Going home

Aaand another smooth one. Today we crossed the border from Kyrgyzstan to Tajikistan at Sary-Tash.
This border is positioned along the Pamir Highway, the second highest road in the world. The drive from Osh to Sary-Tash was already pretty spectacular. Coming down the Taldik Ashuu (a pass at 3615m) the horizon is lined by one snowcapped peak after the other. Many of them are as high as 5000m+ and that's what we'll drive through!
So today we reach the Kyrgyz border at 2pm after having driven through probably the only valley that doesn't feature a snowcapped peak in the background. It only takes 10minutes to have our passports and Hans checked. The border officers seem to expect that you know the procedures by now as there is little guidance provided. However, it's first driver and car papers, as well as the customs check (in the first building that even features a bed. Smart feature for a border that's open 24/7) and then the passport control right before the exit. Very straight forward.
Then the real challenge starts: the Tajik border is stationed just behind another pass, this time 4215m high. Hans has never driven at this altitude! We've been warned about the road condition, too, but honestly -while there are bad stretches- this is nothing compared to some of the roads we drove on in Mongolia. All in all, nomansland is sort of unspectacular. The only thing worth mentioning is probably the homestay just in front of the pass. I didn't think you were allowed to stay in this territory, but apparently it offered opportunity to this local family. The three kids try to stop us, but as one of them is pointing at us with a serious looking toy rifle, we don't really feel like stopping. Not the right way to make someone feel welcome I guess...
Anyhow, the pass is right in front of us. We start at 3900m so it's not too much altitude to be climbed by getting up the switchbacks. And Hans performs great (even though we do need the first gear for some stretches).
Just after the highest point is reached, we see the Tajik border, no car in front of us but some coming from the other side. We've heard and read different stories about this one, from corrupt officers to swift procedures so we're keenly waiting to see for ourselves. On entry, we're asked to wait in the car until the other party going towards the Kyrgyz side has been processed. Then we walk in the little hut to have our passports and visa checked (Tajikistan has a very easy evisa program but make sure to apply with enough time in advance as processing can take anything from 2-14days). The officer once again isn't impressed by our car registration (just a plain A4 paper), but as it has all the necessary information proceeds anyway. There is no electronic device here, apart from his phone that's playing some sort of Russian hip-hop. All the data is only handwritten into a notebook. In a world so used to having everything registered by a computer, this feels a bit odd, but it's also fairly fast, so no complains.
While he's writing, we explain our route on the world map in the back to the other officers. Heads are nodded in an understanding and not as surprised manner as expected. So many overlanders must pass through here...
Afterwards the car is checked quickly by the same officer (who is just wearing slippers that are at least two sizes too small. No wonder he'd rather get back in the warmth than ask us to open everything). All good here as well and we proceed to the customs Check-Point. Later on we learn that we apparently skipped the narcotics officer, but what do we know, right? At customs there is quite a queue as Mongol rally teams are lining up from the other side. Tom and the officer need a little while to make each other understand that this is where Tom will get the temporary import document but has to pay $25 for it, but it all works out in the end. Note that this officer will check passports and visa again, so simply take all of your documents.
Before we're allowed to move on, there is one more hut to visit, where we need to pay a disinfection fee of 10€. Not sure if this is a valid thing, but the officer assured us that it'll be the last time we'll be asked for money and they filled in official looking papers (without actually disinfecting anything though), so we are happy enough to pay and be on our way.
In total, it took us 2hrs, with 1h being driving through nomansland. Friendly officers, no one trying to take anything from us and no funny questions asked. Welcome to Tajikistan!Read more