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After Kim's bout with seasickness, to/from Antarctica, she insisted the next trip be wholly terra firma. We decided on Peru, where we'll start in the South, on the shores of Lake Titicaca, before a truncated hike of the Inca Trail into Machu Picchu. Read more
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  • Abuse your passportSee You in Machu Picchu
    Day 1

    Denver, Houston, Panama City, Lima

    October 10, 2015 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    We had great luck with flights today; all of them were on time, and our connections went off without a hitch. That's the good news. There really aren't a lot of things worse than sitting on airplanes for the entirety of a day, but it's always worth the price. By the time we arrived at our hotel in Lima, it was 3am, and we had been sitting, almost constantly, since early the day before. I suspect I'm just a bit shorter than I was, when I left Denver.

    All I wanted to do, when we got to the hotel was sleep. I unzipped my bag to grab my toiletries, and the odor that escaped was dreadful. It smelled like a 14-year old boys' feet! I quickly identified the source of the stench; I had packed my tennis shoes in the bag, while they were still damp. I was shocked at the number of organisms that could grow in a single 20 hour period. There was no saving them, and they went directly into the trash at the Hostal Fresas. Looks like I'll be wearing hiking boots for the next 10 days.    Read more

  • Abuse your passportSee You in Machu Picchu
    Day 2

    Sometimes you have to circle a few times

    October 11, 2015 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    It seemed like I had just fallen asleep, when the sun rose on Lima. We were up before 7am to get showered, have breakfast and catch a cab to the Jorge Chavez International Airport, where we had arrived just a few short hours ago.

    The airport was crowded and chaotic. For every one traveler, there must have eight family members saying goodbye. The lines were long but just getting to them was a challenge. Luckily, we arrived a bit early, as I was informed at the counter that we had the wrong tickets. Apparently, Expedia sold me tickets at the deeply discounted Peruvian national rate. I thought I was getting a screaming deal, when I purchased them. It was an additional $178/person, if we wanted to get to Puno today. Of course, in a hostage situation like this, there's not much one can do, other than fork over the credit card and fantasize about what will be said to the Expedia representative, when I get on the phone back in Colorado.

    The flight to Juliaca is supposed to be about 1.75 hours, with an hour bus ride to our destination of Puno. We left Lima late but got to Puno with no difficulties...almost. As the plane dipped its tail for touchdown, the pilot pulled up and sent us into a steep ascent. We leveled off, after a bit, then circled the airport. I considered this a bonus, as we got to fly over the northern shore of Lake Titicaca. There was no announcement, so I figured, we were turning around for a second swipe at the runway. As we circled around, we passed the airport and headed for the lake again. And circled again. There was some turbulence and the banking plane turned tummies, but Kim proudly noted she was not getting sick. Not so for some others on the plane. It was like the barfatorium from that old Saturday Night skit. A couple of flight attendants, hurried their way along the aisle, with multiple barf bags in their hands. Fortunately, the third time, we finally descended and made a proper landing. Although the passengers erupted into cheer, once we were back on the planet, there never was an announcement, as to what the issue was. We were just glad to be safe.

    Driving into Puno is an experience. You climb from the plains, over some hills, from where you drop into town. I literally mean drop. There was one road we turned on that made me feel like I needed to hold on, while we went down. It reminded me of the feeling you get on a roller coaster; when you're sitting in the front seat and there's that moment where you see the drop, but the weight of the cars behind you give a momentary pause, then...ahhhhhh! That's how steep this street was.

    Upon arriving at the hotel, we poured a cup of coca leaf tea. It is supposed to be good for managing altitude sickness. Puno sits at a respectable 12,556 feet above sea level. I hadn't noticed any issues to that point, but I thought I'd try the tea anyway. I momentarily wondered if I would test positive for cocaine, then concluded that I have worked in corrections way too long. They also had some coca leaves out for sampling. Well, when in Rome. I grabbed a couple of leaves and put them in my mouth. The way the guide book described it, one should let the leaves soften, then tuck them into your cheek and let the magic happen. After a bit, my lips and throat were numbing, but I'm not sure it did anything to help with the altitude.

    After getting checked in at the hotel, we were on the hunt for food. It took me just a few blocks before I started to experience the altitude. I immediately slowed down and reminded myself to start drinking more water. And coca tea. By the time we finished dinner and returned to the hotel, Kim was asking for access to the hotel's oxygen tank. They wheeled over a large, green tank, and handed her the clear mask. It reminded me of the morning we awoke in the crater of Kilimanjaro. I walked into the community tent and there was Kim and three other climbers looking dreadful, hooked up to the oxygen. I do have to say, she had a little better color today. I'm sure it's nothing a good night's sleep can't help.    Read more

  • Abuse your passportSee You in Machu Picchu
    Day 3

    A view of the Lake and mummies

    October 12, 2015 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    We all slept about 12 hours last night. The altitude has made us a little sleepy. We walked down to the shore of Titicaca this morning, shopping along the way. While I was waiting for Kim and Jessica, a local alpaca farmer struck up a conversation with me. When I told him where I was from, he provided me a history of alpacas and llamas, starting with the fact that the animals in South America, actually originated in Colorado and Utah. They slowly moved south, about 10,000 years ago. He also let me know that Colorado has the best alpaca wool in the world, with the exception of a special type that live in France. News to me. Anyway, the people are friendly and all seem to tolerate my awful Spanish. We've enjoyed seeing the local women in their colorful sweaters, loose skirts, and hats.

    We spent the afternoon in the altipanos, high plains, at a location called Sullistani. Three civilizations have buried their royalty there. The earliest use goes back to 1500 BC. The next period started in 600 AD, and then the Inca were the last to utilize the area. You can easily tell the Inca architecture from the earlier groups, due to the precision. Where the earlier people seemed to stack rocks orderly, the Incas cut the rocks, so the stones fit perfectly together. The Incas funerary towers were built in a conical shape, engineering for the known earthquake hazard. Our guide also explained the mummification process, which they used, before lowering the dead into the structures. Interestingly, they were placed in a fetal position, so they would be prepared for their rebirth in the higher worlds.

    Kim and I capped the night at a cafe a few blocks from the hotel. All I can say is that I have just had the most amazing hot chocolate ever. I'm talking hot...chocolate. As in liquid chocolate. It is possible I may experience an insulin coma any time now.    Read more

  • Abuse your passportSee You in Machu Picchu
    Day 4

    A day on Titicaca

    October 13, 2015 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    The first thing the tour guide clarified for us was the pronunciation of the lake. It is not pronounced Titi-caca because caca means poop in Spanish. It is correctly pronounced Titi-c-ha-c-ha, so it sounds like you are clearing your throat when you make the "c" sound. I was glad we cleared that up, so we didn't have to giggle every time he said the name of the lake.

    Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world. Sitting at 12,500, it covers just over 3,200 square miles. It is huge! It's is the second largest lake in South America and spans across two countries.
    Our first stop was the island of Taquile. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is inhabited by a community-oriented group of people. The members take turns serving the community, and the people take equal responsibility for their society. They have no policing, as disputes are resolved in council meetings. They have a traditional dress: the men wear a white shirt, vest, and black pants; and the women wear a red sweater, colored skirt, and black headdress. The marital status of the men can be determined by the type and color of their hats. Apparently, the men do all the sewing. A girl's father makes all her clothes, until she is married, when her husband takes over the duties. We walked around half of the island, from which the views are amazing. In the background, you could see the 20,000+ ft, snowcapped Andes in Bolivia, starkly contrasted against the deep blue color of the lake. I must have taken a hundred photos of the mountains from different elevations on the island.

    We motored from Taquile to another island to have lunch. One of the locals served us a meal, which had been cooked with hot rocks underground. There was way too much food, but as my mother taught me, I tried everything. We had trout from the lake, chicken, mixed veggies, three kinds of potatoes, a local bean, and a cooked banana. I learned that Peru has about 3,000 varieties of potatoes. The meal was completed with a tea, steeped from a local mint plant.

    We ended the tour at one of the reed islands, where the Uros live. The islands are manmade from the reeds that grow in the shallows. History is unclear whether the original Uros were fleeing from the Incas or the Spaniards, but they have been living on the water for centuries. The island we visited had six families living on it. No offense to my friends, but I can't think of six families that I would want to live within earshot 24/7. The island was only about 40X40 feet, so there's nowhere to go. All the buildings are also built from the reeds, so there is no chance for a private conversation. Some of the other islands are so large that they have a school, community building, and numerous houses. Children from the island we visited have to travel by boat to attend school on another island.

    When you step on to the island, it's a little squishy. You don't get wet. The reeds are about three feet deep, but they are porous, so there's some give. The inhabitants gave us an explanation of how the islands are constructed. They actually start with peat moss, on which they crisscross stacks of reeds. Our guide said that they can send someone packing by cutting away a section of peat moss and pushing the black sheep of the family floating away in their sleep. A little cruel, but I have to admit, it sounded like a nice option. The reeds are not only used for construction, but there is a portion of the reed which can be eaten. Apparently, it tastes like celery. The families harvest ducks and fish for subsistence. Any fruits or vegetables must come from the mainland. It is a fascinating way of life, but I can't imagine how uncomfortable it would be with the lake winds blowing, the temperature below 30, and no heat. I don't care how many wool blankets you have.    Read more

  • Abuse your passportSee You in Machu Picchu
    Day 5

    The Andean Express

    October 14, 2015 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    Our day was spent on the train, transiting from Puno to Cusco. The ride was just over 10 hours long and covered about 180 miles. It was no ordinary train. The guide book calls it "plush," and it is operated by the same company as the Orient Express. Upon boarding, my first impression was the Old West. The interior of the car looked right out of a John Wayne movie. We sat in parlor chairs, at a clothed table, with a small lamp, enormous window, and black and white photos on the walls. The interior is all wood. Even the bathroom is impressive. I road Amtrak this summer, from LA to Portland, and the American trains leave a lot to be desired. The bathroom in this train was nicer than the dining car on Amtrak. It was all wood, with a marble countertop, and lots of room. I'm only 5'5", and I could barely fit in the Amtrak bathroom.

    We chugged out of Puno, slowly hugging the northern shore of Titicaca. We circled around the hills and onto the high plains. About two hours later we came into Juliaca. The train tracks dissect their market, so as the train approaches, they pull their wares from the track. Actually, not all of them. Things that will fit under the train are left between the tracks, saving the merchant from moving everything. As we passed, some of their goods were within a few inches of the train. The market was orderly, with different sections that went on for several blocks. There was food (and big batches of coca leaves), power tools, hand tools, books, bikes, tires, kitchen utensils, nuts, bolts, cell phones, and old motherboards. Once we passed, the market spilled back onto the track, and the shopping continued.
    The train provides some activities, so you don't lose your head on the 10 hour trip. Before lunch, we had entertainment from a Puno-based band. They played traditional Peruvian music, and a dancer joined them every few songs. She would change her dress, and the band would play regional music, to which she performed the local dance. Later they offered more music and a fashion show, but we decided to stay seated and enjoy the view.

    Lunch was great. First we started with a quinoa salad that included chopped cukes, onions, and corn. The main course was a quinoa encrusted chicken breast, with a side of the most amazing squash I have ever had. They followed up with a plain cheese cake and cup of coca tea.

    The landscape changes slowly as you move from south to north. In the south, the rural people live in a very dry climate in mud brick homes of about 10x20 feet. Most don't have windows and subsist on farming. Few have sheep and even fewer have cattle. They grow basic crops from small plots sectioned off by rock walls. Things seemed to change once we got over the highest point. As we descended from 13,000+ feet, the air felt more humid, occasional green plants appeared, and the homes became bigger. Within a few hours, there was mechanized farm equipment, commercial irrigation, and nice (relative) homes made of finished, colored stucco. Many of these farms had exceptionally large plots and were certainly growing crops for market. Although we continued to see the ox and hand hoe, this was still an improvement over the south, where they turned the soil by hand with a makeshift shovel. Much of the last hours of the trip, we snaked alongside a wide river, something we hadn't seen in the south.

    The trip was exhausting, even though all we did was sit. Occasionally we exerted ourselves by walking to the last car and taking photos from the open end. All we wanted to do was get some food and hit the rack. We grabbed a cab and went immediately to the tour company, where we had to pay the balance of our tour tomorrow and hike on the Inca Trail. That all seemed to go smoothly, until we had to take a cab to our hotel. The driver couldn't find the hotel, so I offered the address and phone number. He brushed me off and said it was OK. Apparently, men have problems asking for directions in all cultures. After he stopped and asked several people where the hotel was located, he finally accepted my offer to use the phone number I had. Can you imagine, it worked.    Read more

  • Abuse your passportSee You in Machu Picchu
    Day 6

    Touring the Sacred Valley

    October 15, 2015 in Peru ⋅ 🌙 55 °F

    We started the day with a walk down the hill to the tour office. After a short wait, we were led to our coach and met our tour guide, Jose. Our first stop was an unexpected visit to a cooperative, where they raise llamas and alpacas for educational purposes. I did clarify that the oldest camelid fossils were actually found in New Mexico. I also was corrected about the number of potato varieties. Apparently there are 7,126 types of genetically different potatoes in the world and 90% of them originated in Peru.

    Our first stop, once we got to the Sacred Valley, was Pisac. The Inca ruins are very impressive, clinging to the hillside, looking over a mass of terraced farm land. The terraces themselves are impressive, when you learn about them. They are very sophisticated feats of engineering. The Incas took into consideration, drainage, heating, and soil quality. The complex is large and stretches around two hillsides, with residential, military, and religious areas. Unfortunately, our time was limited, so our exploring was kept to a minimum, before we left for Ollantaytambo.

    The ruins at Ollantaytambo are the site of one of the last great stands of the Incas against the Spanish. According to Jose, it was likely that the area was under construction, when the Spanish arrived. This is lucky for us, as we were able to see how they constructed the complex. The precision the Incas used in their stone work is utterly amazing. Rocks were fit so closely together, that there was no need for mortar. Many of the stones, up to six tons in size, were drug by rope from a quarry about six miles away. Little knobs stick out of the large stones, where the ropes were tied on and used for pulling. They laid cobble stones, which were then wetted, to slide the larger stones along the valley to their resting place. From the top of Ollantaytambo, you can see grain storage buildings across the valley and rising up on other hillsides. The valley runs about 18 miles, and it seemed like you could see every foot from this vantage point.

    We returned to Cusco around 6:15 and met with our tour guide for the Inca Trail. Julian gave us the rundown of what to expect the next two days, as we hike into Machu Picchu. We are excited, yet a bit apprehensive. I'm sure it'll be great.    Read more

  • Abuse your passportSee You in Machu Picchu
    Day 7

    Magical

    October 16, 2015 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    We were picked up from our hotel at 5am and transported to Ollantaytambo, where we caught the train toward Machu Picchu. At kilometer 104, the train stopped, and we were dumped onto the side of the tracks with about 30 other people, from other tour companies. This is the trailhead for the one day hike into Machu Picchu. We got on the trail at about 9:30 am, with a destination of Machu Picchu, 10 kilometers away. Although the area is a little over 7,000 feet in elevation, it is a warm rainforest. Luckily, the weather was mild, and we had cloud cover.

    Within the first five minutes we came to some Incan ruins, where we stopped. Julian, our guide, gave us a summary of the trail ahead, as well a short history of this area, which was called Chachabamba. From here, the trail ascended for a few hours. It was not a steep incline, but it was a steady ascent. Before we reached Winay Wayna, it began to rain lightly. It was actually fortunate, because it kept the temperature down and kept the bugs at bay.

    As we approached Winay Wayna, we crossed a wooden bridge over a towering, thin waterfall, seemingly coming from sky. In short time we were in the lower corner of the Inca ruin, Winay Wayna. It has multiple terraces, where the Incas experimented with crops, perfecting their agricultural acumen. There were only a couple of other people on the ruins, at the time, and we felt as though we had the place to ourselves; except for the llama, wondering the steppes below the residential area. As we climbed the stairs, up the terraces, the irrigation water was still running through the aqueducts. The remains of the buildings look as if they were built much more recently than 500 years ago. They stand straight, with little hint of deterioration. As we headed out of the ruins, a bank of fog rolled up the ruins, completely engulfing them. We mentioned how grateful we were to see them, when the fog began to dissipate. The view was mesmerizing, so we lingered there longer than we had planned, taking in the majesty of the site.

    From Winay Wayna, the trail is more forgiving, with some level areas and a loss in elevation. It is the high point on the trial, at about 8,900 feet. It was another two hours before we approached the Sun Gate. There is a steep set of stairs as you approach the final stretch, where you have to use your hands to monkey-climb to the top. Once there, you are nearing the first gate into Machu Picchu, and your first look at it. The Sun Gate was true to its name. By now, the rain had stopped and through the heavy canopy of the jungle, the rays of the sun shone through the gate, as if it were glowing. I turned into the gate, searching for Machu Picchu, but it was not immediately visible. I stepped around a couple of stone walls, and the view opened. Machu Picchu was hazy but visible. It was surreal, and I could not believe I was staring down on this iconic scene. I snapped a bazillion photos before we headed down. With each step, the complex became sharper. The haze subsided by the time we got to the third and final gate. And then, we were there. We were at that very spot where every great picture of Machu Picchu has been taken. The lighting wasn't favorable, but there was a moment when a portion of it was lit in the brilliant sun, and the other part was in the shade. The shadows were evocative, and I can only hope the moment is captured on my memory card.    Read more

  • Abuse your passportSee You in Machu Picchu
    Day 8

    One heck of a view

    October 17, 2015 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Getting to Machu Picchu is a bit of a production in itself. We met Julian at 6am, and the line for the bus was already way, way up the street. There is a continual convoy of buses that climb the steep mountain side, connecting the tourists in Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu. Kim has stopped sitting by the window, due to the view. There are no guard rails, and the drop is straight down the mountainside. The bus ride takes approximately 40 minutes from the pueblo up to the park entry. We arrived at Machu Picchu around 8am, and Julian gave us a two hour tour. He started with a history of the ruins´ discovery, then we started walking. The entrance drops you onto the agricultural terraces, so you have to follow steps upward to see the sights. The terraces were used for agriculture but also for experimentation. Apparently, when excavating some of the area, quite a large number of foreign seeds were discovered, making archeologists believe that the Inca were experimenting to determine what they could and could not grow.

    We viewed the residential areas, then moved on to the temples. The Temple of the Sun is a rounded building with two windows about 20 feet apart. One window aligns perfectly with the sun on the Winter Solstice and the other does the same on the Summer Solstice. Near the temple is a complex system of aqueducts, still carrying fresh water through the area. We walked up a long set of stairs to the Temple of Three Windows and the Main Temple. We were struck by the masonry; the stonework is perfect and still standing after 500 years.

    Leaving the temple area, we walked by the quarry, where they would bring the large pieces of granite and finish the shaping/polishing before installation. There were several enormous pieces of granite still awaiting the masons´ tools. Rising from the quarry are the steps to the observatory. The building looks like a Mayan pyramid and at the top, in the center, is a stone sun dial. Unfortunately it was cloudy, so we weren´t able to experience it; however, we learned it was more important for them to tell the date (for agricultural purposes) than it was for them to know the time of day. The other side of the observatory drops you into the main plaza, which was a large, grassy area, where I imagined a bustling community. At the far end of the plaza were a couple of buildings, between which sat the Sacred Rock. Julian told us that the Incas were so busy that they could not get to the top of mountains to make offerings, so they would find a giant rock that looked like a sacred mountain and make offerings there. In this case, the Sacred Rock not only looked like the sacred mountain in the distance but resembled a guinea pig.

    Julian took us through a few other sites before leaving us on our own. Kim and I had to get back to the other side of the park, as we had 10 am tickets to climb Wayna Picchu Mountain. This is the giant mountain that looks down on Machu Picchu. We decided we were willing to give it a try and would be agreeable to quitting, if necessary. I had seen some harrowing pictures on Google images. The trail is mostly steps, up a steep mountain, sometimes only a foot wide, hanging a thousand feet up a sheer cliff. The park allows only 400 visitors per day, so we felt lucky to have a ticket. It had started to rain, and we began the hike in a downpour. The rain lifted in about 30 minutes, and we scrambled our way to the top. Just before the peak, you have to crawl through a cave that takes you to the back side of the mountain. From there, it is a steep set of stairs up to the peak. The views of Machu Picchu, from the top, were amazing. We rounded the front of the mountain, where there were additional ruins of a building and some farming terraces. The stairs coming down along the ruins were steep and narrow. Enough so that the three girls in front of us had to sit down and take them one at a time. It slowed us down a bit, but we got back down in time to enjoy the park for a few more hours before calling it a day.    Read more

  • Abuse your passportSee You in Machu Picchu
    Day 9

    The original stairmaster

    October 18, 2015 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Kim and I arrived in Machu Picchu around 7am and walked the stairs of the terraces up to the trailhead of the Machu Picchu Mountain hike. Our legs were slightly sore from the vertical ascent on Wayna Picchu yesterday, so we were fully prepared to turnaround without reaching the top. We had read that the hike is a steady ascent, at about a 35 degree angle, with an elevation gain just over 2100 feet, and an average completion time of four hours. That's a long time of going up. And don't forget, Kim was flat on her back for the entire month of July with a respiratory virus and has only recently been feeling better (still not 100%).

    We signed in at the checkpoint at 7:15. There were just a few people ahead of us and a couple behind. Our starting elevation was 7,868 feet, and we were headed to 10,007. Almost immediately, we began climbing rock stairs. I had been preparing for this moment with months of walking the stairs to the 11th floor in my work building. Unfortunately, we climbed 11 floors' worth of stairs in the first few minutes. Few hikers passed us on the trail, and slowly, some of the ones in front of us started to turn back. Although the elevation is around 9000, it is a cloud forest, which means heat and humidity. Luckily the weather wasn't bad, with a temperature in the low 70's and some cloud cover; but, with the exertion, we were definitely breaking a sweat.

    The trail winds its way through the jungle, and after an hour of climbing stairs, we were barely halfway there. We didn't talk much but just kept putting one foot on the next rock, over and over again. We took frequent breaks to view the increasingly, smaller Machu Picchu below us. Soon we were level with the peak of Wayna Picchu, which seemed like a long way to go yesterday. As we got closer to the top, the stairs began to narrow in some places, and the edge of them dropped off the cliff. For the most part, the path had been exceptionally wide, but when you needed the most space, there wasn't any. Finally, two young women were headed down. We asked how far to the top, but they had turned around short of the peak. Apparently there is one last set of stairs that is particularly steep, narrow, and set out on the rock face. One of them couldn't stomach it, so they had turned around less than 30 minutes ago. We were exhausted and our legs were burning, but Kim and I agreed that we could do another 30 minutes.

    The 30 minutes was actually a long estimate, and we summited sooner than that. There were about 20 people at the top, enjoying the view. From the peak, we had an amazing view of Machu Picchu and Wayna Picchu, with the Urubamba River splitting the valley far, far below. We could see where we had walked in on the Inca Trail, with Winay Wanya behind us. We rested for a several minutes, making sure we were hydrated and energized for the walk back down. As we started, it occurred to me that I probably should have walked down the stairs at work, too. That works a whole different set of muscles, apparently. In little time, we were at the top of the narrow stairs, which had been enough to turn away the young women we'd earlier met. Here we found a trembling young man, who had been proud and boisterous at the top. Now he had to go down the stairs. He was sitting down, hugging the mountainside, crying to his girlfriend. She was trying to get him to sit on his bum and go down the stairs like a small child, but he would not hear of it. I asked to pass and purposively bounded down the stairs. At the rate he was going, he should be down the mountain sometime next week.

    The walk down grew more painful with each step. We were on our third day of hiking and the second day of steps, so my muscles were getting slightly perturbed. We brought great joy to the hikers that were on their way up, when we gave them an approximation of the time to summit. It was fun to see the relief in their faces. We stopped frequently to take photos and rest our weary bodies, but it didn't slow us down. We got back to the gate after a total of 3.5 hours on the trail, 30 minutes under the average. Not bad for a couple of middle-aged women! Or, so it was pointed out to us. On the way down, we met a young couple from Indiana. Kim was speaking to the guy, who said, "You all are brave," in response to Kim confirming that we had been to the top. When she noted that they were brave because they were doing it as well, he said, "Yea, but we're young." I'm so glad I don't take 50 too seriously.

    We got off the trail in time to spend another hour in Machu Picchu. We got to see llamas grazing on the terraces and checked out some of the agricultural zone that we missed yesterday. We meandered down to the entrance, where we stepped out and had lunch. As we ate, we watched the line for the busses growing, so we finished quickly and headed to the queue. It was an hour before we were on the bus back to Aguas Calientes. Once there, we met up with Jessica, got our bags, and walked to the train station.

    I'm sure the train usually works just fine, but not for us. We were into our second hour on the train and moving out of Ollantaytambo, when the engineer hit the brakes. Everything on our table slid to the opposite side, and the train came to a stop. We waited to start up again, but nothing seemed to be happening. Finally our steward came by and said, "The machine is broken, and we are waiting." We clarified that machine actually meant engine. So, we sat on the tracks for about 45 minutes, before an engine came and towed us back to Ollantaytambo. From there, we surmised that they replaced our engine, and we were able to get moving again after an hour delay. We ended up being late getting in, but we arrived at our hotel around 9:30. We scrambled to get everything packed up; tomorrow we leave at 7am for Lima.    Read more

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