• The Craze for Travelling
  • The Craze for Travelling

The South American Odyssey

A 147-day adventure by The Craze for Travelling Read more
  • Back to Puerto Ibáñez

    January 22, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    As planned, we were up and ready early. The bus came and picked us up a little after 8 am. Then, it was all the way back about 120 kms to Puerto Ibáñez. We turned off the Carretera Austral towards Puerto Ibáñez, past the Laguna Morales and reached the port on the Lago General Carrera, just before 10 am.Read more

  • On the ferry to Chile Chico

    January 22, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    We reached Puerto Ibáñez and paid the bus driver 5000 CLP per person for the ride. We weren't even sure if we would be able to get on to the ferry, if there were enough tickets left for us. The bus terminal and the ferry terminal are the same. We went inside the terminal to purchase tickets for the ferry. Luckily, the tickets were available and the ferry was at 11 am. The tickets were 2250 CLP per person. It was very windy and cold on the lake shore. We sat in the sun waiting for the ferry but we needed to wear our winter jackets, it was that cold. The ferry arrived around 10:30 am.Read more

  • Puerto Ibáñez to Chile Chico

    January 22, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The ferry left Puerto Ibáñez at 11 am. It wqs sunny but very cold on the deck so we stayed inside. The seats were very comfortable and we had nice views of the milky blue waters of the Lago General Carrera. The ride was about 2 hours and at some places we were meters from the Argentina border in the middle of the lake. We reached Chile Chico at 1 pm.Read more

  • Chile Chico

    January 22, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We picked up our bags from the common storage in the ferry and walked out. There was no bus terminal or any information signs. We looked up on Maps.me and found the main plaza of the village around 500 mts away. The bus terminal too was marked there. There were trees laden with peaches all around the square. We didn't waste too much time and were plucking away the ripe fruits from the trees. They were delicious. The bus terminal was right next to the center. We went in, only to find all the counters closed. It was lunch time and there was a board stating that they would open at 4 pm 🙄
    We went around all the counters to see what all destinations they were serving. All of them had boards for only destinations within Chile except one. We decided to wait for that one to open to find put about the price and timing. In the meantime, a lady working at the bus terminal told us that, that company had stopped going to Argentina side for a few months now and that the only option we had was to take a taxi to the border, walk across and take a bus or lift once on the other side. She even offered to call a taxi for us. She told that the price would be about 5000 CLP. The taxi person she called wasn't there and would be available in an hour so we decided to wait an hour and check at the counter as well once it opened. We had our food at the restaurant in the bus terminal. After that we sat waiting for either the taxi to come or the counter to open. In the meantime, Hristo went around and found out from the shops around that taxi was the only way across and it would cost us about 5000 CLP. He also found a money exchange place,where we could exchange Chilen Pesos to Argentinan Pesos. We would need them very soon and we remembered from our earlier experience in Argentina that there was quite a steep charge to withdraw cash in the ATMs in Argentina, so we decided to change our money before we left.
    The counters opened at 4 pm and we asked about the bus to Argentina. We were told that it had stopped a few months ago due to bureaucratic issues and that we would need to take a taxi to near the border, walk across and then take a lift on the other side. She too told us the price would be around 5000 CLP.
    In the meantime, the lady who had called the taxi guy came over and talked with the lady at the counter and then told us that the taxi was available now and that as agreed, the price would be 5000 CLP per person
    We were shocked at gow brazenly she was trying to fleece us. We walked away and went to the money exchange shop. Here, I changed some of my money to Argentinan Pesos. While Melinda was exchanging hers and Hristo was waiting for his turn, Maria was standing outside waiting and keeping an eye on our big bags we had places outside the small shop. Some local men started ganging around her. She didn't feel comfortable so she called Hristo. I too came out and stood nearby and Melinda too came and we made a circle around our bags. Hristo went in to change his currency. Seeing the 3 of us there, the mem dispersed a bit and then went inside the shop and started crowding behind Hristo. I went in to keep an eye on them while Hristo got his money and stored it in the day bag and pockets. Once outside, we saw a taxi parked a few meters away, on the opposite side of the road. We picked up our bags and walked straight to it. The taxi driver told us the peice would be 6000 CLP. We agreed and were happy to leave as soon as we could since now the men had started piling out of the shop and they had seen us all exchange quite some money.
    The Chilean border post was 6 kms away, then a no man's land for 3 kms, then the Argentinan border would start and then another 3 kms would be the Argentinan border post. He could drop us till the Argentina border but we would have to walk after that till the post.
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  • Past the Argentina border post

    January 22, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    It was a hot, sunny walk for 3 kms with our bags along the border road with dry eroded hills on one side and the last chain of the Andes on the other side in Chile. Of course no one would give us a lift to the border post since we could be carrying contraband and they would get into trouble. We walked all the way to the border post and got our entry stamp around 5:20 pm.Read more

  • Los Antiguos, Argentina

    January 22, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    After the border, we didn't have a problem taking a ride since now we were already inside the country. We got a lift in a small electric truck and the driver dropped us right at the bus station in Los Antiguos some 4 kms away. The bus station was decked up for Christmas even a month later 🙄 There was a Christmas tree made of upturned bottles and there were Christmas cutouts and buntings inside the main hall.
    We went around and compared the prices. There were direct buses to El Chalten our intended destination. There were 2 bus operators going there directly. We decided to go with Chaltentravels since they had a combo ticket to El Chalten and an additional one to El Calafate that we could use after as many days as we wanted, all for 1300 ARS. Since we anyways had to go to El Calafate later, this would work out much cheaper as the individual tickets were totalling to 1800 ARS. The bus was at 8 pm which was perfect, since that way we could go to the town and have our food before we left. We walked about 1.5 kms back into the town where the restaurants were. Quite a few houses here were made of wood and were quite artistic. The restaurant where we ate seemed to have a Charlie Chapelin theme and the food was quite good but expensive as we had figured out from our earlier entries in Argentina.
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  • Off to El Chalten

    January 22, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    The food took much longer than what we had expected and we had to literally run back to the bus terminal. At 8 pm, we were back at the bus terminal just when everyone had boarded. We picked up our bags from the counter and took our places in the bus. Ours were the front row seats on the top deck with a perfect view of Patagonian steppe. We left the station at around 8:15 pm. The 1st part of the journey was along the Lago Argentina (the Argentinan part of the Lago General Carrera). The road was along a very flat and plain steppe topography.
    Here we started seeing El Gauchito Gel (red flags with religious sites). These are shrines to Gaucho Gil. Although Gaucho Gil is not an official saint in the church, he is revered throughout the country of Argentina and is a "defacto saint". Gaucho was a deserter of the military who evaded capture for quite some time. During that time, he was a sort of "Robin Hood" figure, robbing from the rich and giving to the poor. When he was eventually captured and sentenced to death, he was hung upside down from a tree. As the executioner was preparing to behead him, Gaucho said, "Don't kill me - my pardon is coming. If you do kill me, your son will be stricken with a deadly illness, and the only way to save him will be to give my body a proper burial."
    As expected, the executioner proceeded with his task and, when he arrived home, discovered that his son was deathly ill. He returned to the site of the execution and buried Gaucho's body. His son was miraculously cured and a legend was born.
    Now, Argentineans have built shrines throughout the country to venerate the memory of Gaucho Gil.

    It is strange how these religious icons are exactly how it is in India. Any small location or tree with red color painted on rocks and red flags becomes a religious site. We had seen them in North Argentina as well but just a few kms away in Chile there's nothing like this anywhere from the North to almost mid South where we had left Chile earlier today.
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  • Sunset and sunrise

    January 23, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ❄️ 3 °C

    At around 9:30 pm, the sun set with beautiful colors in the clouds. The road was still along a flat straight plain. The sun rose at around 5:30 am in a golden glow with beautiful colors in the clouds and the road still was along a flat straight plain. It was as if nothing had changed in the 8 hours we had been traveling.Read more

  • Los Glaciares National Park

    January 23, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Around 7 am we entered the Los Glaciares National Park. El Chalten is a village inside of the National Park. Here we could already see the snow peaks that the town is famous for. Finally a change of scenery!!!Read more

  • Cumbres Nevada Hotel

    January 23, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We had a light breakfast at the restaurant in the bus terminal. After that, Hristo and I went around the town to find a place to stay. We had already looked up the prices in booking.com and had an idea on what to negotiate for. The place was quite a bit more expensive than the other places we had stayed in Chile for bit then Argentina is overall more expensive than Chile. We saw rooms in the shape of cabins, train bogies and all sort of fancy things but finally we decided on Cumbres Nevada with price almost near the lowest we had found on the net. We paid about 2388 ARS for 4 persons per day (an approx of 597 ARS per person per day) for our stay of 4 nights. We got a 2 room set with a private bathroom that was perfect for the 4 of us. The whole search had taken us about 2 hours.Read more

  • El Chalten

    January 23, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    We moved our bags from the bus terminal to the hotel room and then went out to find out the various trek options and what other things we could do. The whole village is very touristic with many wooden hotels and restaurants newly built to cater to the hoards of tourists that come here to trek. Most people working in the hotels and restaurants are from Buenos Aires that have come here to make hay while the sun shines during the summer months. The service is mostly crappy and one has to pay through the nose to have an average meal.
    We had our meal at Ahonikenk restaurant. It has a good ambience but the service was pathetic and they tried to cheat us multiple times. First, they brought Hristo a chicken soup with no chicken in it, then they charged us for 4 plates when we had ordered only 3. Then they messed up the totalling and on pointing that out, took at least 15 min trying to convince us how the total was correct. Eventually, we paid them the correct amount and vowed never to go back there during our stay.
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  • Mirador de los Cóndores trek start

    January 23, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    After the food, we came back to the hotel to take a short nap. The plan was to wake up by 6:30 pm and do the 2 small treks to Mirador de los Cóndores and Mirador le Las Aguilas near El Chalten.

    Miradro de los Cóndores
    Difficulty: Low. They are 20' of walk towards the south of the town, until a hill that gives a panoramic view of the zone.
    By the same road (another 30' away) further south is the Mirador de las Aguilas with views on the other side of the valley towards Viedma Lake.

    We all were so tired that none of us woke at our 6:30 pm alarms except Maria. She woke up and went down to the reception to get better wifi. Hristo woke up around 8 pm and didn't find Maria around and thought we all had left as per our plan of 6:30 pm leaving him behind. He got ready and came running to our room. That woke us up but we were surprised when he asked where Maria was. He too was surprised to see us there and Maria missing 😁😁
    He ran down to the reception and found Maria and they both came back. We figured out what had happened and then stil decided to go for the treks since the sun was not setting till 9:30 pm in these latitudes so we still had about 2 hours of light left.
    The clouds had cleared up from the peaks now and we had a beautiful view of the Fritz Roy massif when we started walking out of the town over the Rio Fritz Roy to the National Park entrance.
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  • Up the Los Cóndores trail

    January 23, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    The sun was going down when we started the trail for the trek to the Los Cóndores mirador trek. We kept a good pace. It was a short trek of 1.5 kms but the elevation difference of about 120 mts made the going a bit slow. The views all around were stunning. We could see the El Chalten village next to the Rio Vuelta on one side and the impressive mountain of Fritz Roy on the other.Read more

  • Mirador de los Cóndores

    January 23, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    After about 30 min at around 9 pm, we reached the viewpoint of "The Condor". The village of El Chalten nestled at the base of the massive Fritz Roy massif in the snaking arms of the Rio Vuelta, looked amazing like in a fairy tale setting. We soaked in the lovely Patagonian views before moving on to the next viewpoint.Read more

  • Trail further South

    January 23, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    From the Condor viewpoint we took the track towards the Las Aguilas (The Eagle) viewpoint. The trail passed through some undulating hills and there were some very interesting varieties of plants that looked very soft and cushiony but were full of thorns and sharp needle like leaves. All along the way, the views were breathtaking.Read more

  • Mirador Las Aguilas

    January 23, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Another 1.5 km away, about 30 min later we reached the Mirador Las Aguilas (The viewpoint of the Eagles). We could see the Rio Vuelta empty itself into the Lake Viedma in the far distance. There were some clouds in the sky and the sun had set. The rays of the setting sun made for some very dramatic colors and patterns in the sky. It was truly the best time to be there and the views were surreal.Read more

  • Sunset in the Los Glaciares NP

    January 23, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We hurried bacl towards the El Chalten since the sun had already set and it was starting to get dark very quickly. The views we had on the way back at truly what the wallpapers are made of. The colors of the sky and the beautiful peaks of Fritz Roy were picture perfect representations of post cards. It was a truly memorable sight.Read more

  • Back at El Chalten

    January 23, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    As the sun went down further, the colors in the sky disappeared but the peaks and the view were still stunning. We even saw a skunk on the trail while walking back. The views of the El Chalten village lights in the beautiful backdrop were mindblowing.
    We reached back to the village around 10:30 pm, totally blown away with what we had seen in the evening. It was worth every penny we were spending.
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  • Dinner at Patagonicus Restaurant

    January 23, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We had our dinner of spinach filled pasta and desserts at the Patagonicus restaurant. It had been a fabulous beginning of the true Patagonian adventure.

  • Fritz Roy trek start

    January 24, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    For the 2nd day in El Chalten, we had planned a longer version of the Fritz Roy trek (also called Lago de Los Tres trek). We had arranged for a drop to a place called El Pillar some 20 kms from El Chalten. We intended to trek from there to the Lago de Los Tres and see the Piedras de Blancas on the way and then return to El Chalten directly.
    We woke up at 6:30 am just as the sun was rising. It was a bit cloudy but by the time our pickup arrived at about 8 am, the sky was much clearer and the Fritz Roy massif was visible. The driver dropped us at the El Pillar at around 8:30 am and we started our trek after that.
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  • Through the forest

    January 24, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    The initial part of the trek was through a forest of tall and old trees. Quite a few had fallen off after having been hollowed from the inside by parasites and then broken by the wind or other natural forces. The trail was more or less quite flat with only slight uphills at some places.Read more

  • Mirador Piedras Blancas

    January 24, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    After almost 5 kms of walk, at around 10:30 am, we reached the beautiful viewpoint of the Piedra Blancas (White Stones). Its a fabulous glacier wall with the emerald Laguna Piedra Blanca below. The view is breathtaking and kept us mesmerized for a while. There was another viewpoint about 100 mts away and then a 3rd one about 1.5 kms away. Slightly different angles to the same place but equally stunning.Read more

  • Joined the main trail

    January 24, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ -2 °C

    About a km from the last viewpoint we reached the trail coming from El Chalten and going to Fritz Roy. From here on, the trail is the same all the way up to the last point. As we started coming to the junction, the Fritz Roy massif and the nearby peaks started appearing in sight again. The trail was very flat in this section with hardly any trees around. There were only small bushes everywhere.Read more