A Striking Day in Cusco

One inevitable thing that happens to me when I travel is that I find myself going to bed earlier and earlier and waking up earlier and earlier. After two weeks in South America I now seem to find it impossible to sleep any later than 5 am. Of course that also means that I am seldom up later than 9 pm in the evening.

This morning was no exception. I found myself wide awake a little before 5 am. Of course my waking was probably precipitated by the loud shouting, detonation of huge fireworks and beating of big drums right outside my bedroom window. I pulled aside the blinds to see what was going on. Of course, today was the city wide strike and it looked like some of the strikers had decided to get to their business of celebration before the sunrise.

As the small procession made its way down the street past our hotel I could not help but reflect on how different things are here. The protesters certainly didn't look too angry to me, it looked like they were actually having fun. I found myself really looking forward to a relaxed day in Cusco. If anything is going to happen here, it always happens in the central Plaza and our hotel is ideally situated right at the corner of the plaza.

Since sleep had now well and truly evaporated, I got up and went for an early walk. Already the police were setting up road blocks and taking up strategic positions. I guess they had to be prepared for any eventuality, however remote. It seemed somewhat innocuous that the line of heavily armed police, complete with batons and riot shields were actually allowing themselves to be included in people's selfies.

The sun rose to reveal another beautiful sunny day, just like the previous 13 days we have had in this country. One of my favourite pastimes when travelling is to just find a vantage point and watch people in action. Since this was our first "free day" it was the perfect opportunity to do just that.

I sat on a chair in the plaza, enjoying the warm morning sunshine. All around me the shops of the plaza were shut tight, but the wandering vendors were doing a brisk trade. Young (and not so young) travellers waved their selfie sticks trying to find that elusive holy grail of the perfect selfie. Nearby I could hear the sounds of drums and whistles approaching. It turned out to be the first of many small groups of workers marching to the central square.

As each group entered the plaza they clapped, shouted, blew their plastic horns and seemed to have an all round good time. The vendor selling plastic horns also seemed to be doing a brisk trade. Onlookers held their cameras high trying to catch another selfie with themselves in front of the workers. The police smiled and looked relaxed. Just another sunny day in Cusco.

All this watching made me hungry so I bought a delicious sweet treat from a wandering vendor. It cost me 2 Sols (about 80 cents) and it was worth every cent.

More groups entered the plaza and the police presence was strengthened. Maybe this will get interesting I thought, however the demonstrators seemed to be enjoying the sunshine just as much as me and soon they just disappeared into the surrounding streets. The riot police smiled and chatted and then eventually drove away. If it was a strike it was a very half hearted one.

I read later in the day that Peru had actually suffered several earthquakes in various places in the past 24 hours. I hadn't felt any of them. I almost wished I had as it would have added some extra colour to the final day in Cusco.

It is now 7.30 pm (almost time for bed). Outside there are still a few loud fireworks going off. Maybe they were left over from the demonstration that fizzled out before it actually got started.

Tomorrow we have another very early start as we begin the long journey south to Puno and the famous Lake Titicaca.Read more