In Which we Meet a Sexy Woman

Cusco was not only the capital of the entire Incan Empire, but the street layout of the city is based on the outline of the Puma- one of the sacred animals of the Incas. Even today you can clearly see the outline in the street pattern. On this outline the main plaza (The Plaza de Armas) constitutes the stomach of the Puma and the huge Incan fort of Sacsayhuaman constitutes the head.

This fort was once a huge fortified stronghold to defend the city, but when the Spaniards came they destroyed the city of Cusco and the impressive fort. Today only about 20% of the original structure remains, the rest was carried away to rebuild the city and to construct the 13 large churches and cathedrals that dominate the city centre. Even so, the remains of Sacsayhuaman (pronounced "sexy woman") are still breathtaking.

Our plan for our first full day in Cusco was to continue our process of acclimatisation by exploring some more of the city and the numerous ruins that still remain. Our first stop was at the 9 m high statue of Christ that is perched high on one of the nearby hills. With arms outstretched this statue is a little like the much larger and more famous one that dominates Rio de Janeiro in Brazil.

We then spent the next few hours exploring Sacsayhuaman. In order to enter the fort we had to make our way through a dark and very claustrophobic tunnel through the rock. This would have been easy for the diminutive Incans, but quite hazardous for much taller westerners. The new bumps on my head will be reminder of this experience.

It was then a downhill drive back to Cusco for lunch, followed by a tour of the oldest colonial cathedral. This was built on the site of the Incan palace, out of materials plundered from the destroyed fort and temples. It is now filled with literally tonnes of gold and silver, ornate carvings and numerous images of Mary, especially remodelled to appear like the Incan Mother Goddess of the Earth.

By late afternoon I was getting very tired and returned to my hotel and set about destroying my room. Well not exactly the whole room, in fact just the top sheet on my bed. In all fariness it was not my fault. After all, how was I to know that the pen I was about to open was still pressurised to sea level ? When I popped the cap off the pen, blue ink sprayed forth all over the brilliant white sheet. All I could do was look on in horror and try to think of what to do next. After the surprise wore off, I decided that there was nothing I could do, except leave it there for all to see. Oh well, worse things can happen.

Later in the day we met the rest of our cycling guides - Jimmy and Diego. Tomorrow morning we will be getting on the bikes and then we will find out just how much the altitude has reduced us to cycling ruins.

The weather has continued to be fine and clear. During the day the sun shines with a vengeance and at night the temperatures drop quickly under a clear starry sky. As we walked the plaza after dark we were mesmerised by the beauty of the lights on all the surrounding mountains. It looked like some sort of beautiful Christmas light display. It is only a pity that pictures can never do such moments justice - you simply have to be there.Read more