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The Craze for Travelling
The Craze for Travelling

The Craze for Travelling

Travelling is a passion, and I've been on it since my childhood (courtesy my dad). My passion has led me all around the globe from high altitude deserts, to rain forests, to back waters, to snow covered peaks. You name it!! Les mer🇸🇪Stockholm
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  • The Craze for TravellingThe South American OdysseyThe Craze for Travelling
    Laguna Los Sapos

    Laguna Los Sapos

    14. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The trail continued for about 2.5 kms through varying types of trees and vegetation. The was a slight gain in altitude all the while. A total of about 300 mts. We reached the Laguna Los Sapos at around 3 pm. It was a small pond in a clearing. Nothing very impressive or special to talk about.Les mer

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    Coyhaique National Park

    14. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    We reached the entrance of the national park at around 2 pm. There we got a brief explanation of the different trails. There are 2 different loop trails. The longer one goes to the top of the mountain and takes about 7-8 hours while the shorter one goes halfway to the mountain path and the diverges through the forest to join the mountain trail on its loop back. The rangers suggested doing the shorter one and the it would take us 3-4 hours.
    The trail was well marked and the initial path lead through some dense forest area.    Les mer

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    Switchover of plans

    14. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    The plan had been to meet at the corner nwar our hostels at 7:45 am and the walk to the bus station nearby to catch the 8 am bus towards Rio Tranquilo. This bus stops at Villa Cerro Castillo where we wanted to do the full day trek to the Cerro Castillo mountain.
    We woke up at 7 am and were ready to go by 7:30 am. There still was no reply from Hristo regarding the availability of the beds for the 2 of us in their hostel. So, we left our bags in the hostel and extended our stay in the current hostel only. We were at the agreed corner waiting for Hristo and Maria at 7:45 am. No one showed up. Hristo's status on the Messenger was still showing inactive for 14 hours. We assumed that the party in their hostel had lasted till quite late and they were not able to get up. After waiting for a few minutes, Melinda and I went to the bus station. There, we figured that since it was a Sunday, only 1 bus out of the 3 that leave at 8 am was going and that too was full with no places available. We tried negotiating with the driver directly but were told that all the seats were full. The bus left at 8 am without us. Having nothing to do, we sat outside the bus station eating biscuits and other snacks we had packed for the day. Just then Hristo and Maria reached there. They were surprised we had not waited for them at the agreed place while we were surprised that they had not responded to our messages for 14 hours and then had appeared 5 min after the bus had left. To which Hristo was surprised that he had not received any messages and not known which bus stop to go to had gone to a different one 1st and had got late due to that. It was then that we realized that due a recent update of the Apple OS, he had stopped receiving notifications for the last 2 days.
    In any case, there was not much we could do here now, so we decided to go to the other agency (Don Carlos) that we had been informed, had a bus on the same route at 9:30 am. We reached the agency to find it closed since it was a Sunday and they had buses from Mon-Fri only.
    Having nothing left to try for this day trip, we went and had our breakfast. After that, Hristo and Maria decided to go for the walk they had missed the previous evening while Melinda and I went to the park in the central plaza to enjoy the sun in the cold morning. While sitting there, just on a hunch, I decided to check if the tourist information center nearby, was open on the Sunday. It was!!! 👌👌
    There, upon asking if we could do anything nearby in half a day, they suggested we go to Coyhaique National Park. We didn't even need a bus to get there. The entrance was 2 kms from Coyhaique town and a 1 km inside from the main road. I messaged Hristo about this and that Melinda and I were planning to go for it. Now, that we had fixed the messenger problem, he received them immediately and messaged back that they too would join. We decided to meet up at a common point outside of the town. Around 1 pm we met up and walked North across the bridge to the side path that lead to the entrance of the national park. The path was quite steep and it ws quite sunny. The views of the surroundings were quite breathtaking.    Les mer

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    A nice evening at Edith's place

    13. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    After dinner, we went back to Hristo and Maria's hostel to see if we too could move there once I was back from Santiago. There, the people staying in the house had all gathered in the living room for a round of drinks. We sat and chatted for a while. There were 2 beds available but Melinda didn't want to sleep on a bunk bed due to her claustrophobia, so she decided to continue her stay at our present hostel only while I was to Santiago. We left just before 12 am, just in time before our hostel gates woule be locked. Back at the hostel, Melinda felt that it would be more convenient to stay together at Hristo's and Maria's place so I messaged them to reserve a place for us, but didn't get a reply back till we slept.Les mer

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    Piedra del IndioCloser view of the face like formation

    Piedra del Indio

    13. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    From the mate rotonda, we walked half way back the way we had come and then took a short diversion down to the bridge across the Rio Simpson. The bridhe though frequently used, is a metal rope bridge where only one vehicle could pass at a time. From the bridge, we could see the rock formation in the form of the face of an Indian (the indigenous people).
    We walked over to the other end of the river before turning back and going to the town. There, Maria joined us and we had our dinner.    Les mer

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    2Views from Mirador ChorilloMate Rotonda

    Mate Rotonda

    13. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    When we had reached half way through our walk from the North to South, Hristo joined us. There are some old steam run vehicles displayed in the open air here. From here we walked further South to the Mirador Chorillo. There were very lovely views from the viewpoint. After that, we ended our walk at the Mate Rotonda, so called since it has a statue of the Mate cup and bombilla.
    Mate is a traditional South American caffeine-rich infused drink, that was first consumed by the indigenous Guaraní and also spread by the Tupí people. It is prepared by steeping dried leaves of yerba mate in hot water in a shared hollow calabash gourd and is served with a metal straw from. The straw is called a bombilla in Spanish, a bomba in Portuguese, and a bombija or, more generally, a masassa(straw) in Arabic. The gourd is known as a mate or a guampa; while in Brazil, it has the specific name of cuia, or also cabaça.

    Coyhaique has a special association with the drink. One can find a lot of shops selling mate herbs, gourds and the bombillas.    Les mer

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    Views around Coyhaique

    13. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    After finishing the planning, we decided to go for a walk outside of the town of Coyhaique. There was a route suggested by the lady at the tourist information center where she had said we could have nice views of the hills and the Rio Simpson. Maria was a bit tired so Hristo walked her back to the hostel while Melinda and I walked along the trail suggested.
    The route goes the Western side of the town along the river Simpson. There is a lovely walkway along the rover about 50 mts above the river level. At regular intervals, there are viewpoints and parks. There is even a cycling and skating track next to the path. The views of green hills and the blue waters of the Rio Simpson were quite a sight.    Les mer

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    Main square CoyhaiqueA church choir sings in the main squareHaving Mote con Vaseillo

    Planning for Coyhaique

    13. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    The rest of the morning was spent in the main square planning for the coming days. We had to go to the tourist information center nearby multiple times with various questions before we came up with a plan to see the local sights during the rest of the day and Cerro Castillo trek on the next day. Then on 15th I would fly to Santiago while the rest could go to the 2 national parks within 10 kms of the town. Then I would be back on the 17th morning and we could all travel further south. There were only 2 buses a week going south from Coyhaique and these too were fully booked most of the times, so we decided to rent a vehicle instead (if possible) amd then directly from the airport we could continue South on the 17th Jan.
    It was almost 4 pm when we finished with our planning.    Les mer

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    American breakfast at ChelenkoArtesanal shops

    Coyhaique town

    13. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We met up at the main plaza and walked around to find a place to eat. It was around 11:30 am so we decided to have a heavy breakfast instead and skip lunch. The American breakfast at Chelenko was fantastic. We ate there and then looked around at the artesanal shops opposite to find something unique to buy.Les mer

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    Hostal Austral

    Coyhaique room hunt

    12. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    We started our room hunt after Maria and Hristo arrived. Almost every hostel seemed to be full due to some sports event happening in the town. Either they were full or too expensive for our budget. Finally, we decided to stay at Hostal Austral about 300 mts from the main plaza. It wasn't the best place but for our situation it worked just fine. It was a school converted to a hostel. Even the furniture from the classrooms was still there, all moved to ones side and bunk beds placed all over the classrooms. There were only 3 bathrooms for a total of about 30 possible occupants in all the rooms. I had my flight to Santiago in 2 days so I didn't want to change the hostel so Melinda and I booked for 2 nights while Hristo didn't like the place so they decided to stay there for 1 night only and look for another place for the rest of the days.
    Next morning, Hristo went out looking for an alternate accommodation but found everything to be more expensive or too far. Finally, just when he had given up he decided to check on booking.com and found one place for 2 just 50 mts from our hostel. It was a bit more expensive but much better in comfort and more practical in the bathrooms etc. They moved their stuff to the hostel.    Les mer

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    Our host for the last ride to Coyhaique

    Coyhaique finally

    12. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    We finally reached Coyhaique around 8:15 pm. Hristo and Maria were expected to reach there around 9:30 pm. We were dropped off near the main plaza bang opposite the tourist information office. We thanked the lady. She even gave a reference to a hostel her mom was running in case we weren't able to find anything. She wasn't sure if there were places available but promised to help out if we were stuck without a place. That was such a lovely gesture. We were feeling bad that we couldn't offer her anything in return.
    While waiting for Maria and Hristo, we went to the information center which strangely was still open. Here we got a lot of information regarding the things we could do from the town. We also got information regarding where to look for the hostels etc.    Les mer

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    Our vehicle
    Cascada La VirginCoyhaique below

    Cascada La Virgin

    12. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    On the way to Coyhaique, we stopped at the Cascada La Virgin since our host wanted to make a phone call. This gave us the opportunity to come out and take pictures of the Cascada La Virgin waterfalls. I finally got some connection for a few seconds and was able to receive messages from Hristo and Maria that after getting off from the 1st ride, they had found the bus to Coyhaique waiting to get on to the ferry so they had bought the tickets for the bus and were able to ride directly. But, they jad taken the ferry after ours so they were still a bit behind and would reach Coyhaique about 30 min after us. Before I could reply back, the data got disconnected and the only message that I could sent was OK 😁
    Around 8 pm we reached the last stretch from where the road climbs down into the town. Here I got data again and was finally able to communicate with Hristo and Maria and told them we would wait for them at the main plaza.    Les mer

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    Off to Coyhaique (4th ride)

    12. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Within 10 min of waiting, we managed to get a ride with a lovely lady driving a pickup jeep. She was working at the university and had impeccable English so had some fantastic discussions while enjoying the fabulous scenery around. She was working as a social worker in different fields and was able to tell a lot about the social structure of Chile and the issues faced by the people. It was a very eye opening discussion about the domestic violence seen in Chile and the reasons behind it all.Les mer

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    Our host with his family

    Dropoff near Coyhaique

    12. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    After a pleasant journey of almost 120 kms, we were dropped off 20 kms before the Coyhaique junction where the wife and son of our host were waiting to be picked up. We got of thanked them and then walked across the road to take hopefully the last ride of the day to Coyhaique.Les mer

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    The rainbow stretch

    12. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Suddenly, a lot of clouds started gathering around the hills and it started pouring heavily. We got a lovely double rainbow when eventually the clouds dispersed a bit. As fast as they had appeared, the clouds disappeared and the sun shone again. We continued on our journey South.Les mer

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    Mañihuales lake

    Off from Puerto Cisnes (ride 3)

    12. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We didn't have to wait too long at Puerto Cisnes. Within about 10 min of us waiting there, a person came in a pickup. He was alone, going to pickup his family just 20 kms short of Coyhaique. We decided to go further with him hoping that the last 20 kms should be fine with any vehicle going in that direction.
    The route as it had been till now, was extremely scenic with huge mountains on both sides of the valley we were driving through. Unfortunately, the person who gave us the ride didn't speak any English and with my limited Spanish, we couldn't go beyond 10-15 min of small talk. The rest of the journey was spent listening to the music.    Les mer

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    A prayer place at the junction
    The hotdog kiosk at the junctionMelinda in the bus shelterGetting ready for a lift

    Puerto Cisnes junction

    12. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    At the junction where we were dropped, there was a hotdog kiosk selling warm hotdogs and coffee/tea. We left our bags at the bus shelter and ran to the kiosk to order some food. It seemed to be a very popular place. Every vehicle passing by on the main road or to the port stopped by for a quick bite. There were a lot of bikers stopping by as well. Around 5:15 pm, we were done with the food and the rain too had stopped so we crossed the road and stood waiting for a lift further.Les mer

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    Our ride vehicleThe geologist with us

    Drop off at Puerto Cisnes

    12. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    After the pass, we stopped a while at one of the waterfalls flowing down the mountain side. The geologist dropped us at the junction of Puerto Cisnes road where his assistant was waiting to be picked up. It was raining quite heavily now but luckily, there was a bus shelter nearby. We dropped our bags in the shelter and waited a while for the rain to subside.Les mer

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    Quelat Pass

    Over the Queulat Pass

    12. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    It rained on and off and we were happy we were in the cabin, particularly after the Queulat National Park when the road started climbing in the mountains and it started getting very cloudy and rainy. We passed the Queulat pass at 500 meters above sea level around 4:30 pm. It was quite cloudy on the other side of the pass and a steady rain continued all the while.Les mer

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    2nd hitch ride of the day

    12. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    The workers that took us to the ferry, were able to cross over the que of vehicles all the way to the front since they had priority and dropped us at the ferry. Then they drove on along the road towards the clearance area. The ferry was about to leave and knowing that Hristo and Maria were coming with normal citizens we guessed they wouldn't be able to make it to the front of the que and would come via some subsequent ferry, Melinda and I went in with our bags. Within a few seconds, the ferry left the port. We went around in the ferry asking if any of the vehicles could give us a ride till Coyhaique. An old couple agreed to take us but they didn't have a place inside on the back seats so they offered us places in the back of the pickup. I was fine with that but Melinda was having a cold and wanted to ride inside the cabin since the distance too was 200 kms and it was raining on and off. We asked around with the other vehicles and finally found a geologist traveling alone. He had place for the 2 of us in his pickup but he was going only about 60 kms to Puerto Cisnes. We decided to go with him. The journey was very scenic with lovely views of the fjords and the hills around.Les mer

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    2Fantastic dinner
    2Senderos Puyuhuapi restaurantBreakfast at the same placeTrying to hitch a rideThat was the pickup truck we took

    Off from Puyuhuapi

    12. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Getting off after our ride from the Queulat National Park, we found a nice restaurant Senderos Puyuhuapi where we had our dinner. The food was so good that we returned here the next day to have our brunch as well. We were lucky as we happened to be the last customers before they closed for a few days to go to the countryside.
    Before that, on the previous evening, we had still not heard back from the fisherman to take us to the hot springs and when we checked the weather, it showed rain almost the whole day plus we had driven along the fjord 2 times on the day before. So, we decided to skip the hot springs and instead go to Coyhaique. We went to get our tickets at the supermercado but were told that all the places in the 7 am bus were taken and that we could take it on the next day. We decided to hitch hike instead 😎
    The fisherman guy called Hristo's number late in the night around 12 am but having decided to move on from Puyuhuapi, he ignored the call.
    Not having any paln in particular, we woke up late, got ready, checked out and carried our bags to Senderos Puyuhuapi to have our brunch, it was almost 1:30 pm. We decided to try and hitch hike all the way to Coyhaique. The plan was to split up in whatever capacity we could and meet at the central plaza of Coyhaique. We were still in Chile and both Hristo and I had local SIM cards so we could sync up, just that I was using Claro which didn't have a good coverage in this area while Hristo was using Entel and had connection everywhere. The hope was that I too would get a connection in Coyhaique so we will be able to meetup. We walked 2.5 kms to the Southern exit of the village and waited there for someone to pick us up. After a while, a pickup came from the village and agreed to take 2 of us to the ferry crossing nearby where they were working in clearing the road. Melinda and I went with them. Just behind us, Hristo and Maria too got a lift till the ferry where the jeep in which they were travelling would stop a short distance on the other side of the ferry port.    Les mer

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    U shaped valleys till the current glacierWith the giy who gave us a lift to PuyuhuapiFerry crossing near Puyuhuapi

    Getting back to Puyuhuapi

    11. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    After the interpretative trail, we went to the short trails with the viewpoints of the glacier. From one of them, we could clearly see the U shaped valleys formed due to the movement of the glacier, all the way to it current location.
    Back at the parking, our van driver was of course not there. We decided to try and hitch hike our way back to Puyuhuapi. We tried stopping a few vehicles while walking out of the national park but weren't lucky. After about 3 kms walk, we reached the main road between Coyhaique and Puyuhuapi. We stopped here and waited for a ride. There was a girl from Israel traveling alone in South America from South to North. She to came and sat with us waiting for a ride to Puyuhuapi. We had to wait almost 30-40 min but still didn't get lucky. The Israeli girl went to the park ranger office to see if there was any option. She was told that one of workers was going to Puyuhuapi in 10-15 min and that he had a pickup van so we could all go. In the meantime, we continued trying to flag down vehicles we could take. A small truck stopped and agreed to take one of us to Puyuhuapi. We offered the Israeli girl to go for it while we continued waiting. In about 5 min, the pickup from the national park came and we all got a place to sit in it. We got a ride all the way to the ferry crossing, then across it and then to the village with the same guy. We reached back around 7 pm and paid him 4000 CLP as a tip.    Les mer

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    Interpretative trail

    11. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Back from the lake, we wanted to avoid going via the parking so that we don't meet our van driver. It was already 3:10 pm and we still had 2 small trails ledt to do. After paying so much as the entry fee for the national park, we didn't want to miss tjem just because the driver wants to get an early off.
    Unfortunately, we came out straight in the parking and the driver saw us. We tried to ignore his calls and continued walking towards the trail no. 3. He continued calling after us and then when we didn't respond, ran after us. He caught up with us when we were already a few meters in the trail. He told us to come so we could leave. We told him clearly that, that had not been the arrangement. We had wanted to do all the trails and had even confirmed that we would start back around 5 pm. The lady at the informacion center had said so, the lady organizing the drop and pickup too had said the same and even the owner lady had confirmed. So, the message was clear, we would not be leaving till we are done. He threatened that he would leave us and go now. To which we told him that he could go if he wanted, we didn't care. He started back in a huff and then suddenly remembered that we had not paid for the trip so he came back again after us and told us to pay 2000 CLP per person for the drop off. We told him that we were not going to pay anything since the agreement was a drop off and pickup and if he broke that agreement, then we were not obliged to pay anything. He threatened that he would report us to the police and they would catch us when we returned. We told him to do whatever and that we would continue with our treks. He left after that and we continued with our walk.
    The track was an interpretative trail with boards marking the interesting geological points. There were a lot of geological remnants of the glacier receding over many thousand years and they had made it quite interesting with a lot of information. We had to pass through very narrow gaps between rocks and below fallen rocks forming a tunnel.    Les mer

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    Lake Témpanos

    11. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We trekked back on the trek no 1. back to starting point and then did the trek no. 2 to the Témpanos Laguna. We reached there at around 2:40 pm. Now, we knew that the estimates being told by the driver were totally false. All of us are quite brisk walkers and we had managed to do both the walks in much less than the estimated times on the maps but we still wouldn't be able to do more than 2 out of the 4 treks. That really pissed us off and we decided to not go to the parking till be finish all our 4 treks.
    There was clear view of the glacier with the lake in front. At the lake, there is a boat ride one can take to the other end. But there were about 15 people waiting and they can fit only 7 people in the boat and each ride lasts about 30 min. We decided to skip the ride and trek back.    Les mer

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    Ventisquero Colgante viewpoint

    11. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    It to ok us quite a few minutes to break the breathtaking spell of the amazing view in front of us but once done, we just couldn't stop taking pictures from every possible angle. It was a sight to behold. We could even see the bright blue of the old amd pure ice below between the cracks.Les mer

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    Reached Ventisquero Colgante

    11. januar 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    After walking for about 1.5 hrs to do the 3.3 km trek, we reached the viewpoint at around 1 pm. The view of the glacier was breathtaking. The hanging glacier was many meter above the base of the mountain. There was a big waterfall below, formed by the melting waters of the glacier. The waterfall ended in forming the Rio Ventisquero river. We were totally mesmerized by the view amd it took quite a few minutes before we could take our eyes off it and started taking pictures.Les mer

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