• The Craze for Travelling
  • The Craze for Travelling

The South American Odyssey

Un’avventura di 147 giorni di The Craze for Travelling Leggi altro
  • Jurasi hot springs

    25 novembre 2017, Cile ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We again woke up late but made sure we were down for breakfast before they closed. We checked out and bought some food items like cakes, biscuits, juice bottles and a water can of 6L. This time we were a bit more conservative with our purchases compared to when we went into the Salar Uyuni a few months ago. We left the place by about 11 am. (Late again 😜😜)

    Just outside the village of Putre, about 10 kms away are the Jurasi hot springs. We decided to stop by and check them out. It looked very artificial and there was a huge dog aggressively running towards us. It almost attacked me and retreated only when I bent to pick up a stone. We decided to skip this place.
    Leggi altro

  • Vehicle makeover

    25 novembre 2017, Cile ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    The previous day, while driving back from the Suri Plaza, we had lost the front grill of our vehicle due to the broken roads and the heavy shaking of the vehicle. The sounds made by our old vehicle and the soft landing on the sand road had meant that we completely missed when it happened. We first noticed the gaping hole in front, in the morning when we came out to drive away.
    Our 2nd stop of the day was at Las Cuevas. Here we saw an abandoned Nissan jeep with only 1 tyre out of the 4. All the internal parts seemed to have been taken away. This looked like it was left there after all the claims had been done. This vehicle gave us an idea and pretty soon, we had a nice new grill on our vehicle 😁😁😁
    Leggi altro

  • Las Cuevas on the other side of the road

    25 novembre 2017, Cile ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    The track continued on the other side of the road. We saw many viscachas there. There were boulders in that area and tens of viscachas soaking up the early morning sun. Some of them would run away while others would just freeze where they were till we got too close.Leggi altro

  • Alero Las Cuevas and dust devils

    25 novembre 2017, Cile ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    Along the trail there are overhanging rocks that have been used for shelter for 7000 to 9000 years before the current time. The traders from the highlands going to the seaside for trading might have stopped here on the way.
    The afternoon was quite hot and it was quite windy due to the high altitude. This was a perfect recipe for dust devils to form. We saw about 10 of them form amd move across the horizon quite some distance away in the mountains.
    Leggi altro

  • Parinacota & Pomerape

    25 novembre 2017, Cile ⋅ ⛅ 0 °C

    A bit further from the Las Cuevas stop, there are 3 viewpoints with descriptions about the mountains and the flora and fauna in the region. After we crossed a small ridge, we could see the majestic Parinacota and Pomerape volcanoes. Both the volcanoes are on the Chile - Bolivia border. Parinacota is 6348 mts high and in the shape of a perfect cone. It has a crater on the top. Pomirape is a bit smaller amd is 6282 mts high.Leggi altro

  • Parinacota village

    25 novembre 2017, Cile ⋅ ⛅ 0 °C

    Our initial plan was to park at Parinacota village and then trek to the Cotacotani lake viewpoint. We were at a pretty high altitude now and climbing just a few steps to the viewpoint made us breathless. At the viewpoint, we realized that the distance to the lookout was about 4.5 kms. This would take us about 2.5 hrs to go and come back in the searing heat of the high altitude sun and with no trees or any shade anywhere. We came down into the village to ask around if we could take our 4x4 vehicle all the way. As usual in Bolivia, Peru and now in Chile, the tourist office was closed. We've not even once found any of them open at any hour in any of the 3 countries we have visited till now.
    The office was closed. The staff was sitting in a jeep outside but made no effort to indicate that they worked there. We actually thought they were some local tourists. We walked to the lake at the end of the village and it was only when we were returning we saw one of them go into the office. We managed to get a few seconds with him but we were told that the office was closed and that we could take our vehicle to the lookout point.
    We started the drive and had to use the 4x4 at a few places. At one point our gravel track ended and there were small sand hills formed by another gravel track running perpendicular to our road. There was a board indicating entry for authorized persons only. We had no where else to turn to so we drove on over these sand hills onto the other track and started driving in one of the directions which we felt was almost towards the direction we wanted to go to. After driving for a few seconds, we realized we were going perpendicular and away from our marked track on the map. There was no one else on this road and we ended up 2 kms away from the village with another board indicating that we had been in a forbidden zome again. (As with every trip of ours this has to happen 😉).
    We drove back to the village, now on the legal road amd decided to continue further on the main road to the roadside viewpoint of the same lake.
    Leggi altro

  • Missed Cotacotani Lake

    25 novembre 2017, Cile ⋅ ⛅ 0 °C

    On the way out of the Parinacota village we saw a forked road, both leading to the main road. There was a board indicating that the road to the right was for authorized personnel only and we realized that we had used that one when going towards the village. 😜😜😜 That made it twice in half a day when we had been driving on unauthorized roads. In any case no one had stopped us and neither of us had seen the no entry sign when going towards the village.
    Once back on the main road, Hristo set up the Cotacotani viewpoint on the gps and we continued on our journey. A few kms away, we saw a huge que of trucks on the road. We were not sure about the reason but presumed it to be the checkpoint for trucks on the Bolivia border with Chile. We drove past them and after driving 2-3 kms found out that the trucks had been stopped due to road repair work and the que would open on our side in about 10-15 min.
    After a few minutes, the road opened and we continued further along with the trucks. We saw some views of Cotacotani lake on the left of the road but continued driving to the point marked in the gps. After a few kms we could see the lake no more and Hristo realized that the gps had not been working properly and that we had missed the lake altogether.
    Just at that point, we saw a track going down to the left and back towards the lake's direction. We turned around there and started downwards on the rough gravel road.
    Leggi altro

  • Cotacotani lake

    25 novembre 2017, Cile ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    The downward gravel road led us back in parallel to the main road to the views of the Cotacotani lake. Its a beautiful lake with many islands separating the water into channels and smaller lagoons. We got some nice views of the laguna from an elevated position. The track eventually lead us down to the shore of the lake and continued on the left side of the lake. At one point we could see the reflection of the Parinacota in the Cotacotani lake.

    Laguna de Cotacotani (hispanicized expression) or Quta Qutani is a lake located in the Andean Altiplano of Chile. It lies 4 km northwest of Chungará Lake, which is one of the highest lakes in the world and is surrounded by several volcanoes, such as the Payachata volcanic group (Parinacota and Pomerape), Sajama volcano and Wallatiri. Cotacotani is separated from the lake Chungará by a strip of volcanic rock and receives groundwater inflow from that lake.
    Cotacotani Lake's main feature is the considerable number of islands and islets that it holds, which are really lava hummocks generated by a past volcanic event. With a surface of 6 km², the Cotacotani holds a volume of water between 30 to 40 million of m³, which empty through Lauca River into Coipasa Lake, in Bolivia.
    Leggi altro

  • Vicuñas near Cotacotani lake

    25 novembre 2017, Cile ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    After we parked at the lookout we had been trying to reach from the Parinacota village end, we tried to climb a lava hill next to the lake for better views. The air was very rarefied and after climbing about halfway, we realized its the same view we had seen earlier plus we were getting late with a long distance still to go before sunset so we decided to go back and continue further.
    As we were driving back near the lake shore, we stopped to take a picture of the reflection of the Cotacotani volcano in the lake water. I walked back to that point along the shore while Hristo drove the vehicle along the track. A herd of vicuñas was trying to come towards the direction we were coming from and got trapped between the lava hills on one side with our vehicle just below and the lake with me standing near the shore. It was total panic chaos after that. Most of the herd ran past me while i prepared my cameras to take pictures and videos while one of them was too scared and started running towards the vehicle. Here, Hristo came out and started running after it 😄😄😄 Both kept running towards amd away from each other for about a minute before Hristo got totally out of breath due to the altitude and the vicuña decided that going around the lake was a safer option 😁😁😁
    Finally, it ran around the lake and the rest of the herd that had stopped and was looking back at the circus happening behind, too ran and joined it at the opposite end of the lake.
    Leggi altro

  • Cotacotani viewpoint

    25 novembre 2017, Cile ⋅ 🌬 3 °C

    After all that drama, we tried to take some pictures of the reflection of the Parinacota volcano in the Cotacotani lake but it was quite windy and we couldn't see the reflection. After that, we drove back to the main road towards the viewpoint. Here, again, we had to join the queue off the trucks waiting for the road repair. Luckily, the queue started in a few minutes and then a km away, we were able to drive off the road for a few meters to the view point. The views were amazing. We spent a few minutes taking pictures and enjoying the view and then were able to get back to the end of the truck queue and continued further along the road.Leggi altro

  • Chungará Lake

    25 novembre 2017, Cile ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Just 2-3 kms in the queue and we saw the Chungará lake. All the trucks in the queue were ahead of us so we were able to stop and take pictures. It was a typical, beautiful, high altitude altiplano lake.

    Chungará (hispanicized spelling of Aymara chunkara "pointed mountain") is a lake situated in the extreme north of Chile, in the Altiplano of Arica y Parinacota Region in the Lauca National Park. It is near the volcanos Parinacota (20,827 ft or 6,348 m) and Pomerape (20,413 ft or 6,222 m). It was formed 8000 years ago, when a major collapse of the edifice of Parinacota produced an avalanche of 6 km³ of debris which blocked drainage pattern, thus creating the lake.
    Leggi altro

  • South to Salar de Surire

    25 novembre 2017, Cile ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Laguna Chungará is just 5 kms from the border of Bolivia. We managed to inch forward among the trucks and take the right exit to go South. We could see the queue of the trucks going all the way to Bolivia.
    We didn't have a booking for any place for that night amd there were major villages in this region. It was about 5 pm now, so we had about 3 hours of driving before it became too dark. The nearest town where we knew we could definitely find a place to stay was at Colchane, another border town about 200 kms away with the drive all the way through in the altiplano.
    We knew we would be quite late to reach there, so we decided to try staying at one of the Conaf (road and tourism authorities) place near Salar de Surire about 100 kms away. I had read about it in one of the blogs and we also found it on the Maps.me gps. This would be perfect for us since we had Salar Surire as our next destination in the itinerary, so basically, we could just get up the next morning and drive around the Surire salt plains.
    Leggi altro

  • Suris and vicuñas

    25 novembre 2017, Cile ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    A few kms on our journey South, we saw Suris, also called Rheas or Ñandú, a flightless bird like the Ostrich. There were heards of Vicuñas also nearby. It seems they seem to enjoy a symbiotic relationship since we had never seen the Rheas without the vicuñas being in the vacinity. The route was quite scenic but we were a bit hungry as well. We had had biscuits and some juice but no proper lunch and it seemed that we might not get dinner as well since we had started late in the morning and wouldn't be able to make it to Colchane as planned.Leggi altro

  • Fooooooddd

    25 novembre 2017, Cile ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    About 30 kms from the junction near Chungará lake where we had turned South, we were driving on gravel road all the way. There were quite a few trucks going on the road. At one of the tiny village of about 5 huts called Ancuta, we saw 3 big trucks parked near the huts. We guessed that it could be a place where the truck drivers stop to eat food. We decided to stop and check it out.
    Its amazing, one of the 5 huts in the village was a restaurant. Of course, there were no boards or signs but the truck drivers just knew about it. We too stopped and had our meal there. I was able to get some rice, salad and eggs in the vegetarian version of the meal.
    Leggi altro

  • Refueling time

    25 novembre 2017, Cile ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    By the time we finished our meal and started again, it was 7 pm, we were still 60 kms from the Salar Surire. The fuel light turned on. We were running on the last 5 L of fuel now. We decided to stop and refuel from the tanks we were carrying. We had 40L in the tanks and we had done our calculations that this would be enough to get us back to one of the towns where there was a fuel station. So, we emptied one of the tanks into the vehicle and started on the way again. The fuel gauge now showed slightly more than half a tank of fuel.Leggi altro

  • Salar de Surire

    25 novembre 2017, Cile ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    The way continued South towards Salar Surire. There were some amazing rock formations with different colors on the way but we continued driving since it was getting dark. We reached the Salar de Surire around 8:30 pm. It was starting to get dark now. We decided to go to the Conaf place and try and find a place to stay. The alternate plan was to continue further and sleep at the Pollequere hot springs. I had read in one of the blogs that the writer had camped besides the hot springs and it had been an amazing experience.Leggi altro

  • A place to stay??

    25 novembre 2017, Cile ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    As we reached the salt plains of Surire, it was quite dark, we could barely see the road but in the distance, we saw some lights and thought this would be the Conaf place. We drove into the campus with the lights. It turned out to be the salt extraction factory. The workers were surprised to see us since it is forbidden to enter there. We asked them for a place to stay and they too pointed to the Conaf as the only place nearby. We drove further to the Conaf place but as with all their offices and centers, this too was closed. There was absolutely no lights there, it was pitch dark. We used the lights of the vehicle to check the place. There was no one around. We could see inside the rooms and saw nice beds with blankets but everything was locked. We decided to check if any of the windows was open. One of them opened partially, we were tempted to break in and sleep inside, but, not knowing the penalty for trespassing, we decided not to do it. It was a hard dilemma since it was getting cold and we knew that the nights in the altiplano are generally below freezing temperatures so it wouldn't be pleasant sleeping in the vehicle and here we have a nice cosy room with beds and blankets and no one around for miles to notice we were there. But, since we were not sure if someone would turn up in the early morning, we decided to skip the risky move and instead go to the Pollequere hot springs and sleep in the vehicle.Leggi altro

  • Magical night at Pollequere hot springs

    25 novembre 2017, Cile ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    We reached Pollequere hot springs and parked our vehicle near the springs. There was steam from the hot springs that we could see in the moonlight. We used the lights of the vehicle to look around the place and decided to park it just behind a low wall there to protect from the strong winds of the altiplano.
    Hristo was quite tired and it was quite cold outside so he decided to sleep immediately while I kept looking at the stars and was tempted to go out and take pictures. In the end, the draw of the stars was too much. I took out my tripod and took some lovely pictures of billions and billions of stars shining over the salt plains. The moon was about a half full and the light was too much to capture the beauty of the starry night that the eyes saw. It was stunning!! Magical!! Words or pictures just can't describe what the eyes saw. It was a clear dark sky, there were so many stars that there was hardly a spec of darkness where I couldn't see a star or a shining dot. The milky whiteness from the moonlight added to the mystic effect of the night. As I moved around with my tripod taking pictures of the stars from different places and angles, I thought I saw mysterious flashes beyond the horizon on the Northern side behind the hills. They almost looked like flashes of lightning during a storm but without the lightning visible. Just hazy flashes of light beyond the hills. I thought I must have imagined it.
    In the night it became quite cold and both of us woke up to take out warmer jackets and fleece to wear. By now, the moon had set behind the hills towards the South and the only light was from the billions of stars in the sky. It was an undescribable spectacle. Niw, even the Milky Way was visible directly above the vehicle but it was too cold to step out and try and take pictures. It was then that we both saw those mysterious flashes again and we saw them at the same time. So, we were sure now that it was not a work of imagination and that there actually were something going on. The vehicle was pointed towards the North and we saw these light flashes in that direction.
    After about an hour or so of sleep, it became extremely cold. It was about 2 am. We could feel it was below freezing and even with our winter jackets and fleece, we were feeling cold inside the vehicle. We turned on the engine and the heater for about 30 min. It became nice and cozy inside. The windows cleared up and we again saw those mysterious flashes in the sky but still not even a spec of clos anywhere. It was a bit unreal to see flashes in the sky with no clouds anywhere. It was so bright with the lights of the gazillions of stars that I was able to take a picture of the night sky with even my cellphone.

    After that, we slept for a few hours more when it again got very cold by around 5 am. I turned on the engine again for another 30 min and we were able to sleep for some more time.
    It was in the morning only that we were able to confirm that it had been below freezing in the night when we saw ice on top of even the hot water springs where they were shallow.
    It had been an uncomfortable and freezing cold night but, one, that I would not exchange for anything else in the world. It had been the most amazing and magical places and nights I've ever experienced.
    Leggi altro

  • Morning at Pollequere hot springs

    26 novembre 2017, Cile ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    It was extremely cold early in the morning and by now, the heat in the vehicle had dissipated, so we woke up as soon as the sun was out at 7 am. It was amazing. Even in the winter jackets and fleece we felt chilled down to the bones if we stood in the shadows. In the sun, the temperatures were 4-5C higher and quite pleasant in our winter clothes but at the same time, the sun was very sharp and piercing due to the high altitude.
    Due to the low temperatures, the steam from the hot spring was quite dense and we could see many places in the plains where steam was rising up. The salt flats seemed to be on fire.
    Leggi altro

  • Hot springs in the salt plains

    26 novembre 2017, Cile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We decided to go for a walk to see the hot springs. There were hundreds of flamingos in one portion of the slat lake just a few hundred meteres away. There we herds of vicuñas grazing in the grasslands at the edge of the salar. We could also see some of them in the salt plains among the hot springs.
    We walked from one hot spring to another. At some places, the top surface was frozen with ice, indicating that the temperatures had been below freezing in the night.
    Leggi altro