Our First Real Chateau

It would have been easy to stay in Briare for a longer time. It is easy to see why it is such a popular holiday location for the French. The combination of lovely waterways, colourful flowers everywhere and historic streets really does make it a treat for the eyes. Unfortunately we were only too aware that our schedule called for us to move on to the next stop - Sully Sur Loire, about 45 km further along the Loire a Velo bike path.

Before we left the town completely, we did have one very important task to do and that was visit the Boulangerie to buy some supplies for our picnic lunch along the way. Once we had our panniers loaded with baguettes, cakes and drinks, it was time to hit the road (or at least the bike path). The very best cycling conditions are in the early mornings, when the air is cool and clean. These benign conditions usually last until around 12 noon, when the sun seems to suddenly get much hotter and the cycling becomes more challenging.

While we were looking for a coffee stop, somewhere near Gien, we somehow managed to get caught up a local fun run. It was a little confusing and somehow, we found ourselves sharing the course with a large number of runners. I don't know how it happened, but I think I may have accidentally come in ninth in the over 70 category.

It was a very pleasant surprise when we stumbled upon a delightful shady picnic location at the Eglise San Gondon. In fact it would have been hard to imagine a more appropriate spot to stop and enjoy our lunches. Soon after we arrived, the nearby church bells peeled the Noon salute, which is such an integral part of European village life. After finishing my baguette, I felt so relaxed I just had to lie on the grass for a few minutes. Somewhat rude fellow riders later told me that I had been snoring, but that is something I could never believe. It could have been one of those famous European Barking Spiders lurking nearby in the bushes.

After our picnic, it was back on the bikes for the remaining modest ride into Sully Sur Loire. This turned into a big surprise as we arrived, right in the middle of some sort of village fair. Someone said it was like Antiques Roadshow only much bigger. Whatever it was, it was huge. Hundreds of cars had parked anywhere they could find a space, including right along the bike path ! In contrast to the succession of completely empty towns we had ridden through since this ride began, this one was busting at the seems. I was surprised that we had been able to get accommodation, as it must have been in short supply.

Our home for the evening was the comfortable Hotel Burgevin. I was pleased to hear that my room was on the ground floor, but this came with one serious problem. Whenever I opened the blind, I was greeted by people walking past in the street, just a metre or so from my bed. I guess you can't have everything. When I tried out the shower, I discovered to my delight that the towels were easily the best we have had so far. They were large and luxuriously fluffy. Bathing heaven.

Later in the afternoon I walked back to the impressive Chateau Sully Sur Loire and the nearby fair. My attention was drawn to the sound of French horns and I found that there was some sort of competition between the best and most brightly dressed horn players of the district. There were 18 contestants and they each took a turn to play the same piece of music. The thing that I found amusing was that, as each one played their piece, they turned their back to the audience. I guess this was because the sound came out at the back. Some combined their musical efforts with body movements that could have had me mistaken that they were playing the famous trouser trumpet, rather than the French Horn. It was another simple and unique insight into the French culture.

We had been told that our dinner would be at the nearby Entre Loire et Sologne restaurant. The only problem was that, when I checked their website, it clearly said that they were closed on a Sunday night. A check of my calendar confirmed that this was indeed a Sunday, Curiouser and curiouser.

I formed a walking peloton of our group, not knowing if the door would be locked or unlocked. It turned out that they had opened just for us. We had the large premises all to ourselves. It was a genuine Soiree Prive. The only staff was the chef (and prsumably the owner) and his attractive 17 year old waitress. Although we didn't get a choice of items, the food was well prepared and presented. It was a memorable end to a fun day.Read more