). We also had a delicious charcuterie board to accompany the wine to ensure we didn’t get too drunk too early!

Our last stop was Le 5 Wine Bar, voted World Best Wine Bar for 3 years in a row, from 2017 to 2019. They have forty wines on tap with helpful tasting notes. You get a card that you swipe to select your wine and you can have a splash, a half serve or a full glass. You pay for what you drink. It was a really fun place with a nice vibe and friendly and helpful staff. As part of the tour you get a couple of half glasses of your choice.

The tour concluded at 8.30 pm and Jessica left us, as did Amy and Betsy (they had a dinner reservation). Celia stayed on with us and we got our own swipe card so that we could try some more wines. We also had a couple of share plates ,which were delicious, and finished with a fig dessert.

Side note - during the evening I was speaking to Amy and Betsy and we got onto our heritages. It turns out they have some Hungarian ancestry and all they know about it is the name which is Szecsodi - which is the same surname as my uncle - so I will need to check with him about any of his family who may have migrated to the US.

It was a really fun tour, Jessica is passionate about local wines and we had a fun group. It is a nice way to get a first look at the city. Czytaj więcej
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Les Halles Victor Hugo
1 października 2023, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
Before heading to the meeting point to catch the bus to Carcassonne, we decided to visit one of Toulouse’s markets. The Marché Victor Hugo is one of three covered markets in Toulouse and is the largest. We spent an hour here wandering up and down the aisles, checking out all the wonderful fresh produce.

We then selected some pastries for breakfast and ordered an espresso with a little milk (here in Toulouse they call it a Noisette or Cortado). It was lovely breakfast before our bus trip. Czytaj więcej
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Captivating Carcassonne
1 października 2023, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
We met the bus that was transporting us to Carcassonne at the allotted time. There was a big line of people boarding so we joined the queue. We set off just after 9.30am and we were advised it would take approximately 1 hour 15 minutes to arrive at our destination.

Carcassonne is a hilltop town in southern France’s Languedoc region and it is famous for its medieval citadel, La Cité. The citadel has numerous watchtowers and double-walled fortifications. The first walls were built in Gallo-Roman times, with major additions made in the 13th and 14th centuries. Château Comtal, a 12th century castle, sits within the Cité and we explored it and the ramparts.

Carcassonne was the first fortress to use hoardings in times of siege. Temporary wooden platforms and walls would be fitted to the upper walls of the fortress through square holes in the face of the wall. This provided protection to defenders on the wall and allowed them to go out past the wall to drop projectiles on attackers at the wall beneath, acting as a permanent machicolation. This is a floor opening between the supporting corbels of a battlement, through which stones, boiling water, hot sand or boiling cooking oil could be dropped on attackers.

The Cité de Carcassonne was restored by the theorist and architect Eugène Violet-Le-Duc in 1853. It was added to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites in 1997 because of the exceptional preservation and restoration of the medieval citadel.

We explored the chateau, which had many artefacts on display. We also walked around about two-thirds of the ramparts. We took in wonderful views of the surrounding countryside including vineyards and olive trees. We could also see much of the Cité of Carcassonne from various vantage points on the ramparts. We got great views of the Basilique Saint-Nazareth, the Théâtre Jean Deschamps and the Port Narbonnaise, which is the city entrance. We climbed and descended more than 750 stairs as we explored this wonderful medieval city. Czytaj więcej
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PodróżnikIncredibly well-preserved. Stunning location and the weather looks perfect.
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Lunch and beyond in Carcassonne
1 października 2023, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Following our morning of exploring and climbing and descending stairs in the Château and ramparts we were in need of sustenance. We went in search of a suitable restaurant for lunch and found one, Le Jardin du Carcasses. We had a wonderful three course fixed price lunch on the terrace. It was a really excellent meal, and very reasonably priced. We started with a tomato salad with ham. Ian and Brigitte had steak for main and I had grilled octopus, and we finished with ice-cream, chocolate mousse and crème brûlée. We then spent a bit more time meandering around the narrow streets.

We still had a bit of time before the bus would pick us up, so we sat in the shade to just relax for a while. We then went to a café to have a drink before heading back to the meeting point to catch the return bus to Toulouse. Czytaj więcej
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Exploring Toulouse
2 października 2023, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
We headed out this morning to see a bit more of Toulouse. Unfortunately, being a Monday, some monuments, museums, art galleries and churches were closed. Firstly, we found a lovely café to have some breakfast and, they made great coffee, which was a real bonus. We then headed down to the nearby Place De La Daurade, located next to the Garonne river and then wandered through the streets towards Place du Capitole.

Place du Capitole is a very large public square, with the Capitole building - the Toulouse city hall - located on one side. It was a fairly windy day and it was very gusty in the square, so much so that a couple of large umbrellas were blown over as we were walking past.

The Capitole building has gone through many changes through the centuries, with construction first beginning in 1190. It was a centre of contention during the 1562 Toulouse Riots with Huguenot forces holding it. The current facade, 135 m long and built of the characteristic pink Toulouse brick in Neoclassical style, dates from 1750 and was built according to the plans of Guillaume Cammas. Eugène Violet-le-Duc, who restored Château Comtal in Carcassonne, built a bell tower on top of the donjon (keep) of the building.

In the first half of the 19th century, the structures surrounding the vast Place du Capitole were redesigned but the current facade was not touched. Within the Toulouse City Hall there is a free exhibition of wonderful art which, luckily for us, was open.

As you head upstairs there are elaborate paintings and the staircase is made of marble. The first hall you enter is Gervais Hall, a former wedding hall. The Henri-Martin Room is the second room you enter. It is an historic room that regained its former splendour in the 20th Century thanks to the Toulouse painter Henri Martin (1860 - 1943). This room, built in 1605, is one of the oldest parts of the present Capitole. Until the Revolution it housed a gallery of portraits of the Capitouls (governing magistrates). The painter Henri Martin, who had made a name for himself in the Parisian salons was appointed in 1900 to decorate this newly restored room. His impressionist paintings were my favourite.

There is another large room, the Hall of Illustrious, which has amazing paintings on the ceiling. The paintings are very dramatic and over the top but still beautifully done. Czytaj więcej
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PodróżnikI adore the fact that there is a Hall of Illustrious. What a brilliant and descriptive name.
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Podróżnik Magnificent.
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Podróżnik So beautiful and evocative.
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Podróżnik Back in the day, they really knew how to do a good ceiling.
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More of Toulouse including a fab lunch
2 października 2023, Francja ⋅ 🌬 25 °C
We continued to explore the lovely streets of Toulouse, admiring the wonderful architecture. Next stop was the Basilica of St. Sernin. Apart from the church, none of the abbey buildings remain. The current church is located on the site of a previous basilica of the 4th century which contained the body of Saint Saturnin or Sernin, the first bishop of Toulouse in c 250.

Constructed in the Romanesque style between about 1080 and 1120, Saint-Sernin is the largest remaining Romanesque building in Europe. The church is particularly noted for the quality and quantity of its Romanesque sculpture. In 1998 the Basilica was added to the UNESCO World Heritage Sites under the description: World Heritage Sites of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France.

We then headed off in search of a nice restaurant for lunch and we found one. Ian had spotted this place earlier and it looked good. It was called Gueuleton, Le Repaire des Bons Vivants. The name appealed. Great staff (the manager had lived in South Melbourne for 3 years pre-COVID) and great service, with quality wine and delicious food. We ordered a local variety we haven’t had before, an AOP Fronton, which is 100% négrette. We all thought it was excellent, a good lunchtime wine. Ian had wanted to try this wine, but most restaurants sold mainly Gaillac wines or wines from other regions of France. Our waiter explained that this was because many of the producers had moved into cheap bulk wine, and this has tarnished its reputation.

Brigitte and I had ceviche for entree and Ian had pork on a bed of hummus, and for mains Brigitte and I had steak and Ian had grilled pork loin. This was the first steak I have had this holiday and it was absolutely delicious. We also had fries and salad with the main. We could not consider dessert, but we did have a cortado with a bit of cream, which is very naughty but nice. The waiter was a bit cheeky and, because they didn’t have milk - which the French don’t have in their coffee - he loaded it up with clotted cream.

We then headed off to explore the old part of Toulouse, which is located just behind our apartment. This was our Airbnb host’s favourite area and it didn’t disappoint. Next instalment to follow. Czytaj więcej
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Last afternoon and evening in Toulouse
2 października 2023, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
After our sumptuous lunch we decided we needed to increase our steps. Nathalie, our Airbnb host, had suggested the area immediately behind our apartment to explore, telling us it was her favourite part of the city. As it turns out we, had been into the area (Les Carmes) as part of the wine bar tour, but everything looks different at night after a few wines!

We walked along the main street immediately behind our apartment, passing Notre-Dame de La Daurade, a basilica that was established in 410, when Emperor Honorius allowed the conversion of pagan temples to Christianity. The original building of Notre-Dame de La Daurade was a temple dedicated to Apollo.

As we meandered through the Les Carmes district we passed some lovely stores, restaurants and wine bars, but most were shut. There were a lot of hairdressers in this area - I spotted at least 5 or 6 within a couple of streets.

We saw Notre-Dame de La Dalbade, which has a very impressive Tympanum. A Tympanum is the area between the lintel over a doorway and the arch above. We also passed Hôtel d’Ulmo, a Renaissance Hôtel of the 16th century. It has been a listed historical monument since 1925. Another impressive building we passed was Hôtel de Pierre, a very fancy private home. It was impossible to tell if it is still a private home and if it was still inhabited.

At the end of the street we were in the Salin district. We then did a sharp left and walked back through the Les Carmes district, some of which we had seen the previous Saturday on our wine bar tour. We then headed back to the Main Street that runs across the Pont Neuf bridge, Rue de Metz. I had a hankering for an ice-cream, and we found a great place close by, Madame Bovary, Salon de Thé.

For our last dinner in Toulouse we went to the Brasserie Les Beaux-Arts, located very close to the Pont Neuf and our apartment. As we had had a very generous lunch, we decided to just have an entree and a dessert, with a bottle of Gaillac wine. It was delicious. Czytaj więcej
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Hola Spain - first stop Madrid
3 października 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
The flight from Toulouse went smoothly and arrived on time. It was too early to check into our Airbnb, so we hung around the airport catching up on some reading and had an early lunch. We then caught a taxi to our apartment after texting the host to ask if we could get in early, which we could. It was a lovely and comfortable apartment in a nice area of Madrid called Embajadores. Many of the main attractions are within walking distance.

After unpacking we headed out to explore the area. We wandered through the Puerta del Sol square and then found our way to Plaza Mayor, which is a beautiful large square which, unfortunately, is partly obstructed by a large temporary building in the middle of the square due to a stamp trading fair having taken place and of course the requisite scaffolding as one of the buildings is cleaned/repaired. This did not take away from the vibe, with lots of people eating and drinking and, in some restaurants, bursting into song/chants. We’re not sure why. I will include a short video which captures one of these.

Our next stop was Mercado De San Miguel - a beautiful covered market - that was also covered in scaffolding due to refurbishment works. This didn’t stop people from hanging out eating and drinking. The stalls are beautifully presented and so vibrant. The market was so crowded we basically walked in and back out.

We then headed down towards the Royal Palace of Madrid, passing the Plaza de la Villa - it is a public square that borders the Calle Mayor and houses some of the oldest buildings around the city. We passed the Museum of the Almudena Cathedral, as well as the Cathedral itself that sits opposite the Royal Palace. We had intended to visit the Palace but the line for tickets was huge. Ian suggested we instead visit the recently opened Galeria de las Colecciones Reales (The Royal Collections Gallery). The visit requires a separate entry as it was an amazing building in itself with a wonderful collection. Czytaj więcej
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Galería de las Colecciones Reales
3 października 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
We firstly tried to buy tickets online but this was very difficult as the English website is still under construction. We had a go and I am now a member of the Patrimonio Nacional Espanol, but still no tickets. So, we did the old fashioned thing and walked into the Gallery and purchased tickets at the counter! Bueno.

The Royal Collections Gallery takes you on a journey through five centuries of art and culture in an absolutely remarkable building. It was designed by Tunón and Mansilla and has received ten architecture awards. The design is simple and understated but on a huge scale. The Gallery is built into the side of a hill and you begin on level 0 and head downwards along huge ramps to the different galleries.

There are three levels to visit. Level -1 is dedicated to the Hapsburgs. It starts with the last of the Trastámara dynasty, showing how the Catholic Monarchs began the custom of royal collecting. One of the most memorable Hapsburg reigns was that of Philip II, a great patron of the arts who launched many ambitious projects, including the iconic site of El Escorial. Included on this level are the remnants of the ninth-century city wall.

Level -2 is dedicated to the Bourbons and explores themes such as music, royal factories and workshops. It also shows the construction of the royal palaces of Madrid and La Granja. There is also an explanation of Patrimonio Nacional’s role as custodian of this vast cultural legacy.

Level -3 is designed as a more interactive and dynamic exhibition space. The Cube is a room that immerses you in an audio and visual experience taking you through several architectural and natural spaces managed by Patrimonio Nacional. Finally, there is a temporary exhibition gallery that currently is exhibiting royal carriages and a couple of Mercedes Benz cars made especially for the Royal family. Czytaj więcej
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Podróżnik How brilliant is the way the artist captures light and shadow. Incredible
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Podróżnik Extraordinary.
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Galería de las Colecciones Reales (2)
3 października 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
A bit of the history of the shift from the Hapsburg dynasty to the Bourbons. Much to the surprise of those who expected him to name an heir from his own dynasty, Charles II stipulated in his will that the Spanish crown would pass to a Bourbon. The monarchy passed to Philip, born in 1683, the grandson of Louis XIV of France. He was king for 45 years as Philip V, the longest reign in the history of the Spanish monarchy.

That decision triggered a lengthy war of succession (1701-1714) in which Philip, allied with the French, fought the forces of the other pretender to the throne, Archduke Charles of Austria, who had the support of England and the Netherlands. The international consequences of this conflict was that Spain lost its territorial hegemony in Europe.

It was interesting to see a number of cartoons and other artistic works by artists such as Goya translated into tapestries by the Santa Barbara Royal Tapestry Factory in Weavers.

There was so much wonderful art on display I had to do a second page and also show the succession to the Spanish Throne. Czytaj więcej
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Podróżnik Masterful painting. All of those folds in the clothing!
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Morning in Madrid
4 października 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Today we had a very important job to do, we needed to get to the Australian Embassy and vote YES in the Voice Referendum. We had to take the metro out to the embassy, located in the suburb of La Paz. Ian worked out the route, which required one change, but was easy enough to achieve. We are very impressed with the Metro system in Madrid. It is clean and cool and, if you miss a train, another one arrives within 3 minutes. We arrived at the embassy which is located on level 24 of a tall tower. We had to go through security screening twice, once in the lobby and then again in the embassy. We also had to hand over all electronics, including my Apple Watch and our chargers, before we could go in and vote.

Once we got through all of that, the process was pretty straightforward. We filled in a form which we then signed in front of an embassy staff member, she then gave us the voting paper. When we returned it she had to confirm our electorate and place the ballot into an envelope while we watched.

There were a number of other Aussies there, all doing the right thing and voting, which was pleasing to see. We met a lady who has been living in Spain for 5 years and another couple who have been in Spain for 6 months, with the intention of making the move more permanent as they have retired.

When we left the embassy a number of planes in formation did a flyby right over us. Some seemed to get very close to some of the tall towers in the area. We have no idea what it was in aid of.

We then caught the metro back into the centre of town. We found a nice café close to the Prada Museum to stop at for a coffee and snack, we decided we would walk to our lunch engagement and just stroll through different areas and check out the sites. We passed lovely neighbourhoods and several churches and government buildings, as well as some other interesting statues, art and fountains. It is a lovely way to discover what you may well otherwise miss.

We arrived at the restaurant Sala De Despiece a few minutes early, so we checked out the surrounding area till the allotted time. Czytaj więcej
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Podróżnik It sure does look lovely!
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PodróżnikAh brings back memories from April. Photo 14 is where we stayed.
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Lunch Date at Sala De Despiece
4 października 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
We had seen this restaurant on Somebody Feed Phil and decided it looked pretty good, so made a reservation several months ago. We were really looking forward to this experience and were not disappointed. From the moment you walk through the door you are greeted by happy smiling faces. The restaurant is quite small, it probably only seats between 22 and 26 patrons.

We sat up at the bar and were looked after by Raphael and Dominica. Raphael took us through the menu and, once he got a feel for what we liked, suggested dishes. Most of the dishes were quite small, but so much thought and work goes into every one. Most are like works of art, and many are prepared right in front of you with a blow torch and tweezers.

Dominica has been working at the restaurant for a number of years and she made some wonderful suggestions regarding the wine we should have to accompany the food.

We started off the meal with some tasty fried bits of dough that were bloody delicious. Next was a fried artichoke with avocado cream and caviar. It was one of my favourite dishes, just absolutely delicious. Next was the ‘Rolex’ which is a strip of Parma ham with a piece of foie gras in the middle and topped with a semi set egg yolk. The ham is cooked with a blow torch and then cut in half, rolled up and torched some more. The end result is a mouthful of deliciousness. This was followed by beef carpaccio which, again, is deftly prepared in front of you with such artistry and flare. The meat is smeared with tomato and eggplant, then rolled up into a wonderfully tasty morsel.

We then had the tomato and tuna - yum. This was followed by zucchini flowers dipped in this artistic smear of deliciousness that was cream, roasted tomato and beetroot. It was pleasing to the eye and the palate. We then had grilled octopus, which was the largest dish, served with romesco and squid ink sauce. As Ian isn’t a big fan of octopus, he had deep fried crystal prawns. They serve the prawns with their shell and include their fried heads. I love prawn heads that have been deep fried, but Ian hadn’t tried them. I am proud to say that he tried the heads and I believe he quite liked them.

We are getting close to the finish line with two savoury dishes remaining. The first was smoked eel first cooked with a blow torch, then topped with foie gras that has been torched and finally crowned with some grated apple. It is all covered in a divine sauce. This dish was very rich but so so good. Our final dish was beef tacos. The tray arrived with an egg yolk and various strips of chilli peppers in the shape of the sun. In a bowl was a white ball, which looked like ice cream but we are told is wagyu beef covered in a layer of fat. Raphael began torching the white sphere which slowly melted, revealing a ball of chopped wagyu beef strips that were slowly cooked. As the meat cooks and the fat melts Raphael gets out the soft tacos which are in themselves a work of art and very colourful. He divides the yolk into four and smears a bit on each taco, then has a discussion with us regarding how much chilli heat we can take. We decided to stick with medium and so our tacos were assembled. They too are delicious. Finally we had a dessert to share which was a custard type thing with berries, and was a nice way to finish what had been an exceptional meal.

In relation to what we drank, I started with a rosé from Provence and Ian had a Spanish beer. We then had a glass of white wine, Lapola Ribeira Sacra, a beautifully balanced but dry white that was a blend of Albariño and Godello. We then had a cider made from 20 types of apples. It was called Valverán, 20 Manzanas and was the perfect accompaniment to the eel. Lastly we had a glass of red, San Cobate La Finca, from Ribera Del Duero, which was the perfect pairing with the wagyu. Czytaj więcej
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Sala De Despiece Part 2
4 października 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Our lunch at Sala De Despiece was quite the show and so I need a second page to show the rest of the delicious dishes we had and the work that went into creating them. I have also included a video of the meat and sauce being prepared for our wagyu beef tacos, as well as the wine we drank during the lunch. Czytaj więcej
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Hola Toledo
5 października 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌙 15 °C
We were ready and out the door by 8.15 am to make our way to Atocha station to catch our fast train to Toledo. We had plenty of time up our sleeve and had been walking for about 2 kilometres when Ian realised that we were going in the wrong direction! Turns out, he mistakenly put in another address. So now we didn’t have so much time to spare as we had to retrace our steps and then head in the right direction. It was a bit stressful for both of us. We finally made it to Atocha station, got through security and found our platform with about ten minutes to spare. It was then that we realised our seats were at different ends of the carriage; no big deal as the trip was only about 35 minutes.

We arrived at Toledo station at the designated time. Toledo has a wonderful station that has been beautifully restored. We headed off towards the old city but stopped at a local bar for a coffee and a piece of delicious lemon cake. Feeling much better after being fed and watered, we headed off for the old town across the Puente de Alcántara which spans the river Tajo and up into the old city.

We decided to head to the Alcazar first, and passed a few interesting museums that we decide to visit on our return in the afternoon. On entering the army museum, which is located within the same building as the Alcazar, were advised that, as part of the site was closed for renovation, entry was free.

We went through the army museum’s permanent display and also had a look at the archeological site which is located between the old and new buildings. At the archeological site you can view the origins of this defensive spot upheld ever since the Bronze Age, thereby keeping remains from the Roman, Visigoth, Arabs and Christian eras. It is one of the largest indoor archaeological sites in Spain.

We then headed up to explore the Alcazar and Gardens. The Alcazar is a huge beautiful building that is well preserved, and we got to visit the Charles V courtyard and take in panoramic views across Toledo. We also wandered through the Alcazar gardens that had some beautiful sculptures.

Afterwards, went in search of the Toledo Cathedral. We found an entrance but it was the ‘poor man’s’ entrance as you only got to view things from behind a gate. The with the assistance of Apple Maps we made our way around to the front entrance passing through a maze of narrow streets. We purchased tickets and made our way inside. It is indeed quite magnificent and grand.

We wandered around taking in the grandeur and sheer scale of things. We went out to the cloisters and found some interesting large figures that are used for a range of fetes - the Spanish don’t half love a fete. The paintings in the cloisters were well maintained and extremely good - I have been impressed by the art contained in these large churches and cathedrals in France and Spain.

We then made our way into the Jewish quarter in search of the Synagogue Santa Maria La Blanca. This church was converted from a 12th Century, Moorish style synagogue with a hall of horseshoe-shaped arches to a Catholic Church. It is considered to be the oldest synagogue building in Europe that is still standing.

By this time we were ready for some refreshments in the form of lunch. We found a nice little restaurant as we started to retrace our steps. The staff were lovely and the food was delicious. I drank rosé and Ian had a beer. We ordered tomato salad with tuna and white onion, some croquettes and fried calamari and baby octopus. Everything was fresh and tasty, the tomatoes were like the ones my uncle used to grow, so packed with flavour.

After lunch we treated ourselves to a delicious sorbet as we made our way back to the centre of town. Toledo is a beautiful place and I think we only saw a snapshot on our day here. As we started our descent back to the station we stopped at Hospital de Santa Cruz that has been converted into a museum. We again had free entry, as part of the museum was closed for renovation. We wandered around the areas open to public and also had a little rest in the cloisters as the day was heating up.

We slowly continued our descent back to the train station for our return to Madrid. We stopped at the same bar, Qãntara, where we had had a coffee in the morning and had a cool drink. The train trip back to Madrid was smooth and quick. We then walked back to our Airbnb, with no navigation issues. It was a big day with us walking more than 23,000 steps. Czytaj więcej
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Hola Toledo Part 2
5 października 2023, Hiszpania
Toledo lends itself to photos as it is very picturesque. Here are some more photos of our day.
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El Escorial
6 października 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
Today we took a half day - 5 hour - tour to El Escorial. The Monastery of El Escorial is the monument which is said to best represent the ideological aspirations of the Spanish Golden Age. During this era, the Spanish Crown, which had established itself as the main defender of the Catholic Counter-Reformation while other countries had embraced the Protestant Reform movement, became the leading world power on account of its dynastic alliances and territorial power in Europe.

Philip II became King of Spain and of the Indies in 1556. Having decided to build the Monastery, he began his search for the ideal site in 1558 and finally located it in 1562. Work began on the project by Juan Bautista de Toledo. By 1571 the Monastery area was almost complete and work commenced on the King’s apartments in 1572 and on the Basilica in 1574. The Basilica was consecrated in 1595, though the last stone was laid in 1584, and the task of decoration dragged on for several more years.

El Escorial is the result of a collaboration between two men - Juan Bautista de Toledo and Juan de Herrera. Juan Bautista de Toledo, who had worked under Michaelangelo in the Vatican, was entrusted with the general site plan and most of the design drawings. There were also a number of master builders and overseers who had important roles in its design and construction. The final result of El Escorial is regarded as a highly personal manifestation of Philip’s character.

The Royal Monastery of San Lorenzo El Escorial consists of a huge rectangle, or grid, that houses the building’s various functions:
1. The holy area comprising the Church and its atrium
2. The Monastery, laid out around one large and four small courtyards
3. The King’s Apartments
4. The outbuildings of the King’s Palace
5. The School, and
6. The Library

We were able to visit the Library, the Church, the King’s Apartments, The Courtyard, Gallery of the Lower Cloister, the Main Staircase, the Chapter Rooms and The Pantheon (Dead Royals). We also snuck a look at the King’s Gardens through a few windows.

There is a large collection of artwork spread out through the various rooms, too many to mention. Czytaj więcej
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The Valley of the Fallen
6 października 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
We left El Escorial and drove about 10km northeast, to the Valley of Cuelgamuros, formerly known as Valley of the Fallen. It is a monument in the Sierra de Guadarrama mountains near Madrid. The valley contains a Catholic basilica and a monumental memorial .

Dictator Francisco Franco ordered construction of the site after the civil war. It was built from 1940 to 1958 and opened in 1959. Franco said that the monument was intended as a “national act of atonement” and reconciliation.

The site served as Franco’s burial place from his death in November 1975 (although it was not originally intended that he be buried there) until his exhumation on 24 October 2019 following a long and controversial legal process. This was due to moves to remove all public veneration of his dictatorship.

The monument, considered a landmark of 20th-century Spanish architecture, was designed by Pedro Muguruza and Diego Méndez on a scale to equal, according to Franco, “the grandeur of the monuments of old, which defy time and memory”.

Together with the Universidad Laboral de Gijón, it is the most prominent example of the original Spanish Neo-Herrerian style, which was intended to form part of a revival of Juan de Herrera’s architecture, exemplified by the nearby royal residence El Escorial.

The monument precinct covers over 13.6 square kilometres of Mediterranean woodlands and granite boulders on the Sierra de Guadarrama hills, more than 900 metres above sea level and includes a basilica, a Benedictine abbey, a guest house, the Valley, and the Juanelos - four cylindrical monoliths dating from the 16th century.

The most prominent feature of the monument is the towering 150 metre-high Christian cross, the tallest such cross in the world, erected over a granite outcrop 150 metres over the Basilica esplanade and visible from 30 kilometres away.

Beneath the Valley floor lie the remains of 40,000 people, whose names are accounted for in the monument’s register. The valley contains remains of both Nationalists an Republicans. Republicans were interred here mostly without the consent or even the knowledge of their families; some estimates claim that there 33,800 victims of Francoism interred - and their families have legal problems in recovering the remains of their family member.

Franco was exhumed and removed from the church in 2019 in an effort to lower the public veneration of the place. He is now buried in the municipal cemetery that serves the Madrid neighbourhoods of Mingorrubio and El Pardo.

We toured the Basilica which is very big and quite austere, but no photos were allowed. Czytaj więcej
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More of Madrid
6 października 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C
We got back from our day trip and found a wonderful restaurant to have a late lunch (by our standards but completely normal for Spaniards). I wanted a side salad to have with my main and asked the waiter if this was possible, as salads in Spain are always huge. He said he would bring me a half green salad. What arrived was a large bowl full of lettuce, tomato, cucumber, avocado, asparagus, beans and onion and it was delicious, but I needed Ian to help me eat it.

We didn’t do much for the rest of the day as it was fairly warm and we just went out for a drink and a snack in the evening. Tomorrow we leave our Airbnb and move to a hotel to join our tour group. Czytaj więcej
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Saturday in Madrid
7 października 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
We were out of our Airbnb at 11 am and had about a 20 minute walk to our hotel, mainly downhill. It was another beautiful sunny day in Madrid. We thought we would only be able to drop off our bags but, to our surprise and delight, our room was ready. So we unpacked and settled into our new digs. We met our tour guide, Gabrielle, when we were checking in.

I wanted to visit the Mercardo de la Paz, which I had seen on ‘Somebody Feed Phil’ to try the tortilla made by Casa Dani. We headed off on foot, to see a bit more of Madrid and have lunch at the market. It was about a 3.5 kilometre walk on a sunny 30 degrees day. We passed some lovely buildings and parks and a huge book market on the Paseo del Prado on the way.

The walk was worth it as the market wasn’t full of tourists, it was full of locals doing their Saturday shop. We found Casa Dani and lined up to purchase our tortillas. I then lined up to get some Jamon Iberico and Ian found us a spot to eat. The tortilla did not disappoint. It was delicious and worth the walk. While eating our tortilla we started talking to a couple sitting next to us. They were from Iceland and spend the winter in Madrid to escape the Icelandic winter. Anna, works for a chocolate company from Colombia called moxē. The company is trying to assist farmers to transition from growing for cocaine production to chocolate and also becoming independent operators that aren’t tied to the cartels. She and her husband were very friendly and we bought some of their chocolate.

We decided to leave the market and head down to the Retiro Gardens with our Jamon and a fresh baguette to have our second course. The park was absolutely beautiful and full of people wanting to enjoy a warm sunny day outside. We found a bench in a nice shady spot to eat our delicious Jamon and baguette and just enjoy the atmosphere.

We wandered through the park, which is just glorious. It is full of statues and wonderful trees and shrubs and has an artificial lake in the centre of the park with an impressive Monument to Alfonso XII, which is situated on the east edge of the lake. In 1902, a national contest was held to design a monument for King Alfonso XII at the initiative of the Queen Mother Maria Christina of Austria.

We then made our way back to the hotel passing the Prado and several other lovely statues and buildings. We stopped at a cute little bar, Harlett, for a cocktail which was well deserved after our big walk.

At 7 pm we met up with our tour leader and the group. There are eleven of us in total. There are six Canadians, one American, one English, one Irish and the two of us. We are the youngest of the group and the oldest is 78. After a bit of information from Gabrielle our tour leader, we went out for a meal to get to know one another. I think it is a pretty good group and everyone will get along. The Canadians are a very friendly bunch and definitely like a drink. Czytaj więcej
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Group Orientation Walk - Madrid
8 października 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
This morning after breakfast we headed out to walk around Madrid with the tour group. First, we headed down towards the Cathedral and Royal Palace, passing La Latina and the Madrid Opera building. We also caught the tail end of a fun run with the final two runners shuffling past. We walked through a relatively new Urban Park (created during COVID to replace a road) where we had fabulous views back towards the Royal Palace and the surrounds. We passed an Egyptian temple that was brought over from Egypt and reconstructed brick by brick. It is called Temple of Debod, it usually has water running but it is currently turned off.

We then walked to Plaza de España where we saw the monument to Cervantes, Spanish’s most revered writer, best known for his work, Don Quixote. We then walked through Plaza Mayor which was full of people. As we walked through Madrid we came across a bagpipe band from Galicia (Northern Spain) marching up one street. We then made our way to the very crowded Mercado de Sam Miguel, where we had a few tapas (all very delicious) and a glass of wine.

Next we headed across to Puerto del Sol and down Calle de Alcala to near Paseo del Prado where the group went in several directions. Ian and I headed back across Madrid with Gabriele to find the Sunday markets, reputably one of the largest in Madrid. Most of the stalls we saw were selling clothes and accessories so Ian and I decided to go in search of a quiet spot for lunch.

We found a lovely restaurant, Citynizer, full of locals. We had some tapas to share and drank a few wines, before heading back to our hotel.

In the evening we had another group dinner, this time at a restaurant in the Latina area in which our hotel is located. Tomorrow we head out of Madrid and do a big walk. Czytaj więcej
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Podróżnik All looks scrummy and yummy
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PodróżnikA wish all orientations were like this! Reflecting on my orientation to new job…
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Walk in Guadarrama National Park
9 października 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
This morning we checked out of the hotel, boarded our bus and bid farewell to Madrid. We had about a 90 minute drive to Manzanares el Real, where we stopped for supplies for a picnic lunch. We were then dropped off at the starting point of our walk into the Guadarrama National Park. This park is very popular with people from Madrid as it has numerous walking and hiking trails and also rock faces to climb (if that’s your thing).

We had a lovely sunny day for our first walk. Gabriele asked for someone to be the back walker, which is someone who makes sure no-one is left behind. I volunteered for this and Ian said he would assist. So off we went, first encountering a couple of cute donkeys and then discovering that the bridge we should take to cross the river was washed out and being rebuilt. Gabriele had to make a slight adjustment to our course and then we were off.

This area is best known for the unusual granite rock formations of La Pedriza. There are large pine forests all around which gives quite the contrast to the large granite formations. We started our walk at 900 metres above sea level and would climb up to about 1,200 metres. As with any group there are those that want to rush ahead, those that walk at a steady pace and those that either dawdle or might struggle with the steep inclines (and there were a few steep inclines during the walk).

The area is also a breeding colony for Griffon Vultures and we did spot a number during our walk. It was fine when we walked in the shade, but there were a number of times we were walking up steep inclines and had the midday sun right on us. There were a couple of people in the group who struggled a bit, especially during the up hill sections, so Ian and I stayed with them and provided support and encouragement.

We were on our way down when we found a lovely shady spot by a waterfall to stop for lunch. There was also a large flat piece of granite that served as the perfect table to lay out our spread. We had Jamon Iberico, three types of cheese, chorizo, fresh baguettes, cherry tomatoes, lettuce, grapes, plums, mandarins, bananas and a range of cookies. It was a real feast and we slightly over catered!

After our delicious fresh picnic we continued our descent to the pick up point. It was a lovely walk that gave the group the chance to get to know everyone a little better. In total we walked just over 8 kilometres. Czytaj więcej
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La Granja de San Ildefonso
9 października 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
After we completed our walk we got back on the bus and started the drive towards Segovia. We stopped on the way for a well deserved beer or wine and also to visit the gardens of the Royal Palace of La Granja de San Ildefonso, known as La Granja (the Farm). It is an early 18th-century palace in the small town of San Ildefonso, located in the hills nearest to Segovia and about 80 kilometres north of Madrid. It became the summer residence of the Kings of Spain from the 1720s during the reign of King Felipe V.

As it was a Monday the Palace was closed but the gardens were open, and entry was free because they weren’t operating the fountains. The gardens are extensive and magnificent. We had about 45 minutes to wander around and enjoy them. Czytaj więcej
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Next Stop - SEGOVIA
9 października 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
We boarded the bus to make the 10km journey to Segovia which was to be our home for the next two nights. Segovia is an historic city northwest of Madrid, in central Spain’s Castile and León region. It’s centuries of settlement have resulted in a rich architectural legacy, including medieval walls, Romanesque churches, a former royal palace (Alcazar) and a Gothic cathedral. The city centre was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985.

It’s iconic ancient Roman aqueduct has more than 160 arches, most in the original mortarless granite, and stands above Plaza Azoguejo in the heart of the city. Dating from the late 1st or early 2nd century AD, it consists of about 25,000 granite blocks and spans 818 metres above ground, with the highest arch being 29 metres.

The end of the Middle Ages saw something of a golden age for Segovia, with a growing Jewish population and the creation of a foundation for a powerful cloth industry. Several works of Gothic architecture were also completed during this period. Notably, Isabella was proclaimed queen of Castile in the Church of San Miguel de Segovia in 1474.

Once we checked into our hotel and freshened up we headed out to wander around the old city, check out the aqueduct and have an early dinner (by Spanish standards). Czytaj więcej
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