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The South American Odyssey
  • The Craze for Travelling
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The South American Odyssey

Et 147-dagers eventyr av The Craze for Travelling Les mer
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    Off to Pinchollo Geyser

    16. november 2017, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    From Cruz del Condor, we planned to go to the Pinchollo geyser. Not too many people go there but since we didn't have anything else planned for the rest of the day, we decided to have a look here.
    The geyser is a trek of 9 kms from the main road about 12 kms further away from Cruz del Condor.
    After waiting for about 25-30 min, we caught a bus in that direction and were dropped off on the main road near the Tambapampa village at about 10:15 am.
    From here started a trek of 9 km each way, all above 4000 mts with the final elevation being about 4400 mts.
    The day was still sunny but the breeze was quite cool due to the altitude. The views all around were breathtaking and were crossed a few streams on the way. So, one thing was sure, we wouldn't run out of water like we had the day before.    Les mer

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    The geothermal area near geyser

    16. november 2017, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We did the 9 kms trek in about 2.5 hours. Not a bad feat considering that all the 9 kms were above 4000 mts above sea level.
    Eventually, we reached the geothermal area near the geyser. We could smell the hydrogen sulphide in the air and there were sulphur deposits on the ground. In between, there were fumeroles constantly throwing out steam and other gases. There were mud pots and hot pools of boiling water constantly bubbling water.Les mer

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    Views of the Pinchollo geyser

    16. november 2017, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Just on the other side of the ridge next to the geothermal area is the geyser. It is in the river canyon right next to the river's edge. The hot water from below the earth at very high pressure mixes with the cold water of the river coming from the mountains behind causing the water to shoot up in the air and a lot of super heated steam to rise quite high. Its an amazing sight!!
    We were totally mesmerized for quite some time.    Les mer

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    Time to head back

    16. november 2017, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We were at the Pinchollo geyser for more than 1.5 hours enjoying every moment of it. Suddenly, it became quite cold and we could see dark threatening clouds above the canyon. Soon, there was thunder behind the hills along the canyon.
    We decided to head back quickly before the rains started.    Les mer

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    Inside the excursion busWe got a lift in this bus

    Back to Cabanaconde

    16. november 2017, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

    Back on the main road we started walking towards Cabanaconde. The road hardly has any traffic. We were hoping to catch a bus or get a lift from any other vehicle. After walking for another 1.5 kms we decided to sit along the roadside and wait for a vehicle to pass by. Soon, we got a lift with a school excursion bus going towards Cabanaconde. We reached back at about 5 pm. We immediately went to have our dinner/lunch. After that we were back at our hostel to sleep early. We planned to catch the early morning bus to the hot springs the next morning.Les mer

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    Terraced farms everywhere2Geyser in the canyon

    To Llahuar

    17. november 2017, Peru ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    We woke up early again. The bus to llahuar was at 7 am. I had some problem with my alarm sound so I barely got the time to check out and pay the bill and reach the bus at the main square at 6:57 am. Hristo had got ready a bit earlier so he was already there having had his breakfast.
    The bus set of in a totally opposite direction than the one we had been going for the last 2-3 days. The views were equally good in this direction.
    Llahuar is down in the canyon and has natural hot springs there. There is only 1 bus per day going from Cabanaconde to Tapay that stops near Llahuar. From the bus stop the hot springs are about 1.5 kms down to the river below.
    The same bus goes all the way to Tapay at the end of the road and then returns around 12 pm to the same spot on the way back to Cabanaconde. The route is hardly used by any other vehicle so if one misses the bus, its a wait for another day to come back.
    The plan was to go to the hot springs and stay overnight if it was good, else leave back to Cabanaconde by the afternoon bus and from there on, take the bus to Arequipa.    Les mer

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    Reached Llahuar

    17. november 2017, Peru ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    The bus journey took about 1 hour and S/ 10 per person to the Llahuar stop. From there we trekked down into the canyon, across a bridge and the slightly up again to the 4-5 huts that form the village of Llahuar.
    The main place in the village is the Llahuar Lodge. It is situated right above where rio Colca merges with the rio Molloco to form the rio Majes. The hot springs are right next to the junction of the rivers and belong to the Llahuar Lodge.    Les mer

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    Llahuar Lodge

    17. november 2017, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Llahuar Lodge is the 1st hut one encounters when you enter the village. They are situated about 50 mts above the river level and own the hot springs. Its a beautiful location with great views. All the information displayed in the shack is in English and they have rooms to stay overnight and meals are also provided. The lodge has been in operation since 2001 and seemed all equipped to exploit tourists. They charge S/ 10 per person for using the hot springs and the beds cost S/ 25 per person with usage of the hot springs included.
    It was 8:40 am and I had not had anything to eat so we decided to have some food before going to the hot springs.    Les mer

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    23The kitchenHuts to stay overnightLlahuar Lodge huts3

    Breakfast at Llahuar Lodge

    17. november 2017, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    I ordered an egg and cheese sandwich with lemonade and Hristo ordered a fruit salad with lemonade. After the food, we paid for the hot springs and went down.

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    Rio Majes
    Rio MajesThe top 2 hot poolsBottom 2 hot pools next to the river3

    Llahuar Hot Springs

    17. november 2017, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Right next to the river are the 4 pools with the hot water. The 2 slightly higher were quite cool and felt about 23C while the ones next to the river were a bit hotter at about 26-27C, still quite colder than the advertised 39C. This was ok with us since it was very sunny and quite hot in the canyon.
    There was no shade and the sun beating down on us didn't make it any easier. To add to that, the hot water wasn't very pleasant to sit in. After about 15 min, we moved to the higher much cooler pools. Here we sat in the water for another 40-50 min. There were quite a few small mosquitoes and sun flies there. They bit me pretty badly all over the face so I was out earlier, wore all the clothes and sat in the shade of the only umbrella there.
    At 11 am, we decided to start walking back to catch the 12 pm return bus to Cabanaconde since there was not much else to do here.    Les mer

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    Mules on the way up to the Llahuar bus stop2The bus back to CabanacondeChanging the burst tyre

    Back at Llahuar bus stop

    17. november 2017, Peru ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    We climbed back up and were at the bus stop at 11:40, 20 min before the bus time. It was extremely hot and the sun was very sharp. While we waited for the bus, Hristo had a look at the maps and felt we should do the hike to the Huaruro waterfall and go back to Cabanaconde the next day since we had come prepared for an overnight stay. I had a different opinion since I felt that the hike of 5 hours to the waterfall with an elevation difference of about 500 mts would be suicidal in the burning sun, plus there was no place to stay at the waterfalls so we would have to trek down another 1.5 hrs to the nearest village for the overnight stay. Not only would the trek be too tiring and hot, we would also be trekking the last hour in pitch darkness as well.
    Eventually, we decided to drop the idea and head back to Cabanaconde. The bus came right on time around 12 pm. On the way back, one of the bus types blew up in a blast. The driver and the conductor changed the tyre while we waited before boarding the bus again to continue the journey.    Les mer

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    2Fixing the bus tyre
    2Fixing the bus tyre2A cute little kid sitting next to me in the busAt Cabanaconde

    Off to Arequipa

    17. november 2017, Peru ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Due to the delay because of the tyre change, we reached Cabanaconde at 1:48 pm, just minutes before the 2 pm bus to Arequipa. We bought the tickets immediately and ran to our hostel to get the bags. We barely got the time to sit inside when the bus started.Les mer

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    At Maca

    17. november 2017, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    The beautiful views contained along the road. We reached the small village of Maca at around 3 pm. The bus stopped for a while here to drop and pick up people before moving on.

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    Llamas and Alpacas on the way

    17. november 2017, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    An hour from Chivay, we reached a pass. On one side of the pass were wetlands (boefdals), the ideal place for llamas and alpacas and sure enough, there were heards of them grazing in the marshland.

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