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France 2022
  • Danielle and Co travels

France 2022

After two years of delays due to COVID we are finally getting ready to head off to France. We are combining some independent travelling with a walking tour through Southwest France. Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 14, 2022
    Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler

    Off the bench and back in the air!

    September 14, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Our adventure begins! We are currently in the Qantas First lounge (not too shabby) waiting to head to Perth where we will meet up with Bronwyn, who is currently flying from Brisbane. After a short stop in Perth we will make our way to London. We have been warned to expect delays and crowds in London due to the Queen’s passing. Luckily, we only have to transit from Heathrow to St. Pancras to catch our train to Paris.Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler

    Hello Paris - it has been a while

    September 15, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We arrived a little late into London, but with plenty of time to catch the tube to Kings Cross St. Pancras for our trip to Paris on the Eurostar. The trip on the Eurostar was quick and uneventful. We had planned to get the Metro to our hotel but decided to catch a taxi instead (the thought of having to lug our suitcases up stairs because a lift might not be working was too much to bear).

    We are staying at Le Petit Madeline Hotel in the 8th arrondissement - it is a cute, charming, quirky hotel with the smallest lift we have seen! The hotel is in a great location and the staff are very helpful and welcoming. Following a quick shower to freshen up we headed out to explore Paris - it has been a while but we were not disappointed.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler

    An afternoon in Paris

    September 15, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We left the hotel and explored the area on foot - definitely the best way to see Paris. We found our way to The Madeleine, a very big, impressive church, where we found a nice bar to have a bite to eat and people watch, a favourite Parisienne pass time.

    After a couple of false starts (thanks to google maps sending us in the wrong direction) we made our way to the Tuileries Garden, a large public park located between the Louvre and the Place de la Concorde in the 1st arrondissement. I discovered today it was created by Catherine de Medici in 1564, initially as the garden of the Tuileries Palace in 1564 and, post the French Revolution, it became a public park which is well utilised and loved by the Parisians and tourists alike.

    We wandered through these beautiful gardens making our way to the Seine and Musee D’Orsay.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler
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    Musee d’Orsay - Thurday night

    September 15, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    After wandering around Tuileries Garden we headed over to Musee d’Orsay - Bronwyn had noticed that they had a special reduced entry for Thursday evening so we decided to take advantage along with hundreds of other tourists and locals. Musee d’Orsay used to be a train station which has been transformed into a wonderful museum - one of my favourites. There have been extensive renovations since we last visited in 2009, including a greatly expanded Impressionist and Post-Impressionist exhibition on the 5th floor, and a wonderful and very funky restaurant. Many paintings we had not seen before.

    There were a couple of pieces, which are a temporary exhibition - a painting and brass statues by the African American artist, Kehinde Wiley from LA. These pieces were so powerful and evoked strong emotions as they had a theme of the oppression of African Americans. As a side note, Kehinde was the first African American Artist to be commissioned to paint a portrait of an American president. He painted a portrait of Barack Obama for the Smithsonian in 2018.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler
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    A impressionist smorgasbord!

    September 15, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Van Gogh, Gaugin, Monet, Manet, Pissarro, Renoir, Degas, Henri Toulouse-Lautrec, Sisley and Cezanne and there may be others I can’t remember. It was a fabulous collection to see in one place and there were a number we had never seen before which was an added bonus.Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler
    1

    Pere La Chaise Cemetery

    September 16, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    I know some people may find wandering around a cemetery boring or uncomfortable - not us! We have been trying to visit Pere La Chaise since 2009, when we had the opportunity to stay in Paris for three weeks. Unfortunately, Paris experienced it’s coldest winter in 26 years so, despite several attempts, due to the ice and snow it was closed on each occasion for safety reasons.

    Well, 13 years later we have made it. We spent several hours wandering around, searching out some famous peoples’ final resting place and enjoying the general ambiance and grandeur of this place. We absolutely loved it.

    We did successfully locate the tombs of Jim Morrison, Edith Piaf, Frederic Chopin, Oscar Wilde, and Marcel Proust. There were many others that we just couldn’t find but enjoyed strolling through this amazing place, searching and finding other treasures.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler

    Street art of Paris

    September 16, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    As we have wandered around this beautiful city I have snapped a number of artworks that have appealed to me.

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler

    Place du Mange

    September 16, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    After leaving Pére La Chaise, we headed across the Seine to make our way to where we had booked lunch (more on lunch to follow in a separate entry).

    What I love about Paris is all the little markets that service the various suburbs within this glorious city. We wandered around one today in the Place Mange area, full of the locals shopping for supplies for today’s meals. They are so vibrant and colourful and have such wonderful aromas. A wish of mine is to spend 3 to 6 months in such a place within Paris and experience this type of living first hand.Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler
    1

    La Table de Colette

    September 16, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We had planned to have lunch at MUMI today - I had done some research on good Parisian restaurants and MUMI had ticked all the boxes, including consistently excellent reviews. However, a couple of days ago I received an email from them saying that they had to cancel our booking as they had had a fire in the kitchen and had to close for several weeks - bummer!

    Luckily, I had kept my notes for a number of restaurants I had researched and La Table de Colette was second on my list and we were able to secure a table for lunch. And, what a lunch it was. The staff, the ambiance, the wine and the food were all top notch. The staff have a real pride in what they create and love to see the joy the customers experience when eating their food.

    There isn’t a menu - you just decide if you are having 3, 5 or 7 courses and if you want the matching wines. We went for 3 courses and Ian chose the wine. You start off with an amuse bouche, which was three wonderful morsels that were each divine - oyster leaf on a rice cracker with a scallion mayonnaise, a small piece of fish, again with a divine sauce, on a delicate cracker and finally roasted and dried beetroot with an horseradish cream.

    Ian selected the wine which was fabulous, a 2017 Grand Cru Gewurztraminer from Alsace by François SCHMITT which went perfectly with the meal.

    First course was a green tomato served with gazpacho and stuffed with deep fried pearl cous cous and other stuff - divine. Second course was zucchini served two ways with a deep fried oyster and an amazingly intense sauce - Ian had his first oyster which he appeared to enjoy. Third course was an ode to Chocolate, a cremaux, a crumb, a sauce, a crisp and more, so much more. The dessert was divine. In fact the whole meal was one I have to rate in my top five food experiences. We also had the best coffee we have had so far in Paris and it was served with delicious petite fours.

    After lunch I ventured to the open kitchen to congratulate the young team of talented chefs and got a tour of the kitchen - very memorable indeed.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler

    Wandering around Paris

    September 16, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    After our fabulous lunch we decided we needed to do a bit of walking - so we did. We went to the Pantheon, Luxembourg Gardens, Notre Dame and île Saint-Louis. We were also entertained by a brass band playing at a food fair by the Seine and had a group of Pompiers (French Fire Fighters) jog past - I was too busy admiring their athletic prowess to take a photo!

    It was sad and overwhelming to see the magnitude of the damage to Notre Dame, still very much under repair. To cheer us up, Ian suggested we go to Berthillon, located on île St Louis, for ice-cream. It worked.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler

    Sacre Couer

    September 16, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    This evening we headed off to the Moulin Rouge, but before the show we had time to make our way up to the Butte de Montmartre to take in the views of Paris at sunset. It was a fairly steep climb but was excellent practice for our upcoming trek. We discovered that the new spot to place locks with your names or initials on is on a fence around a little park in front of Sacre-Coeur! There were thousands.

    After taking a few snaps, we made our way back down the hill to attend the 9pm show at the Moulin Rouge.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler

    Moulin Rouge - Yes we Can Can

    September 16, 2022 in France ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    We arrived at the Moulin Rouge for the 9pm show. It is a caberet style show and the place is packed with most people drinking champagne - as we had wine at lunch we decided to abstain as I thought the prices were high and the quality unknown.

    We were not allowed to take any photos of the actual show which was full of gorgeous, scantily clad women with lots of feathers, beads and sequins. The show is fabulous and the dancing and choreography was wonderful. There were also a number of acts that were amazing acrobats - demonstrating amazing strength, flexibility and show stopping moments. At one point, a perplex sided pool full of live pythons emerged from the stage, and one of the dancers dived in and writhed around with them, finally emerging with one wrapped around her. It has been forty years since I attended this caberet and they have definitely upped their game.

    After the show we treated ourselves to a crepe with sucre et citron, before catching the Metro back to the hotel.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler

    Saturday morning à Paris

    September 17, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    We had a lunch date today with Gerry Wilson and his wife Cilla to celebrate her birthday and also to just catch up. We weren’t due to meet them until 1.30 pm so we took the opportunity to wander around some favourite areas of Paris before lunch.

    First stop was the Bastille, then we walked towards Place des Vosges, stopping to buy pastries at Lenotre on the way. We did a quick walk around the beautiful Place des Voges and then got down to the serious business of eating our chocolate eclairs, which were divine.

    We then walked a little further towards central Paris to catch the metro to Trocadero - with the intention to walk to Les Ombres for our lunch date - passing St Paul’s cathedral and the very picturesque café La favourite, St Paul on the way. The areas around the Trocedero leading down to the Eiffel Tower are all under construction for the approaching 2024 Olympic Games which will be held in Paris.

    The weather has been very kind to us and today was a glorious sunny day.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler
    Venue for Cilla's birthday lunch
    Macrons and chocolate- what more could you wantRothchilds Rosé Champagne to start the celebration offAmuse boucheFoie gras entreePuff pastry brioche that came with the foie grasMackerel from BrittanyGrilled Sea Bass with beans, anchovies and harchardRoasted saddle of lamb, bolognese style aubergine, ricotta and mintDelicious wine with lunchHazelnut mousseRhubarb, coffee cascara, tart condimentPetite four1Post lunch group photo on the terrace

    Lunch and the best views in Paris

    September 17, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We arrived at Les Ombres, located at the top of Musée Quay Branly, following our meander through the Trocadero area and past the Eiffel Tower. We were seated at the best table, with wonderful views of Paris and the Eiffel Tower.

    First up was a glass of Rothchild’s rosé champagne, which was great, followed by a lovely white wine, a Pouilly-Fumé from the Loire Valley. It was the perfect accompaniment to our three course lunch.

    We started with an Amuse-bouche, followed by a choice of either Duck foie gras marbled with burnt fig leaves and a puff pastry brioche or marinated Mackerel from Brittany served with Romaine lettuce and black olives. The choices for main were Grilled sea bass with garden beans, anchovies and harchard or Roasted saddle of lamb, bolognese styled aubergines, ricotta and mint. For dessert there was a choice of Hazelnut mousse or Rhubarb creation. We also received petite fours with coffee.

    The meal was excellent from beginning to end, the staff were professional, engaging and provided a wonderful service, the company was also excellent and the venue, both the location and outlook, was superb.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler
    1
    On the terrace at Les OmbresGrand Palace - exhibition buildings1Lawn breakers! It is forbidden to walk on most of the grass around Paris!Pont Alexander IIIWinstonThe Petit PalaceGendarme were everywhere on SaturdayWe had a lovely dinner hereCheersSaluteSaluteMy first steak tartare in Paris and it did not disappointLinguini with beansSwordfishFrites - delicious

    The remainder of Saturday

    September 17, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Following our delicious long lunch it was unanimous that we needed to get in some walking to settle our stomachs. And, it was such a glorious day. Gerry and Cilla headed off towards the Eiffel Tower and we decided to walk back to the hotel - we probably meandered as opposed to walking, with pace and intent!

    We proceeded to walk along the Seine up to Pont Alexander III, where we crossed and passed between the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais. We then crossed the Champs Élysées, but were forced to take a detour as several roads were blocked by armed police. There was some official event on but we don’t know what - with the number of police, we think it may have been for world leaders coming across for Queen Elizabeth’s funeral.

    On returning to the hotel the manager advised us that it will be difficult to get a taxi or an Uber on Sunday as cars are banned from the city between 10am and 6pm. As a result we will now be catching the metro over to gare de l’Est to catch our train to Eperney.

    After a bit of a rest we went out for dinner to a local brassiere - Pepinière that was very nice.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler

    All aboard the Champagne Train

    September 18, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    We are left Paris this morning to catch the train to Epernay, where everything is about the bubbles.

    We met up with Gerry and Cilla for breakfast and, after bidding them farewell, did a quick pack. We had been advised that it was a car free day in Paris between 10am and 6pm, so decided to walk to Gare de L’Est to catch our train (much to the horror of the hotel manager). Ian had done the calculations and it was about a 3.2km walk which we all felt we could achieve, even with our suitcases. And, we did. We walked through the 8th, 9th and 10th arrondissments in about an hour seeing some lovely views of Paris. It was a delightful walk and fairly easy to complete.

    We boarded our train on time and I am so pleased I had booked 1st Class tickets, as it made the trip very comfortable and roomy. The trip to Epernay took about 90 minutes and our Airbnb was only a 10 minute walk from the station.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler
    Our bedroom
    EntryBronwyn's bedroomDining roomLounge roomView from our roomDining roomChampagne with lunchChicken BrochetteCeasar SaladClassic BurgerThe biggest dahlia's ever!

    Hello Epernay

    September 18, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    It was an smooth and uneventful train ride to Epernay. The biggest hurdle was getting our suitcases up and down the steps at the station (thanks Ian).

    It was a very short stroll to our Airbnb, where we left our bags and went to have lunch and started to explore the town. Our apartment is up 3 flights of stairs in an old building with high ceilings, so another big shout out to my wonderful husband for the heavy lifting (Ed - blokes are useful for some things!)

    The apartment is absolutely gorgeous - spacious with stylish decor. We had lunch at a little family run bistro - the Grill and Chill - located just around the corner from our apartment. Once lunch was over we headed out to explore the town and taste some champagne.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler
    The Town HallThe blackboard enticed us inDamien Ferat - winemakerEnjoying the bubblesDifferent sized bottlesSunset over Epernay

    We are in Champagne Heaven

    September 18, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    After lunch we first went to the tourist office to get some advice on how to best tackle the city. We ended up walking a kilometre up and back Champagne Avenue, chocked full of champagne houses - both big and small. It is a beautiful avenue full of beautiful buildings.

    There are a number of establishments where you can sit and have champagne tastings or a bottle. We decided to go for a tasting, which we thoroughly enjoyed. We even got to meet one of the local champagne producers, Damien Férat. We really enjoyed his champagne, but instead of telling him that I loved his champagne, I told him that I loved him! This gave everyone a bit of a laugh - I think I even blushed! (Ed - it was a Champagne moment!)

    Epernay is a stunning town that is beautifully kept with a wonderful range of grand houses and Chateaux. Can’t wait to explore more tomorrow.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler
    Founder Claude Moët1Thw closest I got to Dom PérignonBrian our sommelier

    We DO get our kicks from Champagne

    September 19, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Today we had a busy schedule. In the morning we toured the Moët Chandon Champagne House, which is the largest House in Epernay. It was established in 1743 by Claude Moët. The company was renamed Moët et Chandon in 1833 after Pierre-Gabriel Chandon de Brailles became Remy Moët’s son-in-law and joined the company as a partner of Jean-Remy Moët, Claude Moët’s grandson. They did not start producing champagne until 1840 and introduced their first vintage in 1842.

    Initially their champagnes were very sweet and were drunk for dessert, but they started to produce dryer ‘brut’ wines to appeal to English tastes. The Poms wanted to drink their champagne with their meal! It is one thing the French now thank them for. Their best selling brand , Brut Imperial, was introduced in the 1860’s. Their best known label, Dom Perignon, is named for the Benedictine monk, who is remembered in legend as the “Father of Champagne”.

    Moët & Chandon merged with Hennessy Cognac in 1971 and with Louis Vuitton in the late 1980’s to become LVMH (Louis-Vuitton-Moët-Hennessy), the largest luxury group in the world. Moët & Chandon produces 28 million bottles of plonk annually!

    There are cellars that we toured are 15 metres down, but there also cellars 30 metres below ground and they have kilometres of tunnels! The tour was very informative and fun and at the end the sommelier Brian explained the process of how the Imperial Brut is made, before we all said “chin chin” and drained our glass. We had a chat to a friendly group of Americans who were on a day trip from Paris while we were quaffing our champas.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler
    Winston Churchill's favourite!Another champagne I am to taste!

    Champagne by any other name!

    September 19, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Just in case you didn’t work it out we are immersed, literally, in Champagne. It really pops our cork.

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler
    Our transport for this arvo.Our tour guide MaëvaThis photo shows how chalky the terroir is which is great for champagneFound some edible grapesThe three amigos!Pressing roomOlder pressEnamel storage tanksThe cellars of Jean MilanEnjoying the sun & BubblesBonjour!

    Balades insolites en Champagne

    September 19, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    This translates to unusual walks in Champagne. We were collected by Maëva, an Epernay local, and driven in an interesting “classic” Renault Estafette Alouette van. The business, started four years ago, was born out of her love for champagne and her brothers love of Renault cars. We had a lovely group, a young couple from Texas who were passionate about all things wine and a couple from Paris (the guy was originally from Melbourne but had married a Parisienne).

    We drove out of Epernay into the lovely vineyard-covered countryside and made our way initially to one of the Moët and Chandon’s Chardonnay vineyards located in the Côte de Blancs region. Here, Maëve explained to us how the grapes were grown and harvested. Next it was back in the van and on to a small producer, Jean Milan in Oger. This was a Grand Cru (e.g. top quality) winery and the main grape used was Chardonnay, with a little Meunière and Pinot Noir used for their rosé.

    It was quite a different experience to Moët & Chandon and we probably enjoyed it more. We toured their pressing room and cellars and then we able to choose three of their eight offerings (both vintage and non-vintage) for tasting. Ian and I chose three different ones, so got to taste six. The champagnes were wonderful. We tried the following: Transparence, Brut Nature Selection 2018, Symphorine, Brut Selection 2018, Brut, Blanc de Blancs (non-vintage), Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs (non-vintage), Grand Réserve, 1864 Brut Selection 2017 Blanc de Blancs and Terres de Noël, Brut Old Vines Vintage 2017.

    It was an absolutely wonderful experience, and we had an enjoyable hour chatting to the others in the tour, our guide Maëve and her new team member, sitting in the sun while quaffing and slurping. The drive home was interesting, as the new team member was practicing driving the van, initially with some difficulty, so we got to learn a few French swear words.

    Tonight we are having a night in (with the obligatory bottle of bubbles) so we can be well rested for our eBike tour around the vineyards of Epernay.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler
    1We are staying on the top floorThis is our staircaseThe details are beautiful and well preservedL'Orangerie at Moët & Chandon

    More from beautiful Épernay

    September 19, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Épernay is a wonderful picturesque town with so much to see and take in. The flowers are still amazing and the parks are so well kept.The people are very welcoming and friendly and have tolerated my attempts to converse with them in French. I have got up early to get baguettes and pastries from our local boulangerie, and have successfully purchased some wonderful meats and cheeses from our local charcuterie. Our apartment is in a beautiful old building full of character.Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler
    Waiting to start our cycling adventureOur bikesHarry the office dogOur tour guide CoralieHouse of BollingerThe chalk is so important to the champagne productionBenoit the winemakerChanel the winery dogDown the Harch!The three amigosLunch at Le Clos CorbierEvidence of our cycling

    Champagning at the bit

    September 20, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    To ensure we arrived in Mareuil-sur-Ay for our e-Bike tour of the Champagne area in plenty of time we had booked an Uber, which gave us piece of mind. We had booked it for 8.30am and were downstairs by 8.20am. But, at 8.31am the booking was cancelled - not happy Jan! FYU!

    We headed to nearby Épernay station to try and secure a taxi - Ian called a local company to book a taxi and we were on our way about 15 minutes later (Ed - much to everybody’s surprise it arrived!). We arrived at our meeting spot 30 minutes early, so went for a bit of a wander around the area.

    We met the rest of the group at Le Clos Corbier - a bed and breakfast and tasting venue - where we had a coffee, met Harry the office dog and waited to have our briefing on how to operate the eBikes. We then headed off but had to quickly return to base as one of the bikes had 3 broken spokes.

    Finally, we were off and pedalling, making our way through the picturesque town of Mareuil-sur-Ay, passing a number of Champagne houses - Bollinger, Taitinger, Billecart-Salmon, Piper Heidsieck, Philipponnat, Roederer and Clos des Goisses.

    We then headed out of the village into the picturesque vineyards, making our way to the town of Hautvillers for a cellar tour with the fourth generation winemaker Benoit (spunk, Ed - Quel mec?) from the family run Champagne House of Fernand Lemaire. The village was located fairly high up in the hills, and was very picturesque. This was followed by a tasting of three of their fabulous champagnes, including a Brut (2017), a Rosé and a Brut vintage 2012. All of these champagnes were stellar.

    After our tasting, we visited the Abby of St Peter, where Dom Perignon, supposedly the creator of champagne, worked as the cellar master and is now buried. Good story, but not really true. He did develop elements of the wine making process and made important contributions to the production and quality of champagne wine when the region’s wines were predominantly red, and is considered the “spiritual father” of champagne. It’s just that the sparkling champagne we know today was not created until about 200 years after he died. The DP myth seems to have been largely created by Scotty from marketing.

    After a brief stop at a scenic lookout affording great views of the champagne region, we started our decent into the valley through beautiful vineyards heading back towards Le Clos Corbier, following a path along the Marne river. On arrival back we were treated to a delicious lunch with copious amounts of champagne and and the aptly named Bouzey Rouge, pinot noir.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsFrance 2022Traveler
    Statue de la Vierge du Gruguet
    House of Bollinger, Sweetie Darling!The fabulous BenoitView from the tasting room at Fernand LemaireAhhhh the glow of roséThe DOM and IThe group of bikers we travelled withThe canel we rode along - just beautifulOne of the many barges cruising the canalsLe Clos CorbierLe fromageCheers!Cheers after a hard day of tasting champagneSomeone has to keep the Champagne industry afloat!

    More higlights from the day and night

    September 20, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We saw so much today and had such fun with a great group of people, here are a few more photos.

    Tonight we had planned to eat some delicious food from the local charcuterie, however, after consuming a bottle of Vintage 2006 Moët & Chandon Rosé we decided we weren’t really hungry so we ate chocolate!Read more

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