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2018 South America Adventure
  • The World on Two Wheels
apr. – jun. 2018

2018 South America Adventure

About a year ago I started planning a return trip to South America to revisit some of the places that I had experienced in 2010. I also added a few extra locations to my wish list and the itinerary developed from there. Læs mere
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    28. april 2018
    The World on Two Wheels2018 South America AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    The Final Few Days Before Departure

    28. april 2018, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    For centuries the jungle slowly engulfed the Inca town of Machu Picchu. This city had been abandoned by the Incas over 500 years earlier, during the time of the Spanish invasion of South America. It's location was unknown outside the local area until the American archeologist and adventurer Hiram Bingam was led to it in 1911. He then set about removing the vegetation as quickly as possible, doing much damage to the ruins in the process.

    I remember first reading about the "fabled lost city of the Incas" when I was still in primary school. The story seemed like a fairy tale to me. I never dreamed that over 55 years later I would have the chance to walk in the footsteps of the Incas and explore the city for myself. But I have now learned that life can take you to some incredible places if you only have the courage to take the first step.

    In a few days I will leaving for South America. Over a period of five weeks we will be trekking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, cycling the high Andes in Peru, sailing Lake Titicaca, watching the giant condors in Colca Canyon, exploring the amazing Iguassu Falls, enjoying a tango in Buenos Aires, sailing the Rio de la Plata, spending a night in the oldest European city in South America, riding in one of the world's highest trains and much, much more. I want to share some of these adventures with you along the way.    Læs mere

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    Bags (almost) Packed

    7. maj 2018, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    I must admit that I don't really like packing, however I like to think that I am relatively well organised when it comes down to the final few days. I have had a list prepared for the past couple of weeks, on which I have detailed all the myriad small (and large) items that must be taken on any trip that involves a wide variety of activities.

    Armed with my exhaustive list I set aside a part of the house for me to start piling all these bits and pieces together. The next stage is sorting and packing items into smaller packages - one package for cycling gear, one for underwear, one for toiletries and so on. Then comes the time of reckoning when all the small packages are packed into the luggage. Although at first it never looks like everything will fit, it is amazing just how much you can cram into a case. The final step is to weigh the finished result to see if anything needs to be removed. Then fill in the luggage labels, attach a lock or two and the job is done.

    With only 4 days to go till departure it is really starting to feel that our long awaited adventure is about to start. My passport is ready to go and so am I. By this time next week our team will be assembled in Cusco. In fact four members have already set off. Andrew and Valmai have spent the past few weeks in South America and will meet us in Santiago, Chile. Steve and Gil have taken the much longer route and will be attending a family wedding in the UK before jumping straight on a plane to meet us in Cusco.

    I checked the weather forecast for Friday and it is looking like an Antarctic blast is about to hit Melbourne. That means it could be an interesting flight, The next footprint will probably be in Lima.    Læs mere

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    Arrived in Lima, Peru

    12. maj 2018, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    After an interminable time in transit, the first 11 members of the Ghostriders' 2018 South America Adventure have finally all safely reached Lima. The extraordinary journey began with a horror drive to Tullamarine through pouring rain and gridlocked Melbourne traffic. Then our flight was delayed before finally taking off at 9 pm. Thirteen and a half hours jammed into an economy seat on a packed flight would have been bearable if it had not been for some wild turbulence in the first few hours of the flight, but at least we reached Santiago (Chile) without our luggage going to London by mistake. Then followed some more time in transit before catching the final flight (also delayed) to Lima. At least this leg was only three and half hours and the flight crew were a little more attentive that on the first flight.

    We finally staggered out of the airport into the warm and humid air of Lima about 2 am local time. We had had multiple time changes and around 30 hours of transit. To say we were ready for bed would have been have been like comparing the bubonic plague with a dose of the sniffles, but first we had to take a seat on a bus for the trip through the city to our hotel. Even at this time on a Sunday morning, the streets were thronged with jostling cars.

    It was certainly a blessed relief to eventually collapse through the door of my room and turn the light out. At least my room at the Casa Andina Miraflores was immaculately clean and the bed was heavenly.

    Tomorrow our adventure really begins.    Læs mere

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    In Which we Take Lima by Storm

    12. maj 2018, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    It never ceases to amaze me what a difference a few hours can make and today was a perfect example of this. Last night we staggered into our hotel at 2 am in the morning, all feeling like we were surely close to death's proverbial door. After getting a few unsettled hours of sleep and enjoying a quite good breakfast, all our team members were soon looking more like their old selves.

    A group of us then set out to explore the area between our hotel and the seafront. I had been in this region back in 2010 but I was surprised to find just how much the place had changed in that time. Although Lima is situated right on the Pacific Ocean, the city is separated from the ocean by an almost vertical 150 m high cliff face. At the top of this cliff you get the most incredible views down the waterfront and the huge expanse of ocean lying just beyond.

    Developers have now made maximum use of this prime position by building a very impressive array of modern shops and cafes, all sharing the same breathtaking view. Yesterday we had hardly eaten all day, so we decided it was time to have some lunch. For a cost of around $15AUD I enjoyed a large plate of chicken and Ceasar salad. It certainly was welcome. The milkshake went down well too.

    In the afternoon I had organised for a private tour of some of the highlights of the city and its museums. I usually have an aversion to taking any sort of organised tour, but in this case I made an exception. For one reason we had the guide and the bus to ourselves and for another reason, we only have a single day to get the most out of experience here.

    Over the next 6 hours we were treated to a most enjoyable array of visual and intellectual delights. I learnt that the population of Lima has now risen to 11 million, making it the third most populous city in South America. It was also staggering to view the beautiful works of art and sculpture made by the various groups that have occupied this spot over the past 5000 years. This region truly is one of the cradles of civilisation.

    After getting back to our hotel at 8 pm we walked to the centre of Miraflores and found a nice place for dinner. Some wandering pan pipe players decided to serenade us while we ate and, during the walk back to the hotel, we stopped to watch a large group of all ages, all enjoying some tango dancing in the park. South America is certainly like that.

    Tomorrow we head to Cusco and the thin air of the Andes.    Læs mere

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    In the Footsteps of the Incas

    13. maj 2018, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    The flight from Lima to Cusco takes about 75 mins by plane, however we have been told that the same journey takes 24 hours by road. As I gazed from my plane window down at the rugged terrain below, it was very easy to see why this would be the case.

    For the traveller the main challenge of taking this short flight is the extreme gain in altitude in such a short time. While Lima is obviously at sea level, Cusco sits at an oxygen starved altitude of 3500 metres. The flight is spectacular and the landing at the small airport is enough to keep the knuckles white. Fortunately we landed safely although the sudden impact with the runway would have only scored a 3/10 on the pilot's skill scale.

    We were met at the baggage carousel by a diminutive Peruvian who introduced himself as "Abel Puma" and then ushered us to the waiting bus. "Do not exert yourselves today", he advised. We didn't need any encouragement to move slowly as our heads were already spinning and our lungs gasping as we made our way along.

    Our hotel is situated right in the centre of town, right next to the Plaza Major and the ancient cathedral. All around are reminders that Cusco was the magnificent capital of the entire Incan Empire. This empire flourished and spread for around 500 years, before it was almost wiped out by the Spanish in the 1500s. This city will also become our base of operations for the next few days. Our first task ? To acclimatise to the thin air.

    After our arrival at the hotel we decided to walk (stagger) to the nearby Plaza to search for somewhere to have lunch. We found a balcony cafe with a panoramic view of the plaza and the surrounding mountains and settled down for our first high altitude meal. For one of our group, the pressures of the past two days has already proven to be too much, so he decided to stay flat on his back in the hotel instead.

    Cusco reminds me of a frontier town, lacking the polish and sophistication of a modern city, but absolutely steeped in history and folklore. The legacy of the Incas is all around with many of the current buildings actually built on the solid foundations crafted by the Incas over 500 years previously. It is also favoured by the neo hippy types that wander the streets in search of hash. I had not walked far before I was asked several times if I wanted to "buy some weed".

    My wanderings were cut short as I only lasted a couple of hours later before exhaustion overcame me as well and I headed back for a rest.

    After an evening briefing by our cycling guide we walked a short distance to a nearby restaurant for dinner. Without our presence the place would have had a quiet night as we were the only ones there. As I ate my meal I gazed at the huge mural that covered the wall of the restaurant. It depicted Mother Earth supplying the needs of the people and was liberally highlighted with shining gold sections. I suggested that David could paint a similar mural on his living room wall when he gets home, but he looked back at me with glazed eyes. I think he needs sleep.

    On the walk back to the hotel I heard the unmistakable sounds of a talented busker singing a succession of Bob Marley songs. I had jokingly asked earlier in the day when we were going to hear Bob Marley and here he was. This music was a feature of all our early Ghostrider overseas rides and I took this as a favourable omen for the success of this trip. I could hear the music long after I returned to my room.

    Compared to the smog and humidity of Lima, the weather in Cusco is clear and dry at this time of the year. I think the pattern will be warm days and chilly nights under the Andean skies.    Læs mere

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    In Which we Meet a Sexy Woman

    14. maj 2018, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Cusco was not only the capital of the entire Incan Empire, but the street layout of the city is based on the outline of the Puma- one of the sacred animals of the Incas. Even today you can clearly see the outline in the street pattern. On this outline the main plaza (The Plaza de Armas) constitutes the stomach of the Puma and the huge Incan fort of Sacsayhuaman constitutes the head.

    This fort was once a huge fortified stronghold to defend the city, but when the Spaniards came they destroyed the city of Cusco and the impressive fort. Today only about 20% of the original structure remains, the rest was carried away to rebuild the city and to construct the 13 large churches and cathedrals that dominate the city centre. Even so, the remains of Sacsayhuaman (pronounced "sexy woman") are still breathtaking.

    Our plan for our first full day in Cusco was to continue our process of acclimatisation by exploring some more of the city and the numerous ruins that still remain. Our first stop was at the 9 m high statue of Christ that is perched high on one of the nearby hills. With arms outstretched this statue is a little like the much larger and more famous one that dominates Rio de Janeiro in Brazil.

    We then spent the next few hours exploring Sacsayhuaman. In order to enter the fort we had to make our way through a dark and very claustrophobic tunnel through the rock. This would have been easy for the diminutive Incans, but quite hazardous for much taller westerners. The new bumps on my head will be reminder of this experience.

    It was then a downhill drive back to Cusco for lunch, followed by a tour of the oldest colonial cathedral. This was built on the site of the Incan palace, out of materials plundered from the destroyed fort and temples. It is now filled with literally tonnes of gold and silver, ornate carvings and numerous images of Mary, especially remodelled to appear like the Incan Mother Goddess of the Earth.

    By late afternoon I was getting very tired and returned to my hotel and set about destroying my room. Well not exactly the whole room, in fact just the top sheet on my bed. In all fariness it was not my fault. After all, how was I to know that the pen I was about to open was still pressurised to sea level ? When I popped the cap off the pen, blue ink sprayed forth all over the brilliant white sheet. All I could do was look on in horror and try to think of what to do next. After the surprise wore off, I decided that there was nothing I could do, except leave it there for all to see. Oh well, worse things can happen.

    Later in the day we met the rest of our cycling guides - Jimmy and Diego. Tomorrow morning we will be getting on the bikes and then we will find out just how much the altitude has reduced us to cycling ruins.

    The weather has continued to be fine and clear. During the day the sun shines with a vengeance and at night the temperatures drop quickly under a clear starry sky. As we walked the plaza after dark we were mesmerised by the beauty of the lights on all the surrounding mountains. It looked like some sort of beautiful Christmas light display. It is only a pity that pictures can never do such moments justice - you simply have to be there.    Læs mere

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    Two Lost Sheep are Finally Found

    15. maj 2018, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    After a couple of days of acclimatisation to the high altitude, it was time for the hour of reckoning. Today was the time for us to get our first taste of cycling the Sacred Valley of the Incas. After a short bus ride to the outskirts of the city we were introduced to our bikes for the first time. To our great relief they were high end Specialised brand bikes with dual suspension and hydraulic brakes.

     As it was the first time that most of us had ever ridden a dual suspension bike, they did take a little getting used to, but soon we were looking for potholes in which to test how good they were.

    We didn't have long to wait because most of the day's ride was along very rough back roads, liberally covered with rocks and culverts. The enormous tyres and the suspension certainly worked well, although most of our lungs did not work so well. Every time we encountered a hill our hearts and lungs went into overdrive, gasping for every molecule of oxygen we could catch.

    For the third day in a row we were favoured with blue skies and a very warm sun. The warm clothing we had packed was quickly discarded and the sunscreen was applied thickly. At this altitude it is very easy to become very badly sunburnt in a short space of time.

    We bounced and puffed our way along a succession of rough dirt roads and through some small settlements. In these places our progress was closely monitored by numerous stray dogs that barked menacingly each time we approached them. We had previously been warned that, in the event of a dog attack, we were to stop and take refuge behind our bike. Fortunately this strategy was never put to the test.

    After a couple of hours of cycling we stopped for lunch beside a beautiful lake in the sacred valley and then were driven to the top of a nearby hill to wander some extensive pre Incan ruins.

    We knew that the final two members of our team were due to arrive in Cusco today. Steve and Gil Wilson had to attend a family wedding in the UK and were taking the long and circuitous route from Manchester to Cusco to join us for the rest of our time in South America. Each time a plane flew overhead we imagined that it could be them on board.

    It was only when we arrived back at our hotel we heard just what a trying time they had experienced. Not only had they been in continuous transit for over thirty hours, visiting Manchester, Helsinki, New York and Lima along the way, but their final flight from Lima to Cusco had been altered. This meant that they did not know that someone would be waiting for them on arrival in Cusco. They proceeded through the airport and caught a taxi instead.

    That would have been OK, except for the fact that our hotel had also been changed and, when they arrived at the original hotel, they found it locked and bolted. This was not the welcome they had been looking forward to after such an horrendous time in the air. After a series of phone calls they eventually arrived at the correct hotel some four hours later. Although this was not the start they had been wanting, they took it in surprisingly good spirits and are looking forward to begin their own personal acclimatisation process.

    Tomorrow we head to Olantaytambo where the more serious riding will begin.

    In case you might have been wondering what had happened after my unfortunate incident with the exploding blue pen in my hotel room, I can now complete the story. After an unsuccessful personal attempt to remove the ink, I gave up, carefully folded the sheet on top of my bed and wrote a letter of apology to the cleaning staff. To add some extra gravitas to my apology I added a crying face at the bottom to emphasise that I was truly sorry for my sins. I expected to return to my room and be welcomed with a stern letter of rebuke and a hefty invoice. I found neither of these. My room and bed was made up and my stained sheet replaced with a pristine new white one. I have learnt my lesson.    Læs mere

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    The Day of Reckoning

    17. maj 2018, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    Today has been our most challenging day so far. It started with the wake up alarm at 5.00 am, followed by breakfast at 6.00, then packing the bags and preparing for a long day on the bikes.This time we headed north out of Cusco, in the direction of Ollantaytambo (the stepping off point for any trip to Machu Picchu).

    After an preliminary visit to a alpaca textile factory we met up with the cycling support team. Although there are only 13 of us, there are almost as many support staff. As well as Jaeko, who is our main guide, we also have Diego and Jimmy as our two cycling guides. Then we have three drivers for the vehicles, a cook and assistant for the meals. There is also another guy who has been following us with a drone to make a movie, although we hated the drone and discussed various ways to knock it out of the sky. I think he got the message and there has been no sign of him today.

    Straight after getting on the bikes we were out in the rural highlands, surrounded by towering, rugged and often snow capped peaks. The skies have continued to be clear and the weather mild. Today we had an early cool breeze to make the cycling conditions absolutely perfect. Now that we had gained some experience on these bikes, we felt ready to tackle some of the much more technical riding we had today.

    After three days at this altitude we found ourselves still struggling for air as our ride took us up to near 3900 metres, but it is amazing how the human body adapts and our recovery periods are getting progressively shorter and shorter. There is absolutely no way that we could have even attempted this a couple of days earlier.

    We stopped for a late lunch by the circular terraces at Moray. This place was built by the Incas to grow and experiment with different types of crops. It consists of an enormous natural depression in the ground which has been developed into a descending succession of circular terraces. Each progressively lower terrace has a warmer climate and can be used for a different crop. The construction is a staggering example of the technical brilliance of the Incas.

    After lunch we had our first taste of exciting downhill riding as we descended 100's of metres down to the sacred valley. Our final stop was the breathtaking ancient salt mines of Marais.

    We finally rolled into Ollantaytambo well after dark,exhausted but all very happy that we had experienced one of the best cycling days in our lives.    Læs mere

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    The Ghostriders Conquer the Urubamba

    17. maj 2018, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    The Urubamba River is the river that made the sacred valley of the Incas. Over millions of years it has carved this amazing valley which has become one of the cradles of civilisation. It not only flows past the famous site of Machu Picchu, but it later joins the mighty Amazon and eventually empties into the Atlantic Ocean. Today's ride plan was simple - to follow the river along a rough side track for about 3 hours. It sounded quite easy. Actually it wasn't.

    The hardships for two of our group actually began the previous evening. After dinner Steve and Gil decided that they needed to augment their dwindling cash and visited one of the only two ATMs in Ollantaytambo. They inserted their card and waited. And waited. Nothing happened and the machine decided that they had no right to get their card back. Considering their misfortunes of the previous day, one could be forgiven for thinking that these poor folk were destined to have bad luck throughout the trip.

    Apparently they then spent more time on the Internet cancelling the card and making other arrangements to survive for the next few weeks. It was certainly an inauspicious start to their trip. However more trails were to lie ahead for our group.

    We began the day by driving upstream along the Urubamba River for about 60 km from Ollantaytambo. The plan was then to ride along a rough track along the far side of the river, downstream for several hours. It sounded simple.

    We began in glorious conditions under another clear sky and were soon bouncing along over rocks and huge culverts in the path. The bikes did a sensational job in coping with these conditions. It is little wonder that they cost an eye watering $2800 USD each. They certainly are very well adapted for this type of riding, although it was a pity that my body was not equally as well adapted as the bike I was riding.

    I had not ridden very far before I started to feel like my nether regions were being scraped with sand paper. This is every riders worst nightmare. I wriggled in the seat. I lifted my backside off the seat. I moved forward and backward. Still sore. I was not looking forward to another 3 or more hours of this posterior torture, but there was nothing I could do but grin and bear it. Why oh why hadn't I used some of that magic cream that was hiding somewhere in my suitcase ? Good question.

    The path itself undulated up and down and the rough surface certainly challenged most of our riders who were not experienced mountain bikers. David suffered the first puncture of the ride when a tack lodged in his rear tyre. A short time later it was my turn when my front tyre went down. I ended up swapping bikes with Jimmy (one of our cycling guides). This was most kind of him. The only problem is that Jimmy is about a foot shorter than me and his bike was about the size of a midget BMX. I was therefore quite relieved when we reached the lunch spot at a rather late 2 pm and was told that the riding was over for the day.

    We then transferred to a restaurant for lunch. A pan pipe player was playing El Condor Pasa. Actually someone has been playing this same song almost everywhere we have been since we arrived in Cusco 4 days ago. I think we will hear it a lot more before this trip is over.

    We finally arrived back in Ollantaytambo about 4 pm . After showering and changing we were able to spend some time exploring this fascinating and very much frontier town. Then it was time for a coffee and snack. We found a lovely cafe that had been started by a young American girl who had been working for an NGO organisation before settling in Ollantaytambo. She loved the place and decided to start a business here. I really admire such people who have the courage and imagination to live a remarkable life. I hope her business succeeds. She deserves it.

    It was also soon after arriving back in Ollantaytambo that a remarkable coincidence took place. I knew that Liz and Priscilla Kwok were travelling in South America on another World Expeditions trip at about the same time as us, but we were not prepared to see them actually book into our hotel ! What were the chances of what ? We felt a little like that famous meeting between Stanley and Livingstone as we welcomed and embraced out two Australian friends who were so far away from home.    Læs mere

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    Cycling the Abra Malaga Pass

    18. maj 2018, Peru ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    The country of Peru is roughly cut down the middle by the mighty Andes mountain range. To the east is the hot and wet jungles of the Amazon region and to the west are the dry highlands that formed the major part of the Incan Empire. The Abra Malaga Pass at 4500 m is one of the major connecting points between these two disparate regions.

    Our major task for today was to cycle the Abra Malaga Pass. I guess if I was 20 years younger, 20 kg lighter and 20 IQ points more stupid, I could have tried to peddle up this mighty mountain, however our plan was to do the reverse. It is still something of a mental and physical challenge.

    After spending the first hour of the day climbing the amazing stone terraces above Ollantaytambo, we then boarded the bus for the 2 hour drive to the pass. Although the weather in Ollantaytambo was already quite warm, at the pass itself it was absolutely freezing. We all donned thermals, jackets, vests, scarves and anything else we could find.

    There is no much at the pass apart from an interesting little church. There was also the twisted ruins of a vehicle which had presumably missed one of the many precipitous switchbacks on the road. Since this is such a strategic connecting point between Cusco and the Amazon there were also a steady stream of buses and trucks making their way over the pass.

    After a photo at the summit we were off. Many hearts were in a state of panic at the thought of the vertiginous descent that lay ahead, but to my delight, every one in the team decided to go ahead. Soon we were snaking our way down the road, taking care to make sure the speed was kept under control.

    I had not gone far before I realised that all was not well with my bike. Each time the front wheel rotated, the handlebars bumped alarmingly. This was the tyre that had been repaired the previous day and obviously it had not been replaced correctly.At first I thought I should just grin and bare it, however I worried about the safety if the tyre came off the rim. I called ahead for the team to stop. The guides tinkered with the bike for some time but could not fix the problem. That meant I had to complete the rest of the 38 km descent with a front wheel that was vibrating alarmingly. Oh well, it certainly added to the excitement.

    I won't try to describe the scenery, other than to say it was absolutely spectacular. Some things can never be described, they just have to be experienced. I can assure you that everyone made it safely to the bottom of the mountain at Ollantaytambo and the exhilaration that we all felt was amazing.

    Tomorrow we begin the 4 day trek along the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, meaning that we will be out of all contact until we get back to Cusco in 5 day's time.    Læs mere

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    The Track to Machu Picchu

    19. maj 2018, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We all knew that this was going to be a long day - and it was. It began with an early breakfast and a complete repacking of our trekking gear into a lightweight duffel bag. But before we could begin the trek, we still had some awesome cycling to do.

    Our cycling guides took us back up the sacred valley along a potholed dirt track, until we were back high in the mountains. Unlike the previous day's ride down the Abra Malaga Pass, this one was going to be a real test of our ability to handle mountain bikes on a rough descent at relatively high speed. Several of our riders decided that discretion would be the better part of valour and decided to stay in the vehicle instead. The rest of us donned knee protectors, elbow protectors, helmets, etc and prepared for an exciting and challenging downhill thrill ride. We weren't disappointed.

    We were soon descending rapidly, while at the same time concentrating on letting the bikes do the lion's share of the work. It was hardly ever necessary to pedal, but it required constant concentration to keep the bike under control. At each switchback corner the surface of the road was covered with a treacherous layer of fine dust, sometimes several cm thick.

    In spite of the dangers we all managed to stay upright and reach Ollantaytambo safely. We then sadly packed the cycle gear for the final time and bade farewell to the tremendous cycling support staff. Because Diego, Jimmy and the rest of the crew really had done a fantastic job in looking after us.

    After a flying visit back to the Tikawasi Hotel to change into our trekking gear, it was time to return to the bus for another drive far back up the Urubamba River to begin our trek. The destination for the first section of the trek was the hamlet of Marcacocha at 3400m above sea level.

    Although the elevation was high, the temperature certainly was not. Once the sun disappeared behind the mountains, the temperature plummeted to around zero. Everyone started looking for extra clothes to pile on to avoid freezing solid.

    As the night descended a number of us stood outside to gaze at the incredible night sky and some unfamiliar constellations. While we were standing staring at the heavens we all witnessed the most incredible astronomical sight that I had ever seen. Right where we were all looking a huge fireball appeared and proceeded to carve a line across the sky, parallel to the ground. Trailing behind the fireball was a tail of glowing debris. We stood in amazement and I held my breath, waiting for the explosion as it hit the ground. In a lifetime of watching the stars, I had never seen such a dramatic and prolonged example of a large meteor. Fortunately there was no explosion and it died before hitting the ground. Nevertheless, it is something that none of us will ever forget.

    After the fireball we made the first difficult foray into our sleeping bags. I know that the older I get the harder this process becomes. After a painful series of contortions and spasms I manged to partially insert my body into the confines of the bag, although my top half would have to take its own chances with the icy conditions. I then set about trying to manufacture some sort of pillow out of cast off clothes and other oddments.

    If getting into a sleeping bag is hard, then getting up in the middle of the night for a "nature break" is at least two orders of magnitude even more difficult. First you have to fumble about in the dark for the torch that should be there somewhere. Then you have to don enough clothes to ensure some degree of decency and protection from the frigid conditions. Finally come the shoes and the fight with the tent zipper to make an escape into the outside world.

    You then stumble across the campsite under the stars, do the deed and then repeat the whole process in reverse. It's certainly not easy.    Læs mere

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    The Going Gets Tough

    20. maj 2018, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We began the day early, with a 5.00 am wake up from the staff. I was already awake and keen to get out of the sleeping bag and into some proper gear. Our guide Jeiko, had already warned us that this was to be a tough day of walking with at least 10 hours ahead of us. Not exactly a pleasant proposition.

    After breakfast we donned our sun screen (yes it was yet another sunny day), picked up our walking poles and headed off. We were soon climbing steadily and puffing even more steadily in the thin air and ever increasing heat. After a short time we were joined by a colourfully dressed local Quechuan holy man, who was to accompany us for the next couple of hours.

    He led us through a never ending series of navigational challenges and scrambles over rocks and through brambles and prickles. It certainly was not what I would call a "trail". When we finally started to descend we though the worst was behind us. It wasn't. We then started to climb ever more steeply up to the hilltop ruins of Pumamarca. It was here that the Quechuan performed a ritual offering to the Sun and mother earth. No matter what your spiritual beliefs, it really was interesting and actually quite touching.

    An hour or so later we were back on the go again. By this time the sun was burning and, even though we were again heading downhill, the going was never easy. We started to look at our watches and wonder how we would ever cover the distance we still had ahead of us before darkness set in. As it turned out, we didn't.

    By early afternoon we stumbled into Ollantaytambo, right into the middle of their huge festival. The dusty streets were jammed with a succession of brightly dressed dancing groups. We followed them into the central plaza and watched as they each performed their carefully choreographed dances before the judges. South America is NEVER boring.

    We then resumed our trek out the other side of the town. A look at the time showed that there was no way we would be able to complete the route that was originally planned. We searched for that ever popular "Plan B". Fortunately there was one and, with a few deletions, we were able to reduce the remaining distance by about 50% and also cut out another huge climb. It was a very popular decision as by that time we were all exhausted.

    We made steady progress through the afternoon and managed to reach camp number 2 just before dark. It was situated alongside a large, but somewhat dilapidated home. Fortunately at this lower elevation, the temperature was noticeably warmer than the previous night. After a delicious evening meal, we repeated the antics of getting into our sleeping bags.

    Unfortunately there were no repeats of the previous night's celestial performance.    Læs mere

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    Closer to the Lost City

    21. maj 2018, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    After another early start (but not quite as early as the previous day) we proceeded to follow the Rio Urubamba through the Sacred Valley. On our right hand side towered the huge Mount Veronica. At 5900 metres in height, it's ice capped summit dominates the surrounding peaks. This mountain was to be our companion for the rest of the trek.

    The trek itself was undulating. The path never seemed to be horizontal and by noon the heat of the sun was quite overwhelming. Each time we reached a patch of shade we rejoiced at the temporary respite. Looking down we saw the turbulent waters of the Urubamba, seeming to show the way to Machu Picchu.

    After another challenging day's walk we were very glad when we arrived at the permanent campsite at Apu Veronica. I had stayed there before on my previous trek in 2010, so the place had a familiar feel to it.

    To protect from the howling winds at this point, the tents are covered by straw shelters. I am sure that the cooking staff were also glad to have something resembling a real kitchen to prepare our food in. There was even a sauna for those brave enough to face the searing heat inside. I certainly wasn't.

    By this time in our trek we were all excited that the goal of reaching the Lost City of the Incas was due to be achieved the following afternoon, however in South America plans are apt to change at the last moment. And they did.

    We had originally planned to travel a short distance in the train and then resume our trek a little further on. Without reason the train company decided that it would no longer stop at Apu Veronica and, unless we were willing to jump on a moving train, this plan was no longer possible.

    The only alternative was to hire a bus to take us all the way back to Ollantaytambo and catch the train there. This meant a 4.00 am start to the final day ! Oh well, some things were never meant to be easy.    Læs mere

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    We Reach Machu Picchu

    22. maj 2018, Peru

    With the last minute change of plans for our final day of trekking, the wake up time was brought forward to an unearthly 4.00 am in the morning. Fortunately for me the sleeping bag decided to become my vicious enemy during the night and I was awake and ready before any need for the wake up alarm.

    I flashed the torch around the scattered ruins inside my tent, deflated the mattress for the final time and stuffed everything into the duffel bag. I was not really sad to be saying goodbye to my time in the tent and I couldn't help but feel that my days of camping have probably come to an end.

    By 4.15 I had crawled out into the pre dawn night and noticed that not all of my fellow trekkers had awaken yet. I flashed my torch around to hasten their departures from the Land of Nod and proceeded to grab something to eat for breakfast.

    At 5.00 am the order was given that it was time to move. We shouldered our bags, switched on our lights and formed a single line along the narrow walking track. At this point there is a dramatic drop down to the Urubamba and a single slip could prove disastrous. For some in the group it was probably a good thing that they could not see what was lying just a few centimetres away from each footfall.

    After crossing the suspension bridge across the raging river, we climbed the other side and boarded our waiting bus. We all knew that we had less than 75 mins to catch the train as it passed through Ollantaytambo. This would not seem much of a challenge, but the roads here have to be experienced to be believed.

    For the next hour we crawled our way along goat tracks, passing several other vehicles with only a few cm clearance on each side. In some places the road was almost completely blocked with piles of huge rocks. At one stage several passengers had to get out in order to lighten the bus and increase the ground clearance. Our guide started to get noticeably nervous at our glacial rate of progress

    Just when we though the worst was behind us we noticed that the road ahead was blocked by a police roadblock. We all knew that if we stopped we would miss the train and the consequences would be disastrous. The only answer was to tell the driver NOT to stop. So that's what we did. The driver planted his foot and just ignored the waving policeman, narrowly avoiding running over his foot. We looked at each other in amazement. Would they send out an all points alert for the notorious Ghostriders in their runaway bus ???? Apparently not.

    To cut a long story short we reached the train station with only about 5 mins to spare, scrambled on the train and settled in for the hour long trip back to where we had just started from earlier in the morning.

    The train eventually stopped at the so called Km 106 point, deep in the jungle. If the famous Paddington Bear came from darkest Peru, this certainly looked like the sort of place that could have been his birthplace. We climbed out of the train and assembled at the start of the final leg of the famous Inca Trail.

    After passing through the checkpoint we started out on what was probably the toughest section of the entire trek. The path climbed relentlessly up and up, so that the river was soon hundreds of metres below us. Once again our ageing legs ached and our lungs heaved as we trudged on and on. We did not reach the resting spot until we had climbed around 1000 metres from the valley floor. It was only then that the guide told us that we were the fastest group he had ever had on this climb. In fact we had cut 60 mins off the "normal" time for this climb. I guess that is not so bad for a group of elderly travellers !

    For the next couple of hours the going was considerably easier as we passed through the magnificent rain forest known as the Jurassic Section. I must admit that you could almost be forgiven for thinking that we were walking through some sort of prehistoric forest, laden with miniature orchids, towering ferns and all manner of mysterious plants. Now and then butterflies fluttered through the dappled sunlight. It was a magical time.

    The final major challenge in approaching Machu Picchu along this trail is to negotiate the famous "monkey steps". This is an almost vertical wall of 50 stone steps. Presumably it was built as a final defense to fight off any would be invaders of the city. Nowadays it does a great job in almost killing the daily army of trekkers as they approach the final stages to the Sun Gate. This section is best done on hands and knees, but once it is achieved you can rest assured that the city is almost inn view.

    The final few hundred steps lead to the famous Inti Punku (Sun Gate). This is a narrow opening high in the mountains that allows the sun to shine directly into a window on the Temple of the Sun on the summer solstice. For the modern day trekker, the rewards of passing through the Sun Gate is that you get the most amazing view down to the city of Machu Picchu. This is a moment in anyone's life that I am sure they will never forget.

    After a few moments of savouring the view and reflecting on our achievements, we began the final climb down to Machu Picchu itself. An hour later we were there. It was a pity that about 6,000 others were there also. Of course most of the huge throng had not arrived via the trail, they had just taken the bus up from the train station at Aguas Calientes, way down in the valley.

    By that stage we were hot , exhausted and greatly dismayed by the huge throng of shoving and selfie stick carrying tourists that had invaded this sacred spot. We decided to quickly pass through and return early the following morning when it hopefully would be quieter.

    Before we could descend to the town we had to wait about an hour in a huge line of jostling tourists, all waiting to catch a bus. It was not pleasant. We finally squeezed onto a bus and completed the hairy zig zag drive down to Aguas Calientes (Hot Waters). This town has developed solely because of the massive tourist traffic to Machu Picchu. It is full of expensive restaurants, bars and gift shops. Wandering pan pipe playing buskers do a roaring trade entertaining the wandering tourists who have just climbed off the train from Cusco.

    For us, we just wanted a nice hotel, a shower and a clean bed. We actually got all three and a whole lot more. We find we had been booked into the best hotel in the town. With a tariff of around $500 AUD a night it was far above what we had been expecting to get. But we certainly were not complaining. We LOVED it. The El Mapi had beautiful rooms, luxurious showers, minibars, delightful beds, good Internet and a superb breakfast, in fact everything that an exhausted trekker could possibly want.

    After enjoying a superb final meal with our main guide, I returned to my room and went to bed. It was about 9 pm, pretty late I thought.    Læs mere

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    Exploring Machu Picchu

    23. maj 2018, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    After reaching the end of the Inca Trail yesterday, we were too tired to explore the lost city and chose to take the bus down to Aguas Calientes and return early in the morning. We hoped that this would enable us to miss the worst of the crowds.

    Catching a bus at 7.30 am we once again began the tortuous ascent back up to Machu Picchu. When we arrived about 30 mins later we discovered that, although the crowds were smaller than the previous afternoon, the masses were already beginning to arrive. When I was last here in 2010, it was at the end of the GFC and global tourism was in the doldrums. At that time it was actually very quiet and we were able to wander almost anywhere we wanted throughout the ruins. That has all changed now.

    Not only has the flow of visitors gone through the roof, but there have also been many restrictions placed on where you can now walk within the city. Apparently one of the main reasons for these new restrictions is the stupid obsession with people taking selfies. After several fell to their deaths in recent years in the attempt to take the ultimate selfie, now everyone else has to suffer for their narcissistic stupidity. I can never understand why some travellers feel the need to prove they have been somewhere by taking pictures of themselves in front of every landmark. Surely it should be enough that you know you have been to a place, without having to stand in front of it ?

    We tried to avoid the worst of the selfie stick generation and were spellbound as our guide revealed to us many of the secrets of this remarkable construction. Even though much of the original city is still covered by jungle, the part you can see is absolutely breathtaking. It is an incredible testimonial to the engineering brilliance and tenacity of this race of people. Unfortunately it all rapidly came to an end when the plundering Spaniards invaded in 1532. In spite of their building genius, they had no real defense against the guns of the Spanish invaders. The rest is history.

    After exploring the lost city we returned down the hill for a final time and then caught the bus back to Ollantaytambo. Then followed a tiring bus trip back to Cusco. Although Cusco is only about 35 km from Ollantaytambo as the condor flies, it is a tortuous 125 km by road. We arrived after dark and were bewildered at the chaotic traffic jam we drove straight into on the outskirts of the city. We gazed open mouthed through the windows of the bus as hundreds of tooting vehicles all jostled for survival on the rough and narrow streets. One thing is certain, I would NEVER be an UBER driver in Cusco.

    We finally arrived back at the Casa Andina Hotel just in time to experience an underground earthquake of magnitude 4.8. Apparently it was 10 km right under Cusco city. As I said previously, South America is never boring.

    We also received the news that tomorrow a city wide strike has been declared throughout Cusco. Most of the shops will be closed and the city will be in a partial lockdown. What was that I said about South America ?    Læs mere

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    A Striking Day in Cusco

    24. maj 2018, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    One inevitable thing that happens to me when I travel is that I find myself going to bed earlier and earlier and waking up earlier and earlier. After two weeks in South America I now seem to find it impossible to sleep any later than 5 am. Of course that also means that I am seldom up later than 9 pm in the evening.

    This morning was no exception. I found myself wide awake a little before 5 am. Of course my waking was probably precipitated by the loud shouting, detonation of huge fireworks and beating of big drums right outside my bedroom window. I pulled aside the blinds to see what was going on. Of course, today was the city wide strike and it looked like some of the strikers had decided to get to their business of celebration before the sunrise.

    As the small procession made its way down the street past our hotel I could not help but reflect on how different things are here. The protesters certainly didn't look too angry to me, it looked like they were actually having fun. I found myself really looking forward to a relaxed day in Cusco. If anything is going to happen here, it always happens in the central Plaza and our hotel is ideally situated right at the corner of the plaza.

    Since sleep had now well and truly evaporated, I got up and went for an early walk. Already the police were setting up road blocks and taking up strategic positions. I guess they had to be prepared for any eventuality, however remote. It seemed somewhat innocuous that the line of heavily armed police, complete with batons and riot shields were actually allowing themselves to be included in people's selfies.

    The sun rose to reveal another beautiful sunny day, just like the previous 13 days we have had in this country. One of my favourite pastimes when travelling is to just find a vantage point and watch people in action. Since this was our first "free day" it was the perfect opportunity to do just that.

    I sat on a chair in the plaza, enjoying the warm morning sunshine. All around me the shops of the plaza were shut tight, but the wandering vendors were doing a brisk trade. Young (and not so young) travellers waved their selfie sticks trying to find that elusive holy grail of the perfect selfie. Nearby I could hear the sounds of drums and whistles approaching. It turned out to be the first of many small groups of workers marching to the central square.

    As each group entered the plaza they clapped, shouted, blew their plastic horns and seemed to have an all round good time. The vendor selling plastic horns also seemed to be doing a brisk trade. Onlookers held their cameras high trying to catch another selfie with themselves in front of the workers. The police smiled and looked relaxed. Just another sunny day in Cusco.

    All this watching made me hungry so I bought a delicious sweet treat from a wandering vendor. It cost me 2 Sols (about 80 cents) and it was worth every cent.

    More groups entered the plaza and the police presence was strengthened. Maybe this will get interesting I thought, however the demonstrators seemed to be enjoying the sunshine just as much as me and soon they just disappeared into the surrounding streets. The riot police smiled and chatted and then eventually drove away. If it was a strike it was a very half hearted one.

    I read later in the day that Peru had actually suffered several earthquakes in various places in the past 24 hours. I hadn't felt any of them. I almost wished I had as it would have added some extra colour to the final day in Cusco.

    It is now 7.30 pm (almost time for bed). Outside there are still a few loud fireworks going off. Maybe they were left over from the demonstration that fizzled out before it actually got started.

    Tomorrow we have another very early start as we begin the long journey south to Puno and the famous Lake Titicaca.    Læs mere

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    Across the Altiplano

    25. maj 2018, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    They often say that there is nothing like a good night's sleep to make you feel on top of the world. If that is the case then I should be feeling terrific, because last night was nothing like a good night. In fact my final night in Cusco was a disaster.

    It certainly started OK. After grabbing a quick dinner and having a final walk around the perimeter of the plaza, I returned to my room, eagerly looking forward to an early night. By 9.30 pm I was in bed and drifting away to the mythical Land of Nod. By 12 midnight I was rudely and abruptly awoken by some extremely loud music coming from somewhere nearby. It went on and on.

    By 1.00 am I turned on the TV to try and get some distraction. By 2.00 am the music was still thumping away and my thoughts were turning murderous. By 3.00 am I had tried hiding my head under the blankets, putting my fingers in my ears, tossing from one side to the other. Nothing worked. The music played on.

    When the clock finally showed 4.30 am I gave up, got out of bed and spent some time on my computer. My only consolation was that I knew that we were going to have a very long time in the bus today and hopefully that would give some chance to catch up on lost sleep.

    After a quick breakfast we were met by a tall Quechuan, introducing himself as Karlos, or more particularly Kar-r-r-r-los (with a rolling r sound). He was going to be our guide today to safely escort us to Puno, about 350 km further south than Cusco.

    We were quickly ushered to a small bus that was parked outside the hotel. By the time we crammed all our luggage and our 13 travellers inside it was quite squeezy. The thought of 10 or more hours of travel in this bus no longer seemed quite so attractive. Fortunately I needn't have worried as the small bus was only used to transport us to the outskirts of the city where we were transferred to full size luxury tour bus. Beside our guide, Karrrrlos, we also had two drivers to rotate the driving duties. We all spread out, tilted the seats back and made ourselves comfortable.

    As we left Cusco behind we first stopped at the mighty Incan wall that marked the southern entrance to the city of Cusco. Each time we are presented with such a structure we have to marvel at the engineering brilliance of these people. How did they achieve so much in such a short time, without even having written language ?

    Steadily climbing we soon reached the massive central plateau, known as the antiplano. This massive region is mostly over 4000 metres above sea level and consists of a huge central flat region surrounded by towering mountains. Along the road we passed through a never ending succession of tiny towns, all languishing in the dust. All that was missing were a few tumbleweeds to complete the scene of desertion and dilapidation.

    After a lunch stop at a large roadhouse the journey continued. Each little town was preceded by a large speed hump, requiring the bus to almost slow to a stop in order to bounce over it. The towns themselves always consisted of several large petrol stations and a motley collection of half finished buildings. In fact nothing ever seems to actually ever get finished here. The skyline is populated by a sea of reinforcements pointing into the sky. I would have loved to have visited each town with an angle grinder, just to give all these unfinished buildings a proper haircut.

    After about 10 hours in the bus we had covered a distance of a little over 300 km. In Australia such a drive would probably have taken around 3 hours, but we were certainly NOT in Australia. Our final destination for the day was to be Puno, the city at the edge of the mighty Lake Titicaca. This massive lake is shared between Peru and Bolivia and, at 4000 m elevation, is reputed to be the highest navigable lake in the world.

    Before reaching Puno the bus had to travel through Juliaca. On our last trip to Peru in 2010 we all agreed that Juliaca must be the dirtiest, ugliest and dustiest city in all of Peru. By 2018 I think the place has deteriorated even further. I won't try to describe the chaos and filth of this crowded excuse for a city, but I would advise any would be traveller to NEVER consider looking for a hotel to stay in Juliaca.

    About 30 mins later we finally reached Puno. The sun had set but we were able to get our first sights of the mighty lake as we fought our way through the traffic into the centre of the town. Our hotel is the Casa Andina, not far from the centre of the city. The location is quite good, but none of us could ever understand how our driver managed to squeeze a full sized bus through narrow lanes without causing major damage along the way. It did require the additional services of an outside assistant and much reversing and manoeuvring to finally reach the hotel. But we did make it. Tomorrow we will explore the lake itself and visit the enigmatic floating islands of Uros.    Læs mere

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    The Journey to Mysterious Uros

    26. maj 2018, Peru ⋅ 🌙 7 °C

    Puno is a sprawling city of some 150,000 people, situated on the shores of the huge Lake Titicaca. The biggest challenge for any new visitor to this city is to survive on the rarefied atmosphere that you have to breathe at nearly 4000 metres above sea level. Even though we have now been living at high altitude for over 2 weeks, we still find that we regularly find ourselves short of breath. It is little wonder that our hotel has a large oxygen cylinder on hand in the foyer for anyone who really needs an oxygen boost.

    Our plan for today was to spend the morning visiting the famous floating islands of Uros. These amazing islands are entirely constructed of reeds and are home to around 2,000 indigenous Uru people. Just why they chose to live this strange lifestyle is open to debate, but the prevailing theory is that they retreated to the middle of the lake to survive attacks from the Quechuan (Inca) invaders, many hundreds of years ago.

    We were met at our hotel by our latest guide. She introduced herself with some completely unpronounceable name, but then said we could call her "Sue". That seemed entirely sensible. After a short bus trip to the port we boarded a private boat for a 30 minute ride to the Uros Islands. Just like every previous day we have had in South America, the sky was cloudless and the conditions were completely still. In other words, a perfect day for a cruise on this huge inland waterway.

    Our journey took us along a channel cut through the huge expanse of reeds and soon we were docking on one of the islands. Some of the local ladies welcomed us aboard as we sank into the soft carpet of reeds that bounced under our feet. The local people have an almost childlike manner and seemed genuinely pleased to see us (and hopefully not just because they wanted us to buy their handicrafts).

    Nearby we could numerous other floating islands, each one liberally dotted with dozens of tiny reed huts. It seems that everything here is made of reeds - the locals even eat them like candy. After an explanation as to how the islands are constructed we were ushered two at a time into individual huts to "spend time" with the owners. This was mainly an opportunity to sell their handwork, but the pressure was not too overwhelming and we all thoroughly enjoyed the unique experience.

    Our visit to the islands was completed by a journey in a reed boat to one of the nearby islands. This was a lot of fun and the warm sunshine really served to make this day a highlight of our adventure so far.

    Soon we were motoring back to Puno and an opportunity to have a free afternoon. I chose to do my favourite pastime while travelling - people watching. I wandered around the city for a most enjoyable couple of hours, stopping at various locations to sit in the warm sunshine and observe the people around me.

    Tomorrow we resume our Peruvian Odyssey as we progress to the lovely city of Arequipa. Our journey will take us even higher into the Andes. I wonder if the bus will be equipped with oxygen ?    Læs mere

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    Into the Land of Volcanoes

    27. maj 2018, Peru

    Whenever anyone travels in underdeveloped countries like Peru, one challenge which is commonly encountered, but seldom discussed, is blocked toilets. People who are not experienced travelers may not realize that, in most countries on earth, it is a definite no-no to put toilet paper in the toilet. Most hotels will have a sign next to the toilet advising that it is NOT for toilet paper. So what do you do with the toilet paper then ? They will always have a small bin next to the toilet which is specifically for the used toilet paper.
    Although this might initially seem quite gross to many, there is actually a very good reason for it. It is because the sewer pipes and sewer treatment plants (if there are any) are simply not designed to cope with anything other than human waste. Those who choose to ignore this direction are likely to see the very daunting sight of the water in the bowl rising to potentially disastrous levels and hoping that it will somehow unblock itself. This is just another example of things we take for granted daily in Australia, are quite different in other places.

    Why am I mentioning this ? I’d rather not got into too much detail, suffice to say that I might have had one of those nervous moments, just before checking out of our hotel in Puno. Of course, after our two nights in the city by Lake Titicaca, it was time for us to continue our journey towards Arequipa – the land of volcanoes.

    Our team loaded our luggage into the waiting bus and settled down to another long day on the road. In fact our journey was going to be over 350 km and would take us much higher than any other place we had visited so far in Peru. Fortunately the roads were generally quite good and our new driver proved to be capable and careful.

    During the morning we continued across the flat altiplano at an almost constant elevation of around 4000 metres. The warm sunshine coming in the bus window soon made me sleepy. In fact, lately I am discovering that just about everything makes me sleepy. When I looked around the bus I saw that many of the others had already succumbed and were fast asleep.

    The kilometers slowly ticked away until we started to climb steadily. We passed a succession of beautiful high lakes, some populated with pink flamingoes. When we finally pulled to a stop it was to admire the breathtaking views (and at this altitude, everything is breathtaking) and to be entertained by a small group selling all sorts of handicrafts. Up to now I had strongly resisted the urge to get out my wallet, but it must have been the thin air, or maybe the fact that we only had a few more days in Peru, or maybe it was because the sellers were really good natured and ready to bargain.
    Whatever the reason I found myself happily picking up an assortment of goods and handing over a number of Sols (Peruvian currency). It actually felt good to be making the traders happy although I am not exactly sure how much my bag will weigh when I get it to the airport at Arequipa.

    After the retail therapy, the mood in the bus was quite light hearted as we compared what we had purchased. The kilometers continued to slowly tick by. The elevation continued to increase. At around noon we stopped at a rather barren looking roadside stop to eat our box lunches. The coffee was excellent and the weather was absolutely perfect. We were also joined by our new guide. I did not catch her full name, but I think it was something like “Liz” or “Lisa”. This means we now parted company with Sue who had been an excellent educator and anecdote sharer for the past two days.

    A little while later we saw the first volcanoes. I was very surprised that it was actually spewing forth an impressive cloud of smoke and ash. I had previously though that the volcanoes in this region were extinct. I could now see that they certainly aren’t. Lisa (or Liz ?) assured us that it was safe and that it was some years since it had rained death and destruction on the region.

    At the highest part of the journey (almost 5000 metres) there were large patches of ice beside the road and countless other travelers had stacked rocks to form thousands of rock piles that stretched far in every direction. Of course we had to do the same, it would have been a sin not to do so. We each made a small rock pile, photographed it and then climbed back into the bus.

    The next stage was a hair raising descent down to the town of Chivay (pronounced kibay). Our lives were very literally in the hands of the bus driver, but fortunately he was not suicidal and delivered us safely to our hotel for the night.

    Tomorrow morning we rise (very) early to go to Colca Canyon to view the huge condors. These massive birds have wingspans up to 3 metres or more, making them one of the largest flying birds on the planet.    Læs mere

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    Up Close with the Condors

    28. maj 2018, Peru

    Some days are destined to stick in your mind for a lifetime. Today was such a day. After an early 4.00 am alarm, we set out from our hotel at 6.00 am for an exciting drive along the edge of the spectacular Colca Canyon to an elevated vantage point known as the Condor Cross.

    The main aim of our early morning was to observe the mighty condors as they rise from their cliff side nests and catch the rising thermals to soar high into the sky. Any such bird watching activity comes without any guarantees. We knew that it would be possible to spend considerable time perched on the edge of the precipice and not see a single bird.

    The first 30 minutes went by without seeing a single condor. I started to get slightly anxious. "I am sure they will appear at any moment" I stated. Actually I wasn't, but I did not want my anxiety to be passed on to the rest of the team. We waited some more. Then the first condor appeared. A cheer went right. Then another. And another. Soon there were 6 or more in flight at the same time. We were going to be in for a treat after all.

    For the next 60 minutes we sat mesmerised by these huge birds as they glided back and forth over our heads, looking to catch that elusive thermal updraft. At times they flew so close that we could clearly see their heads. I am sure that no one was disappointed.

    If that was not memorable enough, we then went on a walk along the cliff tops of the canyon, and to our sheer joy, several condors followed us at close quarters. It was almost as if they were attracted by our yellow jerseys. Whatever the reason it was a moment that we will all cherish for a very long time.

    After the walk we met our new cycling guides and climbed aboard our allotted bikes and started a challenging ride along the side of the canyon. It was not so challenging because of the climbs, but because of the thin air and the fumes from the nearby erupting volcano. From time to time we all burst into fits of coughing, alternated with fits of laughter.

    The final part of the ride consisted of an extended technical MTB descent over a rock strewn dirt track down to the valley floor. It was like riding a bucking horse, but the feeling was absolutely exhilarating.

    It was very obvious that this team was nowhere as experienced or as professional as the cycling team we had worked with in the Sacred Valley. Not only were the bikes no so well prepared, but the guides often seemed to be lost along the way. The lunch was "forgettable" to say the least, and the "support vehicle" looked like it needed life support itself. In fact it was so bad it was quite funny. At the end of the day I passed on a few suggestions (ie instructions) as to how they needed to improve for the final day of riding.

    Tomorrow we complete the final day of cycling and finish a long day in Arequipa, the city that nestles under the shadow of the mighty active volcano Mt Misty. I hope it can delay its next overdue eruption until we are safely out of the area.    Læs mere

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    Down to the White City

    29. maj 2018, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    If anyone came on our 2018 South America Trip expecting it to be an easy tourist doddle around the continent, they would have been greatly mistaken. This trip was never designed to be "easy" and, ever since we landed in Lima three weeks ago, the pace has been pretty relentless. Yesterday was no exception.

    The day began with my alarm(s) simultaneously sounding at 5.00 am. With the high altitude and deliciously cold overnight temperature I had enjoyed one of the best night's sleeps of the entire trip and it took a degree of discipline to open my eyelids and crawl out from under the blanket.

    Outside it was still dark, the air was still and the stars were shining brightly. It already looked like the day would be just as fine and clear as every other day since we arrived in South America. In fact, the run of continuous fine weather has been nothing short of amazing.

    In my half awake state I quickly sorted out my cycling gear, added a thermal top and jumper and stuffed everything else into my suitcase. Either the case is getting smaller or the contents are getting larger, because the zipper is getting progressively harder and harder to close. After a bit more wriggling and rearranging of items I was able to lock the case and take it to the hotel foyer.

    At 7.00 am we were met by a new bus and driver. It was just as well as there was no way we would have been able to cram all our riders and luggage into the small bus we had been provided with yesterday. Since this was to be our final day of riding I think there were mixed feelings within the group. While many were happy to be successfully completing the cycling part of our adventure, I think that there was also a feeling of sadness that our time in Peru was drawing to a close.

    The bus headed out of Peru and was soon climbing steadily out of the Colca Valley. The narrow road had somewhat precipitous drops down to the valley floor and we often collectively held our breaths as the driver slewed the bus around each corner. He was certainly a more "adventurous" driver than most of the previous drivers we had had. I grabbed on to the seat in front to avoid being thrown from side to side, although I did manage to avoid the temptation to adopt the dreaded "Brace" position.

    We finally reached the top of the plateau at around 4,900 metres elevation. We calculated that this was about 5 times as high as our own Mt Donna Buang, therefore a new scale of elevations was born. We therefore classified this as a "5 dongers" ride. Challenging in anyone's language.

    We stumbled out of the bus and were soon confronted by the twin sensations of freezing temperatures and painfully thin air. The surrounding ponds were all frozen solid - and so soon were all my fingers. Immediately I regretted my negligence in leaving my long fingered gloves in my suitcase. All I had between my extremities and impending frostbite was a pathetic pair of fingerless riding gloves. Sometimes my own stupidity surprises me.

    We were soon on the bikes and ready to go. The guide pointed towards Arequipa and the towering silhouette of Mt Misti. This huge active volcano is situated right near Arequipa and would be our constant companion during the day. To our right the now familiar Mt Sabancaya was letting fly with yet another early morning volcanic eruption. It no longer seemed as dramatic as it did two days ago.

    We started riding through the eerie landscape. When I was here last I described it like "riding on Mars" and my opinion had not changed. At this elevation there is almost no vegetation, apart from some moss on the rocks. Thousands of piled rock towers dot the landscape and a few tiny black and white Andean mice scuttered about between the rocks. It really is like an alien world. At least the bitumen was smooth and the traffic was very light.

    Within a couple of minutes my fingers lost all feeling. I tried to switch on my GoPro camera but could not feel the buttons at all. I started to wonder how long it takes for genuine frostbite to set in. I have shared the company of my ten digits for quite some time and was not ready to part company with any of them just yet. I even tried riding with one hand in my pocket, just to relieve the pain. I helped a little.

    Of course the other challenge was the very thin air. At this elevation you find yourself hauling in huge lungfuls of air, just to keep moving. With the high altitude also come very low humidity, so you also find that your throat dries out completely. This makes it almost impossible to swallow. It is certainly an interesting challenge.

    In these conditions every person is affected differently. While some really struggled to make any headway, others did not seem to notice any difference. This is where Janna amazed everyone. While most were languishing to make headway, Janna just effortlessly cruised up every hill, just as if she was riding the Warburton Trail. David also reverted to his usual behaviour of riding away, completely oblivious to anything or anyone behind him. Even when we called for rest stops, no amount of shouting would stop him from just disappearing into the distance as an ever diminishing red dot.

    As we rode along we were often accompanied by small herds of vicunas. These lovely animals are a type of camel and have some of the best fleece available anywhere in the world. They are all coloured brown and thrive at these harsh high elevations. From time to time they stopped, put their heads back and let out a high pitched cry as we rode by.

    Each time we reached an uphill section (and there were many of them), the going really got hard. Even in the lowest gears it required a supreme amount of effort to keep moving. Each time I crested another hill I hoped for a long descent. It never came.

    At the end of 35 km of this section, we finally reached the turn off. My GPS showed that we were still at 4500 metres (4.5 Dongers). It was no wonder it still seemed hard. At least the temperature had increased and my fingers had thawed out. One by one our riders arrived at the turnoff. Some were not in a coherent mood. What Lynda (aka Fumblefingers Maconnachie) actually said when she collapsed over the line cannot be printed on a public blog site. Suffice to say it would have made a hardened sailor blush. Others had already made the sensible decision to call it quits and revert to the support vehicle.

    We were then shown a pot holed, rock strewn dirt track and told that this would be a downhill section. It wasn't. It actually alternated between hair raising, bone shaking downhills interspersed with tough little climbs. We were still well above 4 Dongers of elevation when we finally arrived at a small village.

    I looked at the remnants of our once large and proud peloton. "Well done everyone", I said. "That is now the end of our cycling and no one had an accident". I was wrong.

    Just when I thought the riding was over, the guide took off again. It was a steep uphill. My thoughts at that time were not pleasant. I reluctantly climbed back on the bike and headed off again.

    A short distance further on my worst fears were realised. I rounded a corner and found Steve lying motionless on the rocks. He had apparently come adrift on a particularly treacherous corner and had fallen heavily. After a few moments he stirred and started examining his body for protruding bones and areas of bleeding. Fortunately it looked like he had escaped serious injury, but was quite shaken. At that point I lost my appetite for further cycling. The thought of being admitted to a Peruvian hospital did not excite me greatly. I decided to walk the remaining few hundred metres to the real end of the trail.

    That marked the real end of the riding section and, apart from Steve's recent incident, we had all escaped from serious mishaps. It had been a great effort from a group of "mature aged" riders. Of course we could have settled for a sedate holiday, but we had all chosen to do something that required a real effort. It had been a wonderful experience that I am sure no one will ever forget.

    After a picnic lunch by the railway track we climbed down a steep path to see some amazing rock paintings in a cave. These date back some 10,000 years and are amazingly clear and well preserved. The hard part was climbing all the way back up the path to the waiting vehicle. It had already been a long day.

    We finally rolled into Arequipa at around 4 pm. The traffic was bedlam, just like it is in all large Peruvian cities. Arequipa has a population of 1.6 million, making it the second largest city in Peru and it looked like they were all driving on the same road as us.

    After checking into our hotel and enjoying a well earned shower and change of clothes we took a walk to the beautiful central plaza. Arequipa is known as the "white city" because of the stunning array of lovely colonial buildings, all constructed out of white volcanic rock. A few of us chose a balcony restaurant to enjoy the evening view down into the plaza. At "only" 2500 metres (2.5 Dongers), we savoured the denser air and found that we didn't have to struggle to breathe every time we moved. It was a wonderful sensation.

    Tomorrow we have a rest day here before flying out early the following morning for the Iguassu Falls in Brazil. Another 3.00 am start ! Oh well, someone has to do it.    Læs mere

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  • The World on Two Wheels2018 South America AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    A Free Day in Arequipa

    30. maj 2018, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    After almost three weeks of keeping up a hectic range of activities, it was a rare treat to have a day of relative leisure. This gave us the opportunity to spend some time wandering the beautiful streets of the historic centre of Arequipa.

    You do not have to go far to appreciate the Spanish colonial history that permeates this part of the city. The narrow streets and white volcanic stone buildings really are a lovely feature. Of course the major highlight is the Plaza Mayor, the major plaza. The plaza itself consists of a lovely grassy park surrounded on all sides by lovely white stone buildings.

    The plaza is dominated by the Arequipa Cathedral. The original structure was built way back in 1540, but almost immediately was destroyed by a large earthquake. Over the successive centuries it was destroyed and rebuilt numerous times. The catastrophes ranged from earthquakes to volcanic eruptions to large fires.

    The most recent such catastrophe was a large earthquake that occurred in 2001. This destroyed the left hand bell tower and severely damaged the right hand one. By this time, however, it appears that the locals had become adept in recovering after such events and, a little over 12 months later, the damage was repaired.

    Today our group dispersed over the city and I actually never saw any of them at all during the day. David and I even waited in the foyer at the end of the day for over an hour without so much as seeing a single one of our team. I guess that means that they are having a good time.

    Having failed to meet any of the others, David and I took the beautiful back route to the centre of the city and had a most enjoyable quick meal at one of the popular eateries in the mall. On the way back we stopped to watch a talented mime artist who had attracted a large crowd of onlookers. We had to admit that he really was very good and his entertainment was well worth the few sols we tossed into his hat. It was a perfect end to our time in this fascinating city.

    Tomorrow morning we rise early to avoid yet another city wide strike (such strikes are a part of life in South America). We begin with a flight to Lima and then a much longer flight across the desert and Amazon Jungle to Iguassu Falls in Brazil. It will be our first time down at relative low altitude in almost three weeks. We are all looking forward to feeling superhuman.    Læs mere

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  • The World on Two Wheels2018 South America AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    Into the Rain Forest of Iguassu

    31. maj 2018, Argentina ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Well today had just about everything. It began with a 4 am alarm and an early morning dash through the back streets of Arequipa to beat the blockade around the city by striking workers. It certainly was an interesting way to start a new adventure. At one stage the road was blocked by a large rock in the middle, but our driver managed to wriggle the bus around it.

    Then we entered the tiny check in area of Arequipa airport to find it in a state of complete chaos. The check in queues stretched as far as we could see. If that wasn't bad enough , the departure time for our flight was actually brought forward by 25 minutes.

    After eventually boarding our flight to Lima we arrived at the Lima airport just in time for a full blown fire alert, with sirens, flashing lights and an immediate full evacuation of the terminal buildings. For some time we stood on the tarmac, surrounded by fire and emergency personnel. It was one of those moments.

    One thing we did notice and appreciate was the extra oxygen in our air. After spending the past three weeks cycling, trekking and living between 3000 and 5000 metres, it was a real delight to be able to exert ourselves without having to gasp for air.

    We finally got back in the building in time to board our flight to Iguassu. The flight travels over some of the most incredible barren landscapes you could see anywhere (see the images). Most of the plane was filled with Japanese and Koreans whose behaviour was dreadful. Every time the stewards asked people to return to their seats because of turbulence, the aisles were full of these people wandering and stumbling all over the place. You would think they had never been on a plane before.

    We finally landed in Iguassu in Brazil just after dark, only to find only 1 immigration desk open resulting in a very long wait time. When we finally reached the primitive baggage collection area we were relieved to find all our luggage, but many other people from other groups were not so lucky. Apparently many bags went somewhere else. That was a problem we could well do without.

    We left the terminal and were relieved to find a new guide and luxury bus waiting for us. We were also bemused to see the first rain we had seen since leaving Melbourne. After first crossing the border into Argentina we took a short 30 min bus ride to the best hotel, right next to the famous waterfalls - surely one of the natural wonders of the world.

    We are now all safely ensconced in the lovely Melia Hotel, right next to Iguassu Falls in Argentina. The rooms are sheer luxury and the free dinner they provided for us (because we are the famous Ghostriders) was divine. It's a pity that we could not spend more time here.

    Tomorrow we tour the falls from both the Argentina and Brazil sides.

    We were warned not to leave our hotel windows open because the monkeys will enter our room and steal our stuff. We really are a long way from Peru now.    Læs mere

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  • The World on Two Wheels2018 South America AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    Up Close at Iguassu

    1. juni 2018, Brasilien ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    The mighty Iguassu Falls was recently voted as one of the seven natural wonders of the world. This is more than can be said for Victoria Falls or Niagara Falls, both of which missed the final cut.

    The falls themselves are situated in the north east of Argentina on the Iguassu River. This huge river forms the natural border between Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. When I had last visited this place in 2010 I was only able to view the falls from the Argentina side. Even so I remember thinking that it was one of the most amazing sights I have ever seen. Soon after that visit I was able to travel to Africa to view the famous Victoria Falls, and I must admit that I was a little disappointed that it was not as memorable as Iguassu.

    On this time I had arranged the plans so that we would be able to view the falls from both the Argentina and Brazil sides of the river.

    Our first stop was on the Argentina side. Rising early we caught a bus to the entrance to the Iguassu Park and then took a slow 30 min train ride to the Devil's Throat, the largest and most spectacular of the hundreds of waterfalls that make up the complex. An elevated steel walkway took us to the very top of the falls. This walkway was recently washed away in a large flood and had to be completely rebuilt. Fortunately the river was not in flood this time, so we were able to make the walk safely.

    As you near the thundering torrent, a huge spray of mist saturates anyone brave enough to venture near the cascade itself. The plastic ponchos which many of our group paid 4 Sols (about $2) each for, did very little to keep us dry. They did serve to make all of us look like grade A, certified clowns.

    After an hour or so exploring the walkways on the Argentina side, it was time to return to the bus and prepare for another series of border crossings as we returned back into Brazil. From this side you are not as close to most of the dramatic action, but the advantage is that you can see almost the entire span of falls from a single viewpoint. The effect is absolutely mindblowing. In a single second, almost 2 million litres of water flow over the edge. In flood times this volume can increase a staggering 20 fold. In times of drought the flow can reduce to almost zero. Fortunately, at the time we were there, the falls were neither in flood or drought. In fact they were just about right.

    Just as important was the fact that the fine weather that has followed us for the entire time we have been in South America, held on for another day. This is a high rainfall area where it rains almost every day, but NOT on the day the Ghostriders paid a visit.

    After another drenching and hundreds of photos, it was finally time to say bye to the falls and return back to Argentina to catch our flight to Buenos Aires. The tiny airport on the Argentina side is currently undergoing major rebuilding and the place was in a bit of a mess. This leg of the trip w as the only time we would be flying with Argentine Airlines (all other legs were with LATAM).

    We had been warned that Argentine Airlines had recently reduced their baggage allowance from 23 kg to only 15 kg. With this in mind we approached the check in desk with fear and trepidation. I needn't have wooried. When I dragged my large 21kg bag to the scales, the lovely check in girl just smiled and handed me my boarding pass. "Too easy" I thought, and wandered to join the rest of the group.

    A few moments later I was joined by David. Something was wrong. He was absolutely livid. "That $^@@&$ girl made me pay excess baggage", he yelled. I must admit that I had never heard him swear like that. I had always thought him to be quiet and dignified.

    "You have really had a LOT of luggage", I suggested. He replied that his total luggage was only about 17kg. I decided not to tell him that I had exceeded his total by a good 4 kg and paid not a cent extra. he already seemed to be well past his breaking point. He went and sulked in the corner, counting how the lost $40 would affect his future retirement plans. Oh well, life sometimes is never fair. I secretly smiled to myself and went to have a cup of coffee.

    A couple of hours later we were landing in Buenos Aires. Actually it really did feel like we weer landing right in the middle of the city itself. The Aeroparque domestic airport is right near the centre of the city. As we descended to land I could see the large illuminated high rise buildings passing by a few metres past the end of our wings. For the while it felt like we were driving along the freeway, as I could almost wave to the drivers moving along parallel to our plane. Even with the "exciting" landing I was still a little surprised when all the passengers broke into excited clapping and cheering when the plane landed without careering off the end of the runway and into the centre of town. Maybe it is unusual for planes to survive such a landing. I was just relieved to be on the ground. It almost felt like the pilot had landed us at the door of our hotel, just to save a bit of time.

    After collecting our luggage (and David having collected his tiny, but very expensive bag) we were met by an energetic local lady who introduced herself as "Sandra". It is always a relief when you land in a foreign city to be met by someone who is expecting you. Soon we were escorted to our large waiting bus and driven to our nearby hotel.

    After getting our room keys we all went out in search of dinner. Buenos Aires is a large, modern city and is often likened to the Paris of South America. Since nobody eats their evening meal here until after 9 pm, we were certainly not out of place walking into a restaurant at about that time. In fact I think we were one of the first ones there. The food was excellent, but the waiter's insistence on being rewarded with a generous tip is a little hard for us Australians to get used to.

    Fortunately the beds in the Cyan America Tower Hotel were huge, warm and comfortable. Sleep came easily.    Læs mere

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  • The World on Two Wheels2018 South America AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    We Explore the Big Apple

    2. juni 2018, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Since most of our group will only have two days in the huge city of Buenos Aires I looked for some way to give them the very best introduction to some of the unique sights and experiences this place has to offer. I finally came up with an all day sequence of activities that seemed to encompass the best aspects the "Big Apple".

    At 9.00 am our group was gathered in the foyer waiting for our guide and bus to arrive. Fortunately we did not have to wait long before a young, blonde Argentinian girl walked in the door and introduced herself as Mercedes. "Just like the car", she added.

    We climbed into a very comfortable bus and headed out into the streets of the city. Even though it was a Saturday morning, the traffic was very light and the driver had no trouble making his way from place to place. Over the next 4 hours we were able to experience a wonderful succession of fascinating locations.

    The first of these places was the large manicured parkland, situated quite close to our hotel. Apparently it had been designed by a French architect and this certainly showed in the beautiful layout. Another nearby huge sculpture featured a huge stainless steel flower which apparently opens and closes its steel petals according to the amount of sunlight falling on it.

    The next stop was the somewhat macabre Recoleta Cemetery. The most famous "resident" of this place is of course Evita Peron, however it is well worth visiting for its curiosity value alone. Over the course of over a century, the wealthy and powerful citizens of Buenos Aires had huge mausoleums constructed so that they could be buried in the style to which they had become accustomed during their lifetimes. Many of these structures are massive and even feature multiple levels and basements. The sad thing is that the process of decay is unstoppable and all of these tombs are steadily deteriorating and returning to dust and ashes. Some still contains the fragile remains of flowers that were placed there following the funeral, so many years previously.

    Of course no visit to the Recoleta would be complete without visiting Evita's grave. Every day passionate admirers still adorn her mausoleum with fresh flowers and gifts. Considering she died over 60 years ago, this is quite incredible.

    Unfortunately Evita was not the only dead item in this location. While taking my photos, the memory card in my camera also decided to die. Perhaps it was some sort of curse for poking my head through some of the broken doors to old graves, or maybe it was just bad luck, but the card just failed for no reason and, along with its demise, went all the pictures I had taken that morning. Fortunately I had backed up all the previous images the night before, or else I really would have been quite upset.

    We then proceeded to visit the central plaza, featuring the Casa Rosada. This is the official office of the President of Argentina and was most famous as being the place that Evita addressed her adoring supporters from the balcony.

    Also in this location was the main cathedral of Buenos Aires. We entered just as a mass was taking place. Somehow we seemed to take a wrong turn and sort of got involved in the liturgy, much to the chagrin of the organist and cantor. I had to admit I was more than a little embarrassed, although I did enjoy the amazing acoustics of the place. It took all of my self control not to break out into my famous Benedictine chant of "My Father can play dominoes better than your father".....

    We slowly worked our way out of the city and finally ended up at the town of Tigre (tiger) situated some 35 km from the heart of the city. It was here that we climbed aboard a powerful cruiser and headed off through some of the myriad of channels that make up the river delta. The most amazing feature of this location is that around 4000 people have set up residence here. They have built a kind of hippy world of stilt houses and piers, all steadily sliding back into the mud of the delta. This was an entirely unexpected and fascinating insight int this alternative way of life.

    After returning to our hotel for a rest and a change of clothes it was time for our entertainment for the evening. We had booked a dinner and tango show at the famous El Quarendi. According to my research this is one of the best tango shows in the city. Since I know nothing about the tango, I had no idea what to expect.

    When we arrived at the sumptuous restaurant/theatre we were ushered to the very front table. That was a surprise since I thought we would be given the cheap seats. The waiters started serving various types of wine which was good for the drinkers in our group but not very exciting for me. Since I had idea about the food I decided to just accept the waiters suggestions for each course.

    By 10 pm the final guests had arrived and the music started to begin the tango show. Over the next hour we were entertained with some extreme high speed tango dancing and brilliant music. Since I was at the front, there were times when I could feel the swish from those long fishnet stockinged legs, just a few cm from my face. It was certainly enough to make a simple guy feel all hot and bothered. It was soon clear that the real secret of the tango is that it is really all about sexual excitement and stimulation. Even though it was well past my normal bedtime, I managed to stay awake for the whole show.

    When the show ended and my heartrate started to subside we were told that "our bus was waiting outside". We piled out into the cool night air and laughed about what we had just seen. It was a perfect beginning to our time in this captivating city.    Læs mere

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