Day 23 - Sunshine and butterflies

"In all things of nature there is something of the marvellous." - Aristotle

Day 23 - Cacabelos to Trabadelo 18 km, 3.5hrs

Today was one of those days that was sweetness and light - or, sunshine and butterflies. Figuratively and literally.

I had quite a rough night, not getting a lot of sleep. I was one of two people in a room for 4 last night. My roommate was gone all evening and did not come back until almost midnight. I was not yet asleep, but pretended to be. He was actually very considerate and quiet, but I just couldn’t settle. After tossing and turning all night, I got up and quietly out of the room before 7am. I couldn’t leave until 8am, as I had left my poles down in the bar yesterday and needed to see if the owners had found them. I was able to get some travel work done, which I am happy about. As 8am rolled around, I was downstairs and waiting for the owner to arrive. Thankfully, he did have my poles and I was out the door by 8:10 am.

I had not checked the profile of the terrain today. I find it freaks me out if I do, so I just go with the flow. As it turns out, the first 8km entailed a lot of hills - and we all know how I feel about those! But oh my, the sunrise today was beautiful! And the hills I climbed afforded stunning views over the vineyards of grapevines and the surrounding countryside. I actually felt the steps had been worth it!

I was able to do a What’s Ap video chat with mum, so she could see the lovely countryside and we could catch up. She is on a cruise but had decided to not go into town at this port, so it was a perfect opportunity.

I eventually came down into the beautiful town of Villafranca del Bierzo. This would have been a lovely place to spend the night, but I was on a mission to get to Casa Susi in Trabadelo, today. On the way into town, you pass the Igesia de Santiago this Toman Catholic church built in Jacobean times is famous for having the Puerta del Perdón or, door to forgiveness. It is a simple and sober Romanesque-style temple with a single nave, a semicircular apse, a wooden ceiling and a single chapel, dating from the 18th century.
The church’s north portal, is where its impressive Puerta del Pardón is located. This entrance and the Puerta del Perdón of the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela are linked by tradition: any walker who in Villafranca del Bierzo could not continue his pilgrimage to the city of Compostela due to illness, injury or force majeure, could find forgiveness for his sins here , that is, earn the jubilee. In order to be forgiven and be able to finish their journey in Villafranca, these sick pilgrims had to pray and confess on their knees on the steps of the church of Santiago Apósto so that the doors would be opened to them. An act that had the same recognition as if it had occurred in Compostela. This tradition is only valid in the holy years of Compostela. 2022 is just such a year. 2021 was the the official holy year (as the Feast of St James (25th of July) fell on a Sunday) but, due to the pandemic, the pope extended the holy year celebrations through 2022 as well. During every Holy Year, a special entrance called the ‘Holy Door’ is opened on the east side of the Cathedral in Santiago and since the 12th Century, pilgrims who visit the shrine on the Holy Year are granted a Plenary Indulgence.

On my way out of town, it was all road or should walking. But, it is along a river, so the sound of rushing water was never far away. I loved listening to the water and catching glimpse of the river in the valley below. There are many plants growing along the edges, and butterflies galore today. Mostly small brown and yellow ones, but also a blue one every now and then. The sun was shining but this walk was fairly shaded, making for a lovely 10km, despite being beside the road.

Passing through a village with no services, I was able to knock down and try a fig, fresh from the tree. So sweet and wonderful! Funny how you appreciate such small things sometimes.

Before Trabadelo, there was a rest area with concrete picnic tables. I stopped here for a bit to have my lunch of yummy gazpacho soup, some almonds and more water to stay hydrated. It was very hot by this point and last thing I’d need would be to pass out. So, I had a bit of a rest and continues the last couple of km to my destination.

I am at Casa Susi, and so glad I will be here 2 nights. I have the “penthouse suite” which is a tiny open room above the dorm. A bit more private even though it is open and I will have every single pilgrim pass my bed on their way out the door hahaha! I am absolutely loving this Albergue so far, and think it will likely be my favourite of the trip! After soaking my sore feet in the freezing river behind the house, I laid under the arbour in a hammock for over an hour. Perfect way to spend my afternoon after walking 18km! This is the one Albergue that I arranged my itinerary around. Susi is English / Australian and her husband Fermin is Spanish. They have a fabulous Albergue with foods all prepared from their gardens. Tonight’s dinner was in true pilgrim community style. We all introduced ourselves and where we come from, as well as why we are on Camino. It’s such a lovely and warm way to start the meal and is only the second one I have encountered like it. Susi had cooked up a feast of potato leek soup to start, followed by vegetarian paella and a homemade meringue and lemon curd for dessert. One of the best meals of my Camino!

Looking forward to helping in the gardens tomorrow!Read more