Turkiet
Bornova Parkı

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    • Dag 20

      Bornova: Arkas Sanat @ Mattheys Köşkü

      22 september 2023, Turkiet ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

      Our final museum today was Arkas Sanat [Arkas Art], a museum founded by the same Levantine family I mentioned in the previous footprint.

      The museum, housed in the Mattheys Mansion — a historic Levantine home dating back to 1780 — was definitely the jewel in the crown of today’s museums … even before we entered the mansion to enjoy the exhibit of carpets inside. Our joy in this visit was compounded by the beautifully restored mansion and the manicured grounds … which, Aylin assured me, are even more eye-catching in the spring when all the flowers are in bloom.

      The mansion has a rich history of hosting many important figures. One anecdote related by the former owners of the mansion is that it was used by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of modern Türkiye, as a meeting place for strategizing the next steps in the country’s War of Independence.

      Entering through the gate onto the property, we were immediately wowed by the scene that greeted our eyes … a gravel path lined with trees … the “prestige entrance” of the pale pink mansion beckoning us to walk that way immediately.

      But no, we were first directed to a small building off to the side, where we purchased our admission (under $2pp at today’s exchange rate … half that for seniors 65+). Then, we walked through a short covered gallery where a timeline printed on the wall explained the history of the mansion. A few minutes to study the timeline, and then we stepped out to view the grand gardenscape in which scale models of some of the historic Levantine mansions of Bornova are displayed.

      But exploring the gardens and the models took a backseat for a moment. By this time, we were all hungry and couldn’t resist the siren call of the delicious pastries at Léone … a patisserie and boulangerie.

      Once our tummies were sated, we wandered the grounds before entering the mansion to view the amazing collection of carpets inside. But that part of our visit will just have to wait until the next footprint.
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    • Dag 20

      Bornova: Arkas Sanat … Carpets Galore

      22 september 2023, Turkiet ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

      The Arkas collection of carpets is world renowned. As the website states, it brings “… together rare examples of Anatolian Carpets of the Classical Period, Anatolian Tribal Carpets, Ottoman Palace Carpets, and European Tapestries. …”

      We saw some of these beautiful carpets, including the tapestries, at Arkas Sanat Urla last year. Today, after strolling the grounds of the former Mattheys Mansion — now the home of Arkas Sanat Bornova — our eyes feasted on Anatolian carpets hand-woven between the 16th and 19th centuries … primarily in the western and central regions of Türkiye.

      That the Arkas family have gone all out to share their wealth of art and cultural artifacts with the people of — and visitors to — Türkiye goes without saying. Arkas Sanat Bornova is an excellent addition to the series of museums the family has founded … one that we enjoyed tremendously today.
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    • Dag 20

      Bornova: EÜ Ethnography Museum

      22 september 2023, Turkiet ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

      This morning, the three siblings and Mui met up at the Lozan entrance to Kültürpark. Not to explore it, mind you. Rather, we would be using the park as a shortcut to get to the Basmane District, from where we hopped on the metro to Bornova, another district of İzmir.

      On our agenda were three different museums. But before we got where we planned to go, a sign pointing to the Ege University Ethnography Museum caused us to make a detour. None of us knew this museum, founded under the auspices of the university, even existed. It turned out to be a hidden gem.

      The museum is housed in a stone house that dates back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Known as the Sirkehane [vinegar factory], the original owners of the house are unknown. The indoor well, apparently a known feature of the Levantine homes of the time, points to it likely being owned by a Levantine family. In any event, because the owners could not be identified, the property was taken over by the National Treasury in 1943. After being used for a variety of purposes, it was given to the university and eventually restored as the museum that we visited today,

      The items on display are housed in two separate buildings. In the main building (the house) is a collection of traditional costumes and accessories from Anatolia, Thrace, and the Balkan countries. Also in this building is the kitchen that would have been used back in the day by the family who lived in the house.

      In another section of the house, are the “wedding house” exhibits. One room features the traditional pre-wedding henna ceremony. Another room features the documenting of the dowry. As the young woman who works at the museum explained, it was tradition to make a list of every item the bride brought with her and the wedding gifts … complete with valuation of the items. In the event of the dissolution of the marriage due to death or other reasons, the documented items would then be returned to the woman. Very forward thinking considering the times.

      The second building held a collection of musical instruments from Türkiye as well as from around the world. We also found a number of small rooms on the perimeter of the courtyard where dioramas represented traditional industries, such as shoe making, tailoring, copper and tin working.

      We all enjoyed our whirlwind visit to the museum. My only complaint? The glass cases in which almost everything was displayed. You’ll notice the glare in the photos that accompany this footprint. Taking photos was challenging and, after a while, I gave up. I understand that the cases are essential for protecting the items. That doesn’t mean I have to like them.

      All that said, a brochure we picked up at the Ethnography Museum lists 14 museums under the auspices of Ege University. Not sure if we will be able to visit them all, however. Time will tell!
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    • Dag 20

      Bornova: Pagy Köşkü

      22 september 2023, Turkiet ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

      From the Ege University Ethnography Museum, the siblings & Mui headed to the 19th century Pagy Köşkü (PagyMansion) … now Bayetav Art.

      Once the home of prominent Levantine families, today the building hosts art exhibits under the auspices of BAYETAV, an organization whose full name translates as “We Live Together - Education and Social Research Foundation.”

      The signage on the grounds describes the place as “… a space of encounter aimed at bringing together creations of various disciplines and contributing to the strengthening of social, cultural, and urban memory. …” It is the foundation’s intent to host “… various exhibitions and events in the fields of culture, art and design with a view to promote ways of living together and creating a new space for research and expression.”

      Unfortunately for us, we missed the “Ode to Earth” Exhibit that apparently ended barely a week ago, so there wasn’t much to see. Nonetheless, a few things caught our eye as we did a quick wander inside the mansion.

      [P.S. For those unfamiliar with the word Levantine … this is a term that pertains to the Levant, the region centered around modern Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Palestine, and Jordan. It was an important region of the Ottoman Empire. In Türkiye, the term refers to the descendants of Europeans who settled in the coastal cities of the Ottoman Empire for trading purposes. (Some consider it a derogatory term, though that is rarely the case. It is widely used to describe a group of people who had considerable influence on the development of a specific culture in the Western Mediterranean Region.]
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    • Dag 20

      Bornova: Arkas Maritime History Center

      22 september 2023, Turkiet ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

      From Pagy Köşkü, we retraced our steps back down the street to another mansion dating back to the 1800s. Our destination was the Arkas Maritime History Center … which, the sign at the door promoted as the place where “… witnesses to centuries of maritime heritage are brought to life …”. An apt description.

      The museum was founded by Lucien Arkas, whose family’s Levantine roots in İzmir go very deep. Having visited several other museums founded by the family, I knew we were more than likely in for a treat. We were not disappointed.

      The founder’s message tells how years ago Lucien Arkas was so impressed by a ship’s model of HMS Victory (by Engin Alsan) that he ordered his first ship model. That started him on his quest for all things maritime … a collection over 30 years in the making. The items on display cover a period from 1000 B.C. to the present day, comprising wide and varied models of legendary ships, nautical objects, and canvases by Turkish and international painters.

      Once again, the glare from the glass display cases caused me to minimize my shutter clicks, but it was an otherwise wonderful museum to visit. Highly recommended … especially to aficionados of maritime history.
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