To the DMZ and Back, Jimmy Carter not in

Jay and I were out the door by 7:30am to catch the DMZ tour. As soon as we got outside, the sky opened and rain gushed from above. Our pants were soaked up to the knees by the time we walked the few blocks to the tour rendezvous point. Luckily, that was the worst of it for the day, but it rained/poured on and off all day.

Our tour started with an hour drive up to the DMZ. I was concerned about going to the DMZ with Jay, after he got reprimanded for breaking the rules on the bus. (I just kept telling myself, "Your sister will kill you, if you get in trouble.") Much of the drive has the Han River to the left of the road. Once we got out of Seoul, I noticed there was a huge fence with razor wire running parallel to the river. I figured that must be the border, having forgotten that the two Koreas are still technically at war. The tour guide indicated that the security was there to detect or prevent the North Koreans from mounting an attack via the river, which runs from the north. "Good idea," I thought to myself, as I imagined a N. Korean flotilla gunning its way down the water.

The Demilitarized Zone is two kilometers on either side of the 38th parallel. The Civilian Control Area is the next two kilometers, but you really can't walk around there because there are still active landmines. We started the tour with a check of our passports by the Korean military before we were allowed into the area. The bus then took us over a bridge with strategically placed barriers, which I suppose are used to slow down maniacal tank driving N. Koreans, should they bust through the 38th parallel. We then proceeded to the Dorasan Train Station, which was built just a few years ago, in anticipation of reunification. It is kinda creepy, because it is the last train station in S. Korea and was built specifically to cross into N. Korea, although it is not yet possible. It is basically empty, as is the Customs and Immigration building. All the facilities are just waiting for some day in the future. The S. Korean tour guide’s attitude was intriguing. She explained that the South wants to reunite, and it is sad that the North does not. She talked in words of peace and hope, with no animosity toward the North. It seemed very generous and forgiving, given the devastation caused by the North and the Soviets during the war. Anyway, the train station and the surrounding structures are just waiting and ready to fire up, if called to duty. Should this train station open and one could use the rails through North Korea, it would be possible to travel from S. Korea all the way to Europe via train. Now, that’s a ticket I would buy!

We then travelled to the third tunnel discovered by the S. Koreans in 1978, which the North had dug under the DMZ into the South’s territory. The tour allows you to walk the length of the tunnel almost to the area underneath the 38th parallel. The North allegedly dug the tunnel, as well as the other three that have been discovered, to exact a surprise attack on their enemy in the south. One of my favorite bits of information posted along the tunnel was an explanation of why some of the solid granite walls were blackened. Apparently the North, in retreat upon discovery, smeared coal on the walls. When asked what they were doing building the tunnel they had a plausible excuse: “We’re just diggin’ for coal!” OK, so I didn’t go to the School of Mines, but I’m thinking that solid granite is probably not where one should be digging for coal. But what do I know?

We also visited the observation area, where we could look into North Korea. It was interesting to note the deforestation on the North side. The South’s side is well forested, whereas the North has used its wood for fuel, and there were few trees to be seen on their side. I should note, at this point, I completely ignored Jay’s dare to make a run for the North; however, I did throw Kim Jong-il a dirty look.

One of the unintended consequences of the DMZ has been the restoration of the 4km wide natural area. It has become its own wildlife preserve, where animals find undisturbed vegetation and no interference from mankind. The flora and fauna are abundant and healthy. I didn’t ask, but I guess the little animals aren’t big enough to set off the old landmines.

Following the tour, we went back to the apartment to join Imy, Jay’s wife, and get some food. We ate at a Vietnamese pho shop and had some great food. I was then schooled on the Seoul subway system on our way home.

Not quite a full day, but it was all I could handle on the first day in a seriously different time zone. Tomorrow we’ll be exploring the city and meeting Jay’s friends in the evening.Read more