Western Victoria not only blessed with some of the most spectacular coastal scenery in Australia, but it also has a wide variety of cycling trails, most of which we have never explored before. This week we are planning to ride five of them. Read more
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  • Another Adventure Awaits

    April 22, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The packing is almost done. Well not quite almost. It might be more accurate to say that the packing has begun (sort of).

    Somehow Maggie and I have managed to spread cycling gear, clothing, food, toiletries, underwear and clothing from one end of the house to the other. For some reason this stage of utter chaos seems to precede every extended trip, so I guess this one should not be any exception.

    When we finally manage to cram all the assorted stuff into a couple of cases, and then jam those cases into the car, then we can tackle the task of loading the bikes onto the bike carrier. Our plan is to complete all the packing tonight so that we can get underway very early tomorrow morning.

    Although it might not seem like it at the moment, I am sure that everything will finally its correct place and we will be able to look forward to another amazing cycling experience.

    Our first ride will be the Bellarine Rail Trail, from Queenscliff to the outskirts of Geelong. While we could have just driven to Queenscliff, most of the group have decided to start with an overseas voyage on the Sorrento to Queenscliff Ferry.

    Once we arrive at Queenscliff, we will park the cars in Queenscliff and set off on the ride. The forecast is looking very promising at this stage, so we are confident that we will be able to complete at least one ride without getting soaked.
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  • Day 1

    Day One and the Wheels Fall Off Already

    April 23, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    In less than four month’s time this same group of geriatric riders are scheduled to complete a complex series of rides in various places around Europe. Judging by the comedy of errors that plagued today’s (simple) ride, I now have serious reason to feel concerned.

    The plan was that we were all to catch the 10 am ferry from Sorrento to Queenscliff. In order to eliminate any possible confusion, we even insisted that everyone prebook their ferry tickets in advance. It was a foolproof plan, or so I thought.

    The instructions advised that we should arrive at the ferry terminal “no later than 40 minutes” prior to departure. To be on the safe side, Maggie and I set the alarm for 5 am, quickly got ready and were happy to be underway by 7 am. We had an uneventful drive and managed to arrive in Sorrento at about 8.30am. This gave us time to sit in the car and relax while we waited till the appointed boarding time.

    Soon afterwards we noticed that David and Carol were already in the queue for the ferry. The problem was that they had joined the wrong queue. They were on their way for the 9 am departure! Thinking that we could save time by following them through the ticket booth and then waiting for the correct ferry, I decided to join the same queue.

    The problem was that the grumpy lady behind the window had no patience for seniors, and left us in no doubt that we would have to leave and come back at the proper time. She actually got me so flustered that I temporarily forgot my own name and also how to drive. As I drove away from the window, I could hear her torrent of abuse and violent hand waving, following me out of the car park.

    We joined Gordon and Sue and Greg and Andrea Doherty, who were watching proceedings from the vantage point of the main carpark. A phone call to David and Carol informed them that they had completely ignored my directions and were now on the WRONG ferry. They didn’t seem concerned. With only 10 minutes to go till the 9 am departure, there was nothing that could be done. Or was there ?

    With the hour hand rapidly approaching 9 o’clock, we raced out of the carpark and back through the ticket window. Although I expected another lashing of abuse, we were quickly rushed through, and took our positions on the boat. It was a bit like one of those chase scenes where the criminal just manages to leap their car across the water, onto a departing ferry.

    Now that we were all on the wrong ferry, we had to let Michael and Christine know that we would not be meeting them at 11 am as arranged. I gave Michael a call to see how far they had come.

    “We are now all on the 9 am ferry, and will be reaching Queenscliff at 10 am” I explained.
    Michael sounded sleepy. “Oh, was that today ?” he asked.
    “Where are you?” (It was obvious that they were nowhere near Queenscliff).
    Michael explained that he had decided not to ride, and would meet us at Drysdale around 11 am. I suppose other things could have gone wrong, but at that time I could not think of any. The ride was falling apart before it had even started.

    At least the weather was playing its part. We enjoyed a smooth crossing and were soon parked in Queenscliff, unloading our bikes. At least eight riders had made it to the start.

    After a scenic roll around Queenscliff, we were enjoying a lovely ride along the Bellarine Rail Trail. It had been some years since I had last ridden this trail, and I had forgotten just how pleasant it is. The surface was excellent and the sunny day and lack of wind gave us perfect cycling conditions.

    Michael and Christine were waiting at Drysdale, although Michael was a non rider. At least Christine was able to join the peloton, increasing our number to nine. Another 8 km brought us to Leopold, where we had planned to have lunch.
    We had previously chosen the Rolling Pin Pie Bakery as a suitable location for lunch, however when I followed the GPS instructions, there was no pie shop to be seen. I looked back and forth, trying not show panic while the rest of the group looked on with quizzical expressions.

    Just as I was about to admit that I had stuffed up, I saw the sign across the road. Lunch was saved after all. Once we had filled our faces with pie and coffee, everything seemed much better.

    The return ride was achieved at a significantly faster pace that the outward ride, probably because I put the women at the front.

    “All the women are to ride at the front”, I explained. David immediately took this as an excuse to leave the rest of men and ride with the pink shirted females. Obviously he identifies as a 75 year old lady. Personally I don’t have a problem with that.

    Back at Queenscliff, we took some time to climb to the top of the impressive new lighthouse and look out over the harbour. It really had been a superb start to our riding adventure, even if almost nothing had gone according to the original plan.
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  • Day 2

    Day Two - A Walk in the Tree Tops

    April 24, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    We all knew that it was going to be a long and tiring drive from Queenscliff to Warrnambool. What I didn’t know was that Maggie was going to choose the absolutely most challenging route possible – one that would send us to the very limit of our sanity.

    At least things started well. Apart from some thick early morning fog, which quickly dissipated as the sun rose, the day was as about as perfect as any autumn day could possibly be. Although we could have chosen the quick and easy (and direct) route to Warrnambool, Maggie insisted that we follow the Great Ocean Road instead. I had to admit that it was spectacularly beautiful, although the narrow, winding road did mean that I had to concentrate fiercely as I rounded every blind corner. The large number of cyclists also added considerably to the level of driving difficulty, since it was impossible to pass them without crossing over double lines to the wrong side of the road.

    Soon the elevated road started playing havoc with Maggie’s fear of heights. She started accompanying each bend in the road with an interesting, but alarming, sequence of gasps and hand clenches. It made it seem an awful lot longer than it probably was.

    Eventually we reached Lorne, where we decided it was time for a coffee stop. Maggie decided to ring Andrea to see how far they had driven. It turned out that they hadn’t driven anywhere – they were still at the motel, just waking up.
    Apparently they had lost all sense of time and were somewhat surprised that it had somehow “got late, early”. Although they had been looking forward to driving the Great Ocean Road, it was now far too late for that.

    Somewhere along the line, Maggie had read about the so called “Otway Fly”, a treetop walk through the rain forest. She decided that we should include it in our already busy day schedule. What she didn’t tell me was that, in order to get from Lorne to the Otway Fly, we would have to navigate one of the scariest roads I have ever driven.

    I don’t know how we (and our marriage) survived the ordeal of driving Turton’s Track, but I am certainly adding it to list of places we NEVER want to experience again. No wonder the sign said it was unsuitable for trucks, buses, trailers, caravans, cars over 3 m in length, and any drivers who wanted to stay alive. The “road” itself was only one car width wide and consisted of a never ending succession of blind corners. The peril was made even worse by the fact that the oncoming cars were all driven by red necked 4WD enthusiasts with a death wish.

    By some rare aberration on the laws of probability and statistics, we did avoid certain catastrophe and managed to eventually reach the Otway Fly. The experience was interesting but, by that time, Maggie and I were at wits end, and really did not enjoy it as much as we normally would have. I also discovered that my phone had gone completely flat, and I was unable to take any pictures to prove that we had even got there.

    After the treetop walk, we stopped for lunch at Lavers Hill, before completing the final 100 km to Warrnambool. Dinner consisted of takeaway Chinese eaten by Lake Pertobe. It was an enjoyable end to a long day, or it was until the mosquitoes sent us running to the safety of our cars.

    Tomorrow, we ride the trail from Warrnambool to Port Fairy and back again.
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  • Day 3

    Day 3 - The Heinz 57 Trail to Port Fairy

    April 25, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Day Three- The Heinz 57 Trail to Port Fairy
    After our long day in the car yesterday, it was time to get back on the bikes for our ride from Warrnambool to Port Fairy and back again. No one in our group had ridden this trail before, so we had absolutely no idea of what to expect. One thing that we did not expect was warm/hot weather at this time of the year, but that is exactly what we did get.
    After unpacking our bikes and heading off in search of the beginning of the trail, we soon became very aware of a fearsome adversary - a howling head wind ! As if the head wind was not enough of a challenge, we also immediately discovered that the first few km were distinctly uphill. It was the evil combination of hills and head wind that soon had us all wondering why we had driven all the way to Warrnambool to suffer in this way.
    Michael and Christine had made the sensible decision to completely ignore the start of the trail, and drive to meet us at Koroit instead. This not only cut about 20 km from the ride length, but also completely bypassed the hills as well.
    When the rest of the peloton reached Koroit Station, there were several who were already considering stopping there and riding back to Warrnambool. The peloton split into a mens group and a womens group, but I was not sure how many (if any) of us would actually reach Port Fairy.
    Fortunately the trail turned southward and the headwind turned into a not so evil side wind. The going got easier, well sort of. Although we were not battling a direct head wind, the surface of the trail quickly deteriorated into a corrugated, rocky cattle track. For some reason it also appeared that every few hundred metres, the surface changed from one material to another. For brief patches it was smooth, then it would shake you violently, only to turn sandy. And so it went on.
    I lost count of the number of different surfaces we rode on, but I think it must have been at least 57. In spite of the challenges, we did reach Port Fairy without mishap, and were soon settled in front of one of the numerous bakeries. About 15 minutes all of the ladies also arrived.
    By this time it was quite warm in the sunshine, and cold drinks were the order of the day.
    After lunch, the men went on a cycle tour of the Port Fairy fishing wharf and saw the beautiful homes that line the waterfront.
    The return ride turned out to be significantly easier than the outward ride, due to a combination of favourable winds and a welcome succession of downhill sections.
    By the time I reached the waiting cars, my computer was telling me that we had ridden 63 km, although the combination of poor surfaces and challenging winds, made it feel more.
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  • Day 4

    Day 4 - Rest Day in Warrnambool

    April 26, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Day 4 - Free Day

    Today was our designated "free day" for this adventure. I have learnt the great importance of these free days from my experiences both overseas and in Australia. I am starting to think that future trips might just consist of mostly free days, with the occasional cycling day thrown in to keep us honest.

    Today we decided to lash out and have breakfast in one of the cafes in Warrnambool. It was a welcome break from juggling packets of cereal and long life milk in our motel room.

    The women then decided to spend some time doing shopping therapy. I took the opportunity to head down to the waterside to explore the impressive breakwater. Once again, the weather was superb, however the forecast is now threatening that the run of fine and warm days is about to come to a sudden end. Oh well, that is the way it goes.

    We all then headed back to Port Fairy to spend some more time exploring this absolutely beautiful little town. By the time we walked to the lighthouse, it was actually getting unpleasantly hot in the sun. Most of us also noted that our legs were still quite heavy after yesterday's ride.

    Tonight, we will be joined by the members of Group 2 as we share a meal together at the Warrnambool Bowls Club. It will be a good chance to share stories and advice.
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  • Day 5

    Port Campbell to Timboon

    April 27, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Day 5 - Port Campbell to Timboon Trail
    Today we had the chance to ride the Port Campbell to Timboon Trail. Although it had rained most of the previous night, the rain stopped before we got on the bikes and we were able to complete the ride in bright sunshine.
    It is tricky to reach the start of the trail in Port Campbell, because the final section alongside the Great Ocean Road has not been completed yet. Fortunately there is a small car park near the start that had just enough spaces for our convey of cars.
    There is a moderate climb for the first few km, and some sections of the trail were still under construction which added to the degree of difficulty. Timboon is a lovely little town and this trail will be well worth revisiting when the construction is completed.
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  • Day 6

    Day 6 - Timboon to Cobden Rail Trail

    April 28, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Day 6 - Timboon to Cobden Rail Trail
    Our original intention was to ride from Timboon to Cobden, but good intentions don't always result in the desired outcomes. Yesterday we discovered that the trail between Timboon and Cobden is impassable because the trestle bridge has not been built yet. The only way to get past this obstruction is via a 15 km detour along very busy public roads - not a sensible or safe alternative.
    After studying the maps, we decided that we could start at Glenfyne instead and then follow the remaining 11 km of the trail to Cobden. That would make it a very simple and easy ride (or so we thought).
    We arrived at Glenfyne without incident. Actually Gordon and Sue missed Glenfyne entirely and ended up driving all the way to Cobden by mistake. We all had to wait while they drove back to the designated start point. In their defence, we had to admit that Glenfyne is pretty much a complete non-entity. Apart from the quaint little public hall, there is absolutely nothing there.
    So then we started on the trail. We did not have to ride far, before we realized that it was not going to be as easy as we thought. The trail was sadly neglected, so much so that I suspected that we were the first riders to ride this way since the introduction of decimal currency back in 1966.
    Not only was the track overgrown with large weeds (scotch thistles), we also had to contend with long grass, fallen trees, mud and loose stones. We hadn't ridden far before Greg took the easy way out by falling off his bike into the large ditch at the side of the path. Fortunately his fall was softened by the large thistle bushes that welcomed his fall.
    The ride to Cobden might have only been 11 km, but it felt like much more. By the time we arrived, our bodies and our bikes were looking the worse for wear. It didn't take long for us to discover why the trail was in such poor repair. The town itself was little better. Most of the businesses were shut down, and those few that were open looked like they wouldn't be around for much longer.
    We then searched for a bakery for lunch, eventually finding a possible place hidden away in a little arcade. We noticed the place was for sale (like everything else in town). Walking to the counter, I discovered that there was only one pie and one sausage roll left languishing in the pie warmer. David immediately bought the last pie, which cheered the proprietor no end, after all they had been trying to sell it for the past week. The rest of us walked out and looked for another bakery.
    Fortunately we discovered a much nicer place at the other end of town. It was fully stocked with pies and cakes, so we didn't starve after all.
    After lunch we faced the challenge of riding back along the same goat track we had ridden out on. With the benefit of our previous experience, we seemed to all manage a bit better. About an hour later we were safely back at the cars.
    In the evening we met up with 7 riders from Group 2, who had arrived from Warrnambool. We had a lovely outdoor dinner in the beautiful outdoor kitchen. There were lots of shared stories and an abundance of laughs, until we all got cold and retired to our rooms.
    Tomorrow we tackle the Old Beechy Rail Trail, our final ride for this trip. I hope the surface is better than today's track.
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  • Day 7

    Day Seven - Old Beechy Rail Trail

    April 29, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    Day Seven - Colac to Gellibrand on the Old Beechy Trail
    Group 1 has now finished our week of cycling in Western Victoria. Today's challenge was the Old Beechy Trail from Colac to Gellibrand (and back again). With almost 500m of climbing in each direction it was certainly a challenge for man (and woman) and machine. In fact, eight riders started and only four finished !
    The trail surface is generally quite good, although there are a number of very steep climbs and descents, which could easily cause inexperienced riders to have some grief. The highlight is riding through the serenity of the rain forest. We stopped to try to soak up some of the quietness of the moment, however I soon discovered that some riders just can't stop talking.
    Tomorrow we make the long drive back to Melbourne.
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  • Day 8

    Day Eight - It's all Over

    April 30, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    After so much planning and anticipation, it is hard to believe that our lonf awaited Surf Coast Adventure is now all over. Or it is for the members of Group 1. Group 2 will be completing their final ride tomorrow.
    We awoke to a completely clear (and very cold) morning in Colac. After packing the car, we were underway by 7.30 am, and had not driven far before we were reminded of the hazards of early morning driving, especially when you are heading due east. The rising sun was shining straight into my face, making it extremely difficult to see the road ahead. If that wasn't hard enough, my car started warning me of the danger of black ice. The dashboard display told ne that it was 3C outside. Thanks goodness for car heaters.
    Fortunately the traffic was almost non existant and we were able to quickly reach Geelong. That gave us a chance to have a coffee by the waterside, before the rest of the drive back home.
    By 10.30 am we were safely back home and feeding multiple loads of washing into the washing machine. I kept thinking of the riders in Group 2. Although they would be fighting their way through the worst trail of the lot, at least they would have the pleasure of doing it on probably the very best day of the past week.
    Looking back on the past week, I am very pleased that the arrangements pretty well all went according to plan. We had no bike failures, and no flat tyres. Considering some of the tracks we were riding on, that was something of a cycling miracle.
    Considering that all of our riders are now in their 70s, and considering the challenging nature of the rides, I think that everyone can feel rightly proud of their achievements. It was not that long ago that people thought that playing lawn bowls when you were over 60 was a significant challenge. The good news is that we can remain very active well into our 70s and 80s.
    This series of rides was our final chance to test our endurance before we head off in 16 weeks time for our 2023 European rides.
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