Sometimes you have to circle a few times

It seemed like I had just fallen asleep, when the sun rose on Lima. We were up before 7am to get showered, have breakfast and catch a cab to the Jorge Chavez International Airport, where we had arrived just a few short hours ago.

The airport was crowded and chaotic. For every one traveler, there must have eight family members saying goodbye. The lines were long but just getting to them was a challenge. Luckily, we arrived a bit early, as I was informed at the counter that we had the wrong tickets. Apparently, Expedia sold me tickets at the deeply discounted Peruvian national rate. I thought I was getting a screaming deal, when I purchased them. It was an additional $178/person, if we wanted to get to Puno today. Of course, in a hostage situation like this, there's not much one can do, other than fork over the credit card and fantasize about what will be said to the Expedia representative, when I get on the phone back in Colorado.

The flight to Juliaca is supposed to be about 1.75 hours, with an hour bus ride to our destination of Puno. We left Lima late but got to Puno with no difficulties...almost. As the plane dipped its tail for touchdown, the pilot pulled up and sent us into a steep ascent. We leveled off, after a bit, then circled the airport. I considered this a bonus, as we got to fly over the northern shore of Lake Titicaca. There was no announcement, so I figured, we were turning around for a second swipe at the runway. As we circled around, we passed the airport and headed for the lake again. And circled again. There was some turbulence and the banking plane turned tummies, but Kim proudly noted she was not getting sick. Not so for some others on the plane. It was like the barfatorium from that old Saturday Night skit. A couple of flight attendants, hurried their way along the aisle, with multiple barf bags in their hands. Fortunately, the third time, we finally descended and made a proper landing. Although the passengers erupted into cheer, once we were back on the planet, there never was an announcement, as to what the issue was. We were just glad to be safe.

Driving into Puno is an experience. You climb from the plains, over some hills, from where you drop into town. I literally mean drop. There was one road we turned on that made me feel like I needed to hold on, while we went down. It reminded me of the feeling you get on a roller coaster; when you're sitting in the front seat and there's that moment where you see the drop, but the weight of the cars behind you give a momentary pause, then...ahhhhhh! That's how steep this street was.

Upon arriving at the hotel, we poured a cup of coca leaf tea. It is supposed to be good for managing altitude sickness. Puno sits at a respectable 12,556 feet above sea level. I hadn't noticed any issues to that point, but I thought I'd try the tea anyway. I momentarily wondered if I would test positive for cocaine, then concluded that I have worked in corrections way too long. They also had some coca leaves out for sampling. Well, when in Rome. I grabbed a couple of leaves and put them in my mouth. The way the guide book described it, one should let the leaves soften, then tuck them into your cheek and let the magic happen. After a bit, my lips and throat were numbing, but I'm not sure it did anything to help with the altitude.

After getting checked in at the hotel, we were on the hunt for food. It took me just a few blocks before I started to experience the altitude. I immediately slowed down and reminded myself to start drinking more water. And coca tea. By the time we finished dinner and returned to the hotel, Kim was asking for access to the hotel's oxygen tank. They wheeled over a large, green tank, and handed her the clear mask. It reminded me of the morning we awoke in the crater of Kilimanjaro. I walked into the community tent and there was Kim and three other climbers looking dreadful, hooked up to the oxygen. I do have to say, she had a little better color today. I'm sure it's nothing a good night's sleep can't help.Read more