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Central Australia & Ayers Rock
  • Walshies Down Under
juin – juil. 2019

Central Australia & Ayers Rock

June - July 2019 En savoir plus
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  • Début du voyage
    23 juin 2019
    Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    Meet Reg Duncan, Darwin to Litchfield

    23 juin 2019, Australie ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    After breakfast, we walk the 3km from the hotel through Darwin’s impressive Botanic Gardens to pick up our car at JJs Car Hire. We had stored it here for the duration of our 4WD hire. It’s a bit dirty but other than that, the kayaks are still on the roof top and the Kluger starts first time.

    We head back to the hotel to pick up our luggage stopping off for groceries on the way. After giving the car a car wash, we pick up our campervan form Darwin storage, hook up and set off for the start of another adventure.

    This is the final instalment of our Walshies Down Under trip and we are travelling from the top end and down through central Australia visiting amongst other places, Ayres Rock on the way.

    DRIVE: Darwin to Litchfield National Park (111km).

    Today we drive a short distance to Litchfield National Park.

    On the way in we passed through Coomalie Creek & Batchelor where Jenny’s Grandfather, Reg Duncan served in WWII from mid 1943 to October 1945. He was a Leading Airman with the 87 (PR) Squadron (formerly No. 1 PRU) at Coomalie airfield; the photographic unit in the RAAF who went up to do all the aerial reconnaissance photography.

    Coomalie airfield was constructed between July & November 1942 and was bombed by the Japanese on three occasions - 27 November 1942 and 13 & 21 August 1943. By June 1945, 87 (PR) Squadron had produced almost 10,500 photographic prints in support of RAAF/USAAF bombing raids to Japanese-held Timor/Indonesia. The last wartime sortie from Coomalie was flown on 15 August 1945 when Mosquito A52-609 set off to photograph targets on Timor. With the Japanese surrender officially announced, the aircraft was recalled to Coomalie where it made a fast low-level pass in celebration of victory. 87 (PR) Squadron remained at Coomalie airfield until 30 October 1945 when it was abandoned.

    Pre-WWII, the area known as Rum Jungle was home to one of two demonstration farms established by the Commonwealth in 1912. In 1911, the Commonwealth took over the Territory from South Australia and in a bid to attract people set up farms to model the opportunities available through farming. Didn’t really take off, did it?!

    Post-war was when the boom happened. With the US discovery (& use) of atomic weapons, they, and the UK were after uranium “in defence of the free world”. In the early 50s farmers in the area discovered uranium and a new era was born with the establishment of the Rum Jungle Uranium Project in 1954. Batchelor became the third largest town in the NT, after Darwin and Alice Springs. Over 300 men and about 15 single women worked on the project; the women being housed in accommodation known as the Virgins’ Villas and the Nunnery!

    CAMP: Litchfield Tourist Park / 2 Nights

    It’s so nice to have our campervan set up again and it’s quite luxurious compared to the roof top tent even though we enjoyed that too.

    Litchfield Tourist Park is very pleasant as they have real grassy sites and abundant shade trees being constantly watered from a windmill pumping bore water from deep in the ground. In contrast to Broome, the evenings here get much cooler so extra blankets tonight. We are within a few kilometres of Litchfield National Park and look forward to exploring it tomorrow.    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    Waterfalls & Mob Fire in Litchfield NP

    24 juin 2019, Australie ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Litchfield National Park, covers approximately 1500 km2 and is near the township of Batchelor, just over 100km south-west of Darwin. Proclaimed a national park in 1986, it is named after Frederick Henry Litchfield, a Territory pioneer, who explored areas of the Northern Territory in 1864.

    Aboriginal people have lived throughout the area for thousands of years. It’s important to the Kungarakan and Marranunggu peoples for whom their ancestral spirits are still considered actively present in the landscape.

    Our first stop in Litchfield National Park is Wangi Falls. As we drive in on the sealed road, there’s smoke everywhere coming from the thick surrounding bush, assuming from dry season burn offs. Some of the smoke and fire though have creating large plumes further in the distance and a couple of walking tracks have been closed due to natural fires.

    Wangi Falls spills over the tall sandstone cliffs of the tableland plateau into a large plunge pool with a beautiful backdrop. Smoke haze fills the cliff tops and black Kite birds are circling looking for prey. It’s early for a dip but within minutes, lots of travellers are turning up and plunging in so we join them. The water is not too cold and a comfortable temperature for a morning bathe.

    Wangi Falls and all the other waterfalls in Litchfield flow all year round. The sandstone of the tableland plateau acts like a giant sponge, absorbing the wet season rain and then slowly releasing the water creating natural springs over the dry season. These natural springs feed the waterfalls constantly which shows just how much rain the wet season brings. It’s quite a contrast to the Kimberley waterfalls which eventually stop flowing further into the dry season.

    I spot an interesting sign about crocodiles that may be resident in the plunge pool beneath Wangi Falls from time to time.

    “When the creek floods, salt water crocodiles move in” That’s not very reassuring.

    The Wangi Falls loop walk is closed due to fires above the tableland plateau with some smoke and fire reaching around the vertical slopes of Wangi Falls. Word has it that two Aboriginal Mobs have been clashing in the area and each mob has sabotaged the other’s land by setting fire to it...! So that’s why there’s random fires everywhere.

    It’s not uncommon for different tribes or mobs to clash and it’s been going on for thousands of years.

    Although us white folk often depict the indigenous culture as being the same Aboriginal group, they actually belong to many a different tribe with differing cultural identities, rituals and sense of belonging. Territory or sacred land is always an issue and the mobs often fight between each other. Lesson taken. If you fall out with thy neighbour, just set fire to his garden and lawn... oh and run!

    Tolmer Falls is next, a few kilometres up the road. Tolmer Falls cascades from the tabletop range, eroding the landscape and creating a rich and vibrant sanctuary for wildlife below. It’s height is impressive from the viewing platform and there’s a 1.5km loop walking track with passes the top of the falls.

    There’s what seems a small insignificant but pretty creek at the top of the falls, gently following its course, then plunging into a chasm above the main falls creating a small reservoir of water. From here the water gathers pace and drops over Tolmer Falls in volumes. No swimming here as there’s no safe way down to the pool below the falls.

    Having seen so many waterfalls on this trip, one could be forgiven for becoming a little underwhelmed when seeing another. Not today, Florence Falls is the most picture perfect and beautiful falls I have encountered so far. Jen still thinks the rugged Bell Gorge was her favourite and Mitchell Falls was epic. For me, Florence Falls is by far the most vibrant and picturesque due to its its stunning setting, it’s twin falls working in harmony and it’s clear inviting plunge pool.

    I swim out to the larger fall and hold onto the rock underneath for a while, then push out floating on my back to view the cascading water above contrasting with the vivid blue sky. My ears are submerged and all I can hear is... silence.

    Again, Florence Falls is fed by natural springs above the tableland plateau just upstream of Buley Rockhole and it flows into The Finnish River. It’s a busy little place and no one minds the 330 steps to get down to this well hidden oasis.

    On our way back, we visit the magnetic termite mounds. These incredible elongated mounds all align on a north - south axis and the magnetic termites that make them are found nowhere else on earth. Although the majority of termite species build their homes underground, termite mounds are created in places where there is significant rainfall and a wet season, therefore providing a dry safe haven for the termites inside their elevated homes.

    The north-south aspects of these structures ensures that the termites create a climate controlled environment inside the mounds. In the heat of the day, they regulate the temperature to keep things cool and at night the mounds keep them protected from the cold. What’s more, the mounds are tall like a skyscraper so they take up minimal footprint. What an ingenious solution to urban living. Maybe we should all live in termite mounds. With the growth in high rise inner city apartments, come to think of it, we probably already do...

    The giant of all termite mounds is made by the Cathedral Termite often making their mega structures 5 metres in height. They are epic considering an average termite is about 5mm long and an army of them build these Cathedral Mounds with some of the mounds 40+ years old.

    Wait a minute, like nature, humans can take credit too. Didn’t the Egyptians use an army of tens of thousand of termites, whoops I mean men to build the Pyramids, man’s ultimate Cathedral to the gods. Oh the similarities.

    Litchfield NP has such a varied and interesting natural landscape. There are places off road we could visit like “The Lost City” but we are content in staying dirt free for today and exploring the waterfalls.    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    Kakadu Dreamtime, A Timeless Place

    25 juin 2019, Australie ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    DRIVE: Litchfield NP to Kakadu NP, Jabiru (293km).

    Kakadu National Park is truly a timeless place. Bininj/Mungguy people have lived on and cared for this country for 65,000, one of the longest historical records of any group of people on earth.

    The name Kakadu was suggested to recognise Gagudju, a sacred Aboriginal language which used to be spoken in the park.

    Covering nearly 20,000 square kilometres of exceptional natural beauty and unique biodiversity, Kakadu National Park is teeming with wildlife, home to important Aboriginal rock art sites, and diverse and exotic landscapes. This has earned it a World Heritage listing for both its cultural and natural values.

    The park is located within the Alligator Rivers Region of the Northern Territory. It’s strange that the rivers are named after alligators as I can’t recall a movie called “Alligator Dundee”. Well it turns out that the English explorer Phillip Parker King named the rivers after the crocodiles which he mistook for alligators and the mud stuck, hence East Alligator River, West Alligator River and South Alligator River.

    .DREAMTIME
    The world always existed. To Aboriginal people, however, it had no shape, no life until the dormant creator spirits awoke - until the Dreamtime.

    Dreamtime is an intricate Aboriginal belief that explains the mystery of creation. Tales of the dreaming tell of this creation offering explanations for the existence of different kinds of animals, the first human beings, the unique landscape, the wonder of the seasons, the endless sky. These creations have been passed on through the generations and represented in song lines and symbolic rock art first created by the Mimi spirits.

    Once their creative efforts were over, spirit ancestors remained, turning themselves into rocks, pools, paintings, and other special places. In these sacred districts, the Gagudju and the land continue to draw strength. These are the Dreaming sites.

    CAMP: Kakadu Lodge and Caravan Park / 2 Nights

    We are staying 4 nights in Kakadu to appreciate its timeless beauty and explore different sections of the park. Kakadu Lodge in Jabiru is a great central location to explore the East Alligator River.    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    Bird Watching & Ubirr, An Ancient Land

    26 juin 2019, Australie ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Today we are exploring the East Alligator River and heading to Ubirr for sunset. It’s a long day until sunset so Jen makes fried Haloumi Cheese with smashed avocado, bacon and cherry tomatoes on sourdough toast for breakfast. That will keep us going.

    We start the day at Bowali Visitor Centre to explore Aboriginal culture and the diversity of Kakadu National Park. What did we learn?

    Well the indigenous folk call themselves Gukberlerri (Aboriginal People) and they call us white folk Guhelbe (Non Aboriginal People).

    There are six local Gundjeihmi seasons;
    1. Gudjewg (Monsoon) Dec to Mar
    2. Banggerreng (Harvest time) Apr
    3. Yegge (Cooler but still humid) May to Jun
    4. Wurrgeng (Cool dry season) Jun to Aug
    5. Gurrung (Hot dry time) Aug to Oct
    6. Gunumeling (Pre monsoon) Oct to Dec

    So that puts us in Wurrgeng, the cool dry season when most creeks stop flowing, the Floodplains dry out and birds of prey like the Black Kite patrol fire lines, swooping for wildlife.

    Also we found out that Kakadu surrounds a rich uranium site and by coincidence... the Aboriginals call this area Buladjang or “sickness country”.

    Next we visit Mamukala Wetlands for a spot of bird watching. It’s an all weather sport up here and today it’s hot and dry. Camera at the ready, we follow a 3km walk close to the wetlands. I hear plenty but only spot 2 birds. The photo of the little blue and yellow bird is my shot of the day. Can anyone name the bird?

    It’s a bit like when we lived in Lennox Gardens in London and our park always had birds tweeting but we never saw them. Those surround sound speakers are so realistic these days and they must deploy them in numbers on this bird watching tour. Truth be known, we are a bit late, it’s 9.30am already and the early bird catches the worm.

    The drive into Ubirr is about 40km. I did it back in 1990 as a backpacker and with little money to spare, I stood on the corner of the then dirt track and a group of Aboriginal men stopped in a Ute vehicle and offered me a lift to Ubirr, dropping me off at the YHA. I could have ended up in Arnhem Land as a lost soul taken by the spirits as we are right on the border. Well the road is sealed now and no sign of the YHA anymore.

    Ubirr has great examples of Aboriginal rock art depicting Dreamtime and stories from time past. My favourite is the painting of Mabuyu which tells a story that warns against stealing. The short story goes that someone stole his fish so the fearsome Mabuyu locked everyone in a cave and they got punished, kids, women, men... all dead.

    We walk through the escarpment of Ubirr towards sandstone formations and climb up to a vantage point overlooking the flood plains and Arnhem Land in the distance. It’s an amazing view and time has stood still here, it’s as it was thousands of years ago, an ancient land living and breathing with the six seasons. Even with the dry, there’s a pretty billabong sustaining life in the middle of the plain and everywhere is green.

    As we are here for sunset and it’s not until after 6.00pm, we drive a short distance to Cahill’s Crossing which is a short vehicle crossing over the East Alligator River to Arnhem Land and a known crocodile spotting area. Regardless of the “Danger, Crocodile” signs, men were walking the crossing and in the shallows of the river fishing for Barramundi. There’s even the remains of our 4WD, sorry a 4WD in the river that had come to a sad and sorry end on the crossing.

    I just realised that after all my footprints and highlights about crocs, I haven’t seen a salty on this trip yet. Plenty of freshies but none of the big bad ones. Jen has seen a 4.5m salty in the Ord river at Kununurra but let’s face it, where’s the photographic evidence... so I am still on the hunt.

    As we return to the Ubirr lookout, the surrounding landscape is crackling fiercely with the sound of fire with flames climbing up the Pandanus Palms and smoke haze everywhere. We’re on fire and it’s literally metres away. A burn off is in progress and the wild grasses are erupting in flames whilst the Kites circle above. Like everyone else, we assume it’s safe and continue the climb up to the sandstone lookout.

    We are 2 hours early for sunset so I stand one footed on a rock and contemplate life whilst Jen sits on a rock, pulls out a book and sticks her head in it. I replicate the shot with a couple of props from Jen. A book is on the top of Jen’s survival list. Mine would be a double shot latte and a scotch finger biscuit...

    It’s difficult to capture in a photo the amazing view across the Kakadu plains and out towards Arnhem Land as the sun sets and the birds excitedly fly across the billabong. It’s again one of those moments to just enjoy.

    I did get a few good creative shots of the billabong though as the sun creates a mirror reflection on the water. All too soon, the sun is disappearing for another day and like other folk around us, we rush back down from the lookout as the light fades to dark and the Dreamtime spirits start to appear.    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    From 65,000 Years To The Lightning Man

    27 juin 2019, Australie ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    DRIVE: Jabiru to Cooinda (40km)

    40km south of Jabiru on the Kakadu Highway, we visit Nourlangie Rock on route to Cooinda Lodge and our next camping spot in Kakadu. Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) is famous for its rock art and evidence of Aboriginal settlement in and around the rock overhangs. Like many Aboriginal places, the names have been labelled incorrectly, misspelt or interpreted wrongly by white people. Nourlangie is close by but the rock formation here is actually named Burrunggui for the upper section of the rock and Angbangbang for the lower section of the rock.

    It’s almost 10.30am so we have timed our visit to join in on the end of an Aboriginal Interpretation tour. A young white female who works for Kakadu National Park was taking the tour and she was super informative and knowledgeable about the Aboriginal culture and history at this place.

    We are standing in the past, facing a large cave like rock overhang with another sheltering rock formation behind us and vista views on either side of the woodlands and escarpment. The breeze is gently filtering through and combined with shade, it makes the shelter cool from the heat of the sun and a perfect place to set up residence. Its a special place.

    Aboriginal paintings adorn the walls and evidence of smoke can be seen on the ceiling of the overhang giving clues to its long history as an Aboriginal dwelling.

    So how long ago? Well the guide explains that after a number of archeological digs, tools were found at the site and the most primitive tool, a sharp rock implement was dated to 65,000 years ago when the area was dryer and more arid. That’s mind blowing.

    As the land and climate changed dramatically over time, we can move to 20,000 years ago and see that the tools and implements are more sophisticated with spears and rope and fire sticks. These tools were found at the same site and indicate that the land was more fertile for food and hunting and these residents were less transient and more like settlers.

    So that’s still 20,000 years ago, and still a lot more recent than 65,000 years when the earliest ancestors roamed this land. To get the timeline into perspective, Jesus was 2,000 years ago, The Pyramids 4,000 years ago and Stone Henge 5,000 years ago. What’s even more impressive is that the Aboriginal culture still has the same belief systems and values today and they largely prepare and eat their food the same way.

    Amazing...

    As we move on and follow a pathway winding through the rock, there are many more sites of cultural significance, some of which are off limits. The tour guide explained that this site is a small example of indigenous culture and there are a great many more hidden and sacred places right through Kakadu and Arnhem Land.

    Like the ancient ancestors who created paintings and artwork on rock, the tradition continues with new stories and art depicting modern times being added and even white men with guns! It’s a never ending timeline of stories dating back as far as 65,000 years ago. Wait a minute, isn’t that like Facebook, let me see, it’s surely been around for 15 years.

    So we finally meet The Lightning Man. The Lightning Man rock art is a relatively recent painting although its spirit and story go back thousands of years.

    The rock art depicts Namarrgon (Lightning Man) who is an important creation ancestor responsible for the violent lightning storms that occur every tropical summer.

    The band running from Namarrgon’s left ankle to his hands and head and down to his right ankle represents the lightning he creates. He uses the axes on his head, elbows and feet to split the dark clouds and make lightning and thunder.

    During his travels, Namarrgon left his power behind at many places and on his last last journey, he approached the Arnhem Land escarpment from the east and looked over the sheer wall. He took out an eye and placed it high on the cliff at Namarrgondjahdjam (Lightning Dreaming), where it sits waiting for the storm season.

    CAMP: Cooinda Lodge / 2 Nights
    After exploring Nourlangie, we drive the short distance to Cooinda and set up for 2 nights.

    The remainder of the day is filled by lazing by the resort pool and catching happy hour at the restaurant for a beer and cider. there are aboriginal folk enjoying a beer in the gardens and as i pass an elder woman, she says “how ya goin” and i reply, “me good” doh!!!

    I think “me dumb dumb”.    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    5 Metre Ginga (Croc) In Yellow Water

    28 juin 2019, Australie ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    It’s an early start to the day, up before dawn and onto a shuttle bus to take us down to Yellow Water (Ngurrungurridjba) for a two hour sunrise cruise. It’s a cool, still and foggy morning which adds to the excitement and atmosphere as we depart the billabong jetty into Yellow Water and onto South Alligator River, never to be seen again!

    Our Aboriginal guide is the charismatic and fun loving Reuben who’s native family, the Murrumburr people are the traditional owners of Yellow Water and surrounding areas. Reuben says it as it is and tells us that New South Wales Rugby folk are the first to be sent overboard for the crocodiles. Jen stays silent as she doesn’t want to let on she is a mighty magpies fan just in case they’re on the list too and today, an endangered species.

    Reuben talks quickly and is excited when he sees stuff; birds, crocs, fish, buffalo and there’s plenty happening that we are on the edge of our seats. I am on the hunt for a big salt water crocodile or “salty” and Jen is searching for her favourite bird, the Jabiru.

    With snorkel and mask in hand, we quietly slip into the dark foggy reaches of the Yellow Water... just kidding. No way!

    Reuben positions the boat to capture the rising sun and the blanket of fog starts to disappear In the billabong as the birds come to life in abundance. He can recognise all sounds and bird calls and instantaneously identify them and points them out.

    Amongst the birds we see egrets, Kites nesting, kingfishers, snake necked darters, sea eagles and wood ducks and that’s naming a few of many.

    Jen spots a vibrant Lotus flower in the lillies which has many uses in cooking... if you can get your hands on it.

    We spot a few smaller crocodiles mainly submerged within the lillies and close to the river bank but Reuben is after the big one which he spotted a couple of days ago with a 3 metre crocodile in its mouth!. They are fearsome territorial creatures and on the this occasion, the big one ate the little one and left it draping in its mouth on display for a whole day. Don’t mess with me, I’m the boss.

    Crocodiles are the world’s largest living reptile. They are also the most ancient having existed unchanged for 200 million years. Crocodylus porosus or the estuarine crocodile are aggressive and will instinctually attack unsuspecting prey, human or wildlife.

    The Aboriginal name for the salt water crocodile is Ginga so this morning, we are hunting for the 5 metre Ginga. Right on cue, as we turn a corner in the South Alligator River, Big Ginga appears like he was waiting for the boat load of fresh people to arrive and he slowly cruises at boat speed by the side of us.

    Known affectionately as Van Gogh because he had one ear torn off in a fight, he seems calm but on occasion, he cuts the boat off ahead when Reuben tries to turn. He is one smart cookie. I get eye to eye with the croc as I zoom in to capture him close up. This inside of his yellow eye has a narrow slit where he is focused on me and anything else that looks like dinner. This dude survived the dinosaurs so he has my total respect.

    Reuben explains that most white folk who taste crocodile meat say it tastes like chicken but farm raised crocs are fed chicken heads to fill them up. Out here, crocodile tastes like emu, barramundi, bufallo, wallaby, duck and people because that’s what Ginga eats. The Aboriginals also eat the skin of the crocodile, it’s tasty, but we don’t get to taste that as the skin of a farmed croc is a precious commodity for your Goochie bags and the like.

    Captivated by the movement of the croc in the water, I turn as Reuben calls out “Jabiru, right, one o’clock. And there he is, one tall majestic Jabiru with thin bright red stick legs. Jen loves the Jabiru because she was also known for her gangly legs and arms back in her ballet class when she was a kid. So she has a real affinity with the Jabiru and its her spirit bird.

    Brilliant, we have seen a salty croc and a Jabiru in a morning’s work and they are elusive no more.

    Retiring to the billabong and jetty, we are swiftly returned to Cooinda Lodge for an all you can eat buffet breakfast which is a perfect way to end the sunrise tour.

    It doesn’t end there folks. We took advantage of booking on the Sunset Yellow Water boat tour tonight for an extra $25 each so we will get to see a different timeline and capture the birds and wildlife before the setting of the sun. See additional footprint.    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    Sunset on Yellow Water

    28 juin 2019, Australie ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Following on from sunrise, we are back at Yellow Water for a 2 hour sunset cruise. This evening’s entertainment and informative guide to the Yellow Water is Reuben’s brother Dennis. Not sure if Dennis is a Brother Brother, a Brother or just a Brother? What we know is that they are related and are from the same clan, the Murumburr people who have many brothers, sisters, aunts and uncles of the same blood line.

    Dennis is a larger well rounded man with a wide Akubra hat and he likes his geese fat, his buffalo juicy and tender and his favourite recipe is duck curry.

    As Dennis boards the vessel, a passenger on the front row notices something on the brim of his hat. It’s a large Huntsman Spider the size of a hand and Dennis calmly flips it off and we haven’t even started our adventure yet.

    The sun is still relatively high and hot at 4.30pm but there’s a different vibe to the place and everything is brighter and the yellow water is shining well... yellow. Reason, the Melaleuca tree roots have created a yellow tinge to the water.

    Straight away we spot a dominant male ”Max the croc” on the banks of the Billiabong and within moments, the adrenaline is up and it’s all happening again...

    Nine o’clock, Sea Eagles pitched on a dead tree branch, one o’clock, Wild Horses behind the scrub protecting a foal, eleven o’clock a lone Brown Kite in the tree, wait on is that a snake in the tree as well, three o’clock, Wood Ducks with their tiger like markings, twelve o’clock in the distance, wild Buffalo grazing, above and on the move, a large Jabiru in flight which looks like a Terradactyle, one thirty upstream, a group of ducks are spooked by something, probably a croc and take off on mass into the sunset.

    Phew, let’s take a breath for a moment.

    Dennis spots a large male crocodile fully out on the left river bank. He’s impressive in size and we get so close to him on the bank that one could reach out and almost touch. Not so quick, he spotted us well before we spotted him and his eyes are following our every move so careful, his reaction time is like lightening. The croc is a new male to the area and Dennis tells us there’s about 300 crocs per 1km stretch of water so if you fall in, chances are, you be eaten.

    The large male croc suddenly turns, pitches his head up and opens his mammoth jaws as a sign of aggression, don’t mess with me kind of look. Well is there any other look???

    Jen manages to get a shot of me with my back to the croc and I think she was strategically moving me closer and hesitating with the camera settings and focus... “just take the shot”.

    The sun has reached the point where it drops quickly on the horizon so after two hours which seems like 30 seconds, we head back to Yellow Water billabong to sit still, sit quiet and take in sunset. The occasional bird is making its last call from the grasslands and everything has turned peaceful and calm.

    Myself and Jen are totally exhausted from all the excitement on the Yellow Water Cruise today. Dawn till dusk, It’s been a blast. We get dropped off at the resort again and treat ourselves to battered Barramundi and chips from the food van at the resort as a dinner treat.

    Kakadu has been an amazing place, a 2.4 billion year old place where you have to sit still, take it all in and appreciate the abundance of wildlife, the spirit of Dreamtime and a 65,000 year old Aboriginal culture that still follow the same stories and traditions today.

    Bobo.    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    Katherine... Deja Vu

    29 juin 2019, Australie ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Yeah right... I think we’ve been here before. In fact this is our fourth visit to Katherine on our trip. The first after crossing from the East Coast and up the middle, the 2nd after blowing a tyre on the campervan 30km north of Katherine so a return visit, the third as we drove down from Darwin turning west towards Kimberley and the Gibb and the fourth today driving from Kakadu.

    DRIVE: Cooinda Lodge to Katherine, Nitmuluk National Park via Edith Falls (300km).

    After reaching the Stuart Highway from Kakadu Highway, we turn right instead of left and visit the little community of Pine Creek, just up the road. For a place in the middle of nowhere, it punches well above its weight and The Railway Resort has a trendy cafe/restaurant that is encapsulating in the design of a locomotive. The railway and industry has played an important role in Pine Creek so there’s a fair bit of infrastructure and facilities. We tuck into home made beef pies for brunch.

    From Pine Creek, we head down the Stuart Highway and before reaching Katherine, we side track to visit Edith Falls. It’s a pretty place with a wide open lagoon fed by a small waterfall which in turn is fed by a bigger one further upstream.

    Edith Falls is the finishing point for the 6 day Jatbulla trail/hike which starts at Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge). We have done our big hike for this trip on Hinchenbrook so we’re relieved that we are not doing this one. A pleasant swim out to the base of the falls is the order for the day. I try catching a lift on a turtles back but Jen throws me off straight away.

    Edith Falls has a cafe and is a popular camping area which is filling up fast. Today is the start of the school holidays so we are expecting things to get a bit busier from here on in. We are staying at Katherine Gorge so that we can experience the gorge on our doorstep so after being refreshed at Edith Falls, we move on.

    Next stop is Katherine town centre for some supplies. I visit BWS (Beers, Wines and Spirits) for red wine, corona and cider. Two police men are inside the store checking the id of everyone wanting to buy alcohol. I hand over my driver’s license and the police officer asks me where I will be consuming. Well in me van of course and he lets me on my way. Obviously there are many problems associated with alcohol and the Aboriginal community so the police are enforcing strict protocol.

    CAMP: Nitmuluk Caravan Park / 2 Nights

    Less that 30km from Katherine centre is Nitmiluk National Park and the start of Katherine Gorge. We are staying two nights here, one to chill and one to explore the gorge.

    Jen enquires at the ranger’s office about using our kayaks to explore Katherine Gorge. Well yes we can but gorge one is off limits due to the sighting of a salt water crocodile and personal kayaks are not allowed on the ferry to gorge two, only hired ones. So the only way is to carry our kayaks 6km to gorge two. That sounds a bit dumb so to kayak Katherine Gorge, we would have to hire them for 80 bucks each.

    No worries, we decide to book on a 4 hour morning cruise of three of the gorges instead and sit back, rest up and just enjoy. Besides, we get fed and watered and it will be an easier way to take photos. So that’s what we are doing tomorrow.

    With campervan all set up, we walk to the boat ramp at the start of gorge one and follow a pathway and steep steps leading up to a view overlooking the river.

    The sun is perfect for a bit of theatrical fun so we take some shots of our shadows on the sandstone rock. It’s our version of spirit rock art. I am the of course the spirit of siesta time and Jen is the spirit of book reading. We try Peter Pan and Wendy but my personal favourite is the gun to the head shot and there’s one of Jen being like a Jabiru, her spirit bird.

    As we start to head back down from the lookout, from across the river and over the ridge of the sandstone cliffs we hear what sounds like, well a dinosaur. It just didn’t sound like any other wildlife we had heard before and we both look at each other in bewilderment and surprise. “what was that”.

    Back at camp, a female country and western singer/guitarist is playing great old time music set up around the pool/bar area. It’s a great vibe as we listen from our campsite whilst we enjoy a home made chicken Korma curry and a glass of red.

    I think Kakadu has mellowed us out a bit and taught us the importance of just sitting and contemplating with no clutter. That’s cool cos I like to either go all out or chill out.

    Speaking of chilling, yesterday a German bloke says hello, how’s your day to me and I reply “just chillin” to which he replies “why are you so cold, it’s 30 degrees”.    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    Timeless Katherine Gorge Cruise

    30 juin 2019, Australie ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We have reached the last day of June and already suffered through one month of winter at a chilling 30 degrees every day. In fact, we last saw rainfall in Darwin on 18th May. It was warm last night too so neither of us got the best of sleeps.

    This morning we make our way to Katherine Gorge jetty and the start of our 4 hour Katherine Gorge “timeless land” cruise. The bats are still squarking in the trees. We are travelling through three gorges that are separated by dry rock and boulders this time of the year so we have to boat hop.

    the naming of Katherine Gorge is rather uninspiring although we can agree, Katherine is a beautiful name. It was named after the second daughter of a wealthy entrepreneur and Pastoralist James Chambers Esq. He funded an exploration of the area by John McDouall Stuart in 1862. One of his other daughters is named Edith, hence, Edith Falls down the road.

    I think we passed a dry creek bed on our way through so we’ll have that, “Jaime’s Creek”. She can add that to “Jaime’s Bar”.

    The Aboriginal name for Katherine Gorge is Nitmiluk and the Jawoyn clan are traditional owners and custodians of this timeless land.

    Now Katherine Gorge is part of the Arnhem Sandstone Plateau which runs all the way from the top end of Kakadu and Arnhem Land. Katherine river runs all year but can peak up to 15m higher than the current level during the wet season.

    There are a few lazy fresh water crocodiles on the banks and we see protected sandy areas where they lay their eggs. Only 1% of all crocodile eggs survive and make it to adulthood. We don’t see any other wildlife of note on the cruise and most wildlife is active teal early in the morning or before sunset. 9.00am is like an afternoon snooze to them to escape the heat. Except for us human folk...

    The second gorge is the most impressive with taller ridge lines and vertical sandstone walls. Occasionally, a fault line on one side of the gorge where the sandstone has fractured is replicated on the opposite side of the river. In these pockets, plants and trees thrive.

    Back at the section between gorge one and two are a couple of swimming holes. They are cold and shallow but Jen takes the plunge as I take up my important role as a vertical life guard from the rocks. The Jawoyn people are not allowed to fish swim or drink these waters as they may disturb Bolung, the Rainbow Searpant and his spirit may cause lightening or a great Monsoon. We apparently are ok though.

    The camp ground is a buzz when we return as there are two year nine school groups setting up camp, both from Melbourne, Wantirna College and Brentwood Secondary College. They are travelling up the centre to Darwin and back and have set up their Nomadic tents in circles with the boys in one hemisphere and the girls in the other. That’s a lot of mouths to feed and keep happy.    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    Don't Mess With The Devil's Marbles

    1 juillet 2019, Australie ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We’ve packed up super early this morning from Katherine Gorge and hit the road to make some distance. Our original plan was to split the distance to Alice Springs and stay at Banka Banka Station tonight, a 602km drive. We stayed at Banka Banka on the way up in May and got eaten by flies. Remember Jen wearing her fly and mozzie net over her head and face. So we decide to keep going and give the aeroguard a rest.

    DRIVE: Katherine Gorge to The Devils Marbles (798km).

    We push on to reach The Devils Marbles about 100km south of Tennant Creek to see sunset and wake up to a colourful sunrise. So our distance is 800km door to door inclusive of a 2km detour. Its dead quiet for traffic heading our way south and busy with a procession of migrating caravans heading north for the warmth. People look at us as if we are mad, travelling south at this time of the year, you’ve lost ya marbles... i just thought of that one so snook it in.

    On our way, we stop at Daly Waters, a famous pub just off the Stuart Highway (2km), a couple of hours south of Katherine. It’s a crazy place with trophy bras draping everywhere, thongs hanging from rope lines, tee shirts, hats, old car number plates, you name it, people have likely left it here. What is it with human behaviour? I think the aliens saw this place and decided to hyperspace the hell out of here... It quite a fun place actually if you like that sort of thing. There’s interesting people from all walks of life who come here to stay in the caravan park just for the pub. Check out the petrol station across the road from the pub.

    We order a refreshment at the bar, drink it quick like and hyperspace the hell out of here. (not great English on porpoise, it sets the scene well).

    There’s plenty of petrol stops every 150-200km on our way south so we fuel up when we need it.

    We pass Banka Banka Station which looks busy, then Three Ways intersection and find ourselves on unchartered bitumen and 30km to Tennant Creek. Rumour has it that Tennant Creek is the only place in Australia where it’s advised to leave ya engine running whilst filling up with petrol? So we fill up and get the hell out a there too.

    CAMP: The Devils Marbles / 1 Night

    Another 113km of lazer straight road and we arrive at The Devils Marbles and roll in at 4.45pm, an hour and a bit before sunset. There’s a camping site here, a place to stop over for the night and well, everyone’s stopping over. it’s more like a parking lot and the place is jam packed with caravans, tents and even people sleeping on the dirt and gravel. I know it’s a bit late but there must be a spot for us. We drive a loop and it looks grim, then i spot a narrow slot between a few dividing posts and a caravan. Basically we have squeezed in on a spot that has a fire pit in it and we are parked right next to the fire pit. Hope no one starts a fire here tonight otherwise we will be up in smoke.

    The Devils Marbles are a collection of huge, red, rounded granite boulders. This place is quite surreal and out of this world. The boulders have been calved by nature over millions of years into hundreds of roundish marbles 360 degrees as far as the eye can see. it’s a magical backdrop for a setting sun and the shadows and colours amongst the marbles create quite an atmosphere. The sky is devoid of clouds, just fading blue sky, dark red rock, green spinifex and a falling orange sun.

    This is a sacred Aboriginal site known by the local Warumungu Aboriginals as Karlu Karlu and there are many culturally sensitive areas in and around what we call the Devils Marbles.

    So why the Devils Marbles?. Well the marble bit is straight forward as the ancient round granite rocks look like marbles, but the devil... The origin of the English name for the boulders is the following quote:

    This is the Devil’s country; he’s even emptied his bag of marbles around the place! - John Ross, Australian Overland Telegraph Line expedition, 1870. Devils Marbles it is then.

    We take a walk and follow many a well trodden path that leads through the marbles. Some of the landscape is easy to climb up on for a better vantage point offering spectacular views.

    Another great sunset to cherish as we watch the marbles turn from warm ocre to dark red, then black.

    It’s time for dinner. The campsite doesn’t have tap water and it’s BYO. We have very little water left so I empty my drink bottle into a pan to cook some potatoes to go with chicken kiev. It’s a desperate situation, we are forced to replace water with red wine to drink and I know it sounds extravagant but we will have to wash the dishes with... soda water.

    We are in the Northern Territory and in NT, you can buy fireworks and set them off, unlike other states where it’s illegal. From behind a caravan in the camp comes a rocket and a loud bang followed by short bursts of fireworks and cheers from the kids. Obviously dad has spared no expense buying his stash of fireworks and the show is greatly appreciated by all, all be it a little scattered in between setting off fireworks as he manually lights them.

    I hope the fireworks haven’t woken up the spirits and messed with the devil. We could all be turned into stone (marbles) by the night’s end.

    Tired from driving, it’s an early night but now that we have made distance, we can hang around in the morning and explore the Devils Marbles some more.

    One by one, the open fires die out, caravan lights are turned off, the place is deathly silent and wow, there’s a billion stars in the night sky.

    Its eerily quiet, like all the people in their caravans have been taken (empty) and the place has no sound and no signs of life. Except at about midnight, there’s sounds breaking the silence coming from a number of cars close by. The black Kites have risen and someone’s out there trying their luck to find an unlocked car door. I see a flash light too so i get up and stand in the darkness shining my torch to rat them out. It goes deadly silent once more...    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    The Devils Rise & The Road to Alice

    2 juillet 2019, Australie ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Daylight returns so i go sit on a rock overlooking the Devils Marbles and the camp ground and wait for the sun to rise. it’s cold this morning and not what we are used to. The sun is dragging its heals a bit so I climb back down and go make myself a coffee and return with warmer hands.

    I am just after a good shot of the line of caravans with the backdrop of the marbles. The sun finally rises and instantaneously, the Devils Marbles waken and light up.

    Within minutes, the people down below in their caravans rise too and reappear and one by one start packing up and moving on. This place is like a daily tidal movement, it floods caravans in the mid afternoon, then by the next morning, the tide goes out and there’s practically no one left.

    We hang around a little as we have 414km to go to reach Alice Springs so no rush this morning.

    DRIVE: Devils Marbles to Alice Springs (414km).

    As often is the case, we stop off on route, usually at a roadhouse to top up on fuel. The total length of the Stuart Highway is just over 2,800km from Port Augusta to Darwin and roughly follows John McDouall Sturt’s route when he travelled across the continent in 1860s. So the roadhouses are an important break and are often a bit quirky to entice you off the road.

    Barrow Creek is one of four remaining telegraph stations in Australia and an important part of Australia’s pioneering history. (see tomorrow’s footprint to learn about the telegraph). Jen takes a peak inside the station whilst I fill up with fuel at the Barrow Creek pub (where else?). A sign says “please pay for fuel at the bar”. Being midday, it’s quiet at the bar but they have a good little business going on. Wall to wall there are money notes of all currency and denomination, each one signed by their previous owner and pinned up on the walls. Some go back years and some are recent currency and there’s a fair bit of Aussie dollar in there too. I have no cash of my own and ask if they take credit card for the fuel. All good.

    Further down the track, we see a sign for Aileron Roadhouse. Aileron is about 150km north of Alice Springs and includes a roadhouse, accommodation and an art gallery, but these features are completely overshadowed by two massive statues.

    High on the hill behind the roadhouse is the first of two giant statues next to a Hollywood style sign for AILERON. The Anmatjere Man, or Big Aboriginal stands 17 meters tall and weighs about 8 tonnes. The Anmatjere Woman And Child stands to the side of the roadhouse and equally impressive.

    With 150km to go to Alice Springs, i look on the sat nav and basically see two straight road lines with one gentle curve in between. Its the home straight but the road goes monotonously on and on and it just gets lost on the horizon until finally we see a sign for Alice. I am looking at the fuel gauge and it’s going down whilst Jen is looking at the temperature gauge and well, it’s going down too and it didn’t get over 23 degrees today even though the sun was beaming and the skies were a flawless blue.

    CAMP: Alice Springs Holiday Park / 3 Nights
    We are well on track so will take a break for a few days in Alice before pushing on to Uluru (Ayres Rock). There’s lots to explore in Alice Springs and The Ghan comes in at the railway station on Thursday so looking forward to that.

    Jen has every item of clothing on including her beanie and i make hot water bottles for bedtime as tonight the temperature will drop to three degrees. Brrrrrrrr!    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    The Kangaroo Sanctuary, Alice Springs

    3 juillet 2019, Australie ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    The best thing about travelling is when we get to make new footprints, explore places that we have never been before and find something unique along the way.

    Meet Brolga, a 6 foot 7 inch gentle giant who looks a bit like Indiana Jones. Originally from Western Australia, Chris ‘Brolga’ Barns’ life changed as a tour guide many years ago when he found a dead female red kangaroo on the side of the road and in its pouch was a baby Joey still alive.

    Brolga took the Joey and wrapped it up in a pillow case. The baby kangaroo would have died without its mum so Brolga spent the next 24 hours with little sleep, hugging the joey in the made up pouch close to his chest for warmth and feeding it to keep the Joey alive..

    From that day, Brolga’s destiny had changed and he had a mission to save and care for injured or orphaned kangaroos to one day hopefully release them back into the wild. Basically Brolga is a kangaroo mum and he has reared and raised hundreds of orphan baby kangaroos since that first precious encounter.

    So in 2005, he created a baby kangaroo rescue centre here in Alice Springs and started saving little orphans. In 2011 he set up a 188 acre kangaroo sanctuary in added Central Australia’s first kangaroo rescue centre in 2015.

    The rescue centre’s motto is “Animals Come First” and he personally runs kangaroo sanctuary sunset tours Tuesday to Friday so we feel really privileged to enjoy this experience tonight.

    Now Brolga is a very kind and generous man and he believes that the only way to inspire and educate others about his mission is to be hands on and experience holding a Joey for ourselves. At that point, Jen melts and gets excited at the prospect of holding a baby kangaroo.

    So now meet Foxy and Chester “so cute”. The orphans are 14 months old Red Kangaroos which are common in central Australia. At this age, they still need constant attention so over in the baby kangaroo rescue centre, there’s currently 10 joeys needing 24 hour care and Brolga does the night shift Monday to Friday with help during the day and weekends.

    Baby kangaroos get stressed if they are separated from their mum or away from other kangaroos for a period of time so they need mates. Jen is the perfect mate.

    Jen waits her turn as Brolga leads us through the sanctuary with kangaroo feed to meet his other kangaroos, each one friendly, soft and gentle. Each Kangaroo has a name and Brolga knows each one even from a distance.

    Brolga explains that the sanctuary is only for those red kangaroos that can’t be released into the wild due to injuries, age or the fact that they love humans too much and have lost their survival instinct. So the sanctuary is for a minority including baby orphan kangaroos as most kangaroos are eventually released back into the wild. He currently has 56 kangaroos and the 10 Joeys.

    Most importantly, Brolga explains that if you see a dead kangaroo at the side of the road, there’s a chance that there may be a live joey still inside, waiting to be rescued. Not many folk know this and we usually pass by without a thought. Due to the mother’s strong muscles lining her pouch, it protects the joey from bouncing out from an impact, often even if the roo has been hit by a car.

    So stop and check and if you find a baby kangaroo inside a pouch, grab a pillow case, be it’s mum and look after it until you can get it to a rescue centre.

    It’s Jen’s turn to hold Foxy. He’s tiny and still weighs very little so she cuddles him close. Quietly, I think they are both keeping each other warm. I get a turn and the joey gives me a kiss cos i’m obviously the favourite...

    As we walk some more we stop at a gravesite and memorial for Brolgas favourite and most infamous kangaroo, Roger (2006-2018). Roger was a giant male red kangaroo and leader of the mob. He was as tall, if not slightly taller than Brolga at 6ft 7’ when upright which caused a problem. Being the dominant male kangaroo, Roger always considered Brolga competition and a threat so was always ambushing him, fighting and chasing him around the reserve.

    Roger had exceptional muscle definition. He was strong enough to crush an ice bucket and was a black belt kick boxer with a fearsome kick. In fact, the International Body Building Championship sent Roger a certificate and gold medal for his amazing physique. His image is famous around the world and even today he features on many a product advertisement for which the kangaroo sanctuary receives royalty’s from.

    In 2013, a documentary called Kangaroo Dundee was made by BBC UK / National Geographic USA and follows the interesting lives of the mob of rescue kangaroos and other wildlife. The documentary is shown in over 90 countries and a great way to promote wildlife conservation.

    https://kangaroosanctuary.com/about/brolga-kang…

    Nearing the end of our 2 hour tour, it’s time to hand back the baby kangaroos who have been passed on for everyone in the group to cuddle. Well guess who’s holding little Baby Chester to the very end. Of course it’s Jen and she reluctantly hands him back to Brolga as we get on the tour bus back to Alice Springs town centre.

    Well i think she gave him back. what’s that bump in the front of Jen’s jacket. Didn’t notice that before...    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    The First Telegraph From Alice

    4 juillet 2019, Australie ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    In 1990, computer scientist Tim Berners-Lee invented the World Wide Web we depend on today. Before then, back in 1876 Alexander Graham Bell was controversially credited with inventing the first practical telephone and indeed, he made the first call.

    Further back, when Samuel Morse invented Morse Code in 1838, he created a revolution in communication and the electric telegraph was born. So why is this important?

    Well before we get to that, as I type on my mobile keyboard, tap, tap, tap, I realise that modern communication has largely gone from Morse Code, tap, tap, tap to, amazing, we can actually speak to someone on the other end of a line, then we went back to tap, tap, tap and our use of txting. Have we really made any progress since the telegraph. After all, I could equally order a pizza with a telegraph as i could with a txt... It was the global internet of the early 19th century.

    So this info is important because we are in Alice Springs and at the Alice Springs Telegraph Station, historically the most central communication hub between Adelaide and Darwin and indeed the whole of Australia. The station here is one of four remaining Telegraph Stations, another of which we had visited in Barrow Creek on the way to Alice. Alice Springs connected Adelaide to Darwin and the rest of the world.

    Australia’s first telegraph line was erected in 1854 between Melbourne and Port Melbourne. In 1862 John McDouall Stuart successfully crossed the continent and pathed the way for a telegraph line. Australia’s isolation from the rest of the world ended in 1871 when a cable was laid across the Indian Ocean to the North Coast and this created the urgency to connect Adelaide to Darwin via a single 3000km Overland Telegraph Line (OT line).

    Charles Todd, South Australian superintendent of telegraphs masterminded the work to be done in three sections, North, South and Central. Given such remote and harsh country to navigate, the OT line was miraculously completed for the start of 1872, pioneering the way to a. new frontier.

    The first telegraph from Alice Springs to Adelaide was sent on 3rd January 1872. It carried the somber news that CW Craegan had died from thirst 100km down the line in the December heat. He had been travelling to Alice Springs to take up the position of Stationmaster.

    Originally the township of Stuart, Alice is named after the wife of the now (Sir) Charles Todd and the telegraph station is located by a waterhole, hence, Alice Springs.

    So as we explore the history in the telegraph station, I decide to test my theory and order a pizza using morse code. Here it is.

    P. I. Z. Z. A
    . —- —- . . —- —- .. —- —- .. . —-

    ok so it took me a while and i haven’t even added my delivery address yet. Give up, We grab a coffee instead at the Telegraph Cafe and I “tap” my credit card just the once.

    Now Alice Springs has lots of things to do and explore but as we are in slow down mode, we just choose a couple, The art gallery and Alice Springs Aviation Museum are across the road so we go visit them. However, I am excited as this afternoon, The Ghan train is coming into town from Adelaide. I enthusiastically grab Jen and we make our way to the train station an hour before arrival... ok, maybe a bit too enthusiastic, and we wait for the Ghan to arrive.

    The Ghan Railway was originally called the Afghan Express after the 19th century Afgan camel riders who helped explore outback Australia.

    Its long, very long and slowly sweeps around the corner on the train track into the station. If i were at the back of the train, i’d be ordering an Uber to get me up to the station platform... it’s that long. The Ghan is going north to Darwin, to the warmth we have left behind and Jen looks tempted to board as Alice is a bit cold for her. I then commence to tie her to the train tracks!    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur
    1

    To Climb Uluru (Ayers Rock) Or Not

    5 juillet 2019, Australie ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    After a 440km drive from Alice Springs, we arrive at Yulara, which is home to the Ayers Rock Resort and the camp ground, our base for three nights to explore Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. Being school holidays, the camp ground is the busiest place ever with a procession of cars and caravans lined up to check in or to try and get a spot. Every spot is pretty much taken with caravans and tents claiming there patch of land.

    Before we arrived, I kept trying the resorts website which was full, looking for an upgrade from our one night in an unpowered van site and two nights in our freezing cold tent. Voila, three nights powered site came up so I grabbed it and at least we can put the heater on. Winter daytime temperatures here can still be warm and always sunny but it can drop to 0 degrees at night.

    We finally get to visit Uluru (Ayres Rock), up close and personal. We are both excited and the rock just draws you in as it’s such an awe inspiring and spiritual place.

    Uluru is a massive 550 million year old sandstone monolith in the heart of the Northern Territory’s arid red centre. It’s a sacred place to the Pitjantjatjara and Yankunytjatjara cultures collectively known as the Anangu people who are the traditional owners. Uluru sits within Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, which also includes the 36 red-rock domes of the Kata Tjuta (The Olgas).

    Now jointly named Ayres Rock, Uluru since 1985, the British surveyor William Gosse was the first European to discover the monolith in 1872. He named it Ayers Rock after the former South Australia Premier, Sir Henry Ayers. The name is iconic but like many other places of interest and cultural significance in Australia, Ayres Rock is named after someone’s surname just because of their nobility. William Goose must have owed him a favour or two, big time!

    Many places however are slowly acknowledging the aboriginal heritage and are either being renamed their rightful aboriginal name or have dual names like Ayers Rock Uluru. I suppose Goose Rock doesn’t have the same ring to it but if the Premier of South Australia’s name would have been Walsh, I guess I would be proudly calling it Walsh Rock instead.

    As we drive the road in, the rock is even bigger and more amazing than we had ever imagined and we are still 13km away from the base. We reach the entrance to the National Park and pay the $50 for a three day pass.

    The dirt is real red out here and such a contrast to the spinifex and the bush flora. Jen has been collecting dirt on our travels so she adds a handful to her collection. I have plenty of dirt on my clothes she can have!

    The colours of the rock change constantly and stand out imposingly against the blue sky with sections of contrasting sun and shade from every angle. It feels like the rock is alive. You just get the sense that this is a special place and being desert country, we are remote as can be in the middle of Australia.

    I have been thinking about the climbing of Ayres Rock and whether or not I should do it. Jen had made up her mind not to climb a long time ago out of respect for the wishes of the Anangu People. I however wanted to first dig a bit deeper and understand the reasons why people choose to climb it or not.

    From 26th October 2019 the climb to the top of Uluru will be banned once and for all to respect the Anangu people’s wishes. So during this peak holiday season, everyone is turning up with FOMO (fear of missing out) to climb the rock. It’s apparently a high priority bucket list item and the procession of climbers are like a colony of ants making their way up the rock face. It makes for one busy resort too and the line for the showers is almost as long as the line to climb the rock.

    The Anangu people have long requested that visitors not clamber over their sacred site and the signs at the base of Uluru urge visitors to do the right thing, show respect and don’t climb the rock. People read the signs, then do it anyway. More than 30 people have passed away whilst climbing Ayers Rock and the Anangu people get extremely sad when a death occurs on their sacred land.

    The story of Wati Lungkata teaches not to disrespect the rock. (Wati Lungkata the blue-tongue lizard man was greedy and dishonest. He camped in a cave on the rock and stole a wounded emu from hunters. The hunters set a fire that burned Wati Lungkata up. Gulp, we don’t want to be burnt alive!!!

    Increasingly, travellers have been paying attention and in 2015, only 16 per cent of visitors climbed the rock. That is a significant change from the 1990s, when 75 per cent of visitors took it on. We are experiencing a surge at the moment as it seems most people are going up as the last chance to climb it comes to an end. We all have our choices and in the end, it’s a test of respect vs self fulfilment.

    So I turned to the 2013 film “The Secret Life of Walter Mitty” and a scene that captured my imagination. You need to check out the scene or even the movie to better get the idea.

    https://youtu.be/JfjkiTB1fHQ

    Now Walter Mitty (Ben Stiller) is a Negative Asset Manager For LIFE magazine and is searching for a missing photographic negative for the front cover of the magazine. He eventually tracks down the photographer Sean O'Connell (SEAN Penn) in the Himalayas, and finds him quietly waiting for days for a chance to see and photograph an extremely rare snow leopard.

    On finally sighting the leopard in his zoom lens, this rare moment in life has arrived, but he doesn’t take the shot and simply appreciates the beauty of the animal in the moment.

    That’s kinda how I feel about climbing Ayres rock
    and why in the end I am happy not to do it.

    Its a good thing to Respect the Anangu People’s wishes. So I sit quietly away from the tourist lines, take in the energy and beauty of the rock and appreciate Uluru in the moment. Not everything in life needs to be conquered just because we can.

    Well what does all this mean? It means we’re bloody walking around Uluru instead and its a long 10km hike but we enjoy seeing the many aspects of the rock including the sacred cultural sites. Hey there goes a segway group riding past. That looks a fun way to do it.

    As we start in a clockwise direction, we find a rock overhang that displays rock art on the wall like a chalkboard in a clasroom. Its a place for learning where the aboriginal children essentially went to school to learn about their culture. Now that an old school!

    Close by, there’s different cave like formations that provided separate areas for the aboriginal men, women, elders and children. Although the Aboriginal culture is integrated though traditions and culture, the different gender and age groups have important distinctive roles within their tribe.

    It takes a couple of hours to walk the base of the Uluru but it’s peaceful especially on the back side of the rock where the cooler shade and shadows on the rock dominate. There are fewer tourists here too.

    We are back at the camp ground and whilst everyone is queuing up to climb the rock, we take advantage of no queues at the showers. Apparently last night there were queues for the showers at 11.30pm.    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    Sounds Of Silence Sunset Uluru

    6 juillet 2019, Australie ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    For a change, we are polished and clean and wearing smart casual clothes, a few steps above our normal attire of shorts and teeshirts stained with red dirt.

    Tonight we are experiencing The Sound Of Silence Sunset Dinner at Uluru. It’s a must do thing if you are visiting the rock and wanting a bit of outback candlelight indulgence.

    Jen has packed her thermal gear just in case and lots of layers as it does get cold once the sun sets.

    The AAT Kings coach picks us up outside the campground at 4.50pm and we are taken to a private location, not too far from Yulara centre but down a dirt track that is off limits unless you are on the tour. Like every night, the coach is full and there are other combined tours too that will experience the Sounds of Silence.

    We arrive at our private location and are directed up a a small hill by our hosts to a viewing area and immediately provided with a glass of champagne.

    In the distance sits Uluru and behind us, the sun is starting to set. It’s a fairly cloudy night tonight but there are a thousand shades of colour reaching over the landscape and into the sky. Everywhere is so vibrant and full of life. Blink and the colours change. We can also see The Olga’s on the far right hand horizon which are a good 50km away.

    Normally the sunset lights up Ayres Rock before it disappears but tonight, the clouds obscure the light but never the less it create an impressive backdrop. We are quickly into more champagne, then beer and a glass of red before our hosts welcome us to the Sounds of Silence and invite us down the hill to the sounds of a didgeridoo to our outdoor candlelit tables.

    We join a family from Brisbane who have settled in Australia from America. They still have a soft American accent but they have adopted the lifestyle of the Aussie with gusto.

    There’s one natural born Aussie in the family, Jasmine (Jazz) who is priceless and is married to one of the brothers, James with a crazy moustache. Sam is the younger brother at 22 and then there’s mum and dad. They are fun and although there are others on our table, myself and Jen latch onto them as they do to us and I don’t think we stopped having a laugh all the way through the evening. It supposed to be the Sounds of Silence dinner but after a few more glasses or red, our table was by far the loudest group and it quickly became the Sounds of Laughter.

    Our host, Daniel was a tall handsome man with a well groomed beard from New York. He’s a musician so we encourage him to serenade our table with a soulful classic.

    The food tonight is Australian bush inspired and laid on as a buffet. There’s crocodile, kangaroo, barramundi and everyone’s favourite, lamb chops plus plenty of salads and bush vegetables. It’s a plate full but everything is super tasty with subtle hints of Australian bush tucker flavours infused through each dish.

    The shiraz seems to be flowing quicker on our table than any other and I think we are all a bit merry. It’s not even that cold tonight so no need to wrap up.

    Before dessert, the candlelight’s go out and we look up to the dark sky for some star gazing. It’s not very clear but with a laser torch beaming into the sky, our host points out Jupiter, Saturn Orion’s Belt and and of course the Southern Cross. Where’s Leo The Lion shouts Jen with a slightly slurred speech. So the host point his lazer beam to a place in the sky at a cloud where Leo The Lion would be. Jen’s happy now.

    Lights back on and dessert is served. We are treated to an assortment of treats finished with subtle hints of bush fruit and by this stage it was way too difficult to name them... hick!

    All over too soon, we board the coach for our return to camp, everyone singing silly classics like “We are the champions” as we go.

    it’s a great night and something very unique and different to add to our memories of this trip.    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    The Olgas And The Field Of Lights

    7 juillet 2019, Australie ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We had intended getting up early before sunrise and driving out to The Olgas but a few things put us off the idea.

    1. It’s dark and freezing this morning and bed is too cozy to get out of.
    2. We are a bit ginger from last night’s Sound of Silence Dinner so a lie in is in order.
    3. It’s 50km to the sunrise spot and that equates to 40 minutes of precious sleep time.

    You get the idea...

    Never the less, we are up and about not long after 9.00am. So we load up the fridge cooler with roast chicken, a loaf of bread and some salad and drinks and hit the road for the drive to The Olgas.

    Like Uluru, we can see The Olgas in the distance and being 50km away, they look impressive already. As we approach a lookout still 10km away, we stop to admire a full view of the front taking in the whole width with the bush desert in front of them.

    It’s not until we approach the carpark and the start of a couple of walking trails that we realise these boulder shaped formations are on an epic scale, more like giant sculptures than mere rock.

    Anangu call this extraordinary landscape feature Kata Tjuta meaning “many heads”. The Anangu people believe it was made in the Tjukurpa (creation time) back in the beginning so it’s a very sacred place.

    Unlike Uluru which is one solid structure and a base to walk around (monolith), The Olgas are a series of independent sandstone structures that have pathways in and around them which lead to hidden valleys and lookouts. The valleys and landscapes in between the boulders showcase a range of vegetation due to the variations in sunlight and shady areas.

    As we walk up and between two rocks, the wind whips through the Olgas like someone’s just turned the air conditioning on. At this time of the year, even though it’s warm and sunny, the whirling wind is quite crisp.

    We decide to do the 7.4km wind valley hike. Most people just do a couple of lookouts then head back but for an extra few km, the reward is worth it. It doesn’t sound much of a challenge but the terrain is rocky on foot and for hotter days, there’s warning signs requesting that hikers don’t attempt the circuit if it’s above 36 degrees. Well its 10.00am and I don’t think we will get past 27 degrees today and we have tackled some tougher terrain on this trip so we are good to go.

    We follow the rocky pathway which leads up hill towards two giant boulder formations and it seems there’s no way through. However, the path snakes around and in between the formations to expose a small green valley floor surrounded by towering boulder rocks on every side. There’s a steep wider section that runs up between two Olgas and the deep blue of the sky at the top of the hill is inviting us up.

    Traversing the rocks, we reach the top to be greeted with a stunning aerial view of a wider lush green valley below defined by sheer sandstone walls on either side of us and more bright orange Olgas in the distance. The view, I would say is one of the best I have seen on this trip as it’s so ancient and remote, yet vibrant, green and alive. Surely dinosaurs are roaming about down there. Its got that feel about it. My photos don’t do it justice but they give an idea of how epic the view is.

    We follow the trail down into the valley below which opens up with desert sands and green bush trees dotting the landscape as far as the horizon. It’s not a difficult hike and for the most part the valley is flat or slightly undulating.

    I like the feel of this place and unlike walking the base of Uluru, it feels like you can get easily lost here between the giant boulders so it adds a bit of excitement to the mix.

    After completing the circuit, we are back at the carpark before midday and car loads of people have turned up. We are a little hungry so drive to a picnic area with views of The Olgas. There’s a long wooden picnic bench set up under a shelter where a large group of folk are preparing communal lunch. There’s so many flies, just everywhere that the group are getting fly sandwiches for lunch and it’s hopeless. So we head back to the car, turn on the air con and make our chicken and salad sandwiches in isolation, and eat them away from the pesky flies.

    On he way back to Yulara, we visit the Aboriginal Cultural Centre at the foot of Uluru. Two senior Aboriginal women are sat on the floor in the art gallery doing dot paintings. What strikes me is that apart from two young girls working at the camp ground reception, the artist women are the first indigenous people we have come across at Uluru. We haven’t seen any tour guides or workers, they’re all white fella, and we haven’t seen any indigenous folk promoting their culture.

    Back at camp by 2.00pm, it’s siesta time and we really do need the rest before our evenings activity, The Field Of Lights.

    when Jen booked the Field Of Lights, they only had a star pass left which means we have to suffer pre drinks and canapés whilst taking in another Uluru sunset in an exclusive desert location before the light show begins. It’s hard work indulging in champagne and Kangaroo sliders watching the sun go down on one of the great natural wonders of the world.

    So what are The Field Of Lights. There you go, it’s basically “a field full of lights” or in this case, a remote desert bush full of thousands of glittering lights that change colour to reflect the outback and create a mood map on the landscape.

    The Field Of Lights came about from a vision and an idea that the now internationally celebrated artist Bruce Munro had many years ago when visiting this region. He was attracted by the changing colours of the landscape and wanted to interpret this though art and light.

    The exhibition, aptly named Tili Wiru Tjuta Nyakutjaku or ‘looking at lots of beautiful lights’ in local Pitjantjatjara covers more than seven football fields with 50,000 spindles of light, the stems breathing and swaying through a desert spectrum of ochre, deep violet, blue and gentle white.

    Jen’s favourite colour is purple and as we slowly walks through the field of lights, each time we are nearing a purple section, it changes colour. Someone’s pushing a button, I swear... No, they’re just random lights that change colours creating what looks like a living work of art.

    Bruce Munro has many installations around the world but this one is by far the biggest and the only one that is completely self sufficient as it runs on solar.

    The Field of Lights is running until the end of 2020 and is a popular attraction that is often booked out for weeks in advance. With the closure of the walk up Uluru from October this year, they should keep this colourful and unique attraction going permanently as another draw card for the area.

    .    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    Kings Canyon, A Last Resort!

    8 juillet 2019, Australie ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Before we pack up and leave Ayers Rock Resort Campground this morning, we manage to get up early, put as many layers of clothes on as possible and walk to a lookout hill to watch the sunrise over Uluru. Sunrise is 7.25am although daylight slowly kicks in about 30 mins before then.

    It’s a nice way to start the day and I capture one panoramic shot with the sun just peaking up from the East. This is our farewell for now to Uluru and the Anangu people.

    Ayers Rock Campground to Kings Canyon Resort (330km).

    We’re only going down the road and around a corner, a 330km drive to Kings Canyon Resort and our base for two nights to explore Kings Canyon.

    CAMP: Kings Canyon Resort Campground / 2 Nights.

    We are on the road by 8.30am and aim to reach the resort campground around midday to secure a site before the masses arrive. School holidays is manic and on arrival its already busy but with eagle eye, we manage to find an unpowered site underneath a shady tree so happy with that.

    So this is our last resort before we start heading further south on the long way home. And why are we driving south...? because it’s too bloody far to walk... doh!

    When I say resort, I mean a campground with some cabin accommodation, shared toilets, a petrol station, a pub and a swimming pool. That’s as good as it gets in the outback to cater for us travelling folk.

    The campground itself is fine red sand so we feel like we are on a beach other than the fact that the nearest coastline is well... far, far away. Regardless, the kids at the campground are busy making sand castles and there’s a vibrant family atmosphere here which is code for loud children having fun. All good.

    I open the fridge freezer and we are down to a choice between chicken schnitzels, a chicken breast fillet and oh an ice block. On my deserted Island, I will have unlimited supply of chickens so I can’t really say... “not chicken again”. Schnitz it is with tomato rice replicating a memorable meal we had with Lloydes back in the Bungle Bungles. It seems a long time ago now and they are making good tracks down the coast of Western Australia.

    Being unpowered means we don’t have any heating in the campervan so although the day temperature is fine, out comes the dooner and the hot water bottles as the night can be cold.

    Tomorrow we will explore Kings Canyon but for now, it’s good night.

    .    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    The Colours Of Kings Canyon

    9 juillet 2019, Australie ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Ok, today I could give you a talk about the amazing geological formation of Kings Canyon over millions of years and delve in deep to explore the spiritual connection of the Luritja People, but instead, It’s nice to just give you a feeling for the colours of this place.

    We did the iconic 6km Kings Canyon rim walk starting at about 9.00am. The track sign says it takes about 4 hours with steep sections. It’s not really difficult to walk and the point of this place is to take the time and enjoy and appreciate the spectacular canyon views from above and below.

    Being morning, the sun is providing plenty of shade below inside the canyon so as the sun rises, each view is different as the canyon comes alive. It’s a peaceful place especially up on top of the rim navigating through the sandstone formations.

    On top of a ridge, Jen decides to practice her base jumping skills. I check the wind with my finger and with a slight south easterly wind, unfortunately we had to abort the jump...

    As ever, the dominant colours are the vivid blue sky absent of clouds that gets lighter on the horizon, the brilliant yellow sun tinged with orange, the deep ocre, orange and red of the sandstone, the copper and rusty browns of the dirt, the blackness of the shade across the canyon walls, the contrasting red river gum trees with their ivory and golden trunks and bright green leaves, every shade of green and amber bushes with their darkened branches that are dark purple and black, and the bluey yellow grey and wheat spinifex grasses that tie everything together like a patchwork quilt.

    These essential living colours represent the essence of the outback and capture the spirit of the red centre’s arid lands. Although it’s dry desert, there’s no shortage of colourful foliage, trees and grasses. What is absent out here though are wildlife and water. They go hand in hand. Other than a black crow, we haven’t seen a Kite or any other bird life and no kangaroos or wallabies., not even a sound and the river beds and creeks are all dry.

    The colours are a precious memory that we will take with us as we start to head further south and back home to civilisation.    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    Driving South To Coober Pedy

    10 juillet 2019, Australie ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We are heading south today to the wacky, weird and wonderful OPAL mining town of Coober Pedy.

    We basically packed up most of our stuff around us last night so that we can hit the road early and before sunrise. No matter how quiet you try to be not to wake the neighbours, it’s like coming home drunk and trying to make the stairs to bed without making any noise. Impossible!

    DRIVE: Kings Canyon Resort to Coober Pedy (762km).

    After driving the road out of Kings Canyon to Lassiter Highway, We stop at a sculpture celebrating the red centre of Australia. From here we are in fact 422km from the official centre of Australia at The Lambeth Centre, Ghan NT and will pass as close as 139.5km as we go through Kulgera on the Stuart Highway.

    There have been several methods employed to find such a centre, but only one is named for Dr. Bruce Lambert, one of the nation’s top cartographers. The Lambert Centre of Australia was calculated in 1988 by the Royal Geographical Society of Australia to commemorate the Bicentennial of Federation, and to honor the late Dr. Lambert.

    So imagine for a moment you can hold your finger up in the air and balance Australia on the tip. That’s it, keep visualising it, a bit to the right, keep still, there, you’ve got it. Well that’s almost the centre of Australia. You need to allow for the curvature of the earth and voila, the centre of Australia.

    Similar to what’s known as the “gravitational method,” the Geographical Society’s calculation did with math what had been done with geometry, weights, and physical models. The centre of a land mass is determined as the spot at which the shape, balanced on a single point, manages to balance.

    The coordinates are:
    25 degrees 36 minutes 36.4 seconds south latitude, 134 degrees 21 minutes 17.3 seconds east longitude (25°36′36.4″S 134°21′17.3″E); position on SG53-06 Finke 1:250 000 and 5746 Beddome 1:100 000 scale maps

    Back up a bit. Reaching Eldunda Station, a vital junction between north and south, we queue up like everyone else for petrol. This place takes north of $100 per refuel and the line of cars is long and never ending. Whilst waiting, I be efficient and go and grab two bacon and egg toasties, a coffee and a hot chocolate from the roadhouse.

    There’s nothing like a bacon and egg toastie to get you going and the remaining 487km to Coober Pedy will be a breeze so we hope to get there by 3.00pm. Jen phones ahead and books a caravan park and they can just squeeze us in.

    So as we leave Eldunda, there’s a sign saying north Alice Springs or south Coober Pedy. It’s tempting to turn left and flip a coin to turn right and head for home and it’s all down hill from here... well not literally!

    We soon cross the border into South Australia which means we have been in every state and territory in Australia on our trip with the exception of Tasmania. The desert’s flat, the horizon is distant, the road is straight and even the road surface in South Australia is an ocre/orange colour to match the desert.

    Jen reckons the blue sky is getting paler the more we head south but I reckon it’s just us getting a little closer to the winter southern states. Still no clouds though and it’s officially 8 weeks since we have experienced a single droplet of rain. In fact, we can probably count the number of day we have had any rain in the five months of travel on one hand. Likewise, we can count the number of days we haven’t had sunshine on the the other hand. I think the lowest daytime temperature we have experienced is 23 degrees in Alice Springs and the vast majority of days have been 30 degrees.

    Everything’s extreme in the outback. For a start the distances between places is far with not much in between. Jen spots a freight train parked up in the desert by a roadhouse which is over two kilometres long. I think the train driver has stopped for a pee! We see signs to slow down as there’s unfenced cattle roaming ahead from a cattle station thousands of hectares in size but as dry and barren as can be. Oh and the cost of a Mars Bar is pretty extreme too!

    We arrive at Coober Pedy, the Opal centre of Australia and have been transported back to 1979 when the first Mad Max movie was filmed. It’s a one of a kind place. As we approach on the highway, a rampant mole has been busy digging up the earth and creating miniature mountains of dirt, literally hundreds and hundreds of them just off the highway. (see tomorrow’s footprint for explanation).

    CAMP: Oasis Caravan Park, Coober Pedy / 2 Nights

    I mentioned that the caravan park can squeeze us in. Well this is the tiniest piece of real estate we have been on and my campervan is sideways on an angle to let the gentleman’s car out next door. No worries, we are thankful and grateful that we at least have a spot. We have power even though our lead is going through the fence to another area and surprisingly the showers and amenities at this place are great and now rank in the top three toilet blocks on our 5 month trip. Now that’s pretty good to get on our top three list.

    All set up and starving, we take a drive 100 metre or so into town then drive 400 more and we are at the edge of town. The Outback Bar and Grill is calling us in so we dine there tonight. Simple enough food, a tasty beef burgers and seafood basket with beer and cider.

    Coober Pedy has a character about it and many an Opal mining story to tell. So we are both a little excited to explore the place tomorrow, do a tour, find some opals and meet some local folk.    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    There's 30 Million Holes In Coober Pedy

    11 juillet 2019, Australie ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    As we walk around Coober Pedy, there’s signs everywhere saying “don’t walk backwards”.

    Why you may well ask?

    Well due to the Giant South Australian Desert Mole which was originally introduced here during British colonisation and has run rampant ever since, there are millions of mole holes everywhere.

    I kid you not, there’s very little water in Coober Pedy but 40 metres underground lies the Great Artesian Basin and the remainder of a vast inland sea millions of years ago. So as the mole has an acute sense of smell and can detect water from above ground, he digs a hole prospecting in search of liquid gold. He scratches away at the gypsum sandstone walls with his long dagger like claws, and his diamond edged teeth. the perfect tunnelling tool for the job. He pushes the dirt between his back legs with such ferocity that the dirt shoots up through the hole behind him.

    All this digging leaves a large mound of dry dirt on top of the desert floor as you can see in the profile photo and many of the holes are just abandoned as he moves on thinking that the next hole will be the one.

    Being highly territorial, the mole claims his patch and no other mole can dig in his allotment of land and often moles can be seen and even heard fighting in dispute over a claim.

    He’s not always successful, but persistent to the extent that he becomes addicted to digging as the mere thought of striking water sends him mad with desire. Just like water divining rods, the mole is accurate about 10% of the time so that’s 10 holes for every one success. Even so, the promised big strike of a reservoir full of water can often allude him so he digs and digs and digs.

    So that’s why there are millions of holes in Cooper Pedy... in fact 30 million to be precise and that’s why we don’t walk backwards. That’s truly amazing!

    Now Coober Pedy is also famous for Opals and it has the biggest opal seams and the best source of opals in the world. The process of extracting them is quite similar to that of the mole so no need to delve deeper...! However, the process on which an opal is created is a natural phenomenon that produces vibrant and colourful translucent gems.

    The sand from the inland sea millions of years ago was rich in silica and unique to Australia. The sea water with the silica in it seaps through the sandstone. As the climate changed, the water evaporated and left behind the silica and over time, droplets of the silica containing a small amount of water were deposited to form opal. The water is a key ingredient as inside the opal, the water content reflects light to provide thousands of variations of colour.

    With all the prospecting for Opals and all the digging of holes and tunnels, the majority of folk living in town live underground. In fact 70% of homes in Coober Pedy are underground, ventilated from above via shafts and providing a consistent climate and temperature of 24-26 degrees. This is perfect as the temperature here can vary from 40+ degrees in summer to negative degrees at night in winter.

    As we we explore town, we soon realise that this place is a bit wacko! Its just like mad max, dry, desolate and harsh yet exciting, interesting and full of signs of ingenuity and survival. We find many a monument to the boom/bust opal industry plus rusty cars, machines, mechanical diggers, dated rusty signs from an era gone by, and other vehicles abandoned, Its certainly eye catching and quirky.

    Even the famous bus from the movie Pricilla, Queen of the Desert has its final resting place here.

    Jen visits a few underground churches and we both visit the opal museum for a tour and a historical movie about the opal and the pioneers who moved here to dig for them and seek their fortunes.

    Although Coober Pedy town centre has stopped digging for opals and is now heritage listed, on the outskirts, we can still apply for a permit to dig, find a patch of land and go prospecting.

    So with a pair of water diviners which suppose to pick up the trace elements of water in an opal seam, and a mole in hand, sorry... a shovel in hand, we head off to find some dirt.

    “The Walshies are makin a claim”    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    Down Hill All The Way To Adelaide

    12 juillet 2019, Australie ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Stuart Highway runs 2,834km from Darwin In the Northern territory to Port Augusta, South Australia. Seeing as we have passed the geographical centre of Australia and have now left Coober Pedy, we are at the tipping point and are now on the down hill stretch all the way to Adelaide.

    DRIVE: Coober Pedy to Adelaide (844km).

    It’s a long drive with nothing but desert landscape and spinifex for miles and miles. The brilliant morning sun rises and the light is perfect making for a clear view of the distant horizon. We pass a few eagles on the side of the highway feasting on a dead kangaroo, unfazed by our passing car. Nothing goes to waste out here and the birds are opportunistic feeding on a regular supply of road kill.

    Reaching approximately half way on our drive, we pass close to Woomera and a number of restricted area signs on the side of the road. Woomera Prohibited Area (WPA) is a globally unique military testing range. It covers 122 188 square kilometres, 450km north west of South Australia. Its the largest land testing range in the world held under a veil of secrecy and used to test missiles, rockets, planes and other defence technology. It’s like area 51 in the Nevada desert of USA.

    The place is so secretive that as we approach, on the horizon is what looks like huge dark mountains and we realise that we are driving into a weather front which suddenly engulfs our car and we are surrounded by fog...! The contrast from blue sky to white fog and dark clouds reminds us that we are in winter and getting closer to the southern lands.

    Reaching the end of the Stuart Highway at Port Augusta at midday so it’s about 300km more to Adelaide stopping at Locheil for lunch. Locheil has its own Loch Ness Monster all be it made out of old tyres sitting up in the shallow lake.

    The wind and the rain has set in as we approach the outskirts of Adelaide so we both shiver with fright.

    Adelaide is the capital of South Australia and amongst many things, it’s renowned for its diversity of wine regions, Barossa, Clare Valley, McLaren Vale and the Adelaide Hills.

    We are excited to be catching up with our fabulous Adelaide friends, Kathy, Manny & Bev and staying with Kathy & Manny (the Hatzi’s) for a couple of nights. So we park up the campervan to enjoy homely five star treatment including a real bed, shower, fine wine and a three course dinner. They take pity on two tired, smelly and nearly lost travellers, which is greatly appreciated. It’s always great to catch up with them and we basically laugh the night away.

    Now Adelaide is known as the City of Churches and was firstly and foremostly a Christian State established by Christians for the free proclamation of the gospel to all who would live here. There’s no shortage of churches on many a tree lined street and the original stone buildings and victorian style architecture in and around the city is well preserved.

    The city was founded and proclaimed as a British settlement in 1836 and was named in honour of Adelaide of Saxe-Meiningen, queen consort to King William IV, The area around Adelaide was originally inhabited by the indigenous Kaurna people, one of many Aboriginal nations in South Australia.

    There are two rival footie teams here, Adelaide and Port Adelaide but according to Kathy Hatzi a devoted Port supporter, there’s only one.    En savoir plus

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  • Walshies Down UnderCentral Australia & Ayers RockVoyageur

    There's No Place Like Home

    14 juillet 2019, Australie ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    As we leave Adelaide on the highway in the cold and wet early hours of a Sunday morning bound for Melbourne, a rainbow magically appears ahead and yes, being in the land of OZ, we live somewhere over it...

    DRIVE: Adelaide to Melbourne (727km).

    Finally after 5 months (151 Days) on the road exploring Australia and a total distance of 22,507 kilometres travelled including five states and two territories, we are home.

    It’s been an epic adventure travelling around Australia with many memories to cherish and a great appreciation of this diverse land - the contrasting wilderness, the magnificent sunsets, the understanding of culture and dreamtime, the remoteness and dryness of an ancient land, the distant horizons and the unique wildlife.

    We hope you have enjoyed following the “Walshies Down Under” and our Penguin footprints of Australia and remember, regardless of the road less travelled, there’s no place like home.

    Steve & Jen x    En savoir plus

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    Fin du voyage
    14 juillet 2019