• Port to Charters Towers

    5. maj 2019, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    It’s a magnificent morning in Port Douglas. The sky is vivid blue and the sun is beaming as we prepare to head off on the start of another adventure. We have 5 days to do the 3.000km from Port Douglas to Darwin. Our first stop is Cairns Airport as we drop Jaime off to return to Melbourne.

    DRIVE: Port Douglas to Charter Towers (546km)

    Skirting around Cairns again, we pass “Walshies Pyramid” and it’s truly an honour that the locals named the mountain top in recognition of our Walshies Down Under Adventure. Walshies Pyramid hosts an annual 6km hike/run to the top and back.

    There are a number of routes you can take to get across from FNQ, Far North Queensland coastline to Darwin. The. Savannah Way is the most scenic and famous but sections are unsealed and prone to flooding. We opt to retrace our footprints back down to Townsville and cut inland on the A6, Flinders Way (The Overlanders) to a small mining town called Charters Towers.

    The Main Street of Charters Towers is full of heritage buildings from the 1880’s. As often the case, there’s a pub/hotel on every corner and the Town Hall and the Bank display Victorian architecture at its finest showing that historically the town was a thriving and prosperous place to settle.

    The town was founded in the 1870s when gold was discovered by chance at Towers Hill on Christmas Eve 1871 by 12-year-old Aboriginal boy. The name Charters Towers comes from the conical shaped hills in the vicinity of the gold discoveries.

    Prospectors settled the land on the promise of making their fortunes digging and mining for gold and a gold rush began.

    Now as an advertiser and entrepreneur, I know that when gold is mentioned, men stop at nothing to seek their fortune but few men did. Some of the folk who made good money from the gold rush made and sold the gold pans and other equipment. After all, when panning for gold, you need a pan to do it and one of the secrets to advertising is “always sell a promise” or in simple terms, “hope”.

    Such were the boom years, between 1872 and 1899, that Charters Towers hosted its own stock exchange. The Great Northern railway between Charters Towers and the coastal port of Townsville was completed in December 1882.. During this period, the population was approximately 30,000.

    The city was also affectionately known as 'The World' as it was said that anything one might desire could be had in the 'Towers', leaving no reason to travel elsewhere.
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  • A Crocodile Encounter at Choo Choos Cafe

    4. maj 2019, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Alright, it’s not a big crocodile (maybe a wallet size, not handbag) but where there’s a junior, mum is usually not too far away.

    It’s Jaime’s choice for activity for the day and she chooses bike riding. We have two retro bikes up here and also our mountain bikes from our trip. The girls go retro. We follow Davidson Street, the Main Street into town and ride along a scenic bike path, past the old cemetery, following the sugar cane railway track.

    The railway starts at the Marina at a cafe/restaurant named Choo Choos and ends at Choo Choos, St Crispins Station about 4km away. Originally, the narrow gauge track hauled sugar cane to Mossman. The track still exist and remains linked to the many sugar cane tracks which are still in use along the Captain Cook Hwy.

    St Crispins is very picturesque, surrounded by a billabong on one side overlooking The Mirage golf course and the railway platform on the other with an old turn table at the end of the line.

    The train and railway journey is called Bally Hooley and popular during the peak seasons. We have ridden the train a number of times on the Bally Hooley steam locomotive.

    We sit in the cafe with iced coffee and chocolate and I notice the crocodile below in the billabong. It sits still on top of the water with an ever so slight movement of its tail, then after a while, disappears without a ripple.

    We return on a bike path which follows dense mangroves, past Port Douglas Yacht Club and ending up at the Marina.

    Later in the day, myself and Jaime walk 4 mile beach and follow the pathway from the beach leading to The Sheraton Mirage. Built by Christopher Skase in the 80s, this hotel/resort put Port Douglas on the map and was a favourite place for American Presidents and celebrities to stay at. The property was neglected a bit in the early 2000s as the tourism industry went flat. However, it’s great to see that investment has gone in and the resort is back to its former glory. The lagoon pools are stunning.
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  • Ellen Thomson - Hung for MURDER?

    2. maj 2019, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    It is eight o’clock on the morning of the 13th of June 1887...

    A slight grey haired woman stands on the gallows in Brisbane Jail, crucifix clasped in her hand. When the gruesome public execution was done, Ellen Thomson had earned an unenviable niche in criminal legal history - the only woman ever hanged in Queensland.

    Ellen Thomson, alongside her alleged partner in crime, John Harrison had been found guilty of killing Ellen’s husband, William Thomson... but it’s not a clear cut case!

    To explore the case further, we get on our bikes and pop to the The Court House Museum in Port Douglas and pay our $2.00 donation. Norman, an old, slim but spritely gentleman greets us and shows us around The Court House explaining in detail the story behind the case and the controversy that surrounds it. We found ourselves seated in the jury (not sure why we are smiling), as we make a verdict on the case. We find the accused ___ your honour.

    In 1878, Ellen came to Port Douglas and obtained work as a housekeeper to William (Billy) Thomson. Not long after, Ellen gave birth to a daughter, Helen (Nell) whom Billy believed to be be his child.

    On 3rd November 1880, Ellen then 36 years of age married William, 57.

    Short tempered, Billy was a cantankerous old man and tough on his family. He harboured a special resentment of the Chinese tenant farmers feuding over use of his land.

    In October 1886, John Harrison, deserter from the ship “Myrmidon” moved into an adjoining farming property and soon became the focus of Billy’s anger and suspicions. One evening on Thomson’s verandah, tempers flare and Billy declares “if you don’t get off my property I will shoot you”. Ellen, alarmed cries out “Jack (John), look out, Billy has got a revolver and he might use it...”

    Now early in the evening of 22nd October 1886, Harrison left his Hut to find work at the Seven Mile. By 9.00pm, he returned saying it came over too dark to walk. He throws down his swag and sleeps on the floor.

    Ten o’clock, Ellen is wakened by a shot and the sounds of a fall from the outhouse where Billy slept. She runs for help to the nearest white Man, Marshall and returns with Marshall and Harrison. Ellen did not enter the outhouse herself and kept distance but Marshall and Harrison enter to find Billy barely alive, a revolver beside his body. Without proper medical aid, they watch and wait and Billy dies without a word.

    At first light, Harrison rides to Port Douglas police station and to Billy’s brother saying that Billy had accidentally shot himself or likely committed suicide.

    On examination of the body, Dr Marley pronounced, “I found two bullet wounds, one through each temple in a straight line. I should undoubtedly say that one bullet inflicted the two wounds”. As cause of death was pronounced as suicide, William Thomson was interred at Port Douglas cemetery on 24th October 1886.

    Harrison stays on, engaged by Ellen to work on the farm but around the small community, stories are whispered, rumours are rife...

    On 6th January 1887, the police take action and apprehend Ellen Thomson and John Harrison and bring them before the court in Port Douglas. The warrant “they did feloniously, wilfully and of malice aforethought kill and murder one William Thomson”.

    Witnesses come forward from the Chinese community, their testimonies convincing but inconsistent and dubious.

    Ah Loy, a Chinese gardener went up to Thomson’s to get a drink of water in the kitchen on the day of his shooting. He declares on oath by the blowing out of a candle that he saw the accused, Ellen and John dancing together in the dining room. Shortly after at 4.30pm, the Chinese witness further stated that he saw and passed Mr Thomson on the road home and that he was of sober mind. Ellen protested saying that the chinese witness had fabricated the story for a 100 pound fee.

    Ah Chune, a Chinese cook and fisherman declares that he also saw Mr Thomson at 4 or 5 in the afternoon and at 8.00 o’clock that night (not 10 o’clock as Ellen had stated), he heard not one but TWO gun shots about 4-5 minutes apart...

    Marshall is called to be questioned and states that the prisoner, Ellen made no attempt to go to her husband after the shooting and she was perfectly cool and non-emotional.

    Ah Loy is recalled and questioned. He adds to his story and says, “on the day I called at Thomson’s, it was past one or two. I saw Mrs Thomson and the male prisoner, they were in the bedroom in bed together”.

    The weight of evidence even though suspect and conflicting provides TWO gun shots and a strong motive for murder. This convinces the Magistrate to order the body of William Thomson to be exhumed.

    A post mortem was conducted. On further examination of the skull which had been shattered on top with a bullet hole in the left temple and another in a bone on the right side, the examiner believed that one bullet came out of the right side. The examiner further groped around in the skull and duly found a second bullet....!

    “I shall be of the opinion that a second shot was fired in the same hole as the first. A person having inflicted one wound in his head (suicide) would not be able to inflict another”.

    The Magistrate announces “The prisoners are committed to take their trial in the Supreme Court, Townsville on 27th April 1887”.

    Mr Justice Pope Cooper considered the Chinese reliable witnesses. Further, he states that Mrs Thomson and Harrison lived on improper terms and it was shown that she was to profit by, and not until, Thomson’s death.

    The Judge charges the jury “However painful your duty, you must find the prisoners GUILTY”.

    After two and one half hours, the jury returned a guilty verdict and Ellen, now found guilty of murder breaks down into an impassioned, enunciated harangue for nearly an hour.

    Ellen vehemently denies any Involvement in the death of her husband but her fate was sealed.

    The accused murderers were sentenced to death by hanging and moved to H.M. Gail Brisbane.

    On 13th June 1887, hours before the executions, John Harrison confessed to his priest that during a quarrel and struggle with Billy Thomson, Billy turned the gun on himself. Ellen had no part in the killing. When urged to delay the hangings, the Under Sheriff replies “no it’s too late, the executions must move forward”. John was hung 20 minutes after Ellen.

    EPILOGUE

    As the hands of the clock crept nearer to the fatal hour, Ellen Thomson crosses the yard with the Rev. Father Fouhy, their voices heard in solemn earnest prayer. In a neat black dress, hair combed back from her face, crucifix clapped to her breast, her comely appearance excited sympathy in the gathering.

    At his post, calm and steady, stood the grim hangman.

    And then the great bell tolled forth.

    Ellen Thomson was conducted to the scaffold from which hung the ominous rope. As the fatal white cap was placed upon her head she repeated prayers read by Fr. Fouhy. In accent calm and wonderful clear, she spoke for the last time...

    “May heaven bless my children. I never shot my husband. I never harmed anybody. I am innocent. I will die like an injured angel”.

    The massive trapdoor groaned... and... DROPPED!

    Was Ellen Thomson, wife to William Thomson and close acquaintance to John Harrison guilty as tried or innocent of the murder of her husband?

    Who done it, you decide...
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  • Take a Walk Around Port

    30. april 2019, Australien ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    At the northern end of 4 mile beach, closest to town is a walking track around the headland of Port Douglas. The walking track starts with steep steps to a lookout point with magnificent views of 4 mile beach and beyond. A viewing platform juts our over the precipes hanging in mid air. On a clear day you can see The Low Isles in the distance and the lighthouse.

    The walking track was opened in March 2018 and I had walked it back then but soon after, a big tropical storm washed away sections and caused landslides. The track recently reopened at Easter and it a great leisurely stroll from the beach to Harbourside or visa versa.

    From the Harbourside end, there is a grassy point surrounded by tall coconut palm trees, our favourite place to watch sunset looking towards Mossman with a glass of wine and some tasty cheese.

    Immaculately restored on its original location, The Court House Museum documents the fascinating history of Port Douglas. We meet Norman, a senior volunteer who shares his history and knowledge about Port.

    On Sundays, across the road from The Court House Hotel, the area is host to a local market offering arts & crafts, jewellery, exotic fruits, local produce and food stalls. Jaime loves the fresh coconut stall and of course, I love the local rainforest coffee stall.

    At Wharf Street, St Mary’s By The Sea Church built from 1913-1914 and the Port Douglas Sugar Wharf built in 1905. stand as prominent reminders of Port’s history. St Mary's is a heritage-listed non-denominational church (formerly a Roman Catholic Church) . Both venues are popular places for weddings.

    Macrossan Street itself is the hub of the town and has an eclectic and lively mix of boutique shops, bars, cafes and restaurants. It’s where the locals and tourists mingle and its heritage buildings (mainly the pubs) are well preserved. The Central Hotel is most popular with the locals and a hub of activity when the footie is on the big screen.

    The village has a laid back, unassuming but sophisticated vibe that doesn’t feel overly touristy and the local culture and way of life up here are preserved and indeed the main attraction. It’s an escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

    Jen & Jaime’s favourite place is Capanina Ice Cream bar and Gelateria. Made the traditional Italian way, It’s simply the best ice cream in town and they change flavours regularly. Heaven forbid if they don’t put chocolate on the menu.

    We walk up to the Marina where the yachts and huge catermarans are moored and the starting point for access to The Great Barrier Reef. Quicksilver have been running tours from Port Douglas since the 1980’s and have recently built a Dive School and Dive Pool up here. Stretching over 2,300km the Great Barrier Reef is remarkable for its beauty. Agincourt Reef is on the very outer edge of the reef. Here, special reefs known as ‘ribbons’ run parallel to the Continental Shelf and are recognised as the most pristine eco-systems in the reef’s environment.

    In between dive tours or just to chill, a great place to have a beer is Hemingway’s Brewery on the Mariner and if you fancy lounging with a cocktail, it’s Barbados, another of Jen and Jaime’s hideouts.

    The Marina has been purchased by Ghassan Aboud, an Arab investor and its new title is The Crystalbrook Super Yacht Marina. The plans have just been released for the development which involves a $200 million investment in a 6 Star resort and Hotel including an extension of the Mariner to entertain large Super Yachts.

    The locals seem ok with the development as it will create jobs. The old Marina will be demolished and the new one is due for completion in 2022 and bring a renewal to Port Douglas whilst preserving its heritage feel.

    As we return up Mowbray Street to Cayman Villas, we pass Chillies Bar & Restaurant. It’s our favourite place to eat and the wood fired pizza is the best in town. Chillies is laid back with an outdoor bar, fairy lights and oil lamps creating ambience and chill out reggae music playing for mood. Close your eyes and you could be in the Caribbean.
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  • Cayman Villas Port Douglas

    29. april 2019, Australien ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Ok, I set my drone to work to capture some footage of Cayman Villas for the website. See the videos that I created. Our Villa, No: 22 is on the 1st/middle level corner overlooking the pool, directly in front as the drone enters the pool area...

    1. Welcome / Entrance
    2. Infinity Pool and Villas

    LUXURY APARTMENTS & VILLAS
    www.caymanvillas.com.au

    Set amongst lush tropical gardens and horizon pool, Cayman Villas Port Douglas offers families, couples and discerning business traveller’s modern and spacious apartments ideal for a relaxing holiday or a romantic getaway. Located within walking distance from the famous Four Mile Beach and the cosmopolitan town centre of Port Douglas, Cayman Villa’s offer newly refurbished contemporary one, two and three bedroom, fully self contained spacious 4 ½ star apartments.

    There you have it. If you are interested in staying in the off season, you can contact me direct on 0409133559 to check availability and mates rates...
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  • Port Douglas & The Possum Returns

    28. april 2019, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We timed our pack up of the campervan to perfection this morning at Mission Beach as moments after, the heavens opened up and we had tropical rain for our drive up the coast.

    DRIVE: Mission Beach to Port Douglas via Cairns Airport (203km).

    A FIFO is arriving today. For those overseas who may be unsure what FIFO stands for, its Fly In, Fly Out. It generally refers to remote station mining workers who do shifts away from home so they fly in and fly out.

    The FIFO arriving today from Melbourne to Cairns Airport is our beloved Jaime. Cairns Airport is on our way through to Port Douglas so we get there in time to grab a coffee and wait for possum to land and come through customs. It’s so good to catch up as we miss her and have been on the road for a while now. Jaime will be with us in PD for the week.

    We are looking forward to finally reaching Port Douglas to stay a week at our villa. We have a lovely 3 bedroom apartment at Cayman Villas on Mowbray Street, PD. It’s in a great spot too being 400m to 4 mile beach, 400m to the marina and a stones throw to the Macrossan Street and my favourite coffee hang outs.

    The 50 minute drive up to Port Douglas on the Captain Cook Highway, State Route 44 is one of the most scenic drives in Australia. It hugs the coral coastline with palm lined beaches on one side and mountain tops with tropical rainforests all the way to the shore on the other. It’s especially fun this time round as this is the last drive on our East Coast Trip and we finally get to drive our Victorian number plates up to Port Douglas. Yeah!

    We are greeted by Lee and Bryce, who manage Cayman Villas. I store the campervan and car in the underground car park and we quickly settle in to our villa with crisp white sheets and clean linen. I think it’s well deserved as we have been on the road for 70+ days now. Jen is looking forward to the rest.

    On Sundays, theres a live band playing at The Court House Hotel, one of our favourite hang outs in Port Douglas.. So we dress up “thongs, T-shirt and shorts”, and walk Port’s Main Street to the hotel on the corner of Macrossan Street and Wharf Street, overlooking Anzac Park and the harbour. It’s just before sunset so as usual, hundreds of birds are chirping in the trees as they settle in for the night.

    Built in 1878, “The Courty” as it has become affectionately known, is the oldest pub in Port Douglas and one of the most iconic pubs in Australia. It has a magnificent heritage Queenslander façade and wide open verandas. It’s the perfect place to sit with a crisp tall glass of Peroni as the sunlight fades over the harbour.

    Jaime can’t resist a good steak and myself and Jen enjoy a seafood curry.
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  • You Can Skydive onto Mission Beach

    27. april 2019, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Ok, so today there’s not much happening in the tropics and it’s a real lazy day. We are excited though as tomorrow we drive up to Cairns, pick Jaime up from the airport and drive up to our villa in Port Douglas for a week of R&R.

    I drive over to the Mission Beach village to watch the skydivers descend from the blue skies above and land on the beach in perfect succession. People pay good money for this, usually backpackers looking for a thrill as they go tandem with their instructor. The skydivers race down towards the palm trees and then do a sweeping turn into the wind, slow themselves down and gently land on the beach next to a big red flag.

    Watch videos if you are keen to give it a go one day.
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  • A Short History of Mission Beach

    26. april 2019, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Mission Beach is a beautiful 14km stretch of coconut palm tree lined beach on the Coral Coast, 139km South of Cairns. It lies within the Cassowary Coast region of Queensland.

    Prior to the arrival of Europeans the area was occupied by people from the Djiru Aboriginal language group.

    Lt. James Cook passed these shores on 9th June 1770 and named Dunk Island off the coast of Mission Beach after the Earl of Halifax, George Montague Dunk. However, the area was first explored by Edmund Kennedy and his party who landed just to the south of Mission Beach in 1848.

    In 1872 it was alleged by two sailors (Wilson and Sullivan), that the captain (Stratman) and some of the crew of the ill-fated Maria which was wrecked in a "typhoon", were killed and eaten by natives north of Tam O'Shanter Point, a headland located on South Mission Beach.

    The first white settlers, the Cutten brothers, arrived in 1882 and established crops including coffee, mangoes, coconuts and bananas.

    Mission Beach was named after the Hull River Mission, an Aboriginal mission which was set up at South Mission Beach by the Queensland government in 1914 to house the remainder of the local indigenous population. In 1918 the mission was destroyed and lives were lost when a cyclone ripped through the area.

    Skip a few years and by the 1980s Mission Beach had become an important tourist destination. On 20th March 2006, Cyclone Larry caused extensive damage to the town and on 3rd February 2011, Cyclone Yasi destroyed much of the town. It had wind gusts of 290 km/hr and Dunk Island took the brunt of it.
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  • Face to Face with A Cassowary

    25. april 2019, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    It’s so nice to be back in our campervan. For one, my Nespresso coffee machine has missed me and we had a comfortable sleep last night even though it poured outside with tropical rain.

    We set about cleaning everything in site. Jen does basket loads of sodden, smelly clothes washing whilst I pack away all the camping gear and give the campervan a good clean.

    It feels good to have some pleasantries and I find hidden away in the fridge freezer a couple of hot cross buns left over from Easter.

    The caravan park is right on South Mission Beach with views out to Dunk Island. It’s quiet as all the Easter campers have gone home.

    A large impressive Cassowary comes visiting from the bush land surrounding the caravan park. We had been told to watch out for them as the Mission Beach area is a Cassowary sanctuary.

    The Cassowary seems unfazed and used to campers as it scouts the camp site looking for food. In the wild, they can be aggressive so it’s good advice to just smile, be nice and stay well clear of its dagger like claws. It takes an attraction to the black body work of our car as it can see its own reflection so I bravely move in between it and the Kluger and direct the Cassowary away. It seems relaxed enough and moves quietly on without any resistance.

    The Cassowary is common to New Guinea and tropical Australia. As a flightless bird, It stands as tall a man and has a distinct blue face and a ridge atop its head.

    News just in... 53 minutes ago.

    “A Cassowary bird native to Australia will be auctioned off, after killing its owner earlier this month”.

    Well that says it all. Smile, be nice and stay well clear. It’s amazing how many animals from this land are extremely dangerous and even predatorial.; Snakes, Spiders, Crocodiles, Sharks, Jelly Fish and now we add the Cassowary to the list.

    Even a Wombat got into our tent a few years ago and stole our loaf of bread. It made a big hole in the tent so that’s predatorial enough for me...

    We drive from South Mission Beach to Mission Beach Village and esplanade. Mission beach is a series of coastal villages with a bohemian mix of local beach houses, cafes/shops, tourist accommodation, backpacker facilities and caravan parks.

    It’s quiet, laid back and tropical so just the place for us to recover for a few days.

    Today is Anzac Day so we have set up big TV and tuned into the Anzac Day AFL game, Collingwood v Essendon. Jen is barracking hard and for those from overseas who are not sure what that means, she shouts loudly at her team Collingwood especially if they do something wrong.

    Go Pies!

    We stroll up to the Mission Beach surf club and find a seat at their restaurant called Tuskers.

    The restaurant has been recently voted the best chips in far North Queensland. As we are desperate to replenish our protein levels, we order the award winning chips with succulent steak and red wine jus. The steak was huge and at the end, nothing was left on the plate. They are generally open Fri, Sat & Sun plus public holidays.
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  • Hinchenbrook Island Hike Day 4

    24. april 2019, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Yeah, we have made it to day 4 but it has taken some effort as we are tired, sore and bitten.

    All our equipment is wet but we are in no rush this morning and calmly dry things of as best we can and pack up camp.

    Alone, we take a skinny dip in Mulligan Falls and find our remaining fresh clothes to put on. It’s a 7.5 km hike down to George Point with 5km of it on the beach. The going is much easier and our pace is good as we need to cross the tidal creek before high tide kicks in this morning. We check the creek out and knee deep, take the shortest route across. Jen is startled by a fish and we joke that surely we can’t get eaten by a croc so close to the finishing line.

    I get mobile reception and txt John for an 11.30am pick up at Mulligan Bay camping area. The last part is always a drag and the finishing line can not come soon enough. We see Lucinda across the shore and the 5.7km long jetty which carries sugar cane to be loaded onto ships. Our shoulders are sore from carrying heavy packs so we stop and rest for 5 minutes. I pull my pack back on, take 5 awkward steps and spot the George Point sign on the corner of the bay, less than 20m away. We had stoped 31.88km into our 32km hike and salvation was just a few small steps for mankind...

    We laugh and celebrate survival, relieved that we have finally made it and our bodies can have a rest. “I’m not a celebrity, get me out of here” says Jen which kind of sums up how we feel even though we are elated to have completed the torturous hike on Hinchenbrook Island. We stretch out our backs on a lonely picnic bench etched with the names and dates of those before us or maybe in memory of those who never made it... Soon our ferry boat arrives and picks us up to transfer to... what another island.... aahh, it’s the island called ‘Australia’. Awe sweet!!

    DRIVE: Lucinda to Mission Beach via Cardwell (128km).

    After a much needed shower at the Lucinda caravan park, we collect our car and campervan and head up the coast to Mission Beach, stopping at Cardwell for a crab burger.

    CAMP: Big 4 Beachcomber Holiday Park, South Mission Beach.
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  • Hinchenbrook Island Hike Day 3

    23. april 2019, Australien ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    We eat more food rations for breakfast and try to lighten the load by offering fruit to Hannah and Nicki but they are on to our tactics.

    Zoe Bay is a popular camping spot as there’s direct access by boat and its a short trek up to the top of Zoe Falls.. That’s our first destination for the day as we start the 7.5km hike to Mulligan Falls and our next camp..

    We drop our packs at the base of Zoe Falls next to the girl’s who had gone ahead and follow a track to climb to the top. It’s quite steep and one section has a notched climbing rope to pull yourself up on.

    Reaching the top, we are rewarded with the most amazing view of the island towards Zoe Bay. Plunge pools cascade over granite slabs and dive over the edge of the falls and we are soon sitting in a fresh water spa on the very lip of Zoe Falls.

    Moments in life make everything else worth while and this is one of them.

    Invigorated and re-enthused, we happily descend to the base by a slightly different track and realise that this track has an orange triangle on it.... oh no, we were meant to carry our packs up and over the falls. After a 2nd assent this time with the burden of weight, I suggest that we wipe our memory as if this was the first and only climb to the top today. Doh!

    Continuing along South Zoe Creek, the trail occasionally crosses narrow rocky tributaries. It then follows a distinct spur to the granite rock pavement of a saddle. We are soon engulfed in misty rain as we reach 260 m above the sea, the highest point on the trail. On a clear day the picturesque views include the Palm Island Group and Magnetic Island to the south. The misty rain at least keeps us cool and we stop to put our weather protectors on our hiking packs. The terrain is still difficult, our legs are aching but progress is more assured and we plod on.

    Reaching Diamantina creek which is wide and rocky and known to flood regularly, we rock hop, then decide to take the safest route across a fast flowing channel and get our feet wet.

    From here, the terrain takes a steady incline to open fern and grassy areas until it winds its way down to Mulligan Falls and our camp for the night.

    Mulligan Falls has a deep plunge pool at the base of a rapidly moving water fall. Its another opportunity to swim and refresh.

    Hannah and Nickie have “an escape from this island”” card and had pre arranged to get a boat transfer from Mulligan Bay this afternoon. So bon voyage to our great companions as we settle in to a night alone at Mulligan Falls.

    Freeze dried Coq Au Vin for dinner tonight with creamy mash so it went down a treat. Feeling a bit more up beat, we retire to the tent knowing we have one more morning to go.

    The rain pours throughout the night and it always sounds louder and more ferocious hitting the outside of the tent. It’s still warm though and those bloody mozzies or midgies. Whatever they are, they are annoying and no amount of mozzie spray has stopped them from feasting on our skin.
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  • Hinchenbrook Island Hike Day 2

    22. april 2019, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    It’s 6.00am and the daylight streams through the rainforest as a wake up call. We have to cross the tidal river on Little Ramsay Bay before 7.30am so we take John’s advice from Absolute North Charters and pack up before breakfast to make headway into day 2.

    Feeling a little recovered from yesterday, we check our hiking notes on the app. and start today’s 10.5km hike from Little Ramsay Bay to Zoe Bay., estimated to take 6 hours.

    We pass a camp site on the opposite side of the tidal crossing and see Nickie’s hiking shoes drying on a line but no sign of the girls or their tent. Jen calls out but no answer so we continue on assuming they are tucked away sound asleep. We later find out that they didn’t really sleep much and had moved their tent further into the rainforest away from the beach as they had crocodiles on their mind all night long.

    It’s 8.30am and the heat and humidity is already uncomfortable as we rock hop some more. From the southern end of the beach the trail heads south-easterly through a small gully to the top of a ridge. It’s already hard going uphill so we stop for breakfast and a rest at a stunning waterfall.

    Jen is still sore from yesterday’s trip and enthusiasm is down a bit but we have to crack on one step at a time to avoid the midday heat. We refill some water bottles and load up the packs.

    The trail continues south, descending to the Banksia Creek crossing on to the saddle between Banksia and Zoe bays, then into the Zoe Bay Catchment. Each creek crossing is difficult to navigate with fast running water and slippy boulders on foot. I take my pack across this crossing then take Jens’s so she can just focus on getting herself across. It’s always difficult to find the exit point on the other side where the hiking trail continues and we wearily search for the orange triangle marker pointing us in the right direction. These orange triangles are our lifeline as the pathway is rough, not clear or well defined.

    We pass through a succession of vegetation types, from dry open forest to rainforest and mangrove swamps. The going is slow and heavy (trudging) with many undulations in the landscape and wet on foot. At this point Jen gets snagged by a rainforest creeper with jagged teeth and struggles to get free. “Get me off this f... island” is the response so we rest for a while, have a drink of water and some chocolate and being half way, assess our next steps. It must get easier.

    After some rest, we move on and immediately hit a clearing that is shin deep in dark, murky swampy water without any clear direction. This is worse. We are literally walking through a smelly swamp plain not unlike Frodo, Sam and Gollum in Lord of the Rings on their way to middle earth. This is a test of resilience so we slowly plough on.

    We find dry ground for 100 metres then pass through several disorienting water logged palm swamps in tall rainforest between North Zoe Creek and Fan Palm. I was focussed on not getting lost and Jen was watching her tired feet with every step.

    Difficulty shall pass and eventually we are heartened to see the sunlight beaming into the rainforests and the magnificent sound of waves hitting the shoreline. We have finally reached the clearing at the Southern end of Zoe Bay and we follow the beach like 2 drunken sailors the last few hundred metres to the campsite.

    It’s such a relief to take our hiking packs and our sodden shoes and socks off. We both agree, that was the hardest 10.5km worth of hiking foot steps we have ever taken. We are still standing and have made it through a most difficult test through rugged unforgiving wilderness.

    We set up camp and our spirits are lifted as Hannah and Nickie arrive safely a couple of hours later. Our team reward for effort is a short walk to the base of Zoe Falls and a dip in the refreshing clear water pools of South Zoe creek.
    Læs mere

  • Hinchenbrook Island Hike Day 1

    21. april 2019, Great Barrier Reef ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Today is the start of our Hinchenbrook Island 4 day hike. We are uncertain as to what lies ahead and we document blow by blow to capture the highs and lows of our epic adventure.

    Shane from Wanderers Caravan Park loads us and our weighted packs in his Ute and drives us the 1km to Dungeness Marina. We have an 8.00am ferry departure to the island with Absolute North Charters. John, the owner and Brad are there to meet us and give us some tips on how best to traverse the island. Brad will be our skipper for the transfer. It’s not so much a ferry but a solid aluminium boat with inflatable sides.

    We meet Hannah and Nicki, two young fun adventurers based in Mackay who are also doing the hike, so we won’t be alone. They are studying medicine so they can be our mobile A&E.

    Access to and from the island is dependant on the tides. The sea is choppy as we ride each wave up the eastern side of Hinchenbrook. The view of the island is spectacular, with massive rugged peaks partially covered by foreboding clouds and rainforest that runs right down to the beach. Its like the opening scene of Jurassic Park, only in this place, crocodiles remain and the dinosaurs have long gone.. we think!

    The starting point for the hike is Ramsay Bay and Brad drops us off at the southern most point of the Bay due to tidal conditions. That saves us 500m of hiking and every step saved, counts on this island.

    Hinchenbrook seems to have its own climate with high humidity and plenty of tropical rainfall so we are happy that it’s a sunny dry day for the start of our journey.

    As we get close to shore, our instructions from Brad are to take hiking boots off, put our hiking packs on and jump in to wade through the near 2 foot of water onto the beach. Hearts racing and adrenaline pumping, we make it to the soft sandy beach and look back to see Brad and the boat disappear. Little did we know that this was the first of many steps we will take getting our feet wet.

    Now the official name of the hike is “The Thorsborne Trail”, an epic 4 day, 32km hike North to South on the East side of the island and graded ‘difficult’.

    There are designated camping spots en route mainly by the beach, usually with a fresh water creek nearby for supplies and all with crocodile signs warning of danger...!

    We decide to stick together with Hannah and Nicki and start the first section of our treck. Ramsey Bay to Nina Bay is 4km but will take 2.5 hours to complete as its difficult terrain and we need to carry 4 litres of water each. Not long Into the hike is our first obstacle, a fast and wide moving creek. We take our hiking boots off to stay dry but this became futile as around the corner was another creek, and another, so we ended up wearing them through the crossings.

    The second creek was rocky under foot and we hear a cry for help as Jen slips, her leg gives way and she ends up flat on her front with the heavy pack on top of her. We move in to rescue and A&E is administered sooner than expected by the girls. Worst for wear, with bruises, a bump on the head and a strained finger, Jen is patched up, shaken but not stirred, she bravely continues.

    It’s very humid and sweaty and with the weight of our packs, progress is slow and I think we drank about 1 litre water every 1.5km

    The 2nd section of day 1 is Nina Bay to Little Ramsey Bay, a 2.5km hike. At the southern end of Nina Bay, the trail crosses a rocky section by the shore and we slowly rock hop our way through and head towards the base of a small cliff. The trail climbs the cliff and follows the headland to Boulder Bay, now we are boulder hopping... and onto Little Ramsey Bay.

    We cross a creek flowing quickly into the sea and are relieved to see a campground sign. The campground is by the beach with an amazing backdrop and a fresh water creek running through smooth creamy brown rocks. There are metal rat proof storage boxes for our food and hooks to hang our packs away from the ground level... so why are we the only thing left on ground level...?

    We set up the hiking tent, take our soaking hiking shoes off and head up the creek for fresh water and a cooling swim.

    Before long, the sun disappears over the dark silhouetted mountain tops and we find enough energy to boil some water and make a freeze dried meal of Thai green chicken curry.

    Hannah and Nicki decide to try another camp site in a cove slightly further on and we flashlight each other from the beach in the darkness.

    It’s still humid and I decide to sleep in the hammock and keep watch for a while as the sound of the tide hits the shore. Jen is very sore and eaten by mosquitoes so she doesn’t get much sleep.

    Day 1 was exciting at the start but this was quickly replaced by soreness and tiredness as we realised how tough and challenging the terrain was carrying loaded hiking packs.
    Læs mere

  • The Day Before Tomorrow

    20. april 2019, Australien ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    DRIVE: Townsville to Lucinda (139km)
    It’s time to leave the YHA and Magnetic Island. It’s been a fun place to stay and packing up this morning was as simple as... throw everything in the car.

    Booked on the 11.40am ferry from Magnetic Island back to the mainland, we drive to Picnic Bay, source some good coffee and drive back to the ferry terminal. As luck would have it, an earlier ferry is just about to depart and there’s one spot left for our car so we drive straight on and off we go. That’s called ‘time travelling’ as we have gained an hour for our journey up the coast from Townsville to Lucinda, the starting point for our 4 day Hinchenbrook Island hike tomorrow.

    Townsville was severely flooded in February this year and although surrounded by mountain ranges, the area is quite flat and there are still signs of water receding in and around the sugar cane fields.

    It’s not a long drive today and we soon pass through Ingham and on to Lucinda.

    CAMP: Wanderer Caravan Park Lucinda
    We managed to grab the last site and the caravan park is chocka for the Easter holidays. It’s a big park and extremely well managed and has the best bathroom amenities we have come across.

    Lucinda is a fishing village and everyone at the park has a caravan, a twin cab 4WD and a fishing boat. The blokes walk around proudly wearing and displaying their favourite colourful fishing tee shirts promoting BCF or other marine businesses. You can see that they wear them like a badge of honour just like a footie or rugby top. It’s a different world.

    We are staying in Lucinda for one night and then storing the campervan here at the park for 4 days whilst doing our hike.

    It’s the day before tomorrow when we start ‘The Thorsborne Trail’ on Hinchenbrook Island, one of the best multi day hikes in Australia. We check our equipment and supplies for the hike and fill our hiking packs up to the brim. It’s all a bit heavy but we have to carry plenty of water, food for 4 days and our hiking tent. I sacrifice a few things and shed some weight but the emergency chocolate bars stay.

    We have an 8.00am ferry transfer to Hinchenbrook with John and Absolute North Charters. It will be Easter Sunday so we hope the Easter Bunny can follow our locator beacon.

    All of our food is packed away so we venture up to the local pub, there’s only one in town, and join the locals celebrating the long weekend. The place is packed inside, the rugby’s on the tv, beer is flowing and food orders are streaming in at the bar. We find one solitary table left outside and I go searching for a couple of chairs. It’s a vibrant place and everyone seems to be happy.

    As we tuck in to our grub, the full moon rises in the east and cars towing fishing boats are coming and going to the jetty as if changing from day shift to night shift. It’s the day before tomorrow and we are nervously excited about our hike.
    Læs mere

  • WWll Forts Walk With 360 Views

    19. april 2019, Australien ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

    One of the most popular tracks on Magnetic Island, the 4km return Forts walk leads to historic WWII fortifications and infrastructure.

    The fort complex was constructed in 1943 during World War II to protect Townsville harbour from a feared Japanese invasion of Australia. The fortifications were armed with French 155 millimetres (6.1 in) M3 guns and manned by The Australian Coast Artillery Unit until the end of the pacific war in 1945.

    From the top of the fortifications are 360 degree views of the island and out to the pacific.

    Jen finds and climbs the range finder pedestal which was used in the war to calculate required distance and trajectory of the gun’s missiles to reach their targets. I think she is working out the math to use me as a human cannonball...

    We spot a Koala on the return trip and then take a short drive to the village of Arcarda and a swim at Elma Bay.

    It’s a typical Aussie Good Friday and the beach is busy with families from the mainland and a surf life saving competition is in progress. The water as expected is warm and refreshing. Magnetic Island gets 300 days a year of pure sunshine.
    Læs mere

  • YHA Magnetic Island

    18. april 2019, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    It’s amazing, the longer we travel up the coast of tropical Queensland, the younger we get. It must be the sea breeze or something. So we have ditched the campervan and left it on the mainland in Townsville and have taken the car on the ferry to Magnetic Island.

    We are staying at Magnetic Island YHA. In case you missed that, Youth Hostel Australia. Of course we fit in really well as our well travelled youthful glow and colour rinsed hair blend in seamlessly with the transient backpackers circling the bar like sharks for happy hour. Don’t be deterred, you too can fit in as there are young and old, families and people from all walks of life staying here.

    DRIVE: Bowen to Magnetic Island via Townsville (202km).

    CAMP: Luxury, an A framed cabin at Bungalow Bay Koala. Village, YHA, Horseshoe Bay, Magnetic Island / 2 nights.

    The Magnetic Island Ferry takes about 40 minutes to cross from Townsville. Blue sky and sunshine all the way with a nice breeze to catch.

    Magnetic Island was named by Captain Cook in 1770. As The Endeavour passed by the island, Cook’s compass went haywire so he documented the epiphany by naming the island “Magnetic Island”.

    We arrive at Nelly Bay ferry terminal and immediately seek something to eat as we had left early from Bowen this morning.

    We find a popular outdoor pirate themed cafe called Scallywags, a perfect pit stop for brunch. Everything with eggs and hot chocolate for Jen and a double shot latte for me. It’s taken me a while to find a decent coffee and this place hits the mark.

    Refueled and reenergised, we drive up the road to Picnic Bay and then drive back through Nelly Bay 4.5km all the way to Horseshoe Bay on the northern shore of Magnetic Island. This is the longest drive you can do on the island.

    We are a bit early to check in to the YHA so we grab a cold drink from the bar and settle on some giant bean bags...and mingle.

    Bungalow Bay Koala Village is set up really well with a range of shared, double and en-suite A frame cabins dotted around a tropical landscape. There’s also a camping area. The air con works a treat so I soon have our cabin ice cold.

    Horseshoe Bay is a short stroll from the YHA. Hang on, haven’t we just been to Horseshoe Bay in Bowen...? That’s right, another bay of similar shape but this one on Magnetic Island is an expansive orange sandy bay with a number of yachts moored in its protective cove. The street runs alongside the bay with palm trees and picnic benches on the beach side and a selection of cafes and restaurants on the other which have a real beachy vibe to them.

    It’s a cool place with los of activities to do from Jet Skiing to being towed behind a boat at speed on an inflatable. We decide to go for a kayak around the bay. The tide was low and on the eastern side of the bay are partially exposed coral reefs surrounded by seaweed. Jen spots three turtle heads pop up as we paddle around the bay, or it could have been one turtle head three times...

    After a happy hour cocktail at the YHA bar, mine was green and tasted like fairy dishwashing liquid, we walk to Horseshoe Bay for dinner.

    It’s Thursday night so Parma night at the local pub. Chicken Parmigiana plus a cold beer or glass of wine for $15. It’s a winner. Jen has the Barramundi even though it’s a Thursday... There are other places to eat by the bay but sometimes, you just can’t beat a good old Aussie pub meal.
    Læs mere

  • A view of the Bays of Bowen

    17. april 2019, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Bowen has some spectacular beaches and ocean views. We start the day on top of Flagstaff Hill which commands views out to the Whitsundays and across to the rugged mountains that surround Hydeaway Bay. It also has a panoramic view of the town of Bowen.

    Situated less than one kilometre from the Bowen mainland, at the entrance to Port Dension is North Head Island and home to one of Queensland's oldest lighthouses. ... The lighthouse was home to a family for a short period of time - the children enjoying a daily canoe to the mainland for school. During low tide in Winter, you can walk across to the lighthouse.

    We move on to Rose Bay and return to Horseshoe Bay to climb the lookout and watch sunset. There is a 4.5 km hike starting at Horseshoe Bay popular with the locals. In fact, after spending a few days in Bowen now, we realise that it’s a quiet town that has not been burdened by mass tourism and the locals live a happy life surrounded by beautiful beaches.

    It’s a balance I know as the little town relies heavily on agriculture to sustain its community so although the tourism dollars are greatly welcomed, it’s refreshing to sea a beach town that is unspoilt by over development.

    I pose for a panoramic as the sun goes down and Jen finds a swing to sit on overlooking the bay.

    We have really enjoyed our stay at Bowen, the place grows on you and the weather is ever so perfect.
    Læs mere

  • Baz Luhrmann's Australia Filmed in Bowen

    16. april 2019, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    In December 2006, it was announced that Bowen was chosen as a filming location for a third of the production of Australia, directed by Baz Luhrmann and starring Nicole Kidman and Hugh Jackman, portraying the look of Darwin.

    A film set was built and production of the iconic movie commenced in May 2007.

    A number of the historic buildings in Bowen featured in the movie including The Grandview Hotel. Jen was excited to visit the hotel as this is where her heart throb, Hugh Jackman spilled sweat, blood and tears making the movie. Alas he was long gone...

    In its lifetime, The Grandview Hotel was destroyed twice by fire and twice by cyclone which only adds to the charming resilience of this astonishing building. With a recent chic modern touch to the design whilst preserving the history of the building, the hotel continues to hold a commanding corner position on one of Bowen's Main Streets.

    We take a trip though history and enjoy a beer and dinner at the hotel, soft shell crab for me and salt n pepper squid for Jen.
    Læs mere

  • 10 Historic Murals Of Bowen

    15. april 2019, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Today we parked the car in Bowen town and walked the streets to hunt for Bowen’s historical murals. There are 28 in total depicting diverse history from the town’s early settlers to modern day.

    We managed to view 25 of the 28 murals, 10 of which are presented in pictures for your viewing pleasure.
    Læs mere

  • The Pretty Seaside Town of Bowen

    14. april 2019, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    DRIVE: Airlie Beach to Bowen via Hydeaway Bay (132km)

    Today we have a leisurely pack up after spending 9 nights at Big 4 Whitsunday Tropical Eco Resort, Airlie. Sad to be leaving as this has been the best caravan park we have stayed at and it’s been a relaxing and peaceful tropical oasis.

    It’s always exciting to be moving on though so that we can explore a new destination. We detour to Hydeaway Bay which is a short hop up the coast from Airlie. Hydeaway Bay is picturesque and looks out to the Whitsundays. Most of the properties here are beach houses with great views of the ocean although it does have a caravan park named “Hideaway Caravan Park” with an i, not a y. In fact, there is some dispute over the spelling of the name and the locals insist Hydeaway with a ‘y’ is historically correct.

    Further up the coast is the pretty seaside town of Bowen. Looking on my weather report, it’s 28 degrees and sunny here all week long although there are welcome signs that the breeze is cooling the humidity down as winter slowly approaches. Not to worry, winter is a cool 26-27 degrees up here so we are timing our trip to enjoy a change in season.

    CAMP: NRMA Bowen Beach Front Caravan Park.
    We had pre booked a beach front site a long time ago so that we can chill for 4 days and Bowen seems like the perfect place for it as we look out over Queens Beach.

    Bowen is renowned for its award winning beaches and close proximity to the Great Barrier Reef. It’s also known as the salad bowl of Australia due to its diversity of crops and fresh produce. Home to the Kensington Pride Mango, we passed “The Big Mango” on our way into the town.

    Swiftly set up, (we are experts after 58 days), we grab our neglected bikes, not used them for a while and take a relaxing bike ride following the shoreline pathway to Horseshoe Bay catching the sea breeze on the way. No awards for working out why it’s called Horseshoe Bay and we are pleasantly greeted by beige and orange rock formations and boulders surrounding a small but magnificently formed bay. The waves lap in to shore as we traverse some of the rock formations on the south side of the bay.

    It’s a little blustery today but on a calm day, these waters are crystal blue with opportunity to snorkel so hopefully we will see the bay at its most vibrant.

    We explore a bit and as super hero’s, ”The Un-Incedibles”, we find a large distressed boulder hanging from a ledge that is about to fall. We smell DANGER and quickly move in to support it from the effects of gravity. I have a go first but Jen finds the perfect hands free balancing trick to render the boulder safe... all in a days work and another lizard’s life saved.

    Returning on the bike path to camp, it’s definitely time to put the feet up, chill out and watch another sunset. The simple things in life are the best so... sausages and red wine for dinner.
    Læs mere

  • Last Day In Paradise

    13. april 2019, Australien ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

    After recovering from heat exhaustion yesterday, we visit the Saturday markets at Airlie Beach. I was surprised as there was no barista serving fresh local coffee. I could have made a fortune even with my little Nespresso machine...

    Our final day in The Whitsundays was spent mooching around and viewing some of the hillside properties overlooking the marina and beyond to the Islands. Magnificent views.

    It’s not a great day for water activities as the wind is up so we will have to do our planned Jet ski tour on another visit. On windy days, the backpackers park themselves in Airlie at the local pubs, bars and cafes so it’s good for the on land economy.

    We enjoy the rest of the day surrounded by tropical plants and rainforests listening to the occasional plane take off back at our resort. I even find a banana plant with a bunch of under ripe bananas hanging invitingly, to be picked on another day.

    There’s something peaceful and relaxing about a tropical paradise and we even like the warm tropical down pours which come and go frequently, always to be followed bay a ray of sunshine.
    Læs mere

  • Tropical Eco Recovery 101

    12. april 2019, Australien ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

    Here are the 7 prescribed steps to recover from being stranded on a deserted tropical island for two days.

    1. Drink plenty of fluid. Turn the esky down to almost freezing so the beer and cider is ice cold.

    2. Have a long cold shower to cleanse the spirit, remove the sand from hard to reach places and soothe away the insect bites.

    3. Turn on fans and air conditioning and be totally inactive. Hibernate from the heat, noise, people, all civilisation in general at least until midday.

    4. Reintroduce oneself slowly to the rigours of normal life. Try a hat on... go get a strong coffee or a real hot chocolate, sit at a cafe with a view and find some food with sugar in it.

    4. Return to your sanctuary and take a long siesta on a comfortable mattress whilst a tropical storm passes by.

    5. Re-energise with a sunset cocktail overlooking a harbour whilst listening to reggae music.

    6. Get some red meat and replenish the body accompanied by a bottle of decent red wine.

    7. Retire to bed for an early night to maximise full recovery.
    Læs mere

  • Return to Civilisation

    11. april 2019, Australien ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    Before we left our beach paradise on Whitehaven, as all stranded folk on a deserted island do, I left a message on the sand.

    Our transfer back to the mainland picks us up with precision timing, 10.00am. A storm is due so we are racing against the darkening clouds behind us as we dart through the channel past Hamilton Island, South Molle Island and Daydream Island. (See the Whitsunday map for our journey).

    The view ahead is clear blue skies but the rain clouds are moving in, typical of a tropical storm. We almost make it home before the rain, but at once, the temperature drops and the rain engulfs us. It’s like a warming shower really and only lasts 5-10 minutes and the blue sky and sun return.

    Back at Shute Harbour, we unload our sturdy vessel and transfer the gear to the car for a short return trip back to our Eco Resort.

    Jen has been eaten by mozzies and flies even with repellent on so they must like the taste of her blood.

    We are a bit tired and dehydrated as expected when you have to live a spartan life on a deserted Island for a few nights. A cool refreshing shower and a few beers will fix that.
    Læs mere

  • Whitehaven Beach Sunrise to Sunset

    10. april 2019, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Sunrise is officially 6.14am but we want to see it from the other end of Whitehaven Beach at Hills Inlet. It’s a 7km beach hike from camp so we wake up and set off at 5am at a brisk walking pace.

    It’s darkness but the stars and the moon reflect on the ocean and we follow the shoreline by the sound of the waves. Its currently low tide. We have headlamps but we switch them off as its much more fun in the dark and after 3km into our hike, the sunrise sky to the east is already making yellow, orange and red tones.

    5km In, I decide that it’s a perfect time to capture the sun with the drone just before it peaks out over the distant islands.

    It’s a magnificent view and we continue the further 2km to Hills Inlet to see the full sunrise. Sunrise happens quick and all too soon, we are viewing blue sky and aqua waters and the temperature is already on the rise.

    7km seemed a shorter distance in the dark and our return trip felt never ending and the moored yachts close to camp seemed to never get any closer. That’s a long hike before breakfast so we are pretty much tired and hungry.

    The rest of the morning is spent resting in the hammock or beach chair and avoiding the sun Lots of midnight blue butterfly’s with white spots gently pass us by.

    In the afternoon, we grab the snorkel gear and walk the 50m to a cove at the start of Whitehaven Beach, the place where Jen spotted a reef shark yesterday. Visibility is great and we spot a number of tropical fish including many black and white Collingwood stripey ones and a stingray hiding under a submerged oyster rock cliff.

    There’s a short hike to a lookout overlooking Whitehaven and across to the other side at Chance Bay. We wander up the sandy path as the sun cools and meet Leo and Dougie. They came across to Whitehaven today with a mechanical digger and supplies to excavate a new pathway up to the lookout.

    Leo is a National Parks ranger and an Aboriginal from The Ngaro tribe who are the ancestral owners of the islands in The Whitsundays. Leo is a kind, passionate and respectful fellow who supervises any work to be done in the National Park. Dougie is a glowing older gentleman with a straw brim hat and a tanned lined face that show he has worked hard on the land. Aptly named, Dougie digs for a living with his excavator and is a real modern day pioneer as he forges hiking trails through the National Park. Both of them are tasked with excavating a 36km trail from Chance Bay to Tung Point on Whitsunday Island. A test run of 1.5km took 3 weeks to dig...

    We reach the top of the lookout and view Chance Bay. A tall sculptured rock Island dominates the Far horizon.

    Back at camp, our last activity for the day is a short kayak during sunset and then I prepare a tasty chicken pasta on the hiking stove. Gee, it’s still only 6.30pm. Time moves pleasantly slow here.

    Layered up with mozzie spray, I sleep out under the stars in the hammock tonight with the occasional large bat swooping into the trees above.

    WILDLIFE:
    Butterfly’s, Collingwood Fish, Stingray, Kukkaburras, Bats, Goannas.
    Læs mere

  • Stranded and Alone on Whitehaven Beach

    9. april 2019, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    CAMP: Whitehaven Beach, Whitsundays, 2 Nights

    Today is perfect sunny weather for our transfer to Whitsunday Island and the magical Whitehaven Beach. We have 2 nights camping on Whitehaven Beach so we have loaded up our hiking packs including the hiking tent and an Esky full of food plus our kayaks in tow.

    You can camp on many of the Islands in the Whitsundays and booked via the Queensland National Parks website.

    We depart Shute Harbour at 8.30am with a company called Scamper Island Transfers. We are the only ones going out and it takes an hour to our destination, passing Hamilton Island on the way. Once we hit unprotected ocean, we cascade up and down some serious waves and at one point, half the ocean came over the bow and soaked us.

    We reach the point and turn into view of the brilliant white sand of Whitehaven, the seas become calm and the wind has dropped.

    The boat we are on is like an amphibious army personnel carrier with a massive cargo drop bridge at the front. It’s like the opening shot of Saving Private Ryan. As we reach the beach, myself and Jen are charged with unlocking the cargo door and it lowers perfectly onto the crisp white sand for us to invade the Island.

    As we unload our gear, campers are waiting for their return transfer to the mainland and we suddenly realise that tonight, we are the only ones left camping on the island, so it’s gonna be total isolation.

    ISLAND CHALLENGE
    So here’s a challenge for our most dedicated followers... You are sent to a deserted Island, water, coconuts, olive oil, salt & pepper are plentiful. You are allowed unlimited supply of 5 foods, i.e a cow would be food which would cover meat and dairy or flour would be food or tomatos. It’s up to you. What will you Bring?

    Post your 5 things on our blog Under this footprint.

    For now, the main beach is buzzing with day tourists, tour boats come and go, sailing vessels are anchored within paddling distance of the shore and a seaplane lands just off shore carrying bespoke passengers to paradise.

    As we are the only campers, we have choice of camp site and select a perfect site within metres of the beach overlooking Whitehaven shoreline.

    We assess the direction of the sun for afternoon shade and protection and set up the tent.

    We are greeted by a goanna who’s checking us out for food and a seriously large and hairy Huntsman spider on a wooden post as we enter the site.

    Once set up, I turn on the hiking stove and put the kettle on for a morning coffee and we unwind in the camping chairs with our his and hers beach towels, a gift from ‘R Kid”. This is the best view ever and look no further for paradise.

    We had been to Whitehaven beach in September 2017 after Cyclone Debbie had flattened many of the trees that line the beach for miles. It’s great to see that the beach and landscape is recovering and the rangers have upgraded the camping and visitor facilities whilst maintaining the pristine look of the beach. Pirates Of the Caribbean 4 was filmed here at Whitehaven Beach to take in its outstanding natural beauty but only a few seconds of footage made the cut.. In fact Whitehaven has been voted one of the top two beaches in the world because of its super fine and vivid white silica sand.

    Slowly, the tourist depart the beach and sail away back to civilisation. We watch from our vantage point until we are the only ones left, “WILSON”. Stranded and alone on Whitehaven Beach, from here on, ours are the only footprints left on the island.

    Jen takes the kayak and paddles along the coastline. Suddenly she shouts out, there’s a baby shark... yeah well where’s it’s mother...?

    The sun is soon setting and its my favourite part of the day as I love to watch the colours change as the shadows on the beach begin to lengthen.

    It’s a perfect sunset and it lingers creating pink and blue fluffy clouds on the horizon above the distant but prominent Esk island out to sea.

    I take advantage and set the drone on another mission to capture the sunset moment on Whitehaven Beach.

    Soon a quarter moon has replaced the sun and thousands of stars appear as there is no light to obscure their intensity. All we can hear are the gentle waves lapping the shore as we tuck into a roast chicken and a glass of red wine, oh and the occasional rustle from the bushes which reminds us that we are not alone after all....

    I am definitely having roast chicken on my deserted island (well real chickens at least).

    The Huntsman spider has moved on but the pythons are active at night so Jen insists that we zip up the tent tonight... All good.

    WILDLIFE:
    Goannas, Giant Huntsmen Spiders, Baby Reef Shark, Pythons, Roast Chicken.
    Læs mere

  • Snorkelling Pearl Bay & Langford Isld

    8. april 2019, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Fortunately, there’s a break in the weather and we have lighter winds and no tropical rain for the start of our Catamaran Cruise on Illusions 2. We selected this tour as it goes to Blue Pearl Bay, Hayman Island and Langford Island, two well known reefs for snorkelling and diving.

    Skipper Joe and Naomi are our hosts and briskly set sail from Airlie, Abell Point Marina at 7.30am.

    The ride out is a little choppy taking a couple of hours to reach Blue Pearl Bay. Hayman Island, the more exclusive of all the islands is still undergoing renovations from cyclone Debbie and is estimated to reopen in August.

    Once a jewel (or pearl) in the crown, Blue Pearl Bay was the best inner reef location in The Whitsundays to see coral and tropical fish. The cyclone smashed all the coral and reminants of crushed coral cover the beach. It’s still a beautiful location to visit and the reef and fish are slowly rejuvenating the area but it will take some years to recover. Undeterred, we go exploring and view a range of fish and sea life.

    Langford reef is a narrow slice of sandy beach like a sand dune which sticks up just above the sea level in the middle of the ocean. Turtles feed off Langford Reef but today, visibility is poor and not great for snorkelling. The sail back to the mainland is rough as the wind has picked up past 25 nots. We sit on the Bow of the catamaran and get frequently splashed by sea spray and waves.
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