The End of the Nivernais

Back in 2023 a group of 10 Ghostriders first rode the Nivernais Canal. At that time it was a real "wild card" ride. We had no idea of what to expect as the Nivernais is one of the lesser known rides in France. On that occasion we began in Decize and rode to Joigny, The ride took place in October, right at the end of the canal cruising season. We saw only a handful of boats and almost no other cyclists.
We arrived in Decize after a long and tiring series of train rides. After getting off the train, it did not take long to realise that our hotel was at least two kilometres away. It would have been awful walk, wheeling our luggage on the rough footpaths. The group was ready to mutiny. It was just at that moment that we spied a small cafe. The jovial owner made us feel really welcome and soon announced that her husband would take us to the hotel in his tiny car. Several trips later, we were all safely settled in our comfortable hotel at the Port Decize. It had been a wonderful and timely intervention. We were so grateful for their help that we exchanged phone numbers and have kept in touch ever since. When our plans were made to return to ride the Nivernais once again, I promised that I would pay my French friend a visit. So that is what we did.
After riding the Nivernais for 5 days, today was also going to the final day of riding along this incredible canal system that we have come to know and admire so well. What an incredible piece of engineering it is, especially considering the crude construction equipment they would have been using when it began back in 1780.
After leaving Corbigny we had around 52 km to ride. With our newly enriched fitness and considering the ride was mostly gently downhill, our plan was to reach Decise in time to share lunch with Gaelle (my French friend). It was somewhat of a relief that there was a light cloud cover to give us some relief from the sun, Combined with the absolutely still conditions, the cooler weather was perfect for riding. With the changing terrain, we were only seeing locks at much greater distances apart.
Since we were riding to a schedule, our plan was to look for a coffee break at least 25 or more km from Corbigny. We found that towns are rather scarce along this section and we did not find a likely place until we reached Cercy La Tour, about 35 km along. We happened to arrive right in the middle of some sort of trash and treasure market. It looked like the whole town had come out to swap their own rubbish with the rest of the town's residents. Each stall consisted of a pile of old books, cracked kettles, headless dolls, worn clothing and the like. The quality of the goods did not seem to matter, the people were in a buying frenzy. As for us, we were just looking for coffee.
In the middle of a market melee, we found something resembling a sausage sizzle, and managed to buy tiny cups of coffee and little trays of chips. It was better than nothing and it did give us a good chance to have a lovely chat with a couple of local gents who spoke good English.
It was then back on the bikes for the short ride to Decize. The entry to Decize is rather drab and industrial, further reminder that this major town marks the end of the Nivernais Canal. It is at this point that the Nivernais joins the mighty Loire River that will be our recurring theme for the next 1000 km. It was at Decize that we also discovered the first real traffic we had encountered since leaving Paris. Once we left the bike path, we had to share with a never ending succession of cars and trucks, Although the route to the hotel was a little hair raising, it did give us our first glimpse of the Loire River as we made our way over a very large bridge.
We arrived at the hotel at about 12:45, just in time for the prearranged lunch meeting with Gaelle. She had brought along her daughter Jade and Jade's partner Nicolas. We discovered that Nicolas spoke excellent English and acted as chief translator. The occasion was made even more special, since we had happened to arrive on Gaelle's Birthday. The luncheon turned out to be an informal Birthday Party, sing a long and laughter fest. It was yet another reminder that it is such interactions with people that make travel so enjoyable.
After a (very) long lunch and lots of hugs, we bade farewell to our French friends, not knowing if we will ever see them again. Tomorrow we have a relatively short ride of about 37 km to Nevers. That will officially mark the end of the Prologue ride and the beginning of the Loire a Velo route to the Atlantic. That is also the place where we will lose Mark 3, but gain 6 new members of Group 1. Paul and Catriona Wansbrough, John and Jenny Brain and David and Libby Ellis will be our much needed reinforcements for the rest of our ride.Read more