Sør-AfrikaProvince of Northern CapeNama KhoiSpringbok29°39’58” S 17°52’57” E
5. april 2012, Sør-Afrika ⋅ 24 °C
Thursday 5th April – Goodbye to Cape Town
At breakfast I looked out of the window up to Table Mountain. Although it had only been 4 days since we arrived in Cape Town, I think we had all grown very fond of that massive rock, especially after we had climbed to its summit. But as pleasant as our stay in Cape Town had been, it was now time to move on and experience the real Africa. We packed our gear and bade farewell to the hotel that had been a very comfortable home for our stay in Cape Town.
The drive from Cape Town to Springbok was well over 500 km and took us deep into the Namaqualand Region and close to the border with Namibia. On arrival at our campsite we had our first chance to practise setting up the tents. This was made a little more difficult by the fact that we had arrived just before nightfall and had to do most of our unpacking in the dark.
Already Cape Town and Table Mountain seemed a long way away. It had been a long day in the bus and we were all keen to get some rest. I fought to find some order in the jumble of gear that I had deposited in the tent, but one thing was certain – it was far too mild to sleep inside the sleeping bag. Propping my bag behind my head for a pillow and using the sleeping bag for a mattress it did not take long for me to drift off into a comforting sleep.Les mer
NamibiaKaras27°36’37” S 17°36’22” E
6. april 2012, Namibia
Friday April 6th – Good Friday in Namibia
After an uneventful first night in the tents, we broke camp early and head north to the border crossing into Namibia. The border between South Africa and Namibia is delineated by the Orange River (and it is NOT orange in colour). Although I suspected that the border crossing would be hectic and crowded, in fact it was almost deserted with only a few other people quietly wandering around. We cleared South African immigration quickly and crossed the Orange River into Namibia.
The facilities on the Namibian side were much less sophisticated with the two immigration officers watched over by a large smiling portrait of the president. Somehow, I could not help but think he looked more like a friendly Uncle Remus than the President of Namibia.
Namibia is a huge country with a scant population of only 2 million people. This means that you can drive for long periods of time without sighting either another vehicle (or even another person). Namibia was formally known as South West Africa and was controlled as a de facto fifth province of South Africa. It was not until 1990 that it gained independence, although South Africa retained control of Walvis Bay and its important harbour facilities for a further four years.
The most dominant geographical feature of the country is the mighty Namib Desert and this is of course what gives the country its name. Although it looks at first to be a desolate and inhospitable place, a closer examination shows that it actually teeming with a wide diversity of animal and plant life that has adapted brilliantly to living in this environment.
Not long after crossing the border we stopped for morning tea at a quiet township with the evocative name of Bethanie. This is one of the oldest settlements in Namibia and was the site of the first missionary activity in 1814 by the Rev Heinrich Schmelen. Although Schmelen became disillusioned and left in 1822 there are still several very large churches in the town that bear testimony to the ardent fervour of the early missionary pioneers.
I stood in the middle of the wide main street and looked in both directions. There was certainly no danger of being run down by the traffic – there wasn’t any. In fact the whole town looked like everyone had just packed up and left. Since the coffee shops of Cape Town were now fading into distant memory we were all feeling like we would sell our souls for a single cupful of caffeine. The only problem was it did not look like we would find a coffee shop in this ghost town.
After wondering for a short distance I stopped in front of what looked like a hotel.
The front edifice was completely uninspiring, but I decided to poke my head in the door and see if there was anyone home. I was greeted by a smiling lady who invited me to come inside out of the sun. I followed her through a couple of large dark rooms and to a beautiful open courtyard area. Equipped with may tables and chairs and decorated with collections of cacti and other plants it was a fantastic discover. It was a complete surprise that such a wonderful oasis would be hiding behind such a drab exterior. To me it is these unexpected turns of events that I call the “serendipity of travel”.
I returned to the street and called in the rest of the group. We then spent a wonderful 30 minutes or so drinking coffee and chuckling over how unexpected it was to find such a delightful spot.
Late that afternoon we arrived at the famous Fish River Canyon. At 100 km long and up to 27 km wide it is claimed to be the second largest canyon in the world. Its depth is quoted as 550 metres (not quite as deep as the 4000 metres of Colca Canyon in Peru). Down in the base of the canyon we could see the diminutive Fish River which had been responsible for gouging out the great hole. We walked along the rim of the canyon for a couple of kilometres before gathering to watch the ball of the sun drop below the western rim of the canyon.
Because it was Easter and the therefore the time of the full moon, as soon as the sun disappeared in the west, the full moon rose behind us on the eastern horizon. Gazing at the huge disc of the moon I was reminded yet again of our theme “Under African Skies”.
Our campsite for the night was the Canyon Roadhouse. This turned out to be one of the best campsites of the entire trip. The roadhouse itself had a magnificent collection of old cars, machines, signs and assorted other memorabilia. The ablutions block and toilets were first class. In the middle of the night the moon shone so bright and clear that there was no need of torches to find your way about.Les mer
NamibiaHardapSossusvlei24°44’23” S 15°17’15” E
8. april 2012, Namibia
Saturday 7th April – To Sossusvlei
Today marked another very long day in the bus, most of it on unsealed and often heavily corrugated roads. Our destination was the famous sand dunes of the Sossusvlei. These are the largest such dunes in the world and their high content of iron gives them a distinctly red/brown colour.
Just before sunset we stopped near a large dune to get our first experience climbing such a challenging obstacle. For each step forward you feel as if you are sliding backwards two. The sand itself is much finer than beach sand, in fact it resembled the sand in an hourglass. When picked up in the hand it just slips away between your fingers. Although it was a strenuous climb the view from the top was well worth the effort. With the sun rapidly heading below the horizon the colours of the surrounding flat desert change rapidly before your eyes. It turned out to be another unforgettable experience.
The day had also given us our best wildlife sightings of the trip so far. Among the animals we had seen were springbok, zebras, ostriches, eagles and many, many more.
After dinner we learned that the next day would begin at 4.15 am! Anyone who was under the impression that this trip was going to be a doddle would have been sadly mistaken. This news was a challenge to those who liked the luxury of sleep, but we were assured that the lack of rest would be compensated by one of the absolute highlights of the entire adventure. We staggered off to bed, exhausted but also excited at what the following day would bring.
Sunday 8th April – Easter Sunday and Sunrise Over the Sossusvlei
Saturday evening was bright and clear but quite cold. Once again the full moon shone over our campsite like a second sun. At 4.15am we were up and packing for the day’s activities. By 5 am we left the camp and drove about 45 km to the “dune 45”, so called because it is situated at the 45 km point on the road from Sesriem.
The government of Namibia has also given permission for tourists to climb this dune. Its size and location make it a popular spot to watch the sunrise in one of the world’s truly remarkable natural wonders.
We arrived at the dune just as the eastern skies were beginning to brighten and started to make our way along the dune’s ridge line. With the fine sand and the steep slope, it was hard going with each footstep sinking deeply into the sand. I decided to stop at point a little away from the main group so that I could watch the sunrise in quiet and solitude, knowing full well that this would be the only time that I would privileged to witness this event.
Far below me the colours gradually seeped into the flatlands and I could begin to make out grazing springboks and ostriches enjoying the cool stillness of the pre dawn. Occasions liek this are more than just a tourist attraction, in a very real sense they can be a sort of spiritual journey – flooding your soul with a sense of wonder, peace and wellbeing.
After the sun had risen I resumed the climb to the very top of the dune and joined some of the others from our group. It was then that we decided it would be fun to run down the steep side of the dune, all the way to the bottom. And we were right – it really was FUN!
Down we ran, hooping and hollering with childish delight at the sheer exhilaration of the experience. The descent was combination of leaps, slides and hops and I noticed that each person adopted their own unique style of locomotion.
We then made our way back to the bus where Richard was waiting for us with breakfast. After breakfast we drove a short distance to a remote location for a 5 km desert walk. In the middle of the day temperatures here can easily soar to over 50C so I was glad the sun was still relatively low in the sky. With hats and sunscreen for protection we headed off with Tickey leading the way and pointing out numerous examples of desert adaptation. The ground underfoot was white on the surface but a deep red brown underneath wherever the thin surface crust was disturbed. For some distance we were followed by a curious ostrich.
After about 2 hours we reached a flat salt pan known as the Deadvlei. This pan was once filled with water but has now dried out to leave a white flat expanse, dotted with the preserved remains of long dead trees (some over 500 years old). It was an eerie place and by that time we were all getting far too hot and dry to stay for long.
We made our way back to a 4x4 parking area and caught a ride on a specially adapted 4WD vehicle for a rough and exciting drive back to our bus. An hour later we were back at our campsite. Tickey broke the news to us that in the evening we would be having dinner in one of the finest resorts in Namibia – The Sossusvlei Lodge. That was a pleasant surprise but at the time we did not know exactly what to expect.
After breaking camp, we loaded the bus and drove a short distance to the Lodge to make our dinner reservations. It soon became evident why is costs over $US400 a night for a room here. That was way out of our budget, but we got another pleasant surprise when we were driven to the Sossusvlei Lodge Camp Ground. This was no ordinary campground as it consisted of a neat row of permanent tented lodges, each with its own ensuite toilet and bathroom, kitchenette and outside table with a view out to the desert and the distant mountains. Now that is the sort of camping that I could easily get used to. All in all it was a camping heaven.
Bob and I sat at our outside table and watched the springboks grazing lazily in the late afternoon sunshine. I was also able to utilise the hot water and large sink to catch up with my laundry, knowing the warm desert wind would ensure that it would dry quickly. I am sure that all our team will look back on this location as another of the high points of the trip.
At 6.30 pm I donned my finest shorts and sandals and climbed back on the bus for the short drive back to the Lodge for our desert dinner. By this time the sun had set, and the moon was just beginning to rise in the east. The atmosphere at the dinner certainly lived up to the price tag. The tables were all elegantly dressed in an impressive array of silverware and adorned with dozens of candles twinkling in the African night.
The meal itself was served buffet style with dozens of options available for the adventurous eater. For the main course we could choose from a selection of a dozen or so game meats (anything from warthog to ostrich) and then have it barbecued to your satisfaction while you watched. I chose impala although I don’t think I’ve ever seen one. It turned out to be lean and tender although I did feel rather guilty for eating it.
I thought that the only thing lacking for this magnificent banquet was some live entertainment. It would have been a great opportunity to feature some African music and dancers but apparently they had never thought of it.Les mer
NamibiaErongoSwakopmund22°40’36” S 14°31’53” E
9. april 2012, Namibia ⋅ 15 °C
Monday April 9th – Easter Monday – 365 km in the bus
I got up early to watch the sunrise over Sesriem and the grasslands. There was absolutely no wind and, when the sunshine washed overhead, it revealed another cloudless sky. After packing our bags, we returned to the Sossusvlei Lodge for a buffet breakfast before setting off another long day in the bus. The roads in this region are wide, unsealed and corrugated – all making for a rattling time in the bus.
Our morning tea stop was at a wonderful outpost with the evocative name of Solitaire. It really was an amazing place, just like an oasis in the middle of a huge desert. The area surrounding the central building was decorated with the remains of numerous old cars and tractors. Outside the front door was a blackboard detailing the rainfall figures for the past three years. It was worth noting that this appears to be increasing and in 2011 it was a surprising 471mm. No wonder that the desert seemed to be bursting with new life.
The outpost had good, clean toilets and a rotund and jovial Afrikaner baker. When I told him he looked like we enjoyed the fruits of his labour, he quickly replied that he had actually lost 40 kg in weight. Apparently he had been a body builder on a regular diet of steroids but had now retired and he no longer ate sugar. I guess this would be hard to do when you had the reputation of producing the best apple cake in Namibia.
Our bumping in the bus continued for about another hour until we came across a family from France whose hired Range Rover had broken down in the desert. We were able to assist them contact the car supplier in Swakopmund who promised to send a repair crew to help them out.
As we travelled further and further north the nature of the landscape changed from rocks and sand to much greener flat fields – surprisingly green in fact. This is certainly a demonstration of the incredible life giving power of water.
Lunch was held in the shade of a solitary tree by the side of the road. The noon day sun in this region was hot and scorching and we were grateful of any shade we could find. I think we were all looking forward to reaching the Atlantic coast and the prospect of more temperate conditions.
After heading north for many kilometres the road swings to the west in the final 100 km to Walvis Bay on the Atlantic Coast. This township of 25,000 people is like an oasis in a vast desert and reminded me of Dubai. Although a kilometre out of town there is not a blade of grass to be seen, within the space of a few hundred metres you enter a verdant expanse of green manicured lawns and the relentless click-clack of dozens of garden sprinklers.
On the actual waterfront there is a row of huge new mansions that indicate that at least some of the population is prospering. The bus pulled in at the beach front and we stepped out onto the waterfront walking path to savour the cool and refreshing ocean breeze. Jan called out “Did you see that ?” and pointed out to the ocean. At first we had no idea what she was talking about, but then we noticed dozens of large dark fish leaping out of the water a metre or more into the air. It was the first time I had ever witnessed such a spectacle and it certainly became my most vivid memory of this place. In spite of the leaping fish there was not a single fisherman to be seen, in fact the entire town seemed deserted.
Perhaps this was because it was Easter Monday and everyone had stayed home in bed for the day.
Walvis Bay has the deepest port in Southern Africa and is a very strategic shipping centre. That is why South Africa refused to hand over ownership of this area until 1994 when Nelson Mandela became president and finally gave the port to the Namibian people. Further back in its history Walvis Bay was a British protectorate and you can see ample evidence of this in its architecture and street names. On the other hand Swakopmund, a bare 30 km further north, has an overriding German feel.
Swakopmund is a similar sized town to Walvis Bay and is regarded as the adventure capital of Namibia because of the wide variety of adventure activities you can arrange from here, anything from quad biking to parachuting. We quickly developed a fondness for Swakopmund because of its comfortable climate, waterfront location, broad clean streets and wonderful restaurants. The entire waterfront area is landscaped with beautiful gardens and palm trees.
Unfortunately our hotel room at the Dunedin Guesthouse was tiny and the hot water was not working for the entire time we were there. When we complained to the manager all we were told was some story about “a problem with the geyser”. This had us scratching our heads, but I assume it meant some sort of valve. Whatever the problem was, it was obviously too difficult for them to fix and so we suffered under freezing showers for two whole days. On the other hand, the very pleasant atmosphere of the town helped to make up for these hardships.
On the first night of our stay we all enjoyed a wonderful seafood dinner at the Ocean Basket restaurant. It was one of the best dinners of the entire trip.Les mer
NamibiaErongoSwakopmund22°40’36” S 14°31’53” E
10. april 2012, Namibia ⋅ 16 °C
Tuesday 10th April – Free Day in Swakopmund
After the hectic and relentless pace of the previous few days it was a good feeling to have a free day to just chill out, catch up on diary writing, explore the town and do a little shopping. I left the hotel and wondered through the town down to the waterfront area and engaged in some light hearted banter with a couple of eager spruikers at the craft market. Most of these guys speak excellent English and were very friendly, although obviously very keen to convince me that their stuff was worth buying.
Due to the combination of closeness to the ocean, well organised street layout, manicured gardens, wonderful restaurants and very mild climate Swakopmund proved a very popular place with our group. The only disappointment was the Dunedin Guesthouse. Apart from the lack of hot water the bathroom was cramped, windowless and damp and the electricity was inclined to turn itself off and on again at random intervals. I would strongly advise other travellers to Swakopmund to give this place a wide berth and look elsewhere.
For dinner we believed we had a group booking at the TUG Restaurant. This is a large converted tugboat perched right on the Atlantic Coast at the base of the pier. It has a reputation for fine food and an atmosphere that would be hard to match anywhere in the world.
Our problem was that when we arrived at the restaurant the receptionist told us that the booking had accidentally been written into the book for the previous evening ! In spite of this they still found us two large tables right up in the wheelhouse. We arrived just after sunset and could watch the enormous breaking waves crashing into the rocks just below us. It is easy to feel that we were on the edge of an enormous ocean, in fact if we continued westwards the next landmass we would encounter would be the east coast of South America.
The meal itself was indeed delicious and actually not as expensive as we feared it might have been. When we emerged at the end of the meal, we found that the evening was fine and clear. The sky above was ablaze with starlight and made a wonderful counterpoint to the huge waves beneath our feet. We decided to walk out to the end of the long pier and get a closer look at the ocean. I cannot recall a more impressive pier anywhere. As we walked further and further out you could feel the immense power of the waves as they crashed against the pylons under our feet. The lights of Swakopmund gradually retreated into the distance behind us as we walked towards the large Japanese sushi restaurant which is perched right at the end of the pier. We felt a little cheeky and decided to gatecrash the restaurant to see what it was like inside. We found that sections of the floor have been replaced with large transparent panels allowing the patrons to see the floodlit roaring ocean literally right under their feet.
It had been a remarkable evening and we were all in high spirits as we strolled slowly back through the town to our hotel. It was a perfect was to end our brief interlude in Swakopmund before heading back out into the wilderness of Spitzkoppe and Etosha National Park.Les mer
NamibiaErongo21°49’32” S 15°11’42” E
11. april 2012, Namibia
Wednesday 11th April – To Spitzkoppe
Within a kilometre of leaving Swakopmund we were back in the desert. Without the moderating effect of the ocean the temperature quickly soars, and it is easy to see why the region just north of here is referred to as the “Skeleton Coast”.
This country can be wild and unforgiving. The only difference between life and death is access to drinking water. I wondered where all the water to maintain Swakopmund’s green gardens comes from and was told that it is piped in from underground aquifers many kilometres from the city, but there are also plans to build a desalination plant.
During the day we travelled many kilometres over unsealed and badly corrugated roads until we finally gained our first views of Spitzkoppe. This is a stark granite outcrop, dramatically soaring some 1700 m above sea level. The surrounding desert was dotted with numerous huge termite mounds and small scraps of vegetation.
With the sun rapidly setting we reached our campsite and rapidly set up the tents. Unlike previous sites, this site really was a rough affair but the incredible surroundings made up for the lack of facilities. We were introduced to our guide and set off on a brisk walk to the top of one of the rocky outcrops. The climb was steep and achieved with the aid of a thick chain anchored to the rock face by steel posts every 5 metres or so.
At the top there are some examples of rock paintings, some dating back thousands of years. We then climbed further up to a large cave in the side of the rocks while our guide danced and sang for us in some of the local Damara language. With the sun now rapidly disappearing behind the rock we watched spellbound as he clicked and danced, all the while precariously located on an elevated rock which he referred to as his “stage”. In the tropics darkness falls swiftly and soon I became a little concerned at the prospect of climbing down the rock face and finding our way back to the camp in the dark.
Fortunately we all made it down without accident but the walk was something of a struggle. We had been warned about the venomous snakes in this region and I certainly did not want to step on one as I stumbled along. In spite of the darkness, our guide seemed to know exactly where he was going and made sure that we all got back to camp safely. By that time it was pitch dark.
After dinner we were entertained by six local singers who sang some beautiful songs to us. It was especially touching when they sang the Namibian National Anthem and asked us to stand as a mark of respect. It was very evident that the people here share a genuine affection for their young nation. It was a fantastic end to a very memorable day.Les mer
NamibiaKuneneKamanjab19°37’42” S 14°50’36” E
12. april 2012, Namibia
Thursday 12th April – 420 km to the Himba Village
There are two alternate routes from Spitzkoppe to Kamanjab, however recent heavy rains in Angola had resulted in flooded rivers and meant that we had to follow the much longer route (over 400km in fact). As we travelled the landscape underwent a steady transformation from barren and rocky to scrubby bushlands punctuated by short trees and thin wispy undergrowth.
The day’s drive took us much further northwards towards the famous Etosha National Park and the border with Angola. Our final destination for the day was the region on Kamanjab, home of the Himba Tribe. Along the way we passed through the town of Outjo, regarded as the gateway to Etosha. This place is a real frontier town with several banks, petrol stations, supermarkets and a school we would not get over the feeling that our every move was being watched by dozens of hungry eyes. A large proportion of the local population seemed to have no occupation other than to sit about, drink beer and ask tourists for handouts. This is one place I would not have felt comfortable travelling through on my own.
After stocking up on food, water and other supplies, we were on our way again.
The narrow road to Kamanjab was paralleled by a telephone line whose poles had become the foundation for numerous social weavers’ nests. These huge nests can be a metre or more in diameter and are often shared with other cohabiting animals such as wasps. We also found a tribe of baboons who were using the posts to gain an elevated view of their surroundings.
We arrived at the Himba Village quite late in the day. Unlike the Damara, these people have ignored the modern world and chosen to live in much the same way that they have done for thousands of years. Although we noticed that the menfolk are more inclined to wear jeans and T shirts, the women still wear little more than a short apron around their waists. They spend most of their days looking after their cattle and fixing each other’s hair. Apparently they do not wash after reaching puberty, preferring instead to follow a daily routine of purifying themselves with a small smoky fire. The most unique feature of the women is their hair. This is styled into thick braids which are then covered with a liberal layer of mud, giving them a Medusa like appearance. In spite of their apparent lack of western hygiene and their mud covered hair, Himba women are often regarded as the most beautiful in Africa.
Bob was so infatuated with the Himba women that he decided that it would be a good idea to marry one of them. He selected a well built specimen and we conducted a short ceremony for the happy couple. Unfortunately he didn’t possess enough cattle to legalise the marriage and, alas for poor Bob, he had to return to his tent alone.
In spite of their appearances the Himba are quite a wealthy tribe, deriving most of their income from their cattle and also from selling handicrafts to tourists.
The campsite was in an isolated spot and, once the sun went down, we were treated to another brilliant display from the stars overhead. I stood outside in the middle of the night and marveled at the brightness of the Milky Way. Before the coming of the industrial age and the invention of artificial lighting, I guess this was how the stars would have appeared all around the world.Les mer
NamibiaOshana18°59’29” S 15°44’46” E
13. april 2012, Namibia
Friday 13th April – Etosha National Park
As we broke camp early the indications were that we were headed for another fine and hot day ahead. After another brief stop at the Himba Village we drove back to Outjo on our way to Etosha. As we were enjoying a coffee at a very nice bakery, I met a guy who had been travelling for most of his life. Originally from Germany he had spent 20 years moving all over the world before finally settling in Namibia in 1994. I was curious as to what he did for a living that would enable such a wandering lifestyle. He replied that, although he had left Germany many years ago, he still received a full German pension. He went to explain that it was plenty to give him a very good lifestyle in Namibia. Judging by the huge hot breakfast that was sitting in front of him it certainly appeared that he was not suffering. Germany must have a very generous pension scheme indeed.
We returned to the bus and travelled the remaining 120 km to Okakuejo. This settlement marks the entrance to the 26,000 square kilometre Etosha National Park, regarded as one of the finest national parks in Africa.
Just before entering Etosha, we stopped a Cheetah Park to see some cheetahs at first hand. The cheetahs were held in a large paddock surrounded by a very secure and high fence. The African keeper brought along a bucket of fresh meat and called out with a loud “Come Cheetah Come”. At first nothing happened so he tried his call a few more times until three large cheetahs emerged from the grass and came up to the fence. This gave us all an opportunity to feed them the meat (on the end of a long stick so that we didn’t lose our fingers in the process). I was surprised to hear them make a loud mewing noise, not unlike that of a domestic cat.
We happened to arrive at our camp site at peak hour, along with several other safari groups. In spite of this the camping ground was in excellent condition and the water in the shower was HOT (with a capital H).
Not long after entering the park we saw our first elephant and numerous zebras.
All on board the bus grabbed their cameras and started a clicking frenzy. In is hard to believe that within 24 hours a similar encounter would be met with a satiated indifference.
A large proportion of the park is occupied by a flat salt pan known as the “Etosha Pan”. As we approached it in the fading light it looked like a huge inland sea, however as we got closer we discovered that the water was a mirage and that the pan was completely dry. We did observe numerous animals enjoying the cool of the late afternoon. Groups of giraffes and springboks were scattered as far as we could see. With their rapidly lengthening shadows I could not help but think that the scene looked like something from the dawn of time. I wondered how many millions of times this scene had been re enacted.
After sunset we walked to a nearby waterhole on the edge of our campsite. This was securely fenced off to protect onlookers from whatever came along to drink on the other side. It did not take long for a huge bull elephant and 5 rhinos to emerge from the darkness to enjoy a long time of drinking and splashing about in the water. I was glad that I had smothered myself in insect repellent and I hoped that the malaria carrying mosquitoes would keep their distance from me.
Not long after going to bed that night the entire campsite was rocked by a series of loud roars, indicating that the lions were wandering quite close nearby. Heard under these circumstances it really did sound like an important statement from the King of the Jungle. Still later the same night I was woken by the piercing screeches of wandering jackals and, even later, by a car alarm. I did not mind the jackals, but I could have killed the owner of the car.Les mer
NamibiaOshana18°59’29” S 15°44’46” E
14. april 2012, Namibia
Saturday 14th April – In Etosha National Park
We awoke early to take the bus on an early morning game drive. This is the best time to view the animals before the heat of the day sends them scurrying for shade and shelter. It did not take long for us to come across huge herds of hundreds of zebras and springboks grazing together. Somehow I had not expected to see zebras in such large numbers and the sight caught me by surprise. I was also amused to hear the zebras loudly making a noise like a cross between a dog and a donkey.
Apart from the zebras we also came across grazing groups of impala, oryx, kudu, wildebeest and giraffes. In fact, the sheer density of life in this place is amazing. Later in the day we climbed back aboard the bus for another game drive. Once again, we were blessed with viewings of an abundance of wildlife. The most dramatic of these was a close and clear sighting of a black rhinoceros drinking at a waterhole. These are among the most dangerous of all the animals in the park and have a reputation for being aggressive and ill tempered, likely to charge at any perceived provocation.
That evening I returned to the waterhole, once again lathered with repellent. This time there were two large elephants drinking, dramatically backlit by an almost continuous display of sheet lightning in the near distance. In the middle of the night when I was sleeping in the tent, I was awakened by crashing thunder, lightning and heavy rain. There was a rush if frantic activity to close all the zippers and waterproof the tent. I called out to Bob for help, but he had switched off his hearing aid and blissfully spelt through the entire exciting episode.
The storm raged for about 20 minutes but served to clear the air of excess humidity and ensured that the next day was cooler and more comfortable than the previous few days.Les mer
NamibiaNamutoni Airport18°48’29” S 16°56’24” E
15. april 2012, Namibia
Sunday 15th April – To Namutoni Camp
It was somewhat of a relief to find that the overnight storms had broken the run of hot weather. Today was positively cool by comparison. We began at 6.30 am, struggling to pack up the wet tents then started out on a slow and meandering drive to Namutoni Camp at the eastern border of the park. It was the site of a German fort in colonial times and this heritage is still clearly evident. At first glance the main building looks like something you would see in a Beau Geste movie. I half expected to see the French foreign legion come marching through the entrance.
Along the way through the park we saw more groups of giraffes and untold numbers of zebras, wildebeest, springbok and impala. We even spotted two cheetahs hiding in the long grass. The undoubted highlight was when we came across a recent zebra kill and were able to watch a group of jackals and pied crows fighting over the remnants. It was a dramatic demonstration of the flow of life in the wild.
The fort itself is a whitewashed structure, complete with battlements and corner lookout towers. Surrounding the fort is a large collection of small chalets and an extensive camping area. Like the previous camp at Okaukejo, this camp also had a fenced waterhole where you could sit and watch the animals come to drink.
During the afternoon while I was relaxing in the camp ground we witnessed the spectacle of a mongoose invasion (migration ?). Dozens of the little striped mammals appeared from nowhere and were soon scurrying everywhere around us. We were warned to lock the tents as the little creatures have a reputation for being “very naughty” and would cause havoc if they got inside. About 20 minutes later the little mongeese were nowhere to be seen. They had disappeared just as quickly as they had appeared. Africa is full of such surprises around every corner.
Another pleasant surprise was the soft green grass that covered the camping area. It certainly was more comfortable that the stony ground we had experienced at every previous site. I guess this was a sure sign that we were moving towards a completely different type of geographical region. Gone were the deserts of Namibia and we were now heading towards the much wetter region surrounding the Okavango Delta.Les mer
